2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay (2023 vintage)
00
2020
2023 - 2030
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Carillon was not sporting his trademark red jacket when I visited his bijou winery in the heart of Puligny; a late spot of autumn sun meant that it was not necessary. As usual, Carillon showed me through his latest bottled vintage: 2019 plus the 2020s from vat from his 5.25 hectares of vineyard. “The 2020s have less concentration and richness than 2019. It is a more Burgundy style of wine,” he explained. “I started picking on August 23, compared to September 10 in 2019, with the alcohol around 13°. The wines are all raised in around 20% new oak. I believe they should age well.” This was an excellent small set of wines. Among the 2019s, I thought the Puligny Les Perrières really stood out, whereas the Les Referts just has the edge.
00
2023
2025 - 2031
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“The harvest started on September 2,” Jacques Carillon told me once I had said bonjour to his cat. (Go to the church in the heart of Puligny and you will find him purring by the window opposite, although I am reliably informed that his feline friend went to cat heaven in the summer.) “The wines in 2023 are less concentrated and more approachable compared to the 2022. The Premier Crus are raised in 20% new oak, 15% for the Village Crus. The 2023s will be bottled in March.”
00
2022
2024 - 2029
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“The harvest started on September 2,” Jacques Carillon told me once I had said bonjour to his cat. (Go to the church in the heart of Puligny and you will find him purring by the window opposite, although I am reliably informed that his feline friend went to cat heaven in the summer.) “The wines in 2023 are less concentrated and more approachable compared to the 2022. The Premier Crus are raised in 20% new oak, 15% for the Village Crus. The 2023s will be bottled in March.”
00
2022
2024 - 2029
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Carillon’s two Abyssian cats were basking in the window, soaking up the unseasonal warm autumn weather inside his maison opposite the winery. I never knew he was a cat-lover. As usual, my tasting at this address was short due to the small number of cuvées. Carillon picked from August 26 to 31, which he said was very rare. “There was a bit of stress amongst the Premier Cru,” Carillon explains as he climbs up and down the ladders to dunk the pipette into the stainless-steel vats, “but the 30mm of rain at the end of July helped. The alcohol level in the end was around 13.5%. The 2022s will be racked in January and bottled afterwards.” Apart from his solitary Grand Cru, Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet, the Puligny Les Referts shines brightest at this prenatal stage, whereas the warm summer denied Champs Canet the tension one expects.
00
2021
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There is always a moment when I materialise at a Domaine, only to be met with blank expressions, a look that apologetically says, “No, we don’t have any appointment.” This year, it is Jacques Carillon in Puligny. A quick perusal of recent e-mail exchanges confirms that the oversight was on their side, not mine, which is probably the first time. (Upon further investigation, I believe my appointment was mixed up with someone else’s.) Thankfully, Carillon has a small portfolio, so we nip across the courtyard, where I taste his 2020s in bottle and a solitary representative from 2021. “One week, the temperature was 25° Celsius and the vines burst into life, then it fell to -6° Celsius the following week,” Carillon laments. “I lost 35% of the Puligny Village Cru because of the protection from the candles, but I lost around 80% of the Premier Crus.” Since that is the heart of his portfolio, quantities are so diminutive that he decides not to show them, except for that Village Cru. I feel that even this wine is discombobulated by the traumatic season.
00
2020
2023 - 2030
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There is always a moment when I materialise at a Domaine, only to be met with blank expressions, a look that apologetically says, “No, we don’t have any appointment.” This year, it is Jacques Carillon in Puligny. A quick perusal of recent e-mail exchanges confirms that the oversight was on their side, not mine, which is probably the first time. (Upon further investigation, I believe my appointment was mixed up with someone else’s.) Thankfully, Carillon has a small portfolio, so we nip across the courtyard, where I taste his 2020s in bottle and a solitary representative from 2021. “One week, the temperature was 25° Celsius and the vines burst into life, then it fell to -6° Celsius the following week,” Carillon laments. “I lost 35% of the Puligny Village Cru because of the protection from the candles, but I lost around 80% of the Premier Crus.” Since that is the heart of his portfolio, quantities are so diminutive that he decides not to show them, except for that Village Cru. I feel that even this wine is discombobulated by the traumatic season.
00
2019
2022 - 2027
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Carillon was not sporting his trademark red jacket when I visited his bijou winery in the heart of Puligny; a late spot of autumn sun meant that it was not necessary. As usual, Carillon showed me through his latest bottled vintage: 2019 plus the 2020s from vat from his 5.25 hectares of vineyard. “The 2020s have less concentration and richness than 2019. It is a more Burgundy style of wine,” he explained. “I started picking on August 23, compared to September 10 in 2019, with the alcohol around 13°. The wines are all raised in around 20% new oak. I believe they should age well.” This was an excellent small set of wines. Among the 2019s, I thought the Puligny Les Perrières really stood out, whereas the Les Referts just has the edge.
00
2019
2022 - 2027
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Monsieur Carillon cut a striking figure attired in his regulation facemask and thick rounded glasses. This is always a short tasting, as Carillon only produces half-a-dozen cuvées, which afforded me time to taste his bottled 2018s after the 2019s. “There was a little frost in Puligny,” he rued. “We found that the grapes were very small. We were predicting a harvest on 20 September, but as sugar levels increased that date was brought forward to 15 and finally 10 September. Yields were low due to a combination of frost, the poor flowering, plus the dryness. The 2019s are matured in 15% new oak for Village Crus and 20% for the Premier Crus, alcohol levels are around 14° and 14.5° respectively. The dryness concentrated both the sugar and acidity. The 2018s, which were bottled in March 2020, are more massive and contain less alcohol than the 2019s.” Carillon’s wines are your quintessential nervy, steely Pulignys. Choosing between the two most recent vintages was difficult but at this address I might err slightly towards 2018 over 2019 by a small and mutable margin.
00
2018
2020 - 2028
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Monsieur Carillon cut a striking figure attired in his regulation facemask and thick rounded glasses. This is always a short tasting, as Carillon only produces half-a-dozen cuvées, which afforded me time to taste his bottled 2018s after the 2019s. “There was a little frost in Puligny,” he rued. “We found that the grapes were very small. We were predicting a harvest on 20 September, but as sugar levels increased that date was brought forward to 15 and finally 10 September. Yields were low due to a combination of frost, the poor flowering, plus the dryness. The 2019s are matured in 15% new oak for Village Crus and 20% for the Premier Crus, alcohol levels are around 14° and 14.5° respectively. The dryness concentrated both the sugar and acidity. The 2018s, which were bottled in March 2020, are more massive and contain less alcohol than the 2019s.” Carillon’s wines are your quintessential nervy, steely Pulignys. Choosing between the two most recent vintages was difficult but at this address I might err slightly towards 2018 over 2019 by a small and mutable margin.
00
2018
2020 - 2025
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My tasting with Jacques Carillon never takes long since this diminutive Domaine only has half a dozen cuvées. And it will get shorter from 2018 since his father's lease on the Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes came to an end so that henceforth the totality of the family's holding will be made by his brother at Domaine François Carillon. At least the quality of wines at this address is superlative. He told me that he began the picking on 28 August and that he adopts the "Roulot" method of 12 months in barrel and then six months in stainless steel before bottling. As usual, I tasted through the last two vintages, so you will find notes for both 2017 and 2018 here .
00
2017
2020 - 2028
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My tasting with Jacques Carillon never takes long since this diminutive Domaine only has half a dozen cuvées. And it will get shorter from 2018 since his father's lease on the Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes came to an end so that henceforth the totality of the family's holding will be made by his brother at Domaine François Carillon. At least the quality of wines at this address is superlative. He told me that he began the picking on 28 August and that he adopts the "Roulot" method of 12 months in barrel and then six months in stainless steel before bottling. As usual, I tasted through the last two vintages, so you will find notes for both 2017 and 2018 here .
00
2017
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Jacques Carillon, who started picking on September 1, believes his grapes lost some acidity during the warm nights just before the harvest. Partly for this reason, he views the vintage as “a bit too round and easy,” at least in comparison to 2016, but then Carillon has always preferred cooler, more classic years with high-pitched aromatics, brisk minerality and firm spine. While he had higher yields in his village parcels in 2017 than in 2016, he made a reasonable 48 to 50 hectoliters per hectare in most of his premier crus as hot weather during the flowering resulted in coulure and smaller grapes. He harvested with potential alcohol typically in the 12.5% to 13% range, chaptalizing his less-ripe wines by about half a percent but more like 0.3 for those he brought in at 13%. In contrast to a few recent vintages here, the malolactic fermentations went fairly quickly and were mostly finished two to three months prior to my early-June visit.
00
2016
2022 - 2030
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2016
2019 - 2025
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Jacques Carillon considers his 2016 white wines to be more classic than his '15s or '17s. The summer of '16 featured cooler nights and the grapes retained good acidity, he told me, but the mostly sunny first half of September gave gras to the '16s anyway. He added that 2016 was a bit like 2013 in terms of harvest dates and the minerality of the wines. Although Carillon noted that a percentage of his clients "want early fruit and minerality," he recommends that his 2016 crus be held for at least four years. "During years five through eight, the wines are open while still being fresh," he noted. But he emphasized that for his Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, he'd hold it for at least eight years assuming a cool cellar, as this wine is always the highest in acidity here. Carillon bottled his 2016s in March.
00
2015
2022 - 2026
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2015
2018 - 2023
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Carillon’s 2016s were barely starting their secondary fermentations at the beginning of June and thus were untasteable at the time of my visit. Carillon told me he was surprised by their natural acidity levels considering the lateness of the harvest. “The wines are less round than the 2015s but will be more minerally,” he predicted. He was afraid of the swollen berries but noted that “the concentration and the material are there.” He made 40 to 42 hectoliters per hectare in his premier crus, which he described as “almost normal yields for unfrosted spots.” I look forward to sampling these wines in their finished form next spring.
Carillon finds that the 2015s burn the mouth a bit with alcohol. The wines reminded him a bit of Condrieus just after the malolactic fermentations but he believes that they are better balanced now, noting that “I thought the 2003s would drink quickly but they're still fresh today."
00
2015
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"I was afraid that the 2015s would be too rich, big and heavy like the 2003s but they are turning out to be fresh wines," said Jacques Carillon, who began harvesting on September 2. He believes that cooler temperatures during the harvest (the heat broke on the night of August 31) were a strong positive factor. But he admitted that the '15s are "still atypically large." Fruit sugars were high: between 12.5% and 13% for his village parcels and between 13.2% and 13.7% for his crus. He did very little chaptalization.
Except for a couple components of the village Puligny, Carillon's 2015s finished their malolactic fermentations about two months prior to my visit, but they had not yet been sulfited. The post-malo acidity levels in 2015 are in the range of 3.7 to 4.0 grams per liter, said Carillon, vs. 4.0 to 4.5 in 2014 and an even higher 4.5 to 5.0 in 2013, a vintage that Carillon compares in its cutting character to 2008 and 2010--"like vintages before global warming." Interestingly, Carillon describes his 2014s as "a compromise between 2013 and 2015: rounder and richer than 2013 but a bit less minerally."
00
2014
2023 - 2030
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2014
2018 - 2023
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"The 2014s were round and rich in barrel but élevage really refined their mineral side," said Jacques Carillon. "The wines have re-closed since bottling and have gained in freshness and spine," he explained, adding that "it will be great if they don't get fatter with time in bottle." Carillon compared his young '14s to his 2002s and noted that they're a bit less minerally than the more linear, cutting 2013s, which he compared to "the wines we made before global warming." Two thousand fourteen, he summarized, is a compromise between 2013 and 2015.
00
2014
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Not surprisingly, Jacques Carillon prefers 2013 to 2014 for its balance and typical Burgundy character, as he generally finds more minerality in the cooler, higher-acid years. "The 2014s are more enveloping and flattering, while the '13s are more like the 2008s." But he considers 2014 to be "a very good vintage with good material," as crop levels for the premier crus were down 30% to 35% owing to hail and to the smaller size of the grapes. He harvested between September 10 and 16 in '14 with potential alcohol levels between 12.5% and 13% and chaptalized roughly half a degree. Carillon told me that following a débourbage lasting from 12 to 18 hours he begins with clear juice but that he then adds back a liter or two of lees per barrel. He generally stirs the lees every three weeks or so until the end of the malo but more like once a month for the 2014s.
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2013
2022 - 2026
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2013
2019 - 2024
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Not surprisingly, Jacques Carillon prefers 2013 to 2014 for its balance and typical Burgundy character, as he generally finds more minerality in the cooler, higher-acid years. "The 2014s are more enveloping and flattering, while the '13s are more like the 2008s." But he considers 2014 to be "a very good vintage with good material," as crop levels for the premier crus were down 30% to 35% owing to hail and to the smaller size of the grapes. He harvested between September 10 and 16 in '14 with potential alcohol levels between 12.5% and 13% and chaptalized roughly half a degree. Carillon told me that following a débourbage lasting from 12 to 18 hours he begins with clear juice but that he then adds back a liter or two of lees per barrel. He generally stirs the lees every three weeks or so until the end of the malo but more like once a month for the 2014s.
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2012
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In contrast to his brother Francois, Jacques Carillon's 2013s were going through long, late malos as of the time of my visit at the beginning of June (the Bourgogne Blanc was barely starting).Carillon told me that the crop levels of his crus were down 50% from normal in '13 owing to the cold weather during the flowering and the small size of the grapes."The 2012s are more fat and enveloping, and more concentrated, while the '13s are more taut," he said.I have opted not to publish notes on the 2013s that were not at least halfway through their secondary fermentations when I stopped by to taste.
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2012
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"It was never really hot in 2012 and the cool nights protected the minerality in the grapes," said Jacques Carillon, whose crop levels were down anywhere from 50% to 75% owing to cold weather during the flowering and the three hail events."The fat of the wines is blocking their minerality now," he told me."The 2012s don't have the same tension as the 2010s.But they're concentrated wines with good acidity."Carillon finds the 2011s more floral and open on the nose, but he also feels that they have good minerality.Acidity levels in the finished '11s are quite healthy:in the 4.5 to 4.9 grams-per-liter range.Carillon filters the bourbes and thus brings only the fine lees into barrel.He ages his premier crus in about 20% new oak, and the village wines in roughly 15%.
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2011
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"It was never really hot in 2012 and the cool nights protected the minerality in the grapes," said Jacques Carillon, whose crop levels were down anywhere from 50% to 75% owing to cold weather during the flowering and the three hail events."The fat of the wines is blocking their minerality now," he told me."The 2012s don't have the same tension as the 2010s.But they're concentrated wines with good acidity."Carillon finds the 2011s more floral and open on the nose, but he also feels that they have good minerality.Acidity levels in the finished '11s are quite healthy:in the 4.5 to 4.9 grams-per-liter range.Carillon filters the bourbes and thus brings only the fine lees into barrel.He ages his premier crus in about 20% new oak, and the village wines in roughly 15%.
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2011
2014 - 2014
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Jacques Carillon's 2011s are super-impressive. The wines are brilliant, focused and persistent, with great texture and balance, much of which comes from a relatively early harvest that started on August 30th. Yields were in the normal range, which here means about 45 hectoliters per hectare for the village wines and 40 hectoliters for the 1er Crus. This is one of the few cellars where malos progressed slower than normal. The 1er Crus were bottled at the end of March. Carillon used about 15% new oak for the village wines, 20% for the 1er Crus and 50% for the Bienvenues.
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2011
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Jacques Carillon is confident that 2011 will turn out to be "a pretty year" for Burgundy's white wines.He told me he stirred the lees every two or three weeks until the end of the malolactic fermentations, most of which had just finished at the time of my visit or were nearly done.He describes his finished 2010s as "like '08 but with more concentration:the wines have lovely fruits and flowers and good mineral lift."Carillon noted that the '10s have not yet closed up and he wondered if they would.
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2010
2020 - 2028
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2010
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Jacques Carillon is confident that 2011 will turn out to be "a pretty year" for Burgundy's white wines. He told me he stirred the lees every two or three weeks until the end of the malolactic fermentations, most of which had just finished at the time of my visit or were nearly done. He describes his finished 2010s as "like '08 but with more concentration: the wines have lovely fruits and flowers and good mineral lift." Carillon noted that the '10s have not yet closed up and he wondered if they would.
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2010
2013 - 2013
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Jacques Carillon did not have an easy go of things in 2010, the first vintage he made and bottled on his own after he and his brother François divided their family's domaine. Rain and cold weather during the flowering took with them 20-25% of yields in the village level wines and as much as 40% in the premier crus. The 2010s spent one year in barrel (15%-20% new), followed by six months in steel. The 2010s were bottled from March to June 2012, starting with the simplest wines first.
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2009
2013 - 2013
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The 2009s are the last wines brothers François and Jacques Carillon made together. François and Jacques split the 2009s in bottle and will each be selling the wines with their respective labels. The wines themselves are identical. The harvest started on September 7th. The wines spent one year on their lees with no racking and were bottled in February and March 2011. I also tasted several 2010s, but the wines had been sulphured one week before my visit and were virtually impossible to read. The 2010s I tasted were Puligny-Montrachet (villages), Puligny-Montrachet premier crus Champ Canet, Les Referts, and Les Perrières, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Macherelles and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet.
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