2017 Volnay Santenots 1er Cru
$169 (2016)
France
Volnay
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2020 vintage)
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2017
2019 - 2026
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Since proprietor Edouard Labruyére was away during my visit – unsurprising given that he concurrently runs estates in Pomerol, Moulin-à-Vent and most recently in Champagne – I tasted the reds with head winemaker Nadine Gublin. “For the reds, we started the picking on September 6 in the Volnay Santenots and finished on September 12,” she explained as we embarked on their comprehensive portfolio. “I think it is more a vintage for the whites,” she opined, though that said, the domaine’s reds are not shabby at all. Gublin is probably correct in that I have tasted better vintages of their reds in the past; however, the winemaking is far better than it was 10 or 20 years ago, when some subpar wines rather sullied the name. These days, there is much more consistency, and their use of whole bunches is discreet and assiduous. Perhaps this is a vintage where their enviable array of Grand Crus do not place so much distance between themselves and the Premier Crus. Head for their Beaune Clos de la Féguine or Champs Pimonts for what should be good value, and also the Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru sourced from younger vines in Chambertin.
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2020
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2018
2022 - 2038
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"It was an early season," head winemaker Nadine Gublin told me, once I have navigated my way through the thick fog and omnipresent roadworks surrounding their winery in Meursault. "We did a green harvest for the Chardonnay - the first time - in order to control the yield. We began to pick on 29 August and finished on 12-13 September. We commenced with the Chardonnay and then the Pinot Noir. It was sunny, dry but the big surprise was that despite there being no rain, the vintage was generous for Chardonnay. Pinot Noir was approximately the same as in 2017 and perhaps the variety is more sensitive to conditions than Chardonnay. Vinification was simple due to the healthiness of the grapes, the good level of sugar and the good tartaric levels. This was very important. The hot weather burned the malic acid at the end of August so the tartaric was crucial. The malolactic was done by May/June 2019 after which the alcohol was between 13.5% and 13.8% and the levels of total acidity around 3.80gm/L, pH 3.40-3.50. We will begin the bottling the reds in February up until July 2020."
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2016
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Winemaker Nadine Gublin described 2015 as “a very classic vintage of fresh wines from a late harvest, more red fruits than black in character.” The estate started its harvest with Pinot Noir on September 20, with grape sugars between 11.5% and 12.5%, and Gublin chaptalized lightly “for the texture of the wines” (they will be bottled with alcohol levels between 12.5% and 12.8%). Yields ranged widely according to the effects of frost, with estate-wide production down about 50% from a normal year. Gublin carried out less extraction than usual in ’16, punching down the cap twice a day but only for the first four or five days of the fermentations. “Some people will compare 2016 to 2010,” said Gublin, “but I find the ‘16s more consistent, with more matière sèche. And the '16s have much less tartaric acidity than the 2015s but similar pHs.” The malolactic fermentations finished between April and July of last year and all of the ‘16s were still on their lees in barrel, unracked, when I sampled them in January.
As for the ‘15s, “the tartaric acidity keeps the wines easily digestible and builds the structure of the vintage,” according to Gublin. “Although there’s a lot of dry material in the wines, and a high skin-to-juice ratio, 2015 doesn’t act like a hot year.” But alcohol levels for the estate wines are between 13.5% and 14% with no chaptalization. “Aromas are typically blacker in 2015 and redder in 2016,” Gublin noted. She added that the ‘15s are in the process of closing down in bottle, which for her is a pleasant surprise. “The ‘15s will age a long time, but the ‘16s will age well too, on their brilliant fruit.”
Incidentally, the Labruyère-Prieur Sélection wines are a négociant project started by Edouard Labruyère in 2013. Labruyère, whose family owns Château Rouget in Pomerol and Domaine Labruyère in Moulin à Vent in addition to Domaine Prieur, buys only fruit, and his wines are made by Gublin at Domaine Prieur.
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2015
2022 - 2028
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Winemaker Nadine Gublin described 2015 as “a very classic vintage of fresh wines from a late harvest, more red fruits than black in character.” The estate started its harvest with Pinot Noir on September 20, with grape sugars between 11.5% and 12.5%, and Gublin chaptalized lightly “for the texture of the wines” (they will be bottled with alcohol levels between 12.5% and 12.8%). Yields ranged widely according to the effects of frost, with estate-wide production down about 50% from a normal year. Gublin carried out less extraction than usual in ’16, punching down the cap twice a day but only for the first four or five days of the fermentations. “Some people will compare 2016 to 2010,” said Gublin, “but I find the ‘16s more consistent, with more matière sèche. And the '16s have much less tartaric acidity than the 2015s but similar pHs.” The malolactic fermentations finished between April and July of last year and all of the ‘16s were still on their lees in barrel, unracked, when I sampled them in January.
As for the ‘15s, “the tartaric acidity keeps the wines easily digestible and builds the structure of the vintage,” according to Gublin. “Although there’s a lot of dry material in the wines, and a high skin-to-juice ratio, 2015 doesn’t act like a hot year.” But alcohol levels for the estate wines are between 13.5% and 14% with no chaptalization. “Aromas are typically blacker in 2015 and redder in 2016,” Gublin noted. She added that the ‘15s are in the process of closing down in bottle, which for her is a pleasant surprise. “The ‘15s will age a long time, but the ‘16s will age well too, on their brilliant fruit.”
Incidentally, the Labruyère-Prieur Sélection wines are a négociant project started by Edouard Labruyère in 2013. Labruyère, whose family owns Château Rouget in Pomerol and Domaine Labruyère in Moulin à Vent in addition to Domaine Prieur, buys only fruit, and his wines are made by Gublin at Domaine Prieur.
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2015
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Owner Edouard Labruyère and winemaker Nadine Gublin were happy that I was able to put off my normal red wine visit to Domaine Prieur from November to December as the malolactic fermentations of the 2015s were just finishing in November. Gublin described 2015 as “a very great vintage for the reds, truly exceptional on the Côte de Nuits, with outstanding natural concentration due to low yields. The grapes had great phenolic maturity, and excellent acidity will keep the wines.” She went on: “The rain in August saved the vintage. The vines here didn’t really suffer the way they did in Beaujolais” [where the Labruyère family owns an estate in Moulin à Vent].
Domaine Prieur harvested Pinot Noir from September 7 through 11, picking with potential alcohol levels between 13% and 14% and eschewing chaptalization. Gublin did what she described as a light extraction, with the total cuvaison lasting 19 or 20 days and maximum fermentation temperatures not exceeding 28 degrees C.
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2012
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Consulting winemaker Nadine Gublin calls the estate's 2012 reds "surprising, exceptional, unimaginable. We were totally fooled: we did not expect great pinot noir. It's 2010 plus plus, with more ripeness. But we only discovered this during the elevage." As usual in the estate's deep, cold cellar, the malos were very slow to start and only finished in August and September (needless to say, Gublin is a major proponent of late malos). The wines were still on their lees in barrel, unracked, at the time of my mid-November visit but had been lightly sulfited at the end of September. According to Gublin, potential alcohol levels were an elevated 13.5% and there was zero chaptalization in 2010. She did a bit less pigeage than usual, due in part to the tiny, concentrated crop.
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2011
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Also recommended: 2011 Beaune Clos de la Feguine (86).
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2011
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Also recommended:2011 Beaune Clos de la Feguine (86).
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2011
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Domaine Prieur began harvesting on August 30 in 2011, bringing in their Volnay Santenots and Champans holdings first. "The wines don't have as much acidity as the 2010s," noted consulting winemaker Nadine Gublin, "but there was good tartaric acidity, which gives a crunchy quality to the finish and energizes the fruit. The phenolic maturity was good at lowish sugars, 11.5% on average." The fruit was completely destemmed but not crushed, and the cold maceration was limited to four or five days as the fermentations started quickly under the warm ambient conditions of early September. "You can't really chill uncrushed berries as well as juice," noted Gublin. Some cuvees, she told me, were lightly chaptalized, and others not at all. Gublin noted that the dry conditions in spring were difficult for some of the estate's young vines, but that the skins in 2011s were "solid." The malos finished late, in August and September, and the wines were still in barrel, unracked, at the time of my tasting.
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2011
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Domaine Prieur began harvesting on August 30 in 2011, bringing in their Volnay Santenots and Champans holdings first."The wines don't have as much acidity as the 2010s," noted consulting winemaker Nadine Gublin, "but there was good tartaric acidity, which gives a crunchy quality to the finish and energizes the fruit.The phenolic maturity was good at lowish sugars, 11.5% on average."The fruit was completely destemmed but not crushed, and the cold maceration was limited to four or five days as the fermentations started quickly under the warm ambient conditions of early September."You can't really chill uncrushed berries as well as juice," noted Gublin.Some cuvees, she told me, were lightly chaptalized, and others not at all.Gublin noted that the dry conditions in spring were difficult for some of the estate's young vines, but that the skins in 2011s were "solid."The malos finished late, in August and September, and the wines were still in barrel, unracked, at the time of my tasting.
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2010
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2010
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2010
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"The 2010s have a bit less acidity than the 2008s and are more likeable," said enologist Nadine Gublin. The grapes were harvested with potential alcohol levels between 12% and 13%, and some cuvees were not chaptalized at all. Some of the wines were racked in April and May following relatively early malos, but other wines only finished their secondary fermentations in September and had not yet been racked. Director Edouard Labruyere and enologist Gublin presented their 2009s before their 2010s, an approach that more estates should probably have taken, as the 2009s can come off as heavy or flat following the brighter 2010s. But there are plenty of rich, structured, well-balanced '09s at this address.
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2010
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"The 2010s have a bit less acidity than the 2008s and are more likeable," said enologist Nadine Gublin. The grapes were harvested with potential alcohol levels between 12% and 13%, and some cuvees were not chaptalized at all. Some of the wines were racked in April and May following relatively early malos, but other wines only finished their secondary fermentations in September and had not yet been racked. Director Edouard Labruyere and enologist Gublin presented their 2009s before their 2010s, an approach that more estates should probably have taken, as the 2009s can come off as heavy or flat following the brighter 2010s. But there are plenty of rich, structured, well-balanced '09s at this address.
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2009
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2009
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2009
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"The 2009s seemed too easy and tender at the beginning," said enologist Nadine Gublin, "but the reasonably late malos [mostly ending in May], thanks in part to the very cold winter, gave them more structure-a structure that was hidden at the beginning. The wines have been constructed during their elevage: they have taken on more thickness and tannic force." Gublin told me that the team began picking on September 8 and "took their time." She admitted to making the full allowable yields but noted that the phenolic material was strong and grape sugars were in the 13.5% to 14% range. The wines were still on their lees in barriques, unracked, at the time of my visit.
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2008
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2007
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Thanks to a "pre-harvest" carried out at the beginning of September, Domaine Prieur brought in fruit with decent phenolic maturity and sound levels of sugar (typically between 12% and 12.5%, but 13% for the Corton) and moderate acidity. The crop level averaged barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, according to Martin Prieur. "Overall phenolic ripeness was actually more regular than in 2006," noted enologist Nadine Gublin, "but the key was the quality of the fruit you kept." It's still early days, but in November I preferred the 2008s here to the 2007s for their greater energy. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (85). Other wines tasted: Meursault Clos de Mazeray.
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2007
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Thanks to a "pre-harvest" carried out at the beginning of September, Domaine Prieur brought in fruit with decent phenolic maturity and sound levels of sugar (typically between 12% and 12.5%, but 13% for the Corton) and moderate acidity. The crop level averaged barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, according to Martin Prieur. "Overall phenolic ripeness was actually more regular than in 2006," noted enologist Nadine Gublin, "but the key was the quality of the fruit you kept." It's still early days, but in November I preferred the 2008s here to the 2007s for their greater energy. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (85). Other wines tasted: Meursault Clos de Mazeray.
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2007
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This domain picked a very small crop beginning on August 30, due in equal parts to having eliminated a lot of fruit just before the harvest and to carrying out a severe selection in the vines. There was more rot on the Cote de Beaune than on the Cote de Nuits, according to Martin Prieur. Grape sugars were in the low 12s, and most of the wines were chaptalized a half-degree. "In principal, the 2006s have more material, and there was less rain," noted enologist Nadine Gublin, "but on the whole, the pinot noir may have been more consistently ripe in 2007 due to the precocity of the season." (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (86).
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2007
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This domain picked a very small crop beginning on August 30, due in equal parts to having eliminated a lot of fruit just before the harvest and to carrying out a severe selection in the vines. There was more rot on the Cote de Beaune than on the Cote de Nuits, according to Martin Prieur. Grape sugars were in the low 12s, and most of the wines were chaptalized a half-degree. "In principal, the 2006s have more material, and there was less rain," noted enologist Nadine Gublin, "but on the whole, the pinot noir may have been more consistently ripe in 2007 due to the precocity of the season." (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (86).
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2006
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This domain picked a very small crop beginning on August 30, due in equal parts to having eliminated a lot of fruit just before the harvest and to carrying out a severe selection in the vines. There was more rot on the Cote de Beaune than on the Cote de Nuits, according to Martin Prieur. Grape sugars were in the low 12s, and most of the wines were chaptalized a half-degree. "In principal, the 2006s have more material, and there was less rain," noted enologist Nadine Gublin, "but on the whole, the pinot noir may have been more consistently ripe in 2007 due to the precocity of the season." (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (86).
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2006
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This domain picked a very small crop beginning on August 30, due in equal parts to having eliminated a lot of fruit just before the harvest and to carrying out a severe selection in the vines. There was more rot on the Cote de Beaune than on the Cote de Nuits, according to Martin Prieur. Grape sugars were in the low 12s, and most of the wines were chaptalized a half-degree. "In principal, the 2006s have more material, and there was less rain," noted enologist Nadine Gublin, "but on the whole, the pinot noir may have been more consistently ripe in 2007 due to the precocity of the season." (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY) Also recommended: Meursault Clos de Mazeray (86).
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2006
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According to Martin Prieur, before August turned cold and gray this estate was planning to start their harvest with pinot noir on September 15. As it turned out, these dates were pushed back and the chardonnay ripened quickly, so the team harvested much of its chardonnay quickly between September 18 and 20 "in a very short window." The pinot ripened more slowly and Prieur says the fruit gained nearly two degrees in ripeness in the last five or six days. But in both 2006 and 2007, pinot vines on the Cote de Beaune required a lot of triage, with 20% to 30% of the fruit eliminated in both years. "There was much less rot in the Cote de Nuits-a function of the terroir and of better drainage," he added. Incidentally, enologist Nadine Gublin compared the young 2006 reds to the estate's 2001s and 1998s.
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2006
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According to Martin Prieur, before August turned cold and gray this estate was planning to start their harvest with pinot noir on September 15. As it turned out, these dates were pushed back and the chardonnay ripened quickly, so the team harvested much of its chardonnay quickly between September 18 and 20 "in a very short window." The pinot ripened more slowly and Prieur says the fruit gained nearly two degrees in ripeness in the last five or six days. But in both 2006 and 2007, pinot vines on the Cote de Beaune required a lot of triage, with 20% to 30% of the fruit eliminated in both years. "There was much less rot in the Cote de Nuits-a function of the terroir and of better drainage," he added. Incidentally, enologist Nadine Gublin compared the young 2006 reds to the estate's 2001s and 1998s.
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2005
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According to Martin Prieur, before August turned cold and gray this estate was planning to start their harvest with pinot noir on September 15. As it turned out, these dates were pushed back and the chardonnay ripened quickly, so the team harvested much of its chardonnay quickly between September 18 and 20 "in a very short window." The pinot ripened more slowly and Prieur says the fruit gained nearly two degrees in ripeness in the last five or six days. But in both 2006 and 2007, pinot vines on the Cote de Beaune required a lot of triage, with 20% to 30% of the fruit eliminated in both years. "There was much less rot in the Cote de Nuits-a function of the terroir and of better drainage," he added. Incidentally, enologist Nadine Gublin compared the young 2006 reds to the estate's 2001s and 1998s.
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2005
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Martin Prieur describes the domain's young 2005s as combining "the density and fleshiness of 1990, the finesse and purity of fresh fruit of 2002, and the color intensity of 2003." The wines, he went on, are homogeneous in quality and are accurate expressions of their terroirs. "Almost the perfection of pinot noir," he summarized. The team did much less pigeage than usual because the grapes didn't need it, and the fermentation went easily. None of the wines had been racked in November. (Frederick Wildman Sons, New York, NY) Other wines tasted: Meursault Clos de Mazeray.
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2005
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Martin Prieur describes the domain's young 2005s as combining "the density and fleshiness of 1990, the finesse and purity of fresh fruit of 2002, and the color intensity of 2003." The wines, he went on, are homogeneous in quality and are accurate expressions of their terroirs. "Almost the perfection of pinot noir," he summarized. The team did much less pigeage than usual because the grapes didn't need it, and the fermentation went easily. None of the wines had been racked in November. (Frederick Wildman Sons, New York, NY) Other wines tasted: Meursault Clos de Mazeray.
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2004
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Martin Prieur describes the domain's young 2005s as combining "the density and fleshiness of 1990, the finesse and purity of fresh fruit of 2002, and the color intensity of 2003." The wines, he went on, are homogeneous in quality and are accurate expressions of their terroirs. "Almost the perfection of pinot noir," he summarized. The team did much less pigeage than usual because the grapes didn't need it, and the fermentation went easily. None of the wines had been racked in November. (Frederick Wildman Sons, New York, NY) Other wines tasted: Meursault Clos de Mazeray.
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2004
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Martin Prieur describes the domain's young 2005s as combining "the density and fleshiness of 1990, the finesse and purity of fresh fruit of 2002, and the color intensity of 2003." The wines, he went on, are homogeneous in quality and are accurate expressions of their terroirs. "Almost the perfection of pinot noir," he summarized. The team did much less pigeage than usual because the grapes didn't need it, and the fermentation went easily. None of the wines had been racked in November. (Frederick Wildman Sons, New York, NY) Other wines tasted: Meursault Clos de Mazeray.
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2004
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According to Martin Prieur, the estate harvested by passing each vine twice on the same day, picking the good grapes first but eliminating most of what remained. The result was a very low estate-wide yield of barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, according to co-manager Bertrand Devillard, one of the lowest figures I heard on my November tour of Burgundy. Devillard compared the 2004s to the '98s:"Both vintages have a lot of fruit. "According to Devillard, a couple of the 2004 Prieur reds were either combined or declassified and one wine had just been racked when I stopped by to taste. Domaine Prieur harvested late in 2003 and managed to make fat, broad, very ripe wines that are nonetheless classically pinot in character and mostly escaped the cooked aspect of the vintage.
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2003
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According to Martin Prieur, the estate harvested by passing each vine twice on the same day, picking the good grapes first but eliminating most of what remained. The result was a very low estate-wide yield of barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, according to co-manager Bertrand Devillard, one of the lowest figures I heard on my November tour of Burgundy. Devillard compared the 2004s to the '98s:"Both vintages have a lot of fruit. "According to Devillard, a couple of the 2004 Prieur reds were either combined or declassified and one wine had just been racked when I stopped by to taste. Domaine Prieur harvested late in 2003 and managed to make fat, broad, very ripe wines that are nonetheless classically pinot in character and mostly escaped the cooked aspect of the vintage.
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2003
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According to Martin Prieur, the estate harvested by passing each vine twice on the same day, picking the good grapes first but eliminating most of what remained. The result was a very low estate-wide yield of barely 20 hectoliters per hectare, according to co-manager Bertrand Devillard, one of the lowest figures I heard on my November tour of Burgundy. Devillard compared the 2004s to the '98s:"Both vintages have a lot of fruit. "According to Devillard, a couple of the 2004 Prieur reds were either combined or declassified and one wine had just been racked when I stopped by to taste. Domaine Prieur harvested late in 2003 and managed to make fat, broad, very ripe wines that are nonetheless classically pinot in character and mostly escaped the cooked aspect of the vintage.
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2002
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2002
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2000
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1999
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1998
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1998
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1998
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This domain did not start harvesting its pinot noir until eight days after the official start of the vintage on the Cote de Beaune in '98, with the result that they brought in fruit with excellent potential alcohol and generally very ripe tannins. "We only chaptalized a few of the Cote de Nuits wines," said enologist Nadine Gublin, "but none of the Cote de Beaunes, because the grape sugars ranged from 12.8% to 13.5%." Several of the top '98s showed outstanding potential in November. The extremely ripe '97 reds, none of which were chaptalized but most of which required acid adjustment in the fermenter, are a distinctly mixed bag, with several cuvees a bit flaccid for my taste.
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1998
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This domain did not start harvesting its pinot noir until eight days after the official start of the vintage on the Cote de Beaune in '98, with the result that they brought in fruit with excellent potential alcohol and generally very ripe tannins. "We only chaptalized a few of the Cote de Nuits wines," said enologist Nadine Gublin, "but none of the Cote de Beaunes, because the grape sugars ranged from 12.8% to 13.5%." Several of the top '98s showed outstanding potential in November. The extremely ripe '97 reds, none of which were chaptalized but most of which required acid adjustment in the fermenter, are a distinctly mixed bag, with several cuvees a bit flaccid for my taste.
00
1997
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This domain did not start harvesting its pinot noir until eight days after the official start of the vintage on the Cote de Beaune in '98, with the result that they brought in fruit with excellent potential alcohol and generally very ripe tannins. "We only chaptalized a few of the Cote de Nuits wines," said enologist Nadine Gublin, "but none of the Cote de Beaunes, because the grape sugars ranged from 12.8% to 13.5%." Several of the top '98s showed outstanding potential in November. The extremely ripe '97 reds, none of which were chaptalized but most of which required acid adjustment in the fermenter, are a distinctly mixed bag, with several cuvees a bit flaccid for my taste.
00
1997
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or Sign Up
You'll Find The Article Name Here
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This domain did not start harvesting its pinot noir until eight days after the official start of the vintage on the Cote de Beaune in '98, with the result that they brought in fruit with excellent potential alcohol and generally very ripe tannins. "We only chaptalized a few of the Cote de Nuits wines," said enologist Nadine Gublin, "but none of the Cote de Beaunes, because the grape sugars ranged from 12.8% to 13.5%." Several of the top '98s showed outstanding potential in November. The extremely ripe '97 reds, none of which were chaptalized but most of which required acid adjustment in the fermenter, are a distinctly mixed bag, with several cuvees a bit flaccid for my taste.
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