2004 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
France
Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Boillot describes his young 2004s as "a cross between 2000 and 2001, combining the minerally terroir character of 2000 with the slightly exotic lemon and grapefruit flavors of 2001, which give grip to the rounder lactic wines." Interestingly, Boillot feels that the new oak is giving more precision to the 2004s while the same element has accentuated the grilled aspect of many 2003s. He was not too concerned about the very full crop levels of 2004. "In chardonnay we'd need a lot of juice to have an imbalance," he told me, "but in vintages with tiny crops, the wines are almost always out of balance." In Champs-Canet and Truffiere, Boillot added, he made less than the maximum yields. Stirring the lees a lot was the key to getting fat, volume and a wider range of aromas in the 2004s, he added. Boillot's 2003s have turned out very well. "They can already be drunk with pleasure," he noted, "but there will be some pleasant surprises with bottle aging at the top of the range."
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