2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Colombis
$210 (2020)
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
Grenache (2020 vintage)
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2015
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2020
2024 - 2040
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I caught up with the dashing Isabel Ferrando one day before she was headed for South Africa to visit her daughter, who was doing an apprenticeship at Mullineux Winery. Back in 2002, Ferrando purchased the estate, then called Domaine Saint-Préfert, from the Serre family. Since then, she has worked diligently to position her winery, now named after herself, at the very top of the quality hierarchy in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Over time, Ferrando increasingly felt that blending many different parcels enabled her to craft wines with the greatest complexity. As a result, the two Cuvées Collection, Charles Giraud and Réserve Auguste Favier, have seen their final release with the 2019 vintage. The estate currently covers 24 hectares of vines in the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, of which 21 are in production. Certified biodynamic since 2020, Ferrando always keeps three hectares without plants for up to five years, allowing the soils to regenerate. Only two hectares are planted with varieties destined for white wines, such as old vines Clairette Rose, a pink color mutation from Clairette with an average age of around 80 years, and Roussanne. Since the 2020 vintage, Ferrando only produces four separate wines: two whites, a traditional white and a Cuvée Spéciale Vieilles Clairettes, and two reds, a traditional red and Colombis. Today, Ferrando produces fragrant wines of remarkable elegance. The only caveats are the prices, which have been rising considerably over the past few years.
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2019
2025 - 2035
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2018
2024 - 2034
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2017
2023 - 2033
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2017
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2016
2025 - 2037
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2016
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2014
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The Grenache vines that Isabel Ferrando uses here are between 70 and "just over 100 years" of age, she told me. The wine, which is "usually made completely with whole clusters unless the stems aren't fully ripe, which is rare now," is fermented in concrete tanks, followed by anywhere from a year to 16 months of aging in used demi-muids.
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2013
2020 - 2026
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The Grenache vines that Isabel Ferrando uses here are between 70 and "just over 100 years" of age, she told me. The wine, which is "usually made completely with whole clusters unless the stems aren't fully ripe, which is rare now," is fermented in concrete tanks, followed by anywhere from a year to 16 months of aging in used demi-muids.
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2013
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Since Isabel Ferrando's sole Châteauneuf-du-Pape bottling here is based entirely on Grenache, 2013 hit her especially hard, with production off by almost two-thirds. The small silver lining was that what little wine was made was "quite good," she added. "The extended growing season and clean harvest helped to offset the pain of the brutally small crop a bit," she told me, adding that she thinks that her 2013 will age gracefully and, thanks to its harmonious tannins, probably never really shut down. Two thousand twelve, on the other hand, was "a wonderful vintage, with high quality and decent quantity, compared to '13." Ferrando thinks that even though the tannins in her Colombis 2012 are "round and harmonious," the wine will surprise people with its ability to age.
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2012
2017 - 2026
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Since Isabel Ferrando's sole Châteauneuf-du-Pape bottling here is based entirely on Grenache, 2013 hit her especially hard, with production off by almost two-thirds. The small silver lining was that what little wine was made was "quite good," she added. "The extended growing season and clean harvest helped to offset the pain of the brutally small crop a bit," she told me, adding that she thinks that her 2013 will age gracefully and, thanks to its harmonious tannins, probably never really shut down. Two thousand twelve, on the other hand, was "a wonderful vintage, with high quality and decent quantity, compared to '13." Ferrando thinks that even though the tannins in her Colombis 2012 are "round and harmonious," the wine will surprise people with its ability to age.
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2012
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2011
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2011
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2010
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2009
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"I've made a very conscious move away from heaviness and from harvesting with overripeness," Isabel Ferrando told me. "Colombis continues to be my experimental wine and the way it turns out informs what I do with Saint-Prefert, which is also becoming a wine of freshness more than power." Ferrando is a serious gourmand and cook, as well as an avid, well-traveled mushroom and truffle hunter. Her husband is a fanatical chasseur of birds and small game, "which makes the table complete," she said. She told me that she always considers food when making her wines: "It's impossible for me to separate them, and since I like to enjoy long meals, heavy wines have little interest or use to me." Ferrando did not make a 2008 Colombis.
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2007
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2007
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2006
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2006
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Two thousand four was the first vintage for this all-grenache wine, made from vines owned by Isabel Ferrando, who also owns Domaine Saint Prefert. There are two parcels, one (1.3 ha.) planted on sand, the other (1.2 ha.) on clay. As of 2006, the wine will be raised in 100% new oak-"to see what happens"-according to Ferrando. This is obviously a dramatic departure from her first two vintages but Ferrando is clear that she is on a learning curve with this wine. She arrived in Chateauneuf in 2002 and has been stunned by how warmly she has been accepted by the community. "You hear that French wine villages are wary of outsiders and distant, but that is far, far from the case here," she told me. She went on about "the amazing generosity of so many of the people here who gave me their time and lent me their experience," noting that some producers call her literally every day-"to ask how everything is, to talk about the vines and how fermentations are coming along, and so forth. It's incredible."
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2005
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Two thousand four was the first vintage for this all-grenache wine, made from vines owned by Isabel Ferrando, who also owns Domaine Saint Prefert. There are two parcels, one (1.3 ha.) planted on sand, the other (1.2 ha.) on clay. As of 2006, the wine will be raised in 100% new oak-"to see what happens"-according to Ferrando. This is obviously a dramatic departure from her first two vintages but Ferrando is clear that she is on a learning curve with this wine. She arrived in Chateauneuf in 2002 and has been stunned by how warmly she has been accepted by the community. "You hear that French wine villages are wary of outsiders and distant, but that is far, far from the case here," she told me. She went on about "the amazing generosity of so many of the people here who gave me their time and lent me their experience," noting that some producers call her literally every day-"to ask how everything is, to talk about the vines and how fermentations are coming along, and so forth. It's incredible."
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2004
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2004
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