2010 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

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Always an early harvester, Boillot began picking his 2011 pinot noir on August 27 and his chardonnay on the 31st.He lightly chaptalized most of the chardonnays.Boillot was still stirring the lees about every ten days at the time of my late May visit, and the wines were cloudy from a recent stirring just four days earlier.The malos had been finished for about two months, and Boillot planned to bottle in August, as he normally does.Incidentally, Boillot told me that he had tasted a lot of 2010s in London in January at a big trade tasting and thought that too many wines were from fruit that was picked too late.

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This is an impressive set of wines from Jean-Marc Boillot. The 2010s are very clearly marked by their terroirs, a departure from vintages such as 2009 and 2011, where the wines are less vivid. Boillot began harvesting on September 19th. Natural alcohols came in around 12.8%-13.2%, pretty much the same as in 2011.

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Boillot started harvesting in 2010 on September 15, as he was happy with the combination of high-quality fruit and sound but reasonable potential alcohol levels. "The finished wines will be between 12.6% and 13.2% without chaptalization," he said, "just like I like it." Boillot compares the 2010s to the 2008s in their "mineral tension," which he says gives them vibrancy and extends their finishes. Boillot does a severe debourbage at cool temperature for 24 hours, then filters the bourbes and adds them back to the wine. He stirred the lees of the 2010s every ten days until the malolactic fermentations, which had finished at least two months prior to my visit at the end of May. Incidentally, Boillot told me that 2010 was his 40th vintage, and that it may be his best year yet for red wines. More on that subject next winter. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

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