1999 Montrachet Grand Cru
$1,000 (2013)
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay (2017 vintage)
00
1999
2019 - 2040
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Strangers ask me if it’s true: Did I really celebrate my big four-zero at The Ledbury when, at my behest, celebrated chef Brett Graham summoned all his astounding culinary skills to pimp up the KFC menu?
00
2017
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I had not been to this fabled domain in a number of years when I stopped by on a muggy night in early June. Since my last visit, Noël Ramonet, who was then in charge of winemaking, has gone into semi-retirement, and his brother Jean-Claude, who previously was responsible for the vineyards, has taken over the family operation, which is now simply called Jean-Claude Ramonet, as Jean-Claude supplements his vines by buying fruit from his brother's share of the vineyards.
The Ramonet wines have for years impressed with their combination of depth and precision, and their longevity, but Jean-Claude nonetheless described his young 2017s as “easy to drink” (I found them a bit more serious than that.) “There was a blockage of maturity until the rains came at the end of August,” he told me one evening at the beginning of June, with a black sky threatening downpours and hail. “The rain brought more ripeness and lowered the grapes’ previously high acidity,” said Ramonet, who started harvesting on September 4. In this cold, humid cellar, the malolactic fermentations typically take place late, so Ramonet showed me an edited group of ‘17s that had finished. Ramonet is normally a late bottler, at least for his top cuvées, and he did not plan to rack his ‘17s until December. (By the way, I tasted a full range of the Ramonet ‘16s, which will be included in my upcoming article on that vintage.)
00
2016
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Veteran Jean-Claude Ramonet makes no claims for greatness for either the 2016 or 2017 white Burgundies, so I feel a bit out on a limb by rating his wines higher than he apparently does. Ramonet considers 2016 to be a fragile vintage, "especially for the frosted vineyards," and will bottle his wines with a full 35 parts per million of sulfur. Perhaps more important, he feels that the frosted 2016s "lack something." I enjoyed the '16s for their energy but I do wonder if some of them will expand and gain in pliancy and complexity in bottle like the best vintages at this address. And, as in some other cellars, especially in Chassagne-Montrachet, a few of these wines finish with a faint bitterness that may reflect the influence of some less-ripe second-generation grapes. But the best '16s here are standouts, and they appear destined for a slow and positive evolution in the cellar.
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2013
2028 - 2065
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2013
2019 - 2029
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00
1999
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This wine was tasted during the La Paulee Gala Dinner in New York City, 2009.
00
1998
2018 - 2035
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1995
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1995
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1993
2018 - 2030
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00
1992
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This wine was tasted at the Gala Dinner at the World Wine Symposium, Villa d'Este, Italy.
00
1986
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This wine was tasted backstage at La Paulée.
00
1983
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Marea in early 2014.
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