2005 Echézeaux Grand Cru
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Etienne Grivot is a big fan of 2005. "Two thousand two was the first time I dared to say that a vintage was ideal, especially in its harmony and finesse," he told me, "but 2005 is a more voluptuous version of 2002, more impressive in its volume. It's the prototype of a great vin de garde in terms of its acid and tannin character." He went on to compare 2005 to 1985, which he called "another great vintage," but he pointed out that the quality of his work is much better now. "We do a green harvest to reduce yields, we have a sorting table to eliminate less-good fruit, we now use better barrels, and we don't filter." In 2005, according to Grivot, the pHs are in the low 3.3 range, and the level of volatile acidity is also unusually low, which explains why he has not sulfited the wines up to now. The objective of the elevage, he told me, has been to give the wines more charm without compromising their freshness and precision.
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