1990 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru
$900 (2010)
France
Vosne Romanée
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2022 vintage)
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1990
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
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2022
2028 - 2055
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Rouget was unusually chatty when I made my annual visit to the Domaine in Flagey-Echézeaux, answering in detail about the various strands of the Jayer family. In keeping with his late uncle Henri’s core tenet, everything is de-stemmed in this vintage after picking commenced on September 3. There is also comparatively higher use of new oak, 100%, mainly but not exclusively from François Frère for his top cuvées such as the Echézeaux and Cros Parantoux. Some give his wines short shrift, perhaps inevitably comparing them to those of Jayer. However, I have found more consistency in recent vintages, except in 2020, where I felt he picked too late. Here, there is a combination of opulence and refinement, so even where he has applied new oak, the caliber of the climats shines through.
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2021
2025 - 2045
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“The harvest was very complicated,” Emmanuel Rouget tells me in his cellar in Gilly. “It was hard getting pickers during COVID-19. I started on 22 September, but you had to find the bunches. It was not that warm, but there was no rain during picking. The fermentation was slightly slower during the 21-day cuvaison period during which we did pigeage as usual, though not as hard as in other years. I just did one per day, alternating with remontage.” Broaching the style of the wines with Rouget, he tells me: “There is fine freshness and persistence, but there is a lot of reduction in the barrels at the moment. The Savigny and Chorey-lès-Beaune were racked in July.” Then perhaps the sentence that highlights the contrast between two vintages more than any other during my six-week stay… “The highest degree in alcohol in 2021 was 14% whereas in 2020 it was the minimum.”
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2020
2028 - 2060
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2018
2024 - 2050
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Emmanuel Rouget, joined by his two sons Guillaume and Nicolas, has overseen some marvelous wines in recent vintages, recovering from an inconsistent patch during the Nineties (incidentally where I have encountered more than my fair share of corked bottles, the last culprit a 1993 Echézeaux.) As always, Rouget himself is taciturn at first, taking time to warm up and then becomes quite chatty (I discovered that his uncle, Henri Jayer, had undergone the same heart operation as myself so now I have something in common with the legendary winemaker.) Rouget told me that he commenced the harvest on 9 September. Since temperatures was so hot, around 30°C and even warmer than in 2003, he had to cool the fruit in tank. He compares his 2018s to 2015 in terms of their structure and alcohol. Of course, following the tenets of Jayer, all his wines are completely de-stemmed and undergo two winters maturation in barrel.
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2017
2022 - 2040
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Rouget’s wines are too often compared with those of his revered uncle, Henri Jayer. It sometimes seems that whilst Henri Jayer’s now stratospherically priced bottles are beyond reproach, it is fair game to criticize his nephew’s. Personal issues led to periods when Rouget’s wines could have been better, but over the last five or six years, they are vastly improved and far more reliable. That is partly due to Rouget’s two sons joining their father – Nicolas working out in the vines and Guillaume more stationed in the winery. There now appears to be genuine profundity from some of their greatest vineyards. Emmanuel Rouget himself is a man of few words, always a little standoffish at the beginning but warming up and turning affable once he feels comfortable. “It is a vintage that is très bourguignon,” he told me, flitting from one barrel to another in his cellar, which is often a degree cooler than others. He admired the precision of the 2017s and the manner in which the oak barrels are integrated during élevage. Most of his alcohol levels are around 13.0°. I appreciate Rouget’s deftness in assimilating the 100% new oak in his Echézeaux and Cros Parantoux. Whereas elsewhere such a regime can dominate and obscure fruit and nuance, at this address it is barely noticeable, and complementary to the wine. Clearly both Emmanuel and Guillaume are prudent in use of new oak, applying 30% in some of the Village Crus, the Nuits Saint-Georges being a standout here. There are those who shell out thousands of dollars or euros for a piece of Burgundy history, buying any Henri Jayer wines at whatever the cost and too often with suspect provenance. Me? I would prefer to spend my hard-earned cash on recent vintages produced by his nephew and the next generation.
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2015
2022 - 2050
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2014
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Rouget's opening comment on 2014 was that "it's a good vintage for a 4 year." In fact, that was an understatement, as he views the 2014s as "pure, precise and long: very Pinot and very Burgundy. The vintage is not 2013 or 2012 but the wines show lovely finesse. And they are only arriving at this level with time in barrel." He gives 2014 the edge over 2013 for maturity of tannins, noting that "the purity of 2013 is due to its low alcohol." Grape sugars were a full percentage point higher in 2014, and some of the wines were not chaptalized. Incidentally, Rouget told me that 2015, his 40th vintage, was the first year he made wine totally naturally--that is, without any correction of sugar or acidity. Rouget will not bottle his 2014s until June or July, which is standard practice in this very cold cellar.
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2013
2025 - 2038
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Rouget, who normally ferments his wines at cool temperature, was advised by his enologist to heat the cuverie in 2013. But he was only able to get the fermentation temperature up to 25 degrees C in 2013 owing mostly to the small volumes of wine, compared to 28 degrees in 2014. His '13s have turned out pure, delineated and long and Rouget's Cros Parantoux should be long-lived.
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2013
2025 - 2037
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Rouget describes 2013 as a vintage of terroir, with great purity of flavor and low alcohol (starting at 11%). He began picking on October 1, eliminating a good quantity of rotten grapes but relatively few green ones; there was actually a higher percentage of underripe fruit in 2012, he told me. Rouget describes the 2012s as lively and the 2013s as slightly more tannic: "frank, direct and long." The 2012s have the acidity and balance to age, he went on, but the 2013s may be for drinking even later. "The 2013s are more saline and long than the 2012s," he said. "There's a lot of taste in retrofaction." Rouget cut the percentage of new oak for his village wines from a previous 50% to 30% in 2013 "in order to preserve freshness and terroir." He routinely destems all of his fruit.
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2012
2024 - 2036
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Rouget told me he eliminated an average of 25% of his grapes in 2012, mostly because he thought they were underripe. The result, he said, is a set of brisk wines with good acidity and the balance to age. Still, he added, the 2013s are slightly more tannic as well as more saline and may be for drinking even later. Both vintage, he told me, demanded a long élevage.
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2012
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Rouget, who has been using a "new and gentler pigeage instrument" since 2007, told me that his extraction was especially light in 2012.Due to the very low quantities of wine and his tiny cement cuves, the temperatures remained low and after long pre-maceration cold soaks of up to 12 days he had to heat the cellar to start the fermentations.The maximum fermentation temperatures did not exceed 26 degrees C.Rouget picked on the late side in 2012, beginning on September 24, noting that he had everything in '12, including a bit of rot at the end.The young wines, he said, are more tannic than the 2011s and lower in acidity than the 2010s.The wines will only be racked for the bottling, which will not take place until June or July of 2014.
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2011
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2011
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Of all the vignerons I visit every fall, Rouget is one of the most unpredictable, as his wines--and his view of each new vintage--frequently differ dramatically from those of his colleagues on the Cote de Nuits. When I asked him about possible similarities between the 2011s and 2007s owing to similarities in the shape of the two growing seasons, he responded that "2007 is more like 2010; both are vintages of finesse." He believes that the 2010s will offer more pleasure early on than either the 2009s or the 2011s, and hopes that people will drink them first and allow the 2009s to age. The pHs in 2011 are a relatively low 3.3, said Rouget, who added that it's not at all a fragile vintage.
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2010
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2010
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It was a cold and humid year, said Emmanuel Rougeot, and a lot of grapes did not ripen. He did a strict selection at the harvest, mostly to eliminate underripe, not rotten, grapes ("in 2011, it was the other way around"). "The vintage is very typical for pinot," said Rouget, "like 2008 in style but with more tannins and minerality and a bit less acidity." Grape sugars were around 11.3% and most wines were chaptalized about one degree. "The wines don't have the power or structure to support high alcohol," he explained. "The charm of the year is its freshness and roundness." The malos were finished by the time of my visit (except for the Passetoutgrains) but no wines had yet been racked.
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2009
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2009
2019 - 2039
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This small domaine is one of Burgundy's best kept secrets. Emmanuel Rouget farms 8 hectares of vineyards, of which he owns 2.5. Rouget began harvesting on September 12. The fruit was 10% destemmed. Fermentation and maceration lasted about 20 days. The wines were pressed, and the sediment was left to decant naturally for two days. The wines were then racked into barrel with the fine lees. The malos were fast in 2009; they took only 4 months to complete, versus 17 for The 2008s. Rouget expected to do no rackings until the wines were prepared for bottling, with no fining or filtration. I tasted all of these wines from new oak barrels. Readers will note that some of these wines, especially at the entry-level are not aged in 100% new oak. That means the samples I tasted are not representative of the final wines. Ordinarily in a situation like this I would ask to taste multiple barrels, but my schedule was particularly tight on the day I visited Rouget. Of course, this is not an issue with the top wines, which are aged in 100% new oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from top to bottom.
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2009
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Rouget, who has owned a sorting table since 1990, told me that using it in 2009 was indispensable. "We picked in surmaturite, and we eliminated about 10% of the fruit, including overripe and underripe berries, even some rotten grapes." (In many other cellars, it crossed my mind that the wines could have been even better had growers not been seduced by the favorable growing season and harvest conditions into essentially using all their fruit.) Grape sugars averaged 13.5%. As a number of his colleagues pointed out, the heavy rain in mid-July probably resulted in thinner grape skins. In fact, says Rouget, the skins were thicker in both 2008 and 2010. "But 2009 shows more finesse than 2005," he said, adding that "2009 will be a vintage of pleasure."
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2008
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2007
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Rouget described 2008 as "a particular year, with a difficult climate." It was hard to control the outbreaks of oidium and mildew and the good weather arrived too late. "We picked in good conditions but it was cold," he told me: down to about 40 degrees at night and in the upper 50s during the days. He eliminated about 30% of his fruit, with unripe grapes being more of a problem than rot. (Rouget actually told me that rot was more of an issue in 2009.) Rouget did a fairly long vinification of about 26 days, and the wines had been racked when I tasted them in November, this first time this had occurred since the 2003s. There was a lot of reduction, Rouget explained, and it was necessary to separate the wines from their lees. Rouget brought in his fruit with potential alcohol between 11.5% and 12.2% and chaptalized between 0.5 and 1.0 degree. The vegetative cycle was essentially over, he told me, and in any event he did not want to wait for further concentration from dry weather or wind, which he believes brings a loss of freshness and even a cooked character.
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2007
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Rouget compares 2007 to 1997, describing the young wines as "typical pinot: attractive, fresh and persistent." He made only 33 hectoliters per hectare after tossing out rotten and pink grapes. Fermentation temperatures reached just 26oC, and Rouget noted that pHs are in the moderate 3.45 to 3.6 range. The typical wine was 11.8% potential alcohol chaptalized to about 12.8%. Rouget, always a candid judge of vintages and his own wines, believes the 2006s are cleaner wines that show their terroirs more clearly. They're a bit denser, he continued, even if they're showing their tannins today. And they're "truer, fresher expressions of pinot than the '05s," he added, describing the earlier year as "a vintage for snobs, with too much speculation."
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2006
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Rouget compares 2007 to 1997, describing the young wines as "typical pinot: attractive, fresh and persistent." He made only 33 hectoliters per hectare after tossing out rotten and pink grapes. Fermentation temperatures reached just 26oC, and Rouget noted that pHs are in the moderate 3.45 to 3.6 range. The typical wine was 11.8% potential alcohol chaptalized to about 12.8%. Rouget, always a candid judge of vintages and his own wines, believes the 2006s are cleaner wines that show their terroirs more clearly. They're a bit denser, he continued, even if they're showing their tannins today. And they're "truer, fresher expressions of pinot than the '05s," he added, describing the earlier year as "a vintage for snobs, with too much speculation."
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2006
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Rouget had a crop level averaging 38 hectoliters per hectare in 2006, following the elimination of some rotten and green grapes. He made it clear that 2006 is his style of wine. "I adore 2006 for its finesse, elegance and higher-than-average acidity," he told me. "The wines are aromatic and very well balanced, and they should age very well." Rouget, who would rather "protect the natural acidity in the grapes than get more alcohol," chaptalized most of his '06s about a half-degree, to around 13%. His very rich 2005s are riper and lower in acidity than his 2006s-less fruity today and more tannic.
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2005
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Rouget had a crop level averaging 38 hectoliters per hectare in 2006, following the elimination of some rotten and green grapes. He made it clear that 2006 is his style of wine. "I adore 2006 for its finesse, elegance and higher-than-average acidity," he told me. "The wines are aromatic and very well balanced, and they should age very well." Rouget, who would rather "protect the natural acidity in the grapes than get more alcohol," chaptalized most of his '06s about a half-degree, to around 13%. His very rich 2005s are riper and lower in acidity than his 2006s-less fruity today and more tannic.
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2005
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Like a number of his colleagues, Rouget was careful not to overextract his 2005s, a group of wines he described as having enormous natural concentration but "regular" ripeness. He used a bit more new oak than usual for the village wines (70%, vs. a more normal 50%). In 2004, a huge selection was necessary due to the prevalence of oidium, but in 2005 he only eliminated 4% or 5% of the rose, or underripe, grapes. "The biggest difference between the two years is in the skin to juice ratio of the grapes," Rouget summarized. As always, the fermentation temperatures here were quite cool: the Echezeaux climbed to 29oC but the rest, said Rouget, did not exceed 26o.
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2004
2023 - 2033
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2004
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Like a number of his colleagues, Rouget was careful not to overextract his 2005s, a group of wines he described as having enormous natural concentration but "regular" ripeness. He used a bit more new oak than usual for the village wines (70%, vs. a more normal 50%). In 2004, a huge selection was necessary due to the prevalence of oidium, but in 2005 he only eliminated 4% or 5% of the rose, or underripe, grapes. "The biggest difference between the two years is in the skin to juice ratio of the grapes," Rouget summarized. As always, the fermentation temperatures here were quite cool: the Echezeaux climbed to 29oC but the rest, said Rouget, did not exceed 26o.
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2004
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Rouget told me that it was necessary to eliminate a substantial portion of the fruit in 2004 on his table de trie. In fact, he told me, he had to switch off the table, because the grapes were passing by too fast for the sorters to eliminate all the affected fruit (Rouget did not make a Savigny-les-Beaune due to the outbreak of oidium). Rouget then tailored his vinification and elevage to preserve "the finesse of pinot," doing less cold maceration than usual because the grape sugars were already high, and then using very little new oak to age the wines. He planned to bottle early, in December.
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2003
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Rouget told me that it was necessary to eliminate a substantial portion of the fruit in 2004 on his table de trie. In fact, he told me, he had to switch off the table, because the grapes were passing by too fast for the sorters to eliminate all the affected fruit (Rouget did not make a Savigny-les-Beaune due to the outbreak of oidium). Rouget then tailored his vinification and elevage to preserve "the finesse of pinot," doing less cold maceration than usual because the grape sugars were already high, and then using very little new oak to age the wines. He planned to bottle early, in December.
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2003
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Rouget waited until September 3 to start picking in 2003, in order to get phenolic ripeness.He says the vines benefited from two periods of rain, and because he harvested under cooler conditions he did not have to subject his fruit to a thermic shock.The malos finished by March, but the wines were still on their lees, unracked, in November.Rouget used no new oak in 2003, as he was afraid that the wood would dominate the wines.The new vintage shows more structure and stuffing than Rouget's more delicate 2002s.(Martine's Wines, Novato, CA) Also tasted: Vosne-Romanee*.
00
2002
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Rouget waited until September 3 to start picking in 2003, in order to get phenolic ripeness.He says the vines benefited from two periods of rain, and because he harvested under cooler conditions he did not have to subject his fruit to a thermic shock.The malos finished by March, but the wines were still on their lees, unracked, in November.Rouget used no new oak in 2003, as he was afraid that the wood would dominate the wines.The new vintage shows more structure and stuffing than Rouget's more delicate 2002s.(Martine's Wines, Novato, CA) Also tasted: Vosne-Romanee*.
00
2002
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Along with Regis Forey and Alan Meunier, Emmanuel Rouget is one of the most candid winemakers I visit in Burgundy. Before I even taste his wines, he makes a point of telling me what went wrong with the new vintage and how he could have done a better job vinifying. Rouget began by telling me that his yields were very low in 2002. 'We had a very difficult flowering due to the temperature differential between day and night,' he explained. 'There was also a lot of millerandage Grape sugars reached 12.8%, but Rouget is quick to admit that his 2002s show limited coloring material. In fact, he was unable to do extended cold macerations as the musts started fermenting rapidly, at 12oC, and then finished quickly. The Echezeaux reached 27oC during the fermentation, but the other wines remained considerably cooler. Rouget planned to bottle his 2002s in December. 'There's no reason to wait; the richness is there, and we need to capture the fruit,' he explained, adding that his cellar, even in November, was warmer than usual owing to France's scorching summer.
00
2001
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Rouget describes his 2001s as less dense and fleshy than his 2000s and suited for earlier drinking. The fruit was healthy in that the skins resisted rot, and the skins were actually riper than those of 2000," he explained, "but there were a lot of pink, underripe grapes that had to be selected out on the triage table." The 2001s had not yet been racked, even though the malolactic fermentations had been finished since March. Rouget noted that the wines needed more oxygenation to "round them out." He planned to begin bottling in January, on the early side by his standards. The estate-wide yield was a very reasonable 36 hectoliters per hectare in 2001.
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2000
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Rouget describes his 2001s as less dense and fleshy than his 2000s and suited for earlier drinking. The fruit was healthy in that the skins resisted rot, and the skins were actually riper than those of 2000," he explained, "but there were a lot of pink, underripe grapes that had to be selected out on the triage table." The 2001s had not yet been racked, even though the malolactic fermentations had been finished since March. Rouget noted that the wines needed more oxygenation to "round them out." He planned to begin bottling in January, on the early side by his standards. The estate-wide yield was a very reasonable 36 hectoliters per hectare in 2001.
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2000
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Rouget did a rapid sorting in the vines in 2000, then a further selection in the cuverie The worst problems with rot were in Nuits-Saint-Georges, he told me, with the fruit healthier in Vosne-Romanee. The malos went quickly, and the wines lost color early on, added Rouget, but the color and structure were coming back in barrel. The 2000 fruit came in with lower acidity than that of 1999. In both years, grape sugars were in the 11.5% to 11.7% range; following chaptalization, the bottled wines will be around 13%.
00
1999
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Rouget described the young '99s as fruity wines with average acidity. They are deeper in color than the '98s, with lower pHs. Still, he planned to bottle the '99s in January of 2001, or about three months earlier than he finished the '98s in 2000. Rouget did a strict elimination of the less-ripe grapes in '99 but still made the maximum permitted yields.
00
1998
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Rouget described the young '99s as fruity wines with average acidity. They are deeper in color than the '98s, with lower pHs. Still, he planned to bottle the '99s in January of 2001, or about three months earlier than he finished the '98s in 2000. Rouget did a strict elimination of the less-ripe grapes in '99 but still made the maximum permitted yields.
00
1998
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I stopped by here on a dreary, drizzly morning in early November, before the really nasty cold and snow settled in for the rest of my stay in Burgundy. Rouget's young '98s were a bit under the weather as well, and it will be necessary to follow up on these wines after the bottling. In addition to showing some of the severity of the vintage, a few of them lacked the verve and delineation one might expect from this first-rate producer in a year with reasonably low pHs. For his own part, Rouget prefers the '97s today "for their roundness and suppleness. The '98s are not exactly green," he told me, "but they seem rather dry today." The '98s were mostly racked in July and will be bottled in early spring.
00
1997
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Rouget describes '97 as a compromise between the finesse and tannins of '89 and the power and fruit of '92, but with yields in the very low 28 hectoliters per hectare range. "The '97s are less rich and less tannic than the '85s," he adds. Rouget did a cold maceration following the '97 harvest ("especially in '97," he noted), then kept his wines on their lees until last July. Interestingly, Rouget told me his '96s are "less rich in acidity" than the '97s because of the former year higher yields, but the '96s are denser and more powerful. He prefers the balance of '96 to '95.
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1996
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1992
2023 - 2040
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