2010 Echézeaux Grand Cru
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I was blown away by the wines I tasted with Etienne Grivot on what turned out to be one of the most thrilling visits of my fall trip. Readers should do whatever they can to latch onto a few bottles of these exquisite Burgundies. Grivot talked about a roller coaster vintage which was saved by 3-4 days of good weather. The estate lost fruit from 3,000 plants and yields were down 40% across the board because of the poor weather during the flowering. The most dramatic proof of the loss in production was seeing some of rooms in the cellar with far fewer barrels than is the norm. The domaine's 2009s are equally exciting. I will have notes on those wines in my April article.
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Etienne Grivot made 86,000 bottles of wine in 2009 but just 45,000 in 2010, due to the combined effects of the December '09 frost and the difficult flowering. But quality is high. Grivot started harvesting on September 23 and eliminated between 4% and 8% of his grapes due to rot, ultimately chaptalizing his various cuvees between 0.5% and 0.9%. This is clearly the style of vintage that plays into Grivot's hands. For his part, he loves the tension and purity of the wines, and their precision of aromatics, not to mention their silky, complex tannins. I may be slightly underrating some of these extremely promising wines, as they were lightly sulfited a couple weeks before my visit and were still a bit introverted, if not reduced.
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