2017 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 6% Mourvèdre, 4% Cinsault
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2022 - 2030
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Even though the Brunier family has been producing top-level wines for decades, the quality level here has actually been stepping up even higher over the last 10 years. The introduction of Télégramme, in 2002, gave the fruit from the estate’s young vines a home of their own. Télégramme is not an easygoing wine. It performs as well or better than many domaines’ top cuvées, and at quite a fair price. The highest-quality grapes from the property’s old vines are dedicated to the flagship La Crau bottling. In 2017, 2018 and 2019, La Crau should be considere among the top wines of the vintage. The depth and fruit intensity, not to mention a borderline decadent personality in those vintages, might fool consumers into believing that the wines should be enjoyed on the young side. That’s far from the truth, as recent bottles of ripe years like 1978, 1983, 1985 and 1998 have proven.
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