2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
France
Chambolle Musigny
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2022
2028 - 2055
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Christophe Roumier and I conducted much of the tasting, sporting matching bobble hats in different colors (gifts from an importer from the previous visit). At least they kept our heads warm. Roumier was typically self-effacing as I tasted through his complete range of 2022s. “It wasn’t a complicated growing season, apart from small worries about powdery mildew,” he explains. “I started picking on September 3, and there was around one week of picking, like normal. The highest alcohol level is 13.6%, and it’s quite uniform. I shortened the pre-fermentation cold soak to four or five days instead of nine or ten, so the cuvaison is shorter. I did three or four punch downs.” I asked Roumier whether he could see differences between the terre blanches and terre rouges soils in Bonnes-Mares in the light of global warming. He told me that he felt the latter is more impacted by dryness, yet Bonnes-Mares copes well as a Grand Cru. I won’t blather on about individual cuvées because these were exemplary wines, surfeit with tension, complexity and terroir expression. Above all, these wines set tastebuds alight. The good news is that there are greater quantities than in 2021, and Roumier said he would probably reduce prices on a few cuvées because he feels that it’s the right thing to do. That will not be reflected in the secondary market, where speculation renders these some of the most expensive in Burgundy. Unlike others, Roumier has no interest in the pecuniary side of the business, wishing that people would simply enjoy his wines and perhaps allow them to mature in bottle, where they can often evolve into wines of utter profundity.
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2023
2028 - 2055
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After admiring his koi fish, who are blissfully unaware that they are swimming in one of Burgundy’s most hallowed Domaines, Christophe Roumier and I descended down to his cellar to taste through his 2023. “I did a green harvest with some younger vines that are planted with older vines,” he tells me. “In two parcels, we dropped half the crop. I tasted the skins before harvest and noticed the ripeness of tannins did not occur until just before we started harvest. I think the heat blocked the maturation. I started picking on September 13. We had to sort as there were some shriveled berries, mainly from the younger vines, but it is common with that kind of volume. I could keep the same level of whole bunch as other years. I acidified a tiny amount because of the stems [that decrease acidity]. It is a good-sized crop, the largest since 1999, yet there was no overproduction. I like the style, combining a tannic base with ripe fruit, so the wines are not too dark. Even though there was little malo, the wines have become more subtle. Acid levels are a little weak as pH was a bit high.”
This is an exemplary set of wines from Roumier. The two wines that made the biggest impression were the Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses and the Les Cras. The Bonnes-Mares is wonderful and might perhaps keep its nose in front of the Musigny, which comprises two barrels or 600 bottles this year, which is 600 more than there will be in 2024.
00
2021
2028 - 2038
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“There cannot be anything you don’t know after six weeks,” Christophe Roumier quips when I drop in at his winery. True, but then again, you always find something new with each visit, and this is no different, even if I have reached visit number 121. “We were not as affected by the April frost, never at the same level as Côte de Beaune. Altogether, the volume is down, but it’s difficult to say exactly how much, maybe around 25%? Some parcels were cropped at around 15-16hL/ha while others were not frozen, resulting in an average yield of around 24hL/ha. Rainfall was also challenging, and my team was very efficient at spraying (organic), including two Sundays, to protect against mildew. We started the harvest on 24 September. Ripeness was good in the end, with just a little botrytis in the final days of harvest, but that was negligible. I did the same cuvaison, 20 to 22 days including pre-fermentation soak, with the normal levels of whole bunches. I decided we needed a little more punch down for extraction with a little less new oak. The wines will be bottled a bit earlier in January, so they are all in vat at the moment. They have high pH with a lot of malic, so the barrel change has been like it was 25 to 30 years ago. The malo finished at the end of June, and reduction never really showed. I like the style of wine, the lightness but with flavour, the delicacy of tannins and transparency. It breaks the run of black fruit vintages.”
What I have learned to appreciate about Roumier is that putting aside the clamour for his wines and secondary market prices, there is an honesty about his wines that means they reflect strengths and weaknesses. They are not faultless. They are not infallible. Tasting through his 2021s, some left me breathless with praise and others just missed a bit of substance. Yet the common thread throughout these wines, and indeed several mature vintages encountered during my Burgundy marathon, is they are wines you want to drink, as banal as that reads. These are always reds with freshness and vibrancy that urge you back for one more sip.
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2020
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2020
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2019
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2019
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Christophe Roumier asked me if I would not mind bringing my own stemware and spittoon. It might sound excessively prudent to some, though personally I expected more to do this. I was happy to oblige. You cannot be too safe. And throughout our tasting Roumier dutifully stood four or five metres away as I tasted his 2019s and a selection of 2018s.
“It was an early season like 2018 and 2020. We had some rain until the middle of March and then it became dry,” he told me. “Bud break was around the end of March, so we were afraid of frost, which fortunately did not show up. It was an easy season overall because it was dry. Flowering was around the beginning of June, the fruit set was consistent from vine to vine. Temperatures increased from the end of June and throughout July, becoming slightly lower in August. It was so dry that some of the vines halted the ripening process. We started picking on 16 September under good conditions and given the early bud break we should have picked earlier. So, in the end it was a long hang time. The growing season was a rare chance to have ripeness and acidity together, the fruit was so ripe and clean with good juice to skin ratio. The malos were between end of May and beginning of July. Before malos, the wines were very tight but afterwards I could really see their structure, without the heaviness that you occasionally get with the 2018s. The wines have not been racked and at the moment they don’t seem to need racking, so they may stay that way until bottling next spring, probably April. The good surprise is that we kept the acidity. Tartaric acid is at very good levels although pH could be a little lower. Alcohol is generally lower than 2018, the highest in Bonnes-Mares at 13.8° whereas the 2018 was over 14.0°.” Asking Roumier what appeals to him about the vintage he replied: “I like the density of the 2019s, their frame and transparency. The vintage can dominate the style of the wines but in 2019 I feel reassured that the terroir shows through. Initially I thought they could be compared to 2015, but bigger in terms of alcohol and dimension, in fact they are similar in balance. I love this vintage. I’ve liked it from the beginning, which is not always the case. It has been good from the start of the ageing and if you asked me to make 2019 again, I would.”
It might be playing the same old record, but Roumier’s wines excel in 2019 and I can easily understand why he waxed lyrical. They just have a sense of brightness and density combined with concentration. They defy the hypothetical style that a season like 2019 would produce. In particular, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras stood out, whilst among the Les Amoureuses/Bonnes-Mares/Musigny triumvirate, it is the Bonnes-Mares that had its nose in front. Roumier, instead, is smitten by Les Amoureuses. The Musigny is reduced to one new barrel this year, even including all the stems, so good luck tracking down one of those 300-odd bottles. Roumier also opened his 2019 Corton-Charlemagne, a wine that since 2014 has been made with an early malo created by heating the cellar. Bottled prior to harvest, I prefer the 2019 over the 2018 tasted alongside, since it demonstrated a little more precision and charm.
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2018
2032 - 2048
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Instead of a series of Vinous Tables, over the holiday season, I wrote a single paragraph on places that I frequent during my annual three or four months in the region. It is not intended to be a comprehensive list, and for reasons of length, I reluctantly exclude Beaujolais and Mâconnais, each bejeweled with their own outstanding restaurants that often offer better value. My selection is listed in order of personal preference. Hopefully, it provides a useful guide. Feel free to add your own.
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2018
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2018
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Christophe Roumier asked me if I would not mind bringing my own stemware and spittoon. It might sound excessively prudent to some, though personally I expected more to do this. I was happy to oblige. You cannot be too safe. And throughout our tasting Roumier dutifully stood four or five metres away as I tasted his 2019s and a selection of 2018s.
“It was an early season like 2018 and 2020. We had some rain until the middle of March and then it became dry,” he told me. “Bud break was around the end of March, so we were afraid of frost, which fortunately did not show up. It was an easy season overall because it was dry. Flowering was around the beginning of June, the fruit set was consistent from vine to vine. Temperatures increased from the end of June and throughout July, becoming slightly lower in August. It was so dry that some of the vines halted the ripening process. We started picking on 16 September under good conditions and given the early bud break we should have picked earlier. So, in the end it was a long hang time. The growing season was a rare chance to have ripeness and acidity together, the fruit was so ripe and clean with good juice to skin ratio. The malos were between end of May and beginning of July. Before malos, the wines were very tight but afterwards I could really see their structure, without the heaviness that you occasionally get with the 2018s. The wines have not been racked and at the moment they don’t seem to need racking, so they may stay that way until bottling next spring, probably April. The good surprise is that we kept the acidity. Tartaric acid is at very good levels although pH could be a little lower. Alcohol is generally lower than 2018, the highest in Bonnes-Mares at 13.8° whereas the 2018 was over 14.0°.” Asking Roumier what appeals to him about the vintage he replied: “I like the density of the 2019s, their frame and transparency. The vintage can dominate the style of the wines but in 2019 I feel reassured that the terroir shows through. Initially I thought they could be compared to 2015, but bigger in terms of alcohol and dimension, in fact they are similar in balance. I love this vintage. I’ve liked it from the beginning, which is not always the case. It has been good from the start of the ageing and if you asked me to make 2019 again, I would.”
It might be playing the same old record, but Roumier’s wines excel in 2019 and I can easily understand why he waxed lyrical. They just have a sense of brightness and density combined with concentration. They defy the hypothetical style that a season like 2019 would produce. In particular, Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras stood out, whilst among the Les Amoureuses/Bonnes-Mares/Musigny triumvirate, it is the Bonnes-Mares that had its nose in front. Roumier, instead, is smitten by Les Amoureuses. The Musigny is reduced to one new barrel this year, even including all the stems, so good luck tracking down one of those 300-odd bottles. Roumier also opened his 2019 Corton-Charlemagne, a wine that since 2014 has been made with an early malo created by heating the cellar. Bottled prior to harvest, I prefer the 2019 over the 2018 tasted alongside, since it demonstrated a little more precision and charm.
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2018
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Christophe Roumier, for sure the most affable winemaker in the Côte d'Or, guided me through his 2018s when I dropped into his domaine in the heart of Chambolle-Musigny. “The only difficulty was in spring to mid-June because of the rain, which fell every three days, so the mildew pressure was strong. But it went OK," Roumier told me. "Then the weather was dry and warm, which broke the mildew cycle. August saw high temperatures and for the young vines it was a little challenging. Some of the vines stopped their growth cycle. I started picking on 5 September and it took around six and a half days. It was difficult to choose the picking date as there were so many opportunities. Before, when I tasted the berries, we knew the sugars were fine. But I was convinced there was some progress to be made and the skins could be riper, so I accepted more alcohol in order to make sure that the tannins were ripe. Looking back, I might have employed a bigger team in order to pick more quickly, even so, I would have started the same date. The alcohol levels in the Musigny and Ruchottes-Chambertin are at 13.1/13.2% alcohol and the highest is Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras at 14.2%. Most are around 13.6-13.8%. The yields are just 3% less than in 2017, which was a normal crop. The vinification was fine but the higher alcohol levels meant that some sugar could be released after the pressing. Consequently, these could be slow in terms of finishing their alcoholic fermentation and so I kept these wines in tank for another couple of days. It meant that some malos started immediately, before the sugars were finished, and some of my malos didn’t finish until the beginning of July. I felt happier with these wines after the malolactic was over - they were a bit like "monsters" before. Now they feel fresher. I like the way they are, so I will keep them on the lees until we will prepare them for bottling. SO2 was added in July and they will be transferred in stainless steel in January for bottling in March." I asked Roumier for his overall impression of the 2018 growing season. "If you look back on the 1960s and 1970s when it was so wet, it was extremely difficult to achieve ripeness. That is no longer a problem. It’s a peculiar vintage. The fruit was just beautiful. I compare it with 2003 in terms of acidity and alcohol levels are a little higher, the tannins softer than in 2003. I feel better with these 2018s than 2003 as the tannins are softer and less astringent than in 2003. Tartaric levels are low. That is what it has in common with 2005. Or it could be 1990 as well." Roumier has overseen some wonderful 2018s crowned by a fantastic Bonnes-Mares and Les Amoureuses. I am more cautious towards his Les Cras that I felt was compromised by some warmth on the finish.
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2017
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2017
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2017
2022 - 2040
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Having been blessed with verticals of both Christophe Roumier’s Bonnes-Mares and Musigny in the previous 12 months, I have already enjoyed more than my fair share of Roumier’s wines. But as I stated in the introduction to my Bonnes-Mares article, I do not put Roumier or indeed any other grower on a pedestal by dint of reputation or clamor for their wines. I take them as they come and appraise them objectively, just as Roumier does himself.
“It was an easy growing season,” he remarked as we descended into his barrel cellar. “We had to undertake some green harvesting in Chambolle Les Cras and in Bonnes-Mares in order to control the vigour. Then we started the picking on September 8 and harvested over the following six days. The Premier Crus include between 50% and 60% whole bunches this year.” Details of new oak can be gleaned from individual tasting notes.
On the day of my visit, two or three of the barrel samples were reduced, much to Roumier’s surprise, since they had shone brightly just a couple of days before - the caprice of a wine’s élevage. Yet it is clear that Roumier has overseen some sublime 2017s, and not just the 400-odd bottles of Musigny. The star this year is not the Bonnes-Mares but the Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses. Ignore their statuses: these two vie for supremacy each year and I suspect that the Premier Cru might just have the upper hand in 2017. I also adore the Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras, which is often endowed with more complexity and gravitas than Roumier’s Combottes, and the vintage puts a wedge between them in qualitative terms. As usual, you will find two labels under Christophe Roumier’s own name, the Charmes-Chambertin and Ruchottes-Chambertin, both outstanding, now joined by his métayage in Echézeaux shared with Arnaud Mortet. The maiden 2016 was whittled down to just a quarter-size barrel and consequently felt too oaky last year. The 2017 vintage bestows two-and-a-quarter barrels. It is much better, far more balanced and less oppressed by the cooperage – a welcome addition to the range.
Though not every 2017 from Christophe Roumier merits superlatives, as always, what I like is the fact that he translates the vagaries of the growing season. There is nothing pretentious or overly ambitious, nothing self-aggrandizing about Roumier’s wines. Even tasting from barrel, you think how much you’d like to abscond with that bottle and drink it. What else is wine for?
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2016
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2016
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The secondary buds carried very little fruit in 2016, and the new shoots took another three to four weeks to grow, said Christophe Roumier. “But the good, hot summer compressed the differences in ripeness.” Yields varied dramatically, as Roumier’s home village of Chambolle-Musigny was hit hard by the frost. He lost about 50% of his fruit in Musigny and Les Amoureuses, two-thirds in Les Cras, and all of his Bourgogne Rouge and Corton-Charlemagne. His tiny quantity of Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes went into his Chambolle villages.
Roumier started harvesting on September 24, bringing in what he described as “ripe, clean fruit—normal-sized grapes with thick skins”; some parcels were as high as 13% potential alcohol and did not require chaptalization. Roumier told me that he did not change his normal vinification in 2016, except for doing fewer punchdowns than usual. The wines have lowish total acidity but average pHs, Roumier told me, and he believes that, with their generosity and ripe, broad tannins, the ‘16s are built to age.
Roumier described 2015 as “a great vintage with a very good balance between strength and elegance, and the acidity and tannins for good aging capacity.” His only quibble was that some wines are a bit too high in alcohol for his taste. And he also believes that 2015 generally shows a tendency toward reduction, and that the wines are already shutting down in bottle. Like a number of producers I visited this fall and winter, Roumier is now using new corks from Bouchons Trescases (labeled “ND”) that are individually tested for TCA using gas chromatography.
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2015
2023 - 2050
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2015
2024 - 2055
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2015
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The secondary buds carried very little fruit in 2016, and the new shoots took another three to four weeks to grow, said Christophe Roumier. “But the good, hot summer compressed the differences in ripeness.” Yields varied dramatically, as Roumier’s home village of Chambolle-Musigny was hit hard by the frost. He lost about 50% of his fruit in Musigny and Les Amoureuses, two-thirds in Les Cras, and all of his Bourgogne Rouge and Corton-Charlemagne. His tiny quantity of Chambolle-Musigny Les Combottes went into his Chambolle villages.
Roumier started harvesting on September 24, bringing in what he described as “ripe, clean fruit—normal-sized grapes with thick skins”; some parcels were as high as 13% potential alcohol and did not require chaptalization. Roumier told me that he did not change his normal vinification in 2016, except for doing fewer punchdowns than usual. The wines have lowish total acidity but average pHs, Roumier told me, and he believes that, with their generosity and ripe, broad tannins, the ‘16s are built to age.
Roumier described 2015 as “a great vintage with a very good balance between strength and elegance, and the acidity and tannins for good aging capacity.” His only quibble was that some wines are a bit too high in alcohol for his taste. And he also believes that 2015 generally shows a tendency toward reduction, and that the wines are already shutting down in bottle. Like a number of producers I visited this fall and winter, Roumier is now using new corks from Bouchons Trescases (labeled “ND”) that are individually tested for TCA using gas chromatography.
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2015
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Christophe Roumier was a late harvester in 2015, picking between September 10 and 15. He had originally planned for a September 3 start but moved that date back a week because the tannins were not yet ripe; he also wanted to avoid the “hardness of structure” of the 2005s. “The rain that started on the 12th de-stressed the skins without rotting them and was positive for the quality of the wines,” he asserted. The crop was modest in size, with the average yield of just 31 hectoliters per hectare. Incidentally, Roumier noted that vintage 2016 brought his smallest harvest since 1971, as the late April frost hit Chambolle-Musigny hard.
Roumier increased his use of whole-cluster fermentation in 2015. He reduced his number of punchdowns, doing more pumpovers instead, but he maintained the normal length of his cuvaisons. “We had thick skins and big pips in 2015,” said Roumier. “The wines are more about fruit and flesh than minerality. They’re classy wines with an element of power. They’re already complex but I’m sure they will age well and bring more in time. And the dense, velvety tannins make a real difference in 2015.”
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2014
2026 - 2039
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From the outset, Christophe Roumier described 2014 as a fruit-driven vintage with fairly high pHs but fresh acidity, and moderate tannin levels. He bottled the ‘14s at the end of April, after allowing them to settle in stainless steel tanks for two months. When we tasted the wines in November, he thought they were starting to go into a shell. But he was confident that they wouldn’t close much more and that they should drink well early.
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2014
2026 - 2039
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From the outset, Christophe Roumier described 2014 as a fruit-driven vintage with fairly high pHs but fresh acidity, and moderate tannin levels He bottled the ‘14s at the end of April, after allowing them to settle in stainless steel tanks for two months When we tasted the wines in November, he thought they were starting to go into a shell But he was confident that they wouldn’t close much more and that they should drink well early
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2014
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Favorable late-summer weather made a big difference in 2014, said Christophe Roumier, but a heat wave during the last couple days of August and beginning of September exacerbated the problems with Drosophila suzukii. In the end, crop levels were average by the standards of the last 20 years at about 32 hectoliters per hectare for the estate."The berries were big and had more juice than usual," Roumier noted. He started harvesting on September 16, picking with grape sugars in the 12% range and chaptalizing his wines to a maximum of 13%.
The berries contained a lot of seeds, he went on."They didn't reach 100% phenolic ripeness but they offered easy extractability. We didn't punch down like crazy because there was no reason to make extractive wines in a vintage meant to be easygoing." Roumier vinified most of his 2014s with 25% to 35% whole clusters, but two-thirds for the Musigny."It's a fruit-driven vintage to drink before the 2013s, which are more tannic, structured and concentrated," he told me. The pHs in 2014 are in the fairly high 3. 6 range but one tastes the acidity in the wines, Roumier added."It's not a tannic vintage." The wines finished their malolactic fermentations in July and were racked from barrel to barrel about three weeks prior to my November visit.
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2013
2024 - 2038
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Christophe Roumier compared his 2013s to his 1995s, noting that the wines “have more strength than the 2014s and are for longer aging.” He went on: “The 2014s are lighter-bodied and more immediate, while the 2013s are more serious. There was a lot of millerandage in 2013," he went on, "and the wines are quite tannic despite the fact that there were relatively few seeds in the grapes. So it’s all skin tannins.” The malos finished late in what Roumier described as “a malic year.” He vinified most of his 2013s with 25% to 30% whole clusters, “like normal.”
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2013
2025 - 2040
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Christophe Roumier, who benefited in 2013 from a high percentage of thick-skinned small berries from his old, millerandé vines, started harvesting on October 5. He told me he should have begun a few days earlier, as after "a big rain" on October 9 the mold developed quickly. Potential alcohol levels were in the 11.5% to 12% range and Roumier chaptalized by a maximum of 0.8% to 0.9% "to counterbalance the tannins with alcohol." Although he cut back on the number of punchdowns in 2013 due to the small, thick-skinned berries, he still vinified most of his wines with 25% to 30% whole clusters. "All of the tannins in the wines are skin tannins in 2013," he told me. "The seeds were very small and did not give the wines any astringence." In fact, in November he felt that the whole clusters had actually given his wines "less pepper and orange skin" character than in other years. Another outstanding result here in 2013.
00
2012
2022 - 2055
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2012
2026 - 2042
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Christophe Roumier, who is not prone to praising a young vintage without raising caveats, rates 2012 at the same high level as 2010. "Two thousand ten is beautiful and pure," he explained, "while 2012 has a certain touch and substance that I love." This is a splendid set of wines that are likely to be long-lived. "They need a lot of oxygen," says Roumier, who cringed at the thought of restaurants serving the '12s immediately.
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2012
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Christophe Roumier rarely allows himself too much excitement over a vintage before it's safely in bottle, but it was clear in November that he's high on the 2012s.He describes these wines as "richer than the 2010s but also precise; they have spine."He noted that pHs were lower than average and roughly equivalent to those in 2010.Crop levels were low (roughly the same in 2012 and 2013 here), and potential alcohol levels were in the 12.2% to 13% range, with only certain wines requiring chaptalization.He vinified across the board with 25% to 30% whole clusters.Interestingly, Roumier described his 2011s as compact, even austere, with a black fruit character.Most of his colleagues consider their 2011s to be redder and friendlier.
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2012
2027 - 2042
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Christophe Roumier's 2012 are among the highlights of the vintage. As is the case in pretty much every cellar, yields are down sharply, mostly because of poor weather during flowering, which will make these wines even harder to find than normal. Overall, there are some parallels with 2010, although the 2012s have lower acidities and strike me as having a little more overt depth as well. Roumier fans will also want to consider the Charmes and Ruchottes, both of which are made under métayage agreements and sold under the Christophe Roumier label.
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2011
2020 - 2035
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2011
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2011
2021 - 2036
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Christophe Roumier's 2011s are just as gorgeous from bottle as they were from barrel. As was the case throughout the region, ripeness was lower than normal. The fruit came in at about 12% potential alcohol and required light chaptalizations. A good example of the slightly underripe character of the year can be found in the Chambolle villages. In 2011, Roumier used a lower percentage of whole clusters than in other recent vintages. The poor weather, especially during flowering, took with it a good 30-35% of the production.
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2011
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Like a number of his colleagues, Christophe Roumier noted that the 2011 vintage was saved by millerandage, as the conditions of the growing season would not have been able to ripen a fuller crop of grapes. He describes 2011 as "more of a tannic than an acid vintage. The wines have good definition and are not at all rustic. The phenolics were ripe." In fact, Roumier noted that the phenolic ripeness came earlier in 2011 than in 2010, and that the 2011s have more tannins. Roumier destemmed a bit more than usual but did his normal extraction during vinification. He told me that he was surprised to find that the tannins were so ripe. The malos here finished quite late in the context of the vintage: between July and September. Roumier warned me before I started my tasting that the wines needed air, as they were quite reduced and holding a lot of CO2. Another superb result here.
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2010
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2010
2025 - 2050
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The only real problem with Christophe Roumier's 2010s is the production, which was severely compromised by the December 2009 frost and the poor weather of 2010, especially during the flowering. On a more positive note, the wines are marked by their total transparency. Some of the entry-level wines are a bit on the light side, but the best 1er Crus and the Grand Crus are magical. Roumier started picking on September 28. Some of the wines were lightly chaptalized. I will report on the 2009s in our April issue.
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2010
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Christophe Roumier compared his 2010s to his 2002s, adding that they're "a bit deeper and more generous, but with similar acidity and tannins. Or you could describe them as super-2008s." Crop levels were down between 30% and 35% from 2009 levels owing to the poor fruit set and considerable millerandage. He also lost some vines to the December '09 frost "and others didn't produce a crop." He harvested on the late side, beginning on September 28. Roumier did less whole-cluster fermentation than in 2009 despite telling me that the skins in 2010 were thick and healthy: about 10% for the Chambolle villages and up to 50% for the Bonnes-Mares, Amoureuses and Ruchottes-Chambertin. "The very ripe 2009s needed something green," he added, explaining why he made more use of the stems in the earlier vintage.
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2009
2019 - 2039
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It is a fascinating to revisit Christophe Roumier's 2009s from bottle. The lower-end wines are marked by the year to a significantly greater extent than the top wines.
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2009
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2009
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park, New York, in March 2012
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2009
2019 - 2049
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My visit with Christophe Roumier was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Burgundy earlier in the year. The range of 2009s is simply extraordinary, and The 2008s aren't too far behind. Most of The 2009s were in tank, awaiting imminent bottling. Roumier began harvesting on September 12.
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2009
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Christophe Roumier described 2009 as an easy vintage that produced very smooth wines. There was some oidium and mildew in May and June but after mid-July the weather was warm and dry, and the harvest was easy, "with almost no grapes rejected." Still, he added, late harvesters tended to make jammy wines. His 2009s have slightly elevated pHs in the 3.6 to 3.65 range, but Roumier noted that his 2007s and 2006s were nearly as high. He vinified with more whole clusters than usual: 10% in the Chambolle villages, 25% in the Morey and Combottes, 33% in the Cras, 50% in the Charmes, Ruchottes and Amoureuses, 60% in the Bonnes-Mares, and the normal 100% for his tiny lot of Musigny. Roumier told me that 2009 is more like 1990 than 1989, as the berries were smaller than in '89. "The '90s may be more concentrated, but they show more flavors of overripeness than 2009," he explained. He also compared the new vintage with very ripe years like 2005 and 1999 but noted that the 2005s have much higher acidity. Following late malos (most of the secondary fermentations started in June and finished between July and September), Roumier had started racking the 2009s the week before my visit.
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2008
2020 - 2045
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2008
2023 - 2048
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My visit with Christophe Roumier was one of the highlights of the two weeks I spent in Burgundy earlier in the year. The range of 2009s is simply extraordinary, and The 2008s aren't too far behind. Most of The 2009s were in tank, awaiting imminent bottling. Roumier began harvesting on September 12.
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2008
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2008
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Lousy weather during the veraison caused the color change of the grapes to last into the beginning of September, said Roumier, "but then 18 days of a cold and dry north wind saved the harvest. We had a combination of real ripening and dehydration." There was less rot in 2008 than in 2007 but very irregular ripening, even within some clusters, which necessitated a severe sorting of the fruit, he added. The wines have accurate flavors, good minerality and crisp fruit, said Roumier, but they taste thinner than the 2007s, whose opulence is currently hiding their underlying acidity and whose darker, riper fruit flavors "obliterate their minerality." At the end of our tasting Roumier told me he believes other winemakers made 2008s as good as his, "but richer." I think he was being overly modest, as his wines are among the standouts of the vintage.
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2007
2019 - 2035
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2007
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Lousy weather during the veraison caused the color change of the grapes to last into the beginning of September, said Roumier, "but then 18 days of a cold and dry north wind saved the harvest. We had a combination of real ripening and dehydration." There was less rot in 2008 than in 2007 but very irregular ripening, even within some clusters, which necessitated a severe sorting of the fruit, he added. The wines have accurate flavors, good minerality and crisp fruit, said Roumier, but they taste thinner than the 2007s, whose opulence is currently hiding their underlying acidity and whose darker, riper fruit flavors "obliterate their minerality." At the end of our tasting Roumier told me he believes other winemakers made 2008s as good as his, "but richer." I think he was being overly modest, as his wines are among the standouts of the vintage.
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2007
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In November, Roumier told me he prefers his 2007s to his 2006s owing to their "great mouth feel and density," but he admitted that most of his neighbors preferred 2006. In fact, pHs in 2007 are higher than those of 2006 and the wines are wonderfully fleshy and rich. They showed very well in November, even if Roumier felt that most of them were reduced or fermentative when I tasted them-or both. He started picking on September 3 and had 25% less volume than the previous year. Roumier thought the '06s were a bit thin in barrel and did not deserve a late bottling. He kept the wines on their lees as long as possible, and only racked for the bottling. Today, he notes, the wines are gaining density in the bottle and are showing more tannins than they did in barrel. "In fact, without those minerally tannins the wines might come across as a bit flabby," he concluded.
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2006
2024 - 2038
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2006
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In November, Roumier told me he prefers his 2007s to his 2006s owing to their "great mouth feel and density," but he admitted that most of his neighbors preferred 2006. In fact, pHs in 2007 are higher than those of 2006 and the wines are wonderfully fleshy and rich. They showed very well in November, even if Roumier felt that most of them were reduced or fermentative when I tasted them-or both. He started picking on September 3 and had 25% less volume than the previous year. Roumier thought the '06s were a bit thin in barrel and did not deserve a late bottling. He kept the wines on their lees as long as possible, and only racked for the bottling. Today, he notes, the wines are gaining density in the bottle and are showing more tannins than they did in barrel. "In fact, without those minerally tannins the wines might come across as a bit flabby," he concluded.
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2006
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Christophe Roumier, normally tougher on his wines than his clients are, describes his 2006s as "thinner in body than the 2005s but with very fresh fruit." Strict selection needed to be done in both the vines and on the sorting table due to the rot that appeared in the plots that experienced hail, he told me. In fact, the parcels affected by hail (parts of his Chambolle village, Clos de la Bussiere and Charmes-Chambertin) may have been a bit less ripe, but "it was not a big difference." Roumier noted that grape sugars in 2006 were in the vicinity of 12.5%, which he described as good; acidity levels in the grapes were average, though there was less malic than in '07 or '04. He prefers 2006 to 2004 for its charm. "The wines are more pleasurable, while 2004 is more serious," he explained. "And there's a big difference as you go up the hierarchy of vineyards in 2006," Roumier added. "At the cru level especially, the'06s have very good ageability." Roumier's top 2005 cuvees are magical; he ranks this superb vintage with his '02s and '99s. His scarce Musigny, of which a number of his luckiest private clients could snare a bottle or two, left the cellar at 200 Euros and was spotted on the Internet in late fall at well over $5,000. His top four 2005 bottlings are all stunning.
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2005
2024 - 2060
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2005
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Christophe Roumier, normally tougher on his wines than his clients are, describes his 2006s as "thinner in body than the 2005s but with very fresh fruit." Strict selection needed to be done in both the vines and on the sorting table due to the rot that appeared in the plots that experienced hail, he told me. In fact, the parcels affected by hail (parts of his Chambolle village, Clos de la Bussiere and Charmes-Chambertin) may have been a bit less ripe, but "it was not a big difference." Roumier noted that grape sugars in 2006 were in the vicinity of 12.5%, which he described as good; acidity levels in the grapes were average, though there was less malic than in '07 or '04. He prefers 2006 to 2004 for its charm. "The wines are more pleasurable, while 2004 is more serious," he explained. "And there's a big difference as you go up the hierarchy of vineyards in 2006," Roumier added. "At the cru level especially, the'06s have very good ageability." Roumier's top 2005 cuvees are magical; he ranks this superb vintage with his '02s and '99s. His scarce Musigny, of which a number of his luckiest private clients could snare a bottle or two, left the cellar at 200 Euros and was spotted on the Internet in late fall at well over $5,000. His top four 2005 bottlings are all stunning.
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2005
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"What a vintner can only dream of," said Christophe Roumier about the 2005 growing season and harvest. "An ideal season and easy-to-make wines. In 2005 we got a rare combination of ripeness with freshness. The look of the crop was like 1990. The berries were small and loose and detached easily. The fruit didn't have the same extreme ripeness as 1990 but sugars were high and no chaptalization was necessary." As in 1999, 1996 and 1990, there were no disease pressures in 2005, Roumier added. Roumier vinified with 20% to 25% whole clusters, as the stems were ripe and healthy, and the slower release of sugar by the unbroken berries offered the advantage of extending the fermentations. Roumier feels that most 2005s will be attractive young. He describes the vintage as a combination of 2002, in terms of quality of tannins and acidity, and 1999, for its richness, flesh and blacker fruit flavors. "The 2002s are radically minerally and demanding," he told me, "whereas the 2005s hide nothing; they may always be tasteable but they will age for a long time." Incidentally, the basic Bourgogne here is a winner in 2005. (Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY) Also recommended: Chambolle-Musigny (86).
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2004
2020 - 2022
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2004
2018 - 2024
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2004
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This wine was tasted at the La Paulee Gala Dinner in San Francisco, 2008.
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2004
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"What a vintner can only dream of," said Christophe Roumier about the 2005 growing season and harvest. "An ideal season and easy-to-make wines. In 2005 we got a rare combination of ripeness with freshness. The look of the crop was like 1990. The berries were small and loose and detached easily. The fruit didn't have the same extreme ripeness as 1990 but sugars were high and no chaptalization was necessary." As in 1999, 1996 and 1990, there were no disease pressures in 2005, Roumier added. Roumier vinified with 20% to 25% whole clusters, as the stems were ripe and healthy, and the slower release of sugar by the unbroken berries offered the advantage of extending the fermentations. Roumier feels that most 2005s will be attractive young. He describes the vintage as a combination of 2002, in terms of quality of tannins and acidity, and 1999, for its richness, flesh and blacker fruit flavors. "The 2002s are radically minerally and demanding," he told me, "whereas the 2005s hide nothing; they may always be tasteable but they will age for a long time." Incidentally, the basic Bourgogne here is a winner in 2005. (Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, New York, NY) Also recommended: Chambolle-Musigny (86).
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2004
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Christophe Roumier told me he dropped fruit several times during the summer of '04, not due to powdery mildew but more a result of the botrytis that set in during a cool, rainy August. He eliminated hail-affected grapes again after the August 23 storm to help the rest get ripe, then selected again during the harvest and, finally, on a sorting table. "We began with a huge crop but finished with an average one," he said. Luckily, a dry, sunny September gave us ripe tannins with good sugars, even if the skins weren't thick. The acids were still a bit higher than average, but lower than those of 2002. "Following unusually slow malos due to what he described as almost double the normal amount of malic acidity, Roumier racked his 2004s in September.
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2003
2020 - 2032
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2003
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Christophe Roumier told me he dropped fruit several times during the summer of '04, not due to powdery mildew but more a result of the botrytis that set in during a cool, rainy August. He eliminated hail-affected grapes again after the August 23 storm to help the rest get ripe, then selected again during the harvest and, finally, on a sorting table. "We began with a huge crop but finished with an average one," he said. Luckily, a dry, sunny September gave us ripe tannins with good sugars, even if the skins weren't thick. The acids were still a bit higher than average, but lower than those of 2002. "Following unusually slow malos due to what he described as almost double the normal amount of malic acidity, Roumier racked his 2004s in September.
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2003
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"Two thousand three is a unique vintage," says the always tactful Christophe Roumier."My main concern is how the wines will age.If this is a ready-to-drink vintage in the style of California, then we will have some disappointed customers.But it's also possible that the wines will age like the 1990s or even the 1959s, a low-acid group of wines."On the plus side, Roumier noted that the 2003s have a tendency toward reduction, rather than oxidation, and he predicted that they might well "compact" after the bottling, which he planned to do at the normal time.Roumier harvested beginning on August 28.He told me that some rain between August 18 and 20 helped the canopy and resulted in riper fruit and, more important, riper tannins."The skins were not ripe on August 15 even if the sugars were there," he explained. Roumier acidified all but his Bourgogne prior to fermentation.At the time of my visit, he was still wondering if he should have added a bit more acidity. The overall estate production ranged between 16 and 23 hectoliters per hectare in 2003.Roumier noted that he had less incidence of sunburn in 2003 than in 1998.
00
2002
2018 - 2040
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2002
2016 - 2025
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2002
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"Two thousand three is a unique vintage," says the always tactful Christophe Roumier."My main concern is how the wines will age.If this is a ready-to-drink vintage in the style of California, then we will have some disappointed customers.But it's also possible that the wines will age like the 1990s or even the 1959s, a low-acid group of wines."On the plus side, Roumier noted that the 2003s have a tendency toward reduction, rather than oxidation, and he predicted that they might well "compact" after the bottling, which he planned to do at the normal time.Roumier harvested beginning on August 28.He told me that some rain between August 18 and 20 helped the canopy and resulted in riper fruit and, more important, riper tannins."The skins were not ripe on August 15 even if the sugars were there," he explained. Roumier acidified all but his Bourgogne prior to fermentation.At the time of my visit, he was still wondering if he should have added a bit more acidity. The overall estate production ranged between 16 and 23 hectoliters per hectare in 2003.Roumier noted that he had less incidence of sunburn in 2003 than in 1998.
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2002
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The young 2002s are more seductive than the 2001s," says Christophe Roumier. The year combines very good sugars, tannins and acidity to give a balanced taste.The wines may seem gentle and easy but they have a lot of dimension and hidden power, and they are balanced for the long term.They remind me of the '78s, and also of the '95s but with riper tannins." Sugar levels in 2002 were consistently in the 13% to 13.4% range, and the wines were not chaptalized, whereas in 2001 Roumier generally chaptalized between 0.5 and 1.0 degree. He went on to say that the 2001s are more concentrated in terms of extract, and that the tannins are the most important structural element of these wines, while in the 2002s the key is the acids, as the percentage ofthe more stable tartaric acidity was high.The 2001s show darker fruits and more spice character, he added, while the 2002s are characterized by red fruits.Roumier is not convinced that his 2001s will last as long as his 2002s.
00
2001
2023 - 2045
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00
2001
2018 - 2040
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2001
2017 - 2026
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2001
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The young 2002s are more seductive than the 2001s," says Christophe Roumier. The year combines very good sugars, tannins and acidity to give a balanced taste.The wines may seem gentle and easy but they have a lot of dimension and hidden power, and they are balanced for the long term.They remind me of the '78s, and also of the '95s but with riper tannins." Sugar levels in 2002 were consistently in the 13% to 13.4% range, and the wines were not chaptalized, whereas in 2001 Roumier generally chaptalized between 0.5 and 1.0 degree. He went on to say that the 2001s are more concentrated in terms of extract, and that the tannins are the most important structural element of these wines, while in the 2002s the key is the acids, as the percentage ofthe more stable tartaric acidity was high.The 2001s show darker fruits and more spice character, he added, while the 2002s are characterized by red fruits.Roumier is not convinced that his 2001s will last as long as his 2002s.
00
2001
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The ripeness here in 2001 really occurred at the last minute, with the sugars generally reaching 11%-11.5% and the ripest fruit coming in at 12.8%, reported Christophe Roumier. We had to live with a range of ripeness even within the bunches," he noted. The sorting, Roumier added, was to eliminate underripe rather than rotten grapes. The 2001 vintage will make firm wines with solid tannic structure and good aging potential, "a bit like those of 1993 but with more richness. The '01s show more red fruits than the '93s at the same stage but perhaps a bit less spice and flowers." Roumier, incidentally, considers his 2000s to be lighter than his 1997s. The awful weather in July of 2000 was responsible for the thinner skins of the vintage, and the less important tannic structure of the wines. On the other hand, the 2000s retained better acidity than the '97s, added Roumier.
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2000
2018 - 2030
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2000
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The ripeness here in 2001 really occurred at the last minute, with the sugars generally reaching 11%-11.5% and the ripest fruit coming in at 12.8%, reported Christophe Roumier. We had to live with a range of ripeness even within the bunches," he noted. The sorting, Roumier added, was to eliminate underripe rather than rotten grapes. The 2001 vintage will make firm wines with solid tannic structure and good aging potential, "a bit like those of 1993 but with more richness. The '01s show more red fruits than the '93s at the same stage but perhaps a bit less spice and flowers." Roumier, incidentally, considers his 2000s to be lighter than his 1997s. The awful weather in July of 2000 was responsible for the thinner skins of the vintage, and the less important tannic structure of the wines. On the other hand, the 2000s retained better acidity than the '97s, added Roumier.
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2000
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Roumier describes 2000 as a lighter-styled vintage, but light in a good way: soft, silky, appealing . . . very Burgundy. The thin-skinned grapes, said Roumier, did not possess a lot of potential in terms of tannin and color. There was a bit of rot in some parcels in 2000, but the affected grapes were very easy to remove, Roumier added. Virtually all the parcels came in with 13% or more natural sugar "but without the corresponding structure one would expect from grapes so ripe." So even though production here was about 20% lower than that of '99, the '00s are less concentrated and structured wines. Roumier did a bit more extraction by extending the maceration longer after the fermentations ended. His 2000s have also benefitted from late malos; following a first racking in September, they were still on their fine lees in early November and thus won't be bottled as early as Roumier initially planned. Compared to the best recent vintages from this top producer, the 2000s just miss on verve and complexity of aromas. But the wines will offer substantial early pleasure, and the estate top three or four cuvees are impressive in the context of the vintage. Roumier's '99s have turned out splendidly.
00
1999
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1999
2027 - 2060
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1999
2020 - 2055
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1999
2020 - 2040
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1999
2018 - 2037
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
00
1999
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Roumier describes 2000 as a lighter-styled vintage, but light in a good way: soft, silky, appealing . . . very Burgundy. The thin-skinned grapes, said Roumier, did not possess a lot of potential in terms of tannin and color. There was a bit of rot in some parcels in 2000, but the affected grapes were very easy to remove, Roumier added. Virtually all the parcels came in with 13% or more natural sugar "but without the corresponding structure one would expect from grapes so ripe." So even though production here was about 20% lower than that of '99, the '00s are less concentrated and structured wines. Roumier did a bit more extraction by extending the maceration longer after the fermentations ended. His 2000s have also benefitted from late malos; following a first racking in September, they were still on their fine lees in early November and thus won't be bottled as early as Roumier initially planned. Compared to the best recent vintages from this top producer, the 2000s just miss on verve and complexity of aromas. But the wines will offer substantial early pleasure, and the estate top three or four cuvees are impressive in the context of the vintage. Roumier's '99s have turned out splendidly.
00
1999
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Following the rainfall after the ban de vendange for the grand crus, Roumier started harvesting on the 23rd of September, then resumed again the next day after another evening of rain. At that point, he quickly adjusted his strategy, bringing in his best vineyards immediately. "There was no evidence of dilution until Sunday afternoon," said Roumier. "And even then we lost acidity rather than sugars. The fruit picked late Sunday and Monday had higher pH, and it was necessary to do a saignee The acids are not strong in the '99s, but they are actually higher than in the '98s, and the wines taste fresh." Roumier, who does not claim that either '99 or '98 is as good as his '96 or '95 ('96 is his favorite recent vintage), did fairly serious extraction following the '99 harvest because he felt the high polyphenol levels could support such an approach. "I thought the wines were too tannic just after the vinification, but after the malolactic fermentations they're rich and mellow." Roumier structured, ageworthy '98s have turned out very well. "The '99s are more elegant and approachable wines," he notes, "while the '98s show more primary fruit; they're tougher but not hard. But '96 is the vintage that will last 30 years or more."
00
1998
2018 - 2045
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00
1998
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Following the rainfall after the ban de vendange for the grand crus, Roumier started harvesting on the 23rd of September, then resumed again the next day after another evening of rain. At that point, he quickly adjusted his strategy, bringing in his best vineyards immediately. "There was no evidence of dilution until Sunday afternoon," said Roumier. "And even then we lost acidity rather than sugars. The fruit picked late Sunday and Monday had higher pH, and it was necessary to do a saignee The acids are not strong in the '99s, but they are actually higher than in the '98s, and the wines taste fresh." Roumier, who does not claim that either '99 or '98 is as good as his '96 or '95 ('96 is his favorite recent vintage), did fairly serious extraction following the '99 harvest because he felt the high polyphenol levels could support such an approach. "I thought the wines were too tannic just after the vinification, but after the malolactic fermentations they're rich and mellow." Roumier structured, ageworthy '98s have turned out very well. "The '99s are more elegant and approachable wines," he notes, "while the '98s show more primary fruit; they're tougher but not hard. But '96 is the vintage that will last 30 years or more."
00
1998
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Christophe Roumier has been on a roll in recent vintages, far outperforming the Burgundy average in every vintage since 1992. Roumier began harvesting on the 23rd in 1998, picking his crus in three intense days of good weather, with ripe skins and good ripe fruit flavors. Fruit picked later, after another round of rain, had to be strictly sorted due to rapidly spreading rot. All of the '98 fruit was destemmed. The estate-wide yield was just 24 hectoliters per hectare, according to Roumier-or about half as high as that of 1999. Potential alcohols in '98 were in the healthy 12.0%-12.8% range, said Roumier, pHs were about average, and total acidity was on the low side, as in '97. But less acidification was needed for the '98s than in the previous year. Roumier planned to begin bottling in January. In recent years, Roumier has maintained the temperature of fermentation at around 32oC rather than bringing it down to 28o. The higher temperature, he explains, helps to polymerize the tannins and avoid any bitterness in the finished wines.
00
1997
2018 - 2030
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00
1997
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Christophe Roumier has been on a roll in recent vintages, far outperforming the Burgundy average in every vintage since 1992. Roumier began harvesting on the 23rd in 1998, picking his crus in three intense days of good weather, with ripe skins and good ripe fruit flavors. Fruit picked later, after another round of rain, had to be strictly sorted due to rapidly spreading rot. All of the '98 fruit was destemmed. The estate-wide yield was just 24 hectoliters per hectare, according to Roumier-or about half as high as that of 1999. Potential alcohols in '98 were in the healthy 12.0%-12.8% range, said Roumier, pHs were about average, and total acidity was on the low side, as in '97. But less acidification was needed for the '98s than in the previous year. Roumier planned to begin bottling in January. In recent years, Roumier has maintained the temperature of fermentation at around 32oC rather than bringing it down to 28o. The higher temperature, he explains, helps to polymerize the tannins and avoid any bitterness in the finished wines.
00
1997
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Christophe Roumier describes both '96 and '95 as vintages high in acidity. "The '96s are richer in fruit, tactile and minerally," he explains, "more like the classic model of Burgundy. But if you fear acidity, you won't like the '96 vintage." Nineteen ninety five, in comparison, is "more aromatically complex and baroque, similar to 1978." Roumier rates the two vintages as roughly equal. Nineteen ninety seven, which featured grape sugars as high as 13.9% at this estate, produced wines with ripe, soft tannins and low acidity; no chaptalization was necessary but some cuvees were acidified. Estate wide yields averaged just 32 hectoliters per hectare. In structure, '97 resembles '85, says Roumier, who noted that the '85s may have been bottled a bit late. At the time of my early November visit, Roumier expected to bottle his '97s by the end of December, the earliest ever at this estate. These wines do not offer the sappy, urgent quality or the razor sharp flavor definition of the two earlier vintages here, but then few Burgundies do.
00
1996
2018 - 2030
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00
1996
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Christophe Roumier describes both '96 and '95 as vintages high in acidity. "The '96s are richer in fruit, tactile and minerally," he explains, "more like the classic model of Burgundy. But if you fear acidity, you won't like the '96 vintage." Nineteen ninety five, in comparison, is "more aromatically complex and baroque, similar to 1978." Roumier rates the two vintages as roughly equal. Nineteen ninety seven, which featured grape sugars as high as 13.9% at this estate, produced wines with ripe, soft tannins and low acidity; no chaptalization was necessary but some cuvees were acidified. Estate wide yields averaged just 32 hectoliters per hectare. In structure, '97 resembles '85, says Roumier, who noted that the '85s may have been bottled a bit late. At the time of my early November visit, Roumier expected to bottle his '97s by the end of December, the earliest ever at this estate. These wines do not offer the sappy, urgent quality or the razor sharp flavor definition of the two earlier vintages here, but then few Burgundies do.
00
1996
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Christophe Roumier plans to bottle his '96s early to preserve their fruit, but is quick to point out that this rather low-pH vintage has produced very stable wines. He believes that these wines, despite showing lovely sweetness in November, will shut down and become harder after the bottling-will become, in short, more and more like the '95s, which are quite closed now following bottling last April. 1995, says Roumier, produced more subtle, complex, vibrant wines, with more floral aromatics. The 1996s, in comparison, are more fruity and a bit more obvious, and show conspicuous texture early on. Across the Cote d'Or, adds Roumier, there is a direct relationship between yields in '96 and the structure and texture of the resulting wines. It all a matter of balance, Roumier explains: wines from high yields tend to be hollower in the middle, without the material and extract to buffer the relatively strong tannins of the vintage (polyphenol levels were generally high in '96, Roumier notes). As a result, many of these wines show dry tannins, while those from lower crop levels carry their tannins more gracefully.
00
1995
2018 - 2045
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00
1995
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Christophe Roumier plans to bottle his '96s early to preserve their fruit, but is quick to point out that this rather low-pH vintage has produced very stable wines. He believes that these wines, despite showing lovely sweetness in November, will shut down and become harder after the bottling-will become, in short, more and more like the '95s, which are quite closed now following bottling last April. 1995, says Roumier, produced more subtle, complex, vibrant wines, with more floral aromatics. The 1996s, in comparison, are more fruity and a bit more obvious, and show conspicuous texture early on. Across the Cote d'Or, adds Roumier, there is a direct relationship between yields in '96 and the structure and texture of the resulting wines. It all a matter of balance, Roumier explains: wines from high yields tend to be hollower in the middle, without the material and extract to buffer the relatively strong tannins of the vintage (polyphenol levels were generally high in '96, Roumier notes). As a result, many of these wines show dry tannins, while those from lower crop levels carry their tannins more gracefully.
00
1994
2018 - 2025
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00
1993
2018 - 2035
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00
1992
2018 - 2025
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1991
2018 - 2035
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00
1990
2018 - 2040
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1990
2017 - 2027
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Held this past February, La Festa del Barolo brought together producers, sommeliers and wine lovers from around the world for a memorable weekend of wine, food and conversation. Guests shared an unreal number of rare and collectible bottles at the Gala Dinner, while the 2012 Barolo Masterclass provided a great opportunity for attendees to taste new releases while hearing directly from the growers in an intimate and highly interactive setting. Del Posto proprietors Mario Batali, Joe Bastianich, Lidia Bastianich and their team pulled out all the stops to help make La Festa del Barolo a great success. Jeff Porter, Wine Director for the Batali & Bastianich group, and a group of this country’s top sommeliers did an exceptional job with wine service at all three events.
00
1990
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This wine was tasted backstage at La Paulée.
00
1989
2018 - 2025
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1988
2022 - 2040
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1988
2018 - 2038
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1986
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1986
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée de New York, 2007.
00
1985
2018 - 2038
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1985
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1985
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted backstage at La Paulée.
00
1985
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted during the La Paulee Gala Dinner in New York City, 2009.
00
1985
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée de New York, 2007.
00
1983
2019 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1983
2018 - 2023
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1983
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Bar Boulud in May, 2014.
00
1983
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted at the La Paulee Gala Dinner in San Francisco, 2008.
00
1982
2018 - 2021
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1980
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1979
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée de New York, 2007.
00
1978
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1978
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1977
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1976
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1971
2018 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1970
2018 - 2022
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1969
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1962
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This wine was tasted backstage at La Paulée.
00
1959
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1955
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1945
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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