2005 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Damodes 1er Cru
$180 (2014)
France
Nuits Saint Georges
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2015 vintage)
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2005
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Gilles Jayer told me he started harvesting a week later than most of his neighbors in 2005 and that the yeasts worked quickly. He regards 2005 as a great vintage. A couple of the wines were quite stern in the style of the year, and those that were easier to taste may well close down following the bottling. These wines are often difficult to taste 14 months after the harvest because the malos here are generally late, and the wines remain on their lees until they are assembled and racked for the bottling. Incidentally, although Jayer called 2004 a "classic" vintage last year, in November he described it as "one of my most difficult vintages to make." He told me he prefers the 2001s, which he considers richer in material and better-balanced, with more phenolic maturity. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.) Also recommended: Hautes Cotes de Beaune (86).
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2015
2026 - 2036
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Swiss pharmaceutical magnate André Hoffman purchased this estate last June, with the idea that Gilles Jayer, who started working with his father Robert in 1982, would continue to run the estate until he was ready to retire. But those plans were quickly dashed, as Gilles fell ill with liver cancer (he had recently beaten colon cancer); he passed away just three days after my January visit.
New winemaker Alexandre Vernet, who previously spent 12 years at Domaine Germain, told me he planned to carry out somewhat less reductive winemaking and to cut back on the percentage of new oak (Gilles and his father before him were long known for their use of 100% new barrels, even for their basic red wine bottlings). He may also introduce some whole-cluster vinification here. Vernet explained that he’s looking for fruit, length and power.
00
2015
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Gilles Jayer compared the tiny, concentrated 2015 crop to that of 2005, noting that he didn’t have dry tannins in 2005 either but that the earlier vintage has nevertheless been slow to evolve. He began harvesting on September 7, with grape sugars at 13 degrees or higher and did what he described as “very light, soft punchdowns.” The malos were even later than usual here, and a few of the wines were still working when I tasted them in December; my notes should thus be taken as provisional in nature. Jayer planned to bottle his ‘15s very late as a result.
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2014
2023 - 2033
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Gilles Jayer, a man of few words when it comes to describing his vintages, noted that the 2014s are for drinking earlier than the ‘15s Still, I found them juicy but distinctly tight in December, and in need of patience Jayer bottled them without fining or filtration in April of 2016
00
2014
2023 - 2033
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Gilles Jayer, a man of few words when it comes to describing his vintages, noted that the 2014s are for drinking earlier than the ‘15s. Still, I found them juicy but distinctly tight in December, and in need of patience. Jayer bottled them without fining or filtration in April of 2016.
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2014
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Gilles Jayer picked late in 2014, beginning on September 23 in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Echézeaux. Potential alcohol levels were in the range of 12% and Jayer chaptalized moderately. Interestingly, grape sugars were higher here in 2013, and Jayer believes that the early set of wines is more serious and ageworthy."But the 2014s are supple wines with lovely fruit and silky tannins," he said."They'll be good young or old and probably great 10 or 12 years from now."
The malolactic fermentations finished in August and the wines were still on their lees, unracked, in early December. Jayer will assemble his 2014s in tanks just a few days prior to bottling them in March and April. All of these reds are aged in 100% new barriques.
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2013
2021 - 2032
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While Gilles Jayer believes that the suppler, fruitier 2014s will be good young or old, "the 2013s are serious wines that need aging." He harvested beginning on October 2 with grape sugars between 13% and 13.5%, or roughly a full degree higher than in 2014, and did no chaptalization.
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2013
2018 - 2033
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This small domaine tucked a bit out of the way in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits remains one of Burgundy's best kept secrets. Gilles Jayer crafts meticulous, sleek Burgundies loaded with personality. In particular, the entry-level wines are impeccable here. Then again, Jayer lavishes the same care on those wines he reserves for his top bottlings, including 100% new oak for all the wines. The Jayer Burgundies are sleek and racy, but these days the oak is not especially noticeable. Instead, the wine stand out for their impeccable overall balance. In 2013, Jayer began bringing in his fruit beginning on October 9, very late even for the year. The wines I tasted from barrel point to another brilliant vintage.
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2012
2018 - 2032
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Gilles Jayer's 2012 are impressive for their purity of fruit. The 2012s saw a total of 15 days on the skins. Incredibly, the wines were still finishing their malos when I stopped by in early December 2013, the longest malos I have personally seen in the 2012 vintage. The 2012s were aging in 100% new oak and had never been racked when I tasted them. Reviewing wines from barrel is by nature an approximation, but in this case, readers should take into consideration that the wines were still embryonic when I saw them. Still, I was struck by the sheer promise in these wines.
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2011
2014 - 2026
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Gilles Jayer brought in his 2011s from September 7 to 14, which was late for the year. Quite unusually, the malos did not finish until the following September. As is the custom here, all of the wines were aged in 100% new oak. Jayer remains one of the most under-the-radar growers in Burgundy. The two Bourgognes are among the best wines readers will find in their respective price ranges, while at the other end of the spectrum, the Echezeaux is super-pedigreed.
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2010
2016 - 2030
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Gilles Jayer's 2010s are stellar. The harvest stretched into October, late even by the standards of the year. All of the wines were aged in 100% new oak and had not been racked at the time of my tastings. I will report on the 2009s in my April article.
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2009
2014 - 2029
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2009
2014 - 2029
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This is a strong set of wines from Gilles Jayer. In 2009 the harvest took place from the 16th to the 24th of September. After vinification Jayer leaves the wines in oak with no racking until the wines are assembled prior to bottling. Jayer uses 100% new oak for all his wines. With the occasional exception of some of the entry-level offerings, the wines handle their new oak admirably well. I also had a chance to taste The 2008s. Aside from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune – which was too reduced to evaluate – The 2008s showed very well.
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2009
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Gilles Jayer describes 2009 as "a very good vintage, with good balance for aging. But the wines will also taste good early." He told me that acidity levels were similar to those of 2003, but that pHs were in the reasonable 3.5 range. Jayer normally begins harvesting on the late side (September 16 in 2009) since his vines in the Hautes Cotes ripen late and he doesn't want his pickers sitting on their hands for a week or more in the middle of the harvesting period. Jayer noted that yields were just 33 or 34 hectoliters per hectare in 2009. He always destems his fruit "because we don't need stems with all that new oak." He racks only for the assemblage and holds his wines in tank for just two days before bottling them. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2008
2018 - 2028
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This is a strong set of wines from Gilles Jayer. In 2009 the harvest took place from the 16th to the 24th of September. After vinification Jayer leaves the wines in oak with no racking until the wines are assembled prior to bottling. Jayer uses 100% new oak for all his wines. With the occasional exception of some of the entry-level offerings, the wines handle their new oak admirably well. I also had a chance to taste The 2008s. Aside from the Hautes Côtes de Beaune – which was too reduced to evaluate – The 2008s showed very well.
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2008
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2007
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2007
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Gilles Jayer describes 2007 as a year that yielded pretty fruit and good material. "The tannins are serious but well-buffered, and the wines are wonderfully clean and balanced," he told me, "but some of my neighbors started harvesting too early, before their grapes were ripe." In comparison, the 2006s here are cooler, tighter and more obviously structured wines, with a couple of noteworthy exceptions. I skipped my visit last year because the malos had barely begun (14 months after the harvest); they eventually finished in March of 2008. In this very cold cellar, the wines evolve quite slowly, and volatile acidity levels are normally in the very low 0.35 to 0.4 range, according to Jayer. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2006
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Gilles Jayer describes 2007 as a year that yielded pretty fruit and good material. "The tannins are serious but well-buffered, and the wines are wonderfully clean and balanced," he told me, "but some of my neighbors started harvesting too early, before their grapes were ripe." In comparison, the 2006s here are cooler, tighter and more obviously structured wines, with a couple of noteworthy exceptions. I skipped my visit last year because the malos had barely begun (14 months after the harvest); they eventually finished in March of 2008. In this very cold cellar, the wines evolve quite slowly, and volatile acidity levels are normally in the very low 0.35 to 0.4 range, according to Jayer. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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2004
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Gilles Jayer told me he started harvesting a week later than most of his neighbors in 2005 and that the yeasts worked quickly. He regards 2005 as a great vintage. A couple of the wines were quite stern in the style of the year, and those that were easier to taste may well close down following the bottling. These wines are often difficult to taste 14 months after the harvest because the malos here are generally late, and the wines remain on their lees until they are assembled and racked for the bottling. Incidentally, although Jayer called 2004 a "classic" vintage last year, in November he described it as "one of my most difficult vintages to make." He told me he prefers the 2001s, which he considers richer in material and better-balanced, with more phenolic maturity. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.) Also recommended: Hautes Cotes de Beaune (86).
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2004
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Gilles Jayer considers 2004 to be a classic vintage, "between 2000 and 2001 in character. "The Hautes Cotes de Beaune had just been sulfited a couple of days before my visit, but the rest of the 2004s had been treated in September. Jayer was among the latest pickers in 2003, and his top wines from this vintage are stunning. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )
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2003
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Gilles Jayer considers 2004 to be a classic vintage, "between 2000 and 2001 in character. "The Hautes Cotes de Beaune had just been sulfited a couple of days before my visit, but the rest of the 2004s had been treated in September. Jayer was among the latest pickers in 2003, and his top wines from this vintage are stunning. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D. C. )
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2003
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Gilles Jayer did two pigeages per day in 2003 but no pumpovers because, he explains, remontage brings oxygen to the must and would have speeded up the fermentations.The pHs here are quite healthy in the context of the year, and the wines do not lack for freshness-despite the fact that Jayer did not start harvesting until September 3.The malolactic fermentations, which are normally late here, only finished in October of 2004, which has also helped preserve vibrancy.(Some of the 2002 malos lingered until November or December of 2003, and these wines were bottled in April of 2004.)(Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
2001
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Gilles Jayer harvested late in 2001, beginning on September 26. The fruit, he told me, offered more acidity, thicker skins and more material, if a tad less potential alcohol, than that of the previous year. The finished 2000s here also showed very well in November. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
2000
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Gilles Jayer harvested late in 2001, beginning on September 26. The fruit, he told me, offered more acidity, thicker skins and more material, if a tad less potential alcohol, than that of the previous year. The finished 2000s here also showed very well in November. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
2000
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Gilles Jayer describes his 2000s as "more vins du plaisir than vins de garde " The fruit actually came in with a bit more sugar than in 1999; acidity levels were low, but pHs were still healthy without any acid additions. Jayer did a week-long pre-fermentation cold soak in 2000, and as much as ten days of cold maceration in 1999. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1999
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
00
1999
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Gilles Jayer describes his 2000s as "more vins du plaisir than vins de garde " The fruit actually came in with a bit more sugar than in 1999; acidity levels were low, but pHs were still healthy without any acid additions. Jayer did a week-long pre-fermentation cold soak in 2000, and as much as ten days of cold maceration in 1999. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1999
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Gilles Jayer describes 1999 as "a big crop, like '96." He concentrated the musts by bleeding off 15% of the juice in most of his cuvees The malolactic fermentations were later than usual (the unracked wines were quite leesy in November), and so Jayer plans to bottle in February, about a month later than his normal practice. The '98s were actually bottled even later, in March, for the same reason. I preferred the riper, fleshier '99s on my recent visit, but I have the nagging suspicion that I am underrating this estate '98s. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1998
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Gilles Jayer describes 1999 as "a big crop, like '96." He concentrated the musts by bleeding off 15% of the juice in most of his cuvees The malolactic fermentations were later than usual (the unracked wines were quite leesy in November), and so Jayer plans to bottle in February, about a month later than his normal practice. The '98s were actually bottled even later, in March, for the same reason. I preferred the riper, fleshier '99s on my recent visit, but I have the nagging suspicion that I am underrating this estate '98s. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1998
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There was no frost in '98, but there weren't a lot of grapes either, reported Gilles Jayer, adding that yields were roughly the same as those of 1997 (see Issue 83 for notes on the finished '97s). Grape sugars were in the 12% to 12.5% range, and the wines were chaptalized to around 13%. "Wine done in new barrels must really be 13% alcohol in order to support the wood," Gilles explained. No green harvest is carried out here, nor is Jayer a proponent of leaf-pulling, but he did cut off the verjus (unripe grapes) in August and eliminated some "cooked" grapes on a table de trie. The wines will remain on their lees until just before the bottling, which was slated for January. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1997
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The malos finished relatively early, Gilles Jayer told me, but the wines were left on their lees until the January bottling. Now they are finally taking on more color, reports Jayer. The '97s will make ideal restaurant wines, he opines, while the '96s will be good to drink relatively young and will age well. The '96 Echezeaux is a knockout. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1996
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The malos finished relatively early, Gilles Jayer told me, but the wines were left on their lees until the January bottling. Now they are finally taking on more color, reports Jayer. The '97s will make ideal restaurant wines, he opines, while the '96s will be good to drink relatively young and will age well. The '96 Echezeaux is a knockout. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1996
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Jayer '96s offer brilliant potential: sugars averaged a half-degree higher than those of '95, but pHs in a number of instances were even lower. Jayer compared the vintage to 1988, but pointed out that the tannins of '96 are suppler than those of the earlier year as he now destems most of his fruit. A couple of these wines were still at the tail end of their malos in November. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
00
1995
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Jayer '96s offer brilliant potential: sugars averaged a half-degree higher than those of '95, but pHs in a number of instances were even lower. Jayer compared the vintage to 1988, but pointed out that the tannins of '96 are suppler than those of the earlier year as he now destems most of his fruit. A couple of these wines were still at the tail end of their malos in November. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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