2023 Musigny Grand Cru

After admiring his koi fish, who are blissfully unaware that they are swimming in one of Burgundy’s most hallowed Domaines, Christophe Roumier and I descended down to his cellar to taste through his 2023. “I did a green harvest with some younger vines that are planted with older vines,” he tells me. “In two parcels, we dropped half the crop. I tasted the skins before harvest and noticed the ripeness of tannins did not occur until just before we started harvest. I think the heat blocked the maturation. I started picking on September 13. We had to sort as there were some shriveled berries, mainly from the younger vines, but it is common with that kind of volume. I could keep the same level of whole bunch as other years. I acidified a tiny amount because of the stems [that decrease acidity]. It is a good-sized crop, the largest since 1999, yet there was no overproduction. I like the style, combining a tannic base with ripe fruit, so the wines are not too dark. Even though there was little malo, the wines have become more subtle. Acid levels are a little weak as pH was a bit high.”

This is an exemplary set of wines from Roumier. The two wines that made the biggest impression were the Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses and the Les Cras. The Bonnes-Mares is wonderful and might perhaps keep its nose in front of the Musigny, which comprises two barrels or 600 bottles this year, which is 600 more than there will be in 2024.