2014 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru

Isabelle Raveneau greeted me at the hottest address in Chablis. Literally. Uncharacteristically, for 2024, the sun was beating down when I rang the doorbell. As usual, this was a comprehensive tasting of two vintages, the 2022s bottled in April and the 2023s in barrel.

“Twenty-two is a very concentrated vintage. It is a ‘new classic’ in a way. Previously, it would have been a vintage like 2007 or 2014, more saline, but new classics are more like 2022. The 2023 vintage is less concentrated as the yield is almost twice the previous year. In 2022, the berries had less juice, whereas in 2023, we had good flowering and more rain, so berries were more gorged. They also have thinner skins. We had cooler weather in August, so the berries took a while to complete véraison. The end of August was sunny and almost too warm in some places, but as we had so much rain before, it didn't matter. We started the picking around 12 or 13 September after the heat wave. We sorted a lot as some berries were acetic. The amount of juice was almost double, so we had yields between 65 and 70hl/ha. Their thinner skins meant that they were easier to extract.”

Raveneau’s 2022s are broadly unaltered from last year’s banded scores, the Les Clos and Blanchots tussling for supremacy. Their Premier Crus are extremely consistent, though perhaps Les Butteaux represents the best value. Still, the price hikes I see in many restaurants will erase that difference. Honestly, it’s probably cheaper to travel to Chablis and order a bottle at a restaurant! Like other comparisons of the two vintages, the 2023s don’t quite reach the same pinnacles, but, hey, this is Raveneau, so the Valmur is exceptional, and Montée de Tonnerre is very enticing.

Isabelle Raveneau greeted me at the hottest address in Chablis. Literally. Uncharacteristically, for 2024, the sun was beating down when I rang the doorbell. As usual, this was a comprehensive tasting of two vintages, the 2022s bottled in April and the 2023s in barrel.

“Twenty-two is a very concentrated vintage. It is a ‘new classic’ in a way. Previously, it would have been a vintage like 2007 or 2014, more saline, but new classics are more like 2022. The 2023 vintage is less concentrated as the yield is almost twice the previous year. In 2022, the berries had less juice, whereas in 2023, we had good flowering and more rain, so berries were more gorged. They also have thinner skins. We had cooler weather in August, so the berries took a while to complete véraison. The end of August was sunny and almost too warm in some places, but as we had so much rain before, it didn't matter. We started the picking around 12 or 13 September after the heat wave. We sorted a lot as some berries were acetic. The amount of juice was almost double, so we had yields between 65 and 70hl/ha. Their thinner skins meant that they were easier to extract.”

Raveneau’s 2022s are broadly unaltered from last year’s banded scores, the Les Clos and Blanchots tussling for supremacy. Their Premier Crus are extremely consistent, though perhaps Les Butteaux represents the best value. Still, the price hikes I see in many restaurants will erase that difference. Honestly, it’s probably cheaper to travel to Chablis and order a bottle at a restaurant! Like other comparisons of the two vintages, the 2023s don’t quite reach the same pinnacles, but, hey, this is Raveneau, so the Valmur is exceptional, and Montée de Tonnerre is very enticing.

Isabelle Raveneau was on hand to guide me through the Domaine's 2022s in barrel and a selection of 2021s in bottle. As usual, she had prepared a ‘table for one’ so that I could sit and type comfortably. “For us, 2022 was nothing special - everything went smoothly,” she tells me, which must have come as a relief after the tumult throughout the previous season. “The only thing was the lack of rain during the summer. We were expecting to pick very early, but the lack of water stopped grape maturity. We started picking quite early on September 1. The yields are normal, but I found the concentration of sugar and acidity interesting, similar to 2020, when we began on August 28. The berries were really healthy [in 2022], but there was not a lot of juice in the press. We decided to keep the same pressing levels as we didn’t want to extract too much bitterness. We just wanted nice juice. I didn’t buy more barrels than usual and reused some that were empty for six months and kept in a humid environment, fermenting inside them so that they weren’t empty for too long. The wines that fermented in tank were left to age there, so I used the same amount of barrels. The alcohol levels are between 12.5% and 13.0%.” With that, she laments that she has to forego a summer vacation as she is rebuilding her house. She admits delight in demolishing walls, perhaps getting rid of any frustration at seeing the eyewatering sums that her wines sell for on the secondary market. Take a cursory glance at restaurant lists in Chablis to see how reasonable ex-cellar tariffs are. One thing she cannot be frustrated about is the caliber of their 2022s. These are two strong vintages for Raveneau, perhaps the Les Vaillons and Montée de Tonnerre transcending their terroirs. Their 2022s have real depth and texture; they’re not steely or linear, which has never been their style. But they are imbued with genuine complexity with subtle traces of exotic fruit that do not detract from their typicité and have the propensity to mature magnificently in bottle. I am inclined to suggest that their 2021s might mature better than their 2022s…we will see.

Isabelle Raveneau was on hand to guide me through the Domaine's 2022s in barrel and a selection of 2021s in bottle. As usual, she had prepared a ‘table for one’ so that I could sit and type comfortably. “For us, 2022 was nothing special - everything went smoothly,” she tells me, which must have come as a relief after the tumult throughout the previous season. “The only thing was the lack of rain during the summer. We were expecting to pick very early, but the lack of water stopped grape maturity. We started picking quite early on September 1. The yields are normal, but I found the concentration of sugar and acidity interesting, similar to 2020, when we began on August 28. The berries were really healthy [in 2022], but there was not a lot of juice in the press. We decided to keep the same pressing levels as we didn’t want to extract too much bitterness. We just wanted nice juice. I didn’t buy more barrels than usual and reused some that were empty for six months and kept in a humid environment, fermenting inside them so that they weren’t empty for too long. The wines that fermented in tank were left to age there, so I used the same amount of barrels. The alcohol levels are between 12.5% and 13.0%.” With that, she laments that she has to forego a summer vacation as she is rebuilding her house. She admits delight in demolishing walls, perhaps getting rid of any frustration at seeing the eyewatering sums that her wines sell for on the secondary market. Take a cursory glance at restaurant lists in Chablis to see how reasonable ex-cellar tariffs are. One thing she cannot be frustrated about is the caliber of their 2022s. These are two strong vintages for Raveneau, perhaps the Les Vaillons and Montée de Tonnerre transcending their terroirs. Their 2022s have real depth and texture; they’re not steely or linear, which has never been their style. But they are imbued with genuine complexity with subtle traces of exotic fruit that do not detract from their typicité and have the propensity to mature magnificently in bottle. I am inclined to suggest that their 2021s might mature better than their 2022s…we will see.

"Like everyone else in 2021 we had problems with the spring frost when we lost 35-40%,” Isabelle Raveneau told me, once I had overcome the obstacle course outside their office, groundwork for a cobbled new road outside the new Cité du Vin center. “When we prune areas that are prone to frost, we do it in two stages just in case. It remained cold and humid during the summer with a lot of rain before harvest. We just kept losing crop throughout the season. At the end, we are 50% down in average, but in some places it's 75% and others 20-25%. Petit Chablis was hit hard as it is on the plateau. For the Chablis Village that is just behind Montmains, it was OK, but Vaillons and Les Butteaux were pretty badly affected. We started picking on 21 September as there was high rot pressure. The vinification was normal, and we had to chaptalize by around half a degree, so they will end up at around 12.5%. Otherwise, we made sure we kept the fine lees after the first racking. The wines are due to be bottled next spring.” Asking how she interprets the style of 2021, she answers: “Maybe it is back to an eighties style with less sugar and slightly higher acidity, but because of the rain, it’s not really acidic. But it is completely different from 2019 and 2020 when we had hot and dry summers.”

Isabelle Raveneau began with a lament for the 2021 vintage, not the first that I had heard during my travels. “Flowering did not go well in 2021, likewise the frosts,” she said. “We have lost around 60%, even 80% in some places. You never know what that figure will be.” As is customary, I tasted the complete range of the latest vintage (2019 this year), in addition to the 2020 vintage in barrel. “The 2020 season started really early in terms of budding,” she continued. “It was a nice spring, and dry in the summer. We started picking on August 28 . We were happy with the size of harvest, a decent crop between 45 and 50hl/ha, just a little smaller than 2018. As the crop was larger than 2019, there is a crispness, and while it’s not classic Chablis, it is more classic than 2019. The 2020 is very drinkable, but such a dense vintage compared to 2019. The 2019 is more powerful than the 2020, since in 2019 there was half the normal crop due to the frost and the hot, dry summer – we lost a lot of sunburned berries. We started the harvest in early September. The wines are more powerful and concentrated, and also higher in alcohol compared to 2020. I find that there is more oak influence on the 2019s because of the smaller crop. The idea is not to flavor the wines, rather just to slowly oxidize them during the élevage.”

Isabelle Raveneau began with a lament for the 2021 vintage, not the first that I had heard during my travels. “Flowering did not go well in 2021, likewise the frosts,” she said. “We have lost around 60%, even 80% in some places. You never know what that figure will be.” As is customary, I tasted the complete range of the latest vintage (2019 this year), in addition to the 2020 vintage in barrel. “The 2020 season started really early in terms of budding,” she continued. “It was a nice spring, and dry in the summer. We started picking on August 28 . We were happy with the size of harvest, a decent crop between 45 and 50hl/ha, just a little smaller than 2018. As the crop was larger than 2019, there is a crispness, and while it’s not classic Chablis, it is more classic than 2019. The 2020 is very drinkable, but such a dense vintage compared to 2019. The 2019 is more powerful than the 2020, since in 2019 there was half the normal crop due to the frost and the hot, dry summer – we lost a lot of sunburned berries. We started the harvest in early September. The wines are more powerful and concentrated, and also higher in alcohol compared to 2020. I find that there is more oak influence on the 2019s because of the smaller crop. The idea is not to flavor the wines, rather just to slowly oxidize them during the élevage.”

If you could choose your first winery visit after lockdown, what would you choose? Mine turned out to be Domaine François Raveneau, one that I suspect many others might pick since they are widely seen as the leading producer in Chablis. Isabelle Raveneau, as chirpy and chatty as ever, was on hand to guide me through their complete range of 2019s plus some 2018s that were bottled in May down in their barrel cellar.

I asked her about the harvest in 2018, in particular, whether she had encountered much difficulty in recruiting able hands. “We had a small concern about harvesting,” she told me. “We have phoned and registered 20 pickers. I am more concerned about the safety measures, for example, when and where we are going to eat. The 2018 vintage was picked from 30 August and 10 September for 2019. The 2018 vintage is twice the size of 2019 and completely different. It took about seven days to pick. The yields [in 2018] are higher so you don’t have the same concentration.” Isabelle told me that it was the first time that the domaine had ever done VCI, when authorities permitted producers to pick 10hL/ha above the permitted yield.

I wanted to drill down further with regard to her perception of the 2019 growing season. “The 2019 is very different to 2018,” she answered. “There was a cold spring with some localized frost followed by cool weather. The vines had a hard time growing and even during flowering, it was quite cold. Then we had a hot June and dry summer generally. There was a little rain before harvesting which saved the yield, though it remained small due to the earlier growing cycle. The acidity is slightly higher than 2018 and a lot more concentrated. Yields were half that of 2018.”

Domaine Raveneau is not immune to the influence of the growing seasons and like the rest of Chablis, juxtaposing the 2018 against 2019, I concur with Isabelle Raveneau that the latter have better acidity levels, concentration and more terroir expression. As such, these must be reflected in my scores, however, it would be disingenuous to suggest that their 2018s, good as they are, exist on the same quality level as either the 2019, or previous vintages such as 2014 or 2017. There is much to savor in 2019, right from their Petit Chablis up to their clutch of Grand Crus. Standouts? An excellent Chablis Village for starters, a fabulous and seductive Chablis Vaillons, a slightly nutty Montée de Tonnerre and a gorgeous marine-influenced La Fôret. This is one example where I do find that their Grand Crus are a tangible step up from the Premier Crus. Their Les Clos is a candidate for Chablis of the vintage thanks to both its uncommon poise and pixelation.

If you could choose your first winery visit after lockdown, what would you choose? Mine turned out to be Domaine François Raveneau, one that I suspect many others might pick since they are widely seen as the leading producer in Chablis. Isabelle Raveneau, as chirpy and chatty as ever, was on hand to guide me through their complete range of 2019s plus some 2018s that were bottled in May down in their barrel cellar.

I asked her about the harvest in 2018, in particular, whether she had encountered much difficulty in recruiting able hands. “We had a small concern about harvesting,” she told me. “We have phoned and registered 20 pickers. I am more concerned about the safety measures, for example, when and where we are going to eat. The 2018 vintage was picked from 30 August and 10 September for 2019. The 2018 vintage is twice the size of 2019 and completely different. It took about seven days to pick. The yields [in 2018] are higher so you don’t have the same concentration.” Isabelle told me that it was the first time that the domaine had ever done VCI, when authorities permitted producers to pick 10hL/ha above the permitted yield.

I wanted to drill down further with regard to her perception of the 2019 growing season. “The 2019 is very different to 2018,” she answered. “There was a cold spring with some localized frost followed by cool weather. The vines had a hard time growing and even during flowering, it was quite cold. Then we had a hot June and dry summer generally. There was a little rain before harvesting which saved the yield, though it remained small due to the earlier growing cycle. The acidity is slightly higher than 2018 and a lot more concentrated. Yields were half that of 2018.”

Domaine Raveneau is not immune to the influence of the growing seasons and like the rest of Chablis, juxtaposing the 2018 against 2019, I concur with Isabelle Raveneau that the latter have better acidity levels, concentration and more terroir expression. As such, these must be reflected in my scores, however, it would be disingenuous to suggest that their 2018s, good as they are, exist on the same quality level as either the 2019, or previous vintages such as 2014 or 2017. There is much to savor in 2019, right from their Petit Chablis up to their clutch of Grand Crus. Standouts? An excellent Chablis Village for starters, a fabulous and seductive Chablis Vaillons, a slightly nutty Montée de Tonnerre and a gorgeous marine-influenced La Fôret. This is one example where I do find that their Grand Crus are a tangible step up from the Premier Crus. Their Les Clos is a candidate for Chablis of the vintage thanks to both its uncommon poise and pixelation.

The 2018 harvest started on August 30 at Raveneau. “It was our second-earliest harvest,” Isabelle Raveneau told me. “Only 2003 was earlier.” Tasted from barrel, the wines are soft and supple, but have plenty of that signature Raveneau stylishness. The 2017s have even more, though. More tension, more nuance and more expression of place. Sadly, yields were down 30%, which is not as severe as 2016, when production was down a whopping 50%. As always, the wines are fermented (both primary and secondary) in stainless steel, and then racked into barrel for élevage. Occasionally some lots are fermented in wood, but that is only for new barrels that need to be seasoned. Highly coveted by winelovers around the world, the Raveneau Chablis remain distinctive and soulfully beautiful.

The 2018 harvest started on August 30 at Raveneau. “It was our second-earliest harvest,” Isabelle Raveneau told me. “Only 2003 was earlier.” Tasted from barrel, the wines are soft and supple, but have plenty of that signature Raveneau stylishness. The 2017s have even more, though. More tension, more nuance and more expression of place. Sadly, yields were down 30%, which is not as severe as 2016, when production was down a whopping 50%. As always, the wines are fermented (both primary and secondary) in stainless steel, and then racked into barrel for élevage. Occasionally some lots are fermented in wood, but that is only for new barrels that need to be seasoned. Highly coveted by winelovers around the world, the Raveneau Chablis remain distinctive and soulfully beautiful.

One of my favourite “tweets” of the year is when I can type: “It’s Raven’eau clock”. Given its worldwide renown, it is a discrete domaine that you could easily walk past if you do not spot the signage above your head. As usual I met with Isabelle Raveneau, who is always one of the most refreshingly candid winemakers in town. She takes the responsibility of managing Chablis’ most famous address seriously, but her down-to-earth sensibility and wry humour means that she keeps everything in proportion. The only matter that she finds irksome, rightly so in my opinion, is the astronomical prices the domaine’s wines fetch on the secondary market. She escorted me through the 2016s in bottle and 2017s out of barrel, the former having been bottled a week prior to my ringing their doorbell.

“Like everyone, we had frost damage in 2017. It lasted about a week. Temperatures were low, and the humidity made it worse. If it is just one or two nights then it doesn’t do too much damage. It was problematic in the Grand Crus and in Montée de Tonnerre, basically everything on the Right Bank – different areas to 2016. For example, in 2017 Valmur was badly damaged, but in 2016, not at all. The 2016 was more like a winter frost and 2017 more like a spring frost. We installed candles in Les Clos and apart from that we just prayed. We don’t have any vineyard with spray protection. Except in Les Clos nobody is protecting with candles – you need to have enough people doing that [for it to be effective]. The Left Bank was normal in terms of yield and damage. We picked early, starting on Tuesday 5 September and finished the following Monday, over seven days, normal for our domaine. In 2017 we have lost around one-third whereas in 2016 we lost around half the crop.”

“In 2016 we had high mildew pressure with some botrytis. It was complicated. The 2017 is a small yield but the growing season was smooth: rain when we needed some and then sunshine. The only bad thing was the spring frost. Even the flowering went well for parcels not damaged by the frost, the fermentation nice and easy. There was more heat in the cellar, so the malolactic fermentation finished before Christmas, which is not always the case.

Like Isabelle, I find more enjoyment locked inside those gestating 2017s than in 2016. That is not to say that 2016 is not without its gems, for example a brilliant La Fôret and a scintillating Montée de Tonnerre. Yet the 2017s appear to have greater vivacity and tension, perhaps more terroir expression with killer offerings from (again) Montée de Tonnerre and Vaillons, a stunning Blanchots and a Les Clos that will vie for wine of the vintage.

One of my favourite “tweets” of the year is when I can type: “It’s Raven’eau clock”. Given its worldwide renown, it is a discrete domaine that you could easily walk past if you do not spot the signage above your head. As usual I met with Isabelle Raveneau, who is always one of the most refreshingly candid winemakers in town. She takes the responsibility of managing Chablis’ most famous address seriously, but her down-to-earth sensibility and wry humour means that she keeps everything in proportion. The only matter that she finds irksome, rightly so in my opinion, is the astronomical prices the domaine’s wines fetch on the secondary market. She escorted me through the 2016s in bottle and 2017s out of barrel, the former having been bottled a week prior to my ringing their doorbell.

“Like everyone, we had frost damage in 2017. It lasted about a week. Temperatures were low, and the humidity made it worse. If it is just one or two nights then it doesn’t do too much damage. It was problematic in the Grand Crus and in Montée de Tonnerre, basically everything on the Right Bank – different areas to 2016. For example, in 2017 Valmur was badly damaged, but in 2016, not at all. The 2016 was more like a winter frost and 2017 more like a spring frost. We installed candles in Les Clos and apart from that we just prayed. We don’t have any vineyard with spray protection. Except in Les Clos nobody is protecting with candles – you need to have enough people doing that [for it to be effective]. The Left Bank was normal in terms of yield and damage. We picked early, starting on Tuesday 5 September and finished the following Monday, over seven days, normal for our domaine. In 2017 we have lost around one-third whereas in 2016 we lost around half the crop.”

“In 2016 we had high mildew pressure with some botrytis. It was complicated. The 2017 is a small yield but the growing season was smooth: rain when we needed some and then sunshine. The only bad thing was the spring frost. Even the flowering went well for parcels not damaged by the frost, the fermentation nice and easy. There was more heat in the cellar, so the malolactic fermentation finished before Christmas, which is not always the case.

Like Isabelle, I find more enjoyment locked inside those gestating 2017s than in 2016. That is not to say that 2016 is not without its gems, for example a brilliant La Fôret and a scintillating Montée de Tonnerre. Yet the 2017s appear to have greater vivacity and tension, perhaps more terroir expression with killer offerings from (again) Montée de Tonnerre and Vaillons, a stunning Blanchots and a Les Clos that will vie for wine of the vintage.

“The 2016 vintage was complicated from beginning to end, but we're very happy with the wines despite all the problems with the season,” said winemaker Isabelle Raveneau in early June. “We had hail, frost, mildew, rain and drought,” she went on. “We started harvesting on September 28 because the fruit wasn’t ripe enough until then. We didn’t really see rot but our crop was down 40%.” Owing to the small crop, potential alcohol levels were 13% or higher (“but it wasn’t a ‘cold’ maturity as in 2014,” noted Raveneau) and she did not chaptalize. Both the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations were difficult, according to Isabelle, lasting until February (they’re usually finished by the end of December). She racked the wines off their lees quickly after the malos “because they already had enough fat.” Acidity levels were low in 2016, as in 2015, and Raveneau views these two years as vintages for mid-term aging.

The Raveneaus are almost invariably in the process of bottling when I visit Chablis in early June. This year, Isabelle was reluctant to show the '15s that had been bottled during the week before I stopped by, so I was only able to taste the three '15s that were slated to be bottled a few days after my visit. I have included a new set of notes, even though I reported on these wines last year.

One of my favourite “tweets” of the year is when I can type: “It’s Raven’eau clock”. Given its worldwide renown, it is a discrete domaine that you could easily walk past if you do not spot the signage above your head. As usual I met with Isabelle Raveneau, who is always one of the most refreshingly candid winemakers in town. She takes the responsibility of managing Chablis’ most famous address seriously, but her down-to-earth sensibility and wry humour means that she keeps everything in proportion. The only matter that she finds irksome, rightly so in my opinion, is the astronomical prices the domaine’s wines fetch on the secondary market. She escorted me through the 2016s in bottle and 2017s out of barrel, the former having been bottled a week prior to my ringing their doorbell.

“Like everyone, we had frost damage in 2017. It lasted about a week. Temperatures were low, and the humidity made it worse. If it is just one or two nights then it doesn’t do too much damage. It was problematic in the Grand Crus and in Montée de Tonnerre, basically everything on the Right Bank – different areas to 2016. For example, in 2017 Valmur was badly damaged, but in 2016, not at all. The 2016 was more like a winter frost and 2017 more like a spring frost. We installed candles in Les Clos and apart from that we just prayed. We don’t have any vineyard with spray protection. Except in Les Clos nobody is protecting with candles – you need to have enough people doing that [for it to be effective]. The Left Bank was normal in terms of yield and damage. We picked early, starting on Tuesday 5 September and finished the following Monday, over seven days, normal for our domaine. In 2017 we have lost around one-third whereas in 2016 we lost around half the crop.”

“In 2016 we had high mildew pressure with some botrytis. It was complicated. The 2017 is a small yield but the growing season was smooth: rain when we needed some and then sunshine. The only bad thing was the spring frost. Even the flowering went well for parcels not damaged by the frost, the fermentation nice and easy. There was more heat in the cellar, so the malolactic fermentation finished before Christmas, which is not always the case.

Like Isabelle, I find more enjoyment locked inside those gestating 2017s than in 2016. That is not to say that 2016 is not without its gems, for example a brilliant La Fôret and a scintillating Montée de Tonnerre. Yet the 2017s appear to have greater vivacity and tension, perhaps more terroir expression with killer offerings from (again) Montée de Tonnerre and Vaillons, a stunning Blanchots and a Les Clos that will vie for wine of the vintage.

“The 2016 vintage was complicated from beginning to end, but we're very happy with the wines despite all the problems with the season,” said winemaker Isabelle Raveneau in early June. “We had hail, frost, mildew, rain and drought,” she went on. “We started harvesting on September 28 because the fruit wasn’t ripe enough until then. We didn’t really see rot but our crop was down 40%.” Owing to the small crop, potential alcohol levels were 13% or higher (“but it wasn’t a ‘cold’ maturity as in 2014,” noted Raveneau) and she did not chaptalize. Both the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations were difficult, according to Isabelle, lasting until February (they’re usually finished by the end of December). She racked the wines off their lees quickly after the malos “because they already had enough fat.” Acidity levels were low in 2016, as in 2015, and Raveneau views these two years as vintages for mid-term aging.

The Raveneaus are almost invariably in the process of bottling when I visit Chablis in early June. This year, Isabelle was reluctant to show the '15s that had been bottled during the week before I stopped by, so I was only able to taste the three '15s that were slated to be bottled a few days after my visit. I have included a new set of notes, even though I reported on these wines last year.

Bernard Raveneau’s daughter Isabelle, who went to winemaking school in Beaune after spending a decade on the commercial/marketing side of wine, has been responsible for making the family’s wines since 2010 and Bernard has technically retired as of the beginning of this year. Isabelle told me that the estate took a direct hit from the pre-harvest hailstorm in 2015, making just one-third to one-half their normal volume in Vaillons, Clos, Blanchots and Montée de Tonnerre. The family began picking the affected parcels on September 3, she told me, adding that although acidity levels were low, based on sugar levels the grapes were almost ready to harvest, and everything except their village parcels was picked at 13% potential alcohol or higher. The harvest was finished in eight days. None of the Raveneau 2015s were chaptalized or acidified. The wines finished their alcoholic and malolactic fermentations quickly—before Christmas—but Isabelle noted that a few wines were allowed to keep some of their malic acidity.

The Raveneaus are normally in the middle of bottling when I visit at the beginning of June, but the 2014s had all been finished in mid-May. Isabelle Raveneau told me that the superb 2014s “are a lot like the 2010s, with great drinkability.” Both vintages, she went on, are richer and deeper than the 2008s. (Incidentally, my notes on the 2014s represent my first tasting of these wines in finished form; last year, I accidentally applied precise scores to these wines rather than projected ranges.)

I have been to NoMad many times, but most of the times to host Vinous events in one of the private rooms. I was really looking forward to this dinner in the main dining room as a brief distraction during what has become a very rough time around the world.

Bernard Raveneau’s daughter Isabelle, who went to winemaking school in Beaune after spending a decade on the commercial/marketing side of wine, has been responsible for making the family’s wines since 2010 and Bernard has technically retired as of the beginning of this year. Isabelle told me that the estate took a direct hit from the pre-harvest hailstorm in 2015, making just one-third to one-half their normal volume in Vaillons, Clos, Blanchots and Montée de Tonnerre. The family began picking the affected parcels on September 3, she told me, adding that although acidity levels were low, based on sugar levels the grapes were almost ready to harvest, and everything except their village parcels was picked at 13% potential alcohol or higher. The harvest was finished in eight days. None of the Raveneau 2015s were chaptalized or acidified. The wines finished their alcoholic and malolactic fermentations quickly—before Christmas—but Isabelle noted that a few wines were allowed to keep some of their malic acidity.

The Raveneaus are normally in the middle of bottling when I visit at the beginning of June, but the 2014s had all been finished in mid-May. Isabelle Raveneau told me that the superb 2014s “are a lot like the 2010s, with great drinkability.” Both vintages, she went on, are richer and deeper than the 2008s. (Incidentally, my notes on the 2014s represent my first tasting of these wines in finished form; last year, I accidentally applied precise scores to these wines rather than projected ranges.)

The Raveneaus bottled their 2013s a bit earlier than usual, in early April of this year, "because the wines needed it," said Bernard Raveneau, who does not believe that 2013 will be a vintage for long aging. Although he noted that the estate's Butteaux, Montmain, Montée de Tonnerre and Valmur were harvested before the weekend of rain in early October, and that the Blanchots and Clos came in on the first morning of the rain, he did a longer-than-usual débourbage and also fined the must. I had the feeling that I like these wines more than Bernard does; they are certainly ripe enough, with potential alcohol levels ranging from 12.9% to 13.5%. Grape sugars were actually a tad lower in 2014, but the wines' aromatics are clearly more complex than those of the '13s.

The Raveneaus bottled their 2013s a bit earlier than usual, in early April of this year, "because the wines needed it," said Bernard Raveneau, who does not believe that 2013 will be a vintage for long aging. Although he noted that the estate's Butteaux, Montmain, Montée de Tonnerre and Valmur were harvested before the weekend of rain in early October, and that the Blanchots and Clos came in on the first morning of the rain, he did a longer-than-usual débourbage and also fined the must. I had the feeling that I like these wines more than Bernard does; they are certainly ripe enough, with potential alcohol levels ranging from 12.9% to 13.5%. Grape sugars were actually a tad lower in 2014, but the wines' aromatics are clearly more complex than those of the '13s.

It's always a pleasure to visit Raveneau, where the best wines are capable of a level pure visceral thrill equalled at only a few other estates around the world. Sadly, production is once again down sharply in 2013, much of that the result of a poor flowering and very challenging conditions throughout the summer. Bernard Raveneau adds that over the last three vintages he has lost the equivalent of a full crop, which is obviously distressing for both the estate and consumers who struggle to find a few bottles of these magnificent nectars to cellar each year. Raveneau's 2013s come across as delicate, fragile and best suited to near-term drinking. The harvest did not get started until October 3. Fermentations proceeded at a slow pace, and weren't finished until February 2014. The 2012s have recently been bottled and capture all of the magic I sensed when the wines were in barrel. As I noted last year, the growing season had more than its share of challenges, but a final period of heat concentrated the grapes and resulted in deep wines that are rich yet also possess healthy acidities. As I walked out the door, my eye caught the sign of a vigneron working the land that adorns the entrance. Some visits you want to never end. This is one of them.

The Raveneaus harvested from October 2 through 9, and Bernard Raveneau noted that there was a big difference between the pre- and post-rain fruit.All of the family's vineyards came in with potential alcohol of 13% or higher due in part to the low yields of the vintage (30 hectoliters per hectare on average), and no chaptalization was necessary.The 2012 fruit similarly came in at 13+%, but with healthier acidity than the newer vintage.The alcoholic fermentations were difficult in 2013, said Bernard, with some wines only finishing in March.He fined the musts with bentonite, especially the cuvees from fruit that came in after the weekend of precipitation.It will be a vintage for bottling a bit earlier than usual, Bernard noted, adding that the 2012s are more classic and taut--"in a totally different register:like the 2010s but richer."

It's always a pleasure to visit Raveneau, where the best wines are capable of a level pure visceral thrill equaled at only a few other estates around the world. Sadly, production is once again down sharply in 2013, much of that the result of a poor flowering and very challenging conditions throughout the summer. Bernard Raveneau adds that over the last three vintages he has lost the equivalent of a full crop, which is obviously distressing for both the estate and consumers who struggle to find a few bottles of these magnificent nectars to cellar each year. Raveneau's 2013s come across as delicate, fragile and best suited to near-term drinking. The harvest did not get started until October 3. Fermentations proceeded at a slow pace, and weren't finished until February 2014. The 2012s have recently been bottled and capture all of the magic I sensed when the wines were in barrel. As I noted last year, the growing season had more than its share of challenges, but a final period of heat concentrated the grapes and resulted in deep wines that are rich yet also possess healthy acidities. As I walked out the door, my eye caught the sign of a vigneron working the land that adorns the entrance. Some visits you want to never end. This is one of them.

Do you want the good news or the bad news? Raveneau's 2012s are stunning. That is the good news. The bad news is that yields are down a whopping 40%, which means these wines are going to be even harder to find than they already are. The Raveneaus suffered through a very difficult season where just about everything that could go wrong did, starting with spring frost and a poor flowering, both of which lowered production. Hail in July was followed by very hot weather in August that scorched some of the fruit and lowered yields even further. Readers who can find the 2012s should not hesitate. They are superb. The 2011s have mostly turned as good or better than I expected based on my tastings from barrel. Lastly, its great to see Isabelle Raveneau, Bernard's daughter, taking on a greater role at her family's domaine.

Yields were held down here in 2012 by "lots of coulure," noted Bernard Raveneau in early June."It's a small crop of very pretty wines--classic wines with a good balance of richness and acidity, a bit like 2008 and 2005."Acidity levels after the malos are in the 3.9 to 4.2 grams-per-liter range, with better tartaric acidity than in the previous year.Grape sugars were in the healthy 12.5% to 13% range in 2012, and the Raveneaus did not chaptalize their wines.The fermentations went well and the wines finished quite dry, Raveneau added, noting that the 2011 fermentations were more difficult.As usual, this visit was one of the highlights of my Chablis tour.

Do you want the good news or the bad news? Raveneau's 2012s are stunning. That is the good news. The bad news is that yields are down a whopping 40%, which means these wines are going to be even harder to find than they already are. The Raveneaus suffered through a very difficult season where just about everything that could go wrong did, starting with spring frost and a poor flowering, both of which lowered production. Hail in July was followed by very hot weather in August that scorched some of the fruit and lowered yields even further. Readers who can find the 2012s should not hesitate. They are superb. The 2011s have mostly turned as good or better than I expected based on my tastings from barrel. Lastly, its great to see Isabelle Raveneau, Bernard's daughter, taking on a greater role at her family's domaine.

Yields were held down here in 2012 by "lots of coulure," noted Bernard Raveneau in early June. "It's a small crop of very pretty wines--classic wines with a good balance of richness and acidity, a bit like 2008 and 2005." Acidity levels after the malos are in the 3.9 to 4.2 grams-per-liter range, with better tartaric acidity than in the previous year. Grape sugars were in the healthy 12.5% to 13% range in 2012, and the Raveneaus did not chaptalize their wines. The fermentations went well and the wines finished quite dry, Raveneau added, noting that the 2011 fermentations were more difficult. As usual, this visit was one of the highlights of my Chablis tour.

My visit with Bernard Raveneau was one of the highlights of my trip to Chablis earlier this summer. At their best, Raveneau's wines are contemplative and breathtakingly beautiful. I never miss a chance to drink them whenever I can. The 2011 harvest started on September 5th and lasted 6 days. Hail was an issue in some spots, most notable Les Clos and Montée de Tonnerre, where yields were down 25%. Raveneau adds that a measure of minerality is missing because of the late rains in the season. Raveneau thinks the 2010s have more character than the 2011s. The irregular flowering was most severe on the right bank (Clos and Mont de Tonnerre in particular), while the left bank, which was a week later to flower moved through the flowering with only a 10-15% reduction in yields, modest within the context of the vintage. Raveneau told me the 2010s were very austere at the outset. He thought they might stay that way, instead the wines softened considerably after the malos, which turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The 2010s were bottled end of May 2012, quite late by Chablis standards. As for the wines, they are pretty stratospheric. There is a sense of utter life and vividness in the 2010s that makes them utterly irresistible.

Bernard Raveneau's description of his family's 2011 reminded me of his comments many years ago about the 2000s. "The big rainfall in August raised the pHs in the wines and caused some dilution," he told me. "The wines are a bit facile, and acidity levels are modest. Two thousand eleven is a mishmash of 2006 and 2009." The 2010s here are richer but also quite pliant by the standards of this domain; most of the wines finished with close to two grams per liter of residual sugar due to the long fermentations and this element prevents even the Clos from coming off as austere. "We haven't had a high-acid vintage in a long time," Raveneau observed. The 2010 Montee de Tonnerre and the grand crus were scheduled to be bottled the week after my visit. By the way, the Raveneaus buy virtually all their barrels from Tonnellerie Chassin, having followed Stephane Chassin from his years at Seguin-Moreau.

I came away from this dinner impressed by the restaurant, since the service and food had been exquisite, and with a higher appreciation of Chablis than ever before. If this evening set out to demonstrate the apotheosis of Chablis, then it is “job done.” These wines may actually have surpassed my high expectations.

My visit with Bernard Raveneau was one of the highlights of my trip to Chablis earlier this summer. At their best, Raveneau's wines are contemplative and breathtakingly beautiful. I never miss a chance to drink them whenever I can. The 2011 harvest started on September 5th and lasted 6 days. Hail was an issue in some spots, most notable Les Clos and Montée de Tonnerre, where yields were down 25%. Raveneau adds that a measure of minerality is missing because of the late rains in the season. Raveneau thinks the 2010s have more character than the 2011s. The irregular flowering was most severe on the right bank (Clos and Mont de Tonnerre in particular), while the left bank, which was a week later to flower moved through the flowering with only a 10-15% reduction in yields, modest within the context of the vintage. Raveneau told me the 2010s were very austere at the outset. He thought they might stay that way, instead the wines softened considerably after the malos, which turned out to be a pleasant surprise. The 2010s were bottled end of May 2012, quite late by Chablis standards. As for the wines, they are pretty stratospheric. There is a sense of utter life and vividness in the 2010s that makes them utterly irresistible.

Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village's uncontested superstars.

Bernard Raveneau, a candid judge of vintages, described 2010 as between 2008 and 2007 in style. "Our 2008s are much richer, with acidity levels similar to 2010," he explained. "The earlier vintage brought slow maturity under cool conditions, without rot." Grape sugars in 2010 were in the 12% to 12.5% range, and the wines were chaptalized about a half degree. No bottled wines will be over 13%, promised Raveneau. The 2009s here are less dense and structured than 2008 or 2010, said Raveneau. They had just been bottled prior to my visit, and Raveneau was reluctant to show them. It's entirely possible that they are better than my scores suggest. Incidentally, Raveneau pointed out that a number of the 2010s finished with close to two grams per liter of residual sugar (a bit higher than the 2009s), as the sugar fermentations were trickier to finish in '10. This was also true for a number of white wine producers on the Cote d''Or.

Bernard Raveneau provides unusual perspective with regards to the 2010s. While most of his colleagues talk about a vintage with high acidity, Raveneau points out that the 2010s are actually low in acidity relative to the wines Chablis produced in the 1970s and 1980s. Yields in 2010 were 20% lower than in 2009. The vineyards on the right bank were affected by the irregular flowering, while the vineyards on the left bank were hit by hail in July. August was warm until the end of the month, when rain became a bit of an issue. Raveneau began harvesting the 2010s on September 22, while the 2009s were brought in beginning on September 14. The 2009s were bottled two weeks before my visit. These are two thrilling collections from one of the village's uncontested superstars.

Bernard Raveneau, a candid judge of vintages, described 2010 as between 2008 and 2007 in style. "Our 2008s are much richer, with acidity levels similar to 2010," he explained. "The earlier vintage brought slow maturity under cool conditions, without rot." Grape sugars in 2010 were in the 12% to 12.5% range, and the wines were chaptalized about a half degree. No bottled wines will be over 13%, promised Raveneau. The 2009s here are less dense and structured than 2008 or 2010, said Raveneau. They had just been bottled prior to my visit, and Raveneau was reluctant to show them. It's entirely possible that they are better than my scores suggest. Incidentally, Raveneau pointed out that a number of the 2010s finished with close to two grams per liter of residual sugar (a bit higher than the 2009s), as the sugar fermentations were trickier to finish in '10. This was also true for a number of white wine producers on the Cote d''Or.

Bernard Raveneau noted that 2009 brought the second earliest harvest to date here (the family began picking on September 14), following 2003. He describes the 2009s as "very tender and easy-to-drink wines, in a style similar to the 2006s. It's not a grand millesime de garde," he went on. "The wines will probably drink well in seven or eight years." Two thousand eight here is more serious, "a cousin of 2005," but 2007 "is the true Chablis classic-a vintage that can be drunk for 30 years." As the Raveneau wines have established a long track record for slow development in bottle and are very rarely cited by collectors for premature oxidation, it's reasonable to conclude that the later bottling practiced at this estate has been an important factor behind the longevity of these wines. Incidentally, Raveneau opened bottles of the 2002 Montee de Tonnerre and Valmur for me after our tasting of the new wines; both were extremely pale in color. The Valmur actually began a bit reduced and would benefit from 30 to 60 minutes in a decanter if you wanted to open it anytime soon.

Still one of the best bistros in all of Paris, this temple to the hearty flavors and rich textures of southwestern France also boasts an outstanding wine and spirits list, making it a must-stop for all serious foodies.

Bernard Raveneau noted that 2009 brought the second earliest harvest to date here (the family began picking on September 14), following 2003. He describes the 2009s as "very tender and easy-to-drink wines, in a style similar to the 2006s. It's not a grand millesime de garde," he went on. "The wines will probably drink well in seven or eight years." Two thousand eight here is more serious, "a cousin of 2005," but 2007 "is the true Chablis classic-a vintage that can be drunk for 30 years." As the Raveneau wines have established a long track record for slow development in bottle and are very rarely cited by collectors for premature oxidation, it's reasonable to conclude that the later bottling practiced at this estate has been an important factor behind the longevity of these wines. Incidentally, Raveneau opened bottles of the 2002 Montee de Tonnerre and Valmur for me after our tasting of the new wines; both were extremely pale in color. The Valmur actually began a bit reduced and would benefit from 30 to 60 minutes in a decanter if you wanted to open it anytime soon.

Bernard Raveneau, who had not yet bottled most of the family domain's 2007s at the beginning of June, describes these wines as richer than the 2004s, due in part to the smaller crop. It's a classic year here, with the wines showing incisive aromas and flavors and solid acidity. Raveneau was optimistic about 2008, a riper year in which the fruit came in with grape sugars up to 13% and no chaptalization was done. Although he already considers 2008 to be at least a very good vintage, he emphasized that it was necessary to see how the wines evolved in barrel. Interestingly, Raveneau told me that, at harvest time, the fruit reminded him of vintage 1996. "The wines started hard, with a lot of acidity and sugar," he explained. He was hoping for an elevage similar to that of 2007, during which the wines became rounder. A few of the '08s were already in barrel, but a majority were still in tank at the beginning of June.

A San Francisco institution, Zuni Café has kept guests well fed since 1979, eons by the standards with which restaurants open and close in the United States. The cozy, two-story, rustic dining room is bustling with energy as we settle in for this mid-week lunch.

Bernard Raveneau, who had not yet bottled most of the family domain's 2007s at the beginning of June, describes these wines as richer than the 2004s, due in part to the smaller crop. It's a classic year here, with the wines showing incisive aromas and flavors and solid acidity. Raveneau was optimistic about 2008, a riper year in which the fruit came in with grape sugars up to 13% and no chaptalization was done. Although he already considers 2008 to be at least a very good vintage, he emphasized that it was necessary to see how the wines evolved in barrel. Interestingly, Raveneau told me that, at harvest time, the fruit reminded him of vintage 1996. "The wines started hard, with a lot of acidity and sugar," he explained. He was hoping for an elevage similar to that of 2007, during which the wines became rounder. A few of the '08s were already in barrel, but a majority were still in tank at the beginning of June.

One of the idiosyncracies of this superb estate is that tastings here have always begun at the premier cru level. No longer, though, as the Raveneaus finally have some village Chablis with vintage 2007: they will produce about 5,000 bottles from vines they planted five years ago around the bottom of Montmain. In 2007 the Raveneaus picked between September 10 and 16, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol levels in the moderate 11.5% to 12% range and chaptalizing most of the wines to about 12.5%. The wines had already been racked twice following the malos, and they went into futs with very little lees. As Bernard Raveneau described it: "We're not partisans of working with the lees." Raveneau noted that the 2007 fruit was picked under better conditions than in 2004 and that the new crop of wines has more flesh than the '04s. Incidentally, the 2006s had just been bottled a week before my end-of-May visit. They are outstanding, but Raveneau appears to give the edge to the 2005s, which he compared to the 1990s made here. "No work was needed in the vines in 2005," he said. Raveneau told me that his 2006s tended to finish with more residual sugar than the 2007s (typically 2 to 3 grams, vs. 1 to 1.5).

One of the idiosyncracies of this superb estate is that tastings here have always begun at the premier cru level. No longer, though, as the Raveneaus finally have some village Chablis with vintage 2007: they will produce about 5,000 bottles from vines they planted five years ago around the bottom of Montmain. In 2007 the Raveneaus picked between September 10 and 16, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol levels in the moderate 11.5% to 12% range and chaptalizing most of the wines to about 12.5%. The wines had already been racked twice following the malos, and they went into futs with very little lees. As Bernard Raveneau described it: "We're not partisans of working with the lees." Raveneau noted that the 2007 fruit was picked under better conditions than in 2004 and that the new crop of wines has more flesh than the '04s. Incidentally, the 2006s had just been bottled a week before my end-of-May visit. They are outstanding, but Raveneau appears to give the edge to the 2005s, which he compared to the 1990s made here. "No work was needed in the vines in 2005," he said. Raveneau told me that his 2006s tended to finish with more residual sugar than the 2007s (typically 2 to 3 grams, vs. 1 to 1.5).

Bernard Raveneau describes the family's 2006s as "very rich and supple, more like Burgundies to our south." The wines started out a bit like the 2003s, he told me, "but with more freshness and minerality, and a less exotic character." The fermentations were long, and most of the wines finished with about two grams per liter of residual sugar. This will no doubt give them more early personality and appeal than the 2005s here-a crop of wines that Raveneau describes as "more structured and solid, and possibly a vintage with great aging potential." Raveneau compares his 2005s to 2002, but believes they're even richer than the earlier set of wines. Still, he admitted, as he gets older he increasingly prefers wines with a bit more fruit and less obvious structure because they're less tiring to drink. Bernard and brother Jean-Marie buy less than 10% new oak each year.

Bernard Raveneau describes the family's 2006s as "very rich and supple, more like Burgundies to our south." The wines started out a bit like the 2003s, he told me, "but with more freshness and minerality, and a less exotic character." The fermentations were long, and most of the wines finished with about two grams per liter of residual sugar. This will no doubt give them more early personality and appeal than the 2005s here-a crop of wines that Raveneau describes as "more structured and solid, and possibly a vintage with great aging potential." Raveneau compares his 2005s to 2002, but believes they're even richer than the earlier set of wines. Still, he admitted, as he gets older he increasingly prefers wines with a bit more fruit and less obvious structure because they're less tiring to drink. Bernard and brother Jean-Marie buy less than 10% new oak each year.

The Raveneaus had just started the 2006 harvest on the day I stopped by to taste 2005s and 2004s (September 14). I had a stunning tasting here, as the 2004s have turned out very well and the richer 2005s are among the finest examples of their vintage. Bernard Raveneau believes the 2004s will be superb in about five years, but does not think that this vintage possesses the matiere of either 2005 or 2002 here. Raveneau told me the quality of fruit in 2005 was exceptional, and that the estate had very little rot to worry about. He described the first two '05s as aromatic but not particularly complex vins de plaisir, but the rest, he said, are even richer than the 2002s while retaining similar minerality.

The Raveneaus had just started the 2006 harvest on the day I stopped by to taste 2005s and 2004s (September 14). I had a stunning tasting here, as the 2004s have turned out very well and the richer 2005s are among the finest examples of their vintage. Bernard Raveneau believes the 2004s will be superb in about five years, but does not think that this vintage possesses the matiere of either 2005 or 2002 here. Raveneau told me the quality of fruit in 2005 was exceptional, and that the estate had very little rot to worry about. He described the first two '05s as aromatic but not particularly complex vins de plaisir, but the rest, he said, are even richer than the 2002s while retaining similar minerality.

.Bernard Raveneau was a bit concerned about the level of reduction in some of the estate's 2004 cuvees, especially those from the left bank.He believes that this characteristic is due to the sulfur products that were used to stave off oidium."We didn't have our normal rains in September to wash off the residue."The result is that a few wines appear less pure today than they are likely to be when they are bottled next year.The Raveneaus did a severe debourbage but then left their wines on their lees longer than usual, without doing batonnage."The wines lacked flesh after the fermentations, but today they are an agreeable surprise," said Bernard.He finds them fleshier and suppler than the 2000s, which he has always considered to be slightly diluted owing to a weekend of rain just before the harvest.Yields in the two years were actually similar, he told me.Most of the 2003s were still in tank, recently filtered and awaiting bottling-a bit later than usual due to what Raveneau described as family issues and personnel problems.The 2003s here are quite promising.The Raveneaus picked early to retain freshness, believing that the fruit was ripe and the potential alcohols were sufficient.They then decided not to chaptalize, and the wines will carry alcohol levels of 12.4% to 12.8% in bottle."High alcohol levels would have accentuated the heaviness of the wines," noted Bernard.

.Bernard Raveneau was a bit concerned about the level of reduction in some of the estate's 2004 cuvees, especially those from the left bank.He believes that this characteristic is due to the sulfur products that were used to stave off oidium."We didn't have our normal rains in September to wash off the residue."The result is that a few wines appear less pure today than they are likely to be when they are bottled next year.The Raveneaus did a severe debourbage but then left their wines on their lees longer than usual, without doing batonnage."The wines lacked flesh after the fermentations, but today they are an agreeable surprise," said Bernard.He finds them fleshier and suppler than the 2000s, which he has always considered to be slightly diluted owing to a weekend of rain just before the harvest.Yields in the two years were actually similar, he told me.Most of the 2003s were still in tank, recently filtered and awaiting bottling-a bit later than usual due to what Raveneau described as family issues and personnel problems.The 2003s here are quite promising.The Raveneaus picked early to retain freshness, believing that the fruit was ripe and the potential alcohols were sufficient.They then decided not to chaptalize, and the wines will carry alcohol levels of 12.4% to 12.8% in bottle."High alcohol levels would have accentuated the heaviness of the wines," noted Bernard.

Like 1999 but with better maturity of flavors," is the way Bernard Raveneau describes his family domain's crop of wines in 2003.The fruit was very ripe and no chaptalization was done; natural alcohol levels are in the 12.5% to 13% range.Yields averaged a very low 35 hectoliters per hectare, with the crop level held down by heat, not frost.In fact, Raveneau maintained that there was virtually no loss due to frost.The family does not have vines low on hillsides (they do not own any village parcels), but, according to Raveneau, there were no real problems even in their unprotected hillside sites.The estate's 2002s have turned out extremely well, particularly the grand crus.Bernard Raveneau described 2002 as "an ideal vintage, one we'd like to be able to make every year.The wines have great balancing acids and no dissonance.They're not at all over the top."IWC readers will recall that Raveneau prefers the estate's almost miraculously precise, minerally 2001s to the suppler but less intense 2000s, which he believes to have suffered from a bit of dilution due to rainfall prior to the harvest.

I came away from this dinner impressed by the restaurant, since the service and food had been exquisite, and with a higher appreciation of Chablis than ever before. If this evening set out to demonstrate the apotheosis of Chablis, then it is “job done.” These wines may actually have surpassed my high expectations.

This wine was tasted at Daniel during a dinner that was auctioned at the Jackson Hole Wine Auction.

Like 1999 but with better maturity of flavors," is the way Bernard Raveneau describes his family domain's crop of wines in 2003.The fruit was very ripe and no chaptalization was done; natural alcohol levels are in the 12.5% to 13% range.Yields averaged a very low 35 hectoliters per hectare, with the crop level held down by heat, not frost.In fact, Raveneau maintained that there was virtually no loss due to frost.The family does not have vines low on hillsides (they do not own any village parcels), but, according to Raveneau, there were no real problems even in their unprotected hillside sites.The estate's 2002s have turned out extremely well, particularly the grand crus.Bernard Raveneau described 2002 as "an ideal vintage, one we'd like to be able to make every year.The wines have great balancing acids and no dissonance.They're not at all over the top."IWC readers will recall that Raveneau prefers the estate's almost miraculously precise, minerally 2001s to the suppler but less intense 2000s, which he believes to have suffered from a bit of dilution due to rainfall prior to the harvest.

Bernard Raveneau described 2002 as an ideal vintage, richer and more concentrated than 2000, with no need for chaptalization and sound acidity in the 4 to 4.5 grams-per-liter range. The wines, according to Raveneau, have more of the typical minerality of Chablis than the 2000s, a vintage in which some rain just before the harvest resulted in an element of dilution. Raveneau also clearly prefers the family's 2001s to its 2000s, and my tastings of the finished 2001s confirm that these are extremely impressive, even if they are in a different register of aromas and flavors. Raveneau told me he doesn't mind a bit of noble rot in his wines, noting that it gives them a honeyed quality and a more glyceral texture. There's no doubt that a vintage like 2001 is in a different style," he concluded, comparing this vintage to 1994.

Bernard Raveneau described 2002 as an ideal vintage, richer and more concentrated than 2000, with no need for chaptalization and sound acidity in the 4 to 4.5 grams-per-liter range. The wines, according to Raveneau, have more of the typical minerality of Chablis than the 2000s, a vintage in which some rain just before the harvest resulted in an element of dilution. Raveneau also clearly prefers the family's 2001s to its 2000s, and my tastings of the finished 2001s confirm that these are extremely impressive, even if they are in a different register of aromas and flavors. Raveneau told me he doesn't mind a bit of noble rot in his wines, noting that it gives them a honeyed quality and a more glyceral texture. There's no doubt that a vintage like 2001 is in a different style," he concluded, comparing this vintage to 1994.

Imagine my surprise when Bernard Raveneau announced that 2001 was a stronger vintage than 2000 for this superb estate. It was possible to get ripe fruit in 2001," Raveneau assured me. It all a question of controlling your yields. Yes, there was a lot of noble rot in 2001, but the rot brought extra gras to the wines. Three of our wines reached 13% potential alcohol, and we did very little chaptalization for the other cuvees Raveneau added. In 2000, it rained the weekend before the harvest, and the precipitation resulted in an element of dilution. The same thing happened to us in 1970, a very good vintage that could have been even better if not for rain just before the harvest that swelled the grapes. Like the '70s, the 2000s will be nice wines for drinking on the young side." Raveneau went on to describe the 2001s as more jovial, fruit-driven wines for mid-term consumption, while the 2000s, despite coming from a large crop, show more of the minerality for which Chablis is known. The best Raveneau bottlings from both vintages showed spectacularly in early June.

Imagine my surprise when Bernard Raveneau announced that 2001 was a stronger vintage than 2000 for this superb estate. It was possible to get ripe fruit in 2001," Raveneau assured me. It all a question of controlling your yields. Yes, there was a lot of noble rot in 2001, but the rot brought extra gras to the wines. Three of our wines reached 13% potential alcohol, and we did very little chaptalization for the other cuvees Raveneau added. In 2000, it rained the weekend before the harvest, and the precipitation resulted in an element of dilution. The same thing happened to us in 1970, a very good vintage that could have been even better if not for rain just before the harvest that swelled the grapes. Like the '70s, the 2000s will be nice wines for drinking on the young side." Raveneau went on to describe the 2001s as more jovial, fruit-driven wines for mid-term consumption, while the 2000s, despite coming from a large crop, show more of the minerality for which Chablis is known. The best Raveneau bottlings from both vintages showed spectacularly in early June.

This wine was tasted over dinner at Hostellerie des Clos in Chablis in June 2014.