1997 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru

Christophe Roumier describes both '96 and '95 as vintages high in acidity. "The '96s are richer in fruit, tactile and minerally," he explains, "more like the classic model of Burgundy. But if you fear acidity, you won't like the '96 vintage." Nineteen ninety five, in comparison, is "more aromatically complex and baroque, similar to 1978." Roumier rates the two vintages as roughly equal. Nineteen ninety seven, which featured grape sugars as high as 13.9% at this estate, produced wines with ripe, soft tannins and low acidity; no chaptalization was necessary but some cuvees were acidified. Estate wide yields averaged just 32 hectoliters per hectare. In structure, '97 resembles '85, says Roumier, who noted that the '85s may have been bottled a bit late. At the time of my early November visit, Roumier expected to bottle his '97s by the end of December, the earliest ever at this estate. These wines do not offer the sappy, urgent quality or the razor sharp flavor definition of the two earlier vintages here, but then few Burgundies do.