2006 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

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Jean-Marc Boillot was a very early harvester in 2007, starting with pinot noir on August 20 and bringing in his chardonnay between August 28 and September 2. "If we had waited we would have gotten slightly higher sugars and slightly lower acidity," he explained, "but rather overripe grapes, with less pure and more advanced chardonnay aromas." Potential alcohol levels were typically a moderate 12% to 12.2%, and the wines will be bottled between 12.8% and 13%. "It's not a year for a long elevage," noted Boillot, who did a lot of lees stirring to enrich the wines. "The wines began with less power than the '04s," he went on. "They started out meager but they've been taking on volume in barrel." All the wines had finished their malos and had been sulfited when I tasted them at the end of May. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; also a Becky Wasserman selection; numerous importers) Also recommended: Chassagne-Montrachet (85).

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Jean-Marc Boillot started harvesting his chardonnay on the day of the ban and finished in three days before moving on to his pinot noir. "Those who harvested early with ripe sugars did very well," he said. "But after Wednesday [September 20], the rot started to affect the ripe grapes that remained on the vines." Boillot pressed quickly and then did a long, colder-than-usual debourbage. The alcoholic fermentations were protracted but his wines all finished with less than two grams per liter of residual sugar. According to Boillot, a bit of noble rot gives the 2006s a wider range of aromas. He believes they need an early bottling, as a long elevage would risk tiring the wines.

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