2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur de Roy Très Vieilles Vignes

Wine Details
Release Price

$186 (2015)

Place of Origin

France

Gevrey Chambertin

Burgundy

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Pinot Noir (2016 vintage)

Vintages
Reviews & Tasting Notes

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There were some losses to frost in Charmes-Chambertin and Chambertin in 2016, said Loïc Dugat, but estate-wide production was down no more than 20%. “And the flowering wasn’t especially long,” he added. “It was only irregular for the frosted wines, but fast ripening during the warm summer closed the gap and there was only a slight difference at the end.” The Dugats, whose vines and cellar were certified as bio by Veritas in '16, started harvesting on September 21 and picked in six days, with potential alcohol levels around 13% following the elimination of some of the latest-ripening grapes.

Loïc carried out what he described as normal extraction in 2016, which means a cold soak lasting several days, one or two pigeages plus one or two remontages per day during the fermentation, with the temperature mounting no higher than 32 degrees C., and a bit of post-fermentation maceration—or a total of about three weeks on the skins. The long, slow malolactic fermentations mostly finished in July and August and although the wines were mostly racked then, they were still on their lees in barrel when I visited the estate in November. The '16s will be bottled at between 13% and 13.3% alcohol “or a bit higher,” according to Dugat, “slightly more than in 2015 but definitely not at 14%.” He described the ‘16s as “classic in the positive sense of the word," adding that the ‘16s are fresher while the ‘15s are more exuberant. The Dugats generally vinified with a higher percentage of whole clusters in 2015, as the grapes were perfectly ripe while in 2016 they had some issues with the later-flowering clusters.

If my notes are missing descriptions of the wines' colors, that's because the family's gorgeous small vaulted barrel cellar, which dates back to the 11th century, is one of the dimmest in Burgundy, and just about any liquid would appear black here. But the Dugats' wines are routinely among the darkest Burgundies, even at the dining room table.

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