2018 Cornas

Stéphane Robert reflected positively on the generous 2023 harvest, reporting a yield of 45 hectoliters per hectare (hl/ha) for whites and 40 hl/ha for reds. However, the season was not without its challenges, particularly during the very hot periods that tested the resilience of certain grape varieties. According to Robert, Roussanne faced the most difficulties in the extreme heat. While the variety thrives in sunny conditions, temperatures exceeding 40°C (104°F) proved problematic. “In arid conditions like this, Roussanne can get scorched, with the vine pulling juice from its berries, much more so than with Marsanne,” Robert explained. That said, older vines with more developed root systems fared better in these extreme conditions. Compared to 2022, the 2023 vintage shows slightly lower alcohol levels and less ripe aromas for both white and reds while still maintaining sufficient flavor concentration. Robert also spoke about chaptalization in 2023, confirming that some of the juice from younger vines required additional sugar due to ripening blockages that couldn’t be resolved while the grapes were still attached to the vine. Despite these hurdles, Robert’s 2023 healthy yields underscore his ability to navigate a season of complexities while continuing to produce wines of distinction, with the Saint-Péray Cuvée Prestige emerging as one of the standout wines in its appellation.

I had the pleasure of visiting the dynamic Stéphane Robert at his tunnel winery in the hills of Saint-Péray. Robert was accompanied by his son Luca, who currently studies at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune. Back in 1994, Robert established Domaine du Tunnel, commencing with 2.5 hectares of vineyards spanning Cornas, Saint-Péray and Saint-Joseph. In 2013, the domaine broadened its scope by adding vineyards in another AOC – Condrieu. Subsequently, in 2014, Stéphane undertook the restoration of an ancient tunnel in the Saint-Péray hills, transforming it into a facility for vinification and aging. Dating back to the early 20th century, this 170-meter-long cut-stone tunnel once served as a passage for a steam train connecting Valence to Vernoux-en-Vivarais. The combined vineyards cover 12 hectares, distributed across the municipalities of Saint-Péray, Cornas, Glun, Mauves, Tournon-sur-Rhône and Chavanay. The cuvées predominantly derive from old vines situated on hillsides or terraces. Vineyard maintenance and grape harvesting are meticulously conducted by hand. Robert prefers one- to three-year-old barrels for his Cornas and Saint-Joseph wines, although he may opt for various-sized new oak barrels depending on cuvée and vintage. While Robert also vinifies a Saint-Joseph, his primary focus for the reds lies in the various Cornas bottlings. The entry-level Cornas is a strait-laced and polished red that blends fruit from 15 different parcels, usually spending up to 14 months in third-fill oak barrels. The Cornas Vin Noir, utilizing older-vine fruit from three specific sites, offers more substance and depth compared to its counterpart. At the pinnacle of the quality hierarchy resides the Cornas Pur Noir, a selection from one or two single barriques containing juice from vines as old as 100 years. While the 2021 vintage presented fairly simple wine profiles, the 2022s show much more substance and complexity. As of 2022, there will also be a new Cornas called Cuvée Toto, using fruit from one hectare within the Sauman lieu-dit. Beyond these reds, Robert continues to produce magnificent Saint-Pérays that shine at the apex of the AOC. In 2022, the impressive Cuvée Prestige is the wine of the vintage for the Saint-Péray appellation.

I had the pleasure of visiting the dynamic Stéphane Robert at his tunnel winery in the hills of Saint-Péray. Robert was accompanied by his son Luca, who currently studies at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune. Back in 1994, Robert established Domaine du Tunnel, commencing with 2.5 hectares of vineyards spanning Cornas, Saint-Péray and Saint-Joseph. In 2013, the domaine broadened its scope by adding vineyards in another AOC – Condrieu. Subsequently, in 2014, Stéphane undertook the restoration of an ancient tunnel in the Saint-Péray hills, transforming it into a facility for vinification and aging. Dating back to the early 20th century, this 170-meter-long cut-stone tunnel once served as a passage for a steam train connecting Valence to Vernoux-en-Vivarais. The combined vineyards cover 12 hectares, distributed across the municipalities of Saint-Péray, Cornas, Glun, Mauves, Tournon-sur-Rhône and Chavanay. The cuvées predominantly derive from old vines situated on hillsides or terraces. Vineyard maintenance and grape harvesting are meticulously conducted by hand. Robert prefers one- to three-year-old barrels for his Cornas and Saint-Joseph wines, although he may opt for various-sized new oak barrels depending on cuvée and vintage. While Robert also vinifies a Saint-Joseph, his primary focus for the reds lies in the various Cornas bottlings. The entry-level Cornas is a strait-laced and polished red that blends fruit from 15 different parcels, usually spending up to 14 months in third-fill oak barrels. The Cornas Vin Noir, utilizing older-vine fruit from three specific sites, offers more substance and depth compared to its counterpart. At the pinnacle of the quality hierarchy resides the Cornas Pur Noir, a selection from one or two single barriques containing juice from vines as old as 100 years. While the 2021 vintage presented fairly simple wine profiles, the 2022s show much more substance and complexity. As of 2022, there will also be a new Cornas called Cuvée Toto, using fruit from one hectare within the Sauman lieu-dit. Beyond these reds, Robert continues to produce magnificent Saint-Pérays that shine at the apex of the AOC. In 2022, the impressive Cuvée Prestige is the wine of the vintage for the Saint-Péray appellation.

As Domaine du Tunnel/Stéphane Robert’s popularity continues to rise, the wines are increasingly hard to find, which is good for the Roberts. The overall quality has been rising for the last decade, so it’s easy to understand why they have been getting so much attention. A nifty tasting room and shop smack in the middle of Saint-Péray, which is attached to the original winery, doesn’t hurt, either. Undoubtedly, the increasing quality can be attributed mainly to moving production to a new spacious winery on the mountain above the village, resulting in much more efficient work. The original winery was relatively small and cramped, making things difficult. The wines have been among the top tier of Cornas for a few years now, and the recent vintages are no exception.

As Domaine du Tunnel/Stéphane Robert’s popularity continues to rise, the wines are increasingly hard to find, which is good for the Roberts. The overall quality has been rising for the last decade, so it’s easy to understand why they have been getting so much attention. A nifty tasting room and shop smack in the middle of Saint-Péray, which is attached to the original winery, doesn’t hurt, either. Undoubtedly, the increasing quality can be attributed mainly to moving production to a new spacious winery on the mountain above the village, resulting in much more efficient work. The original winery was relatively small and cramped, making things difficult. The wines have been among the top tier of Cornas for a few years now, and the recent vintages are no exception.

Stéphane Robert wishes that he had gotten more fruit in 2019, “of course,” but what he did pick was “extremely high-quality, with both ripeness and high acidity.” While the skins of the grapes were thicker than usual, “they weren’t leathery and we didn’t get raisining, so it’s not the style of a typically hot year. There’s a lot more life there than what you might expect if you just look at the weather.”

Stéphane Robert is another producer who bottles on the early side in the pursuit of retaining as much fruit as possible “rather than running the risk of losing it by having the wine in barrel for too long.” That pursuit of freshness worked out quite well for him in 2017, a vintage where retaining vibrancy was a challenge given the ripeness of the fruit. Robert’s wines, which see minimal to no new oak, are always on the accessible side, leading with fruit that’s framed by polished, even tannins. He is blessed with an abundance of old vines in some of Cornas’ great terroirs, including the holdings of the legendary, now-retired Marcel Juge, in the high-altitude Champelrose and Cayret lieu-dits.

Stéphane Robert raises all of his wines in oak casks, and while his Saint-Pérays might see up to 10 percent new oak, his reds get none. That's the result of a steady evolution away from his initial winemaking, which commenced with the creation of his domaine in 1994, when he was only 24 years old. Back then, Robert was enamored of the sexy qualities that new oak can bring to a wine, especially in its youth, but now, he said, he looks "for greater purity and complexity, and of course expression of terroir, and new oak can get in the way." These 2015s are the most impressive young wines that I've tasted at this 7.5-hectare domaine (3.5ha in Cornas, 2ha in Saint-Péray and 2ha in Saint-Joseph) since my first visit, in 2004.

Stéphane Robert's red wines strike a balance between traditional and modern in style, and they continue to rise in quality, especially at the top end. The average age of Robert's Syrah vines is high, with a large percentage of them over 100 years old. Farming is done manually and with a horse, and up to 50% whole clusters are used in fermentations. Robert is using far less new oak than he did when he and his wife, Sandrine, started their domain (now 7.5 hectares in size) in 1994, when Stéphane was just 24 years old. The amount of oak used now varies from zero for the Saint-Joseph, Cornas and Pur Noir to around 10% for the Vin Noir. Robert's Saint-Pérays are among the best of the appellation, and he told me that he’s thrilled to see the increased attention being lavished on his hometown in recent years. "It was pretty lonely 20 years ago," he told me. "Only a few people were trying to make wines to their full potential, but now it's gone crazy and some of the best producers in the northern Rhône are here and doing great work."

Stéphane Robert's red wines strike a balance between traditional and modern in style, and they continue to rise in quality, especially at the top end. The average age of Robert's Syrah vines is high, with a large percentage of them over 100 years old. Farming is done manually and with a horse, and up to 50% whole clusters are used in fermentations. Robert is using far less new oak than he did when he and his wife, Sandrine, started their domain (now 7.5 hectares in size) in 1994, when Stéphane was just 24 years old. The amount of oak used now varies from zero for the Saint-Joseph, Cornas and Pur Noir to around 10% for the Vin Noir. Robert's Saint-Pérays are among the best of the appellation, and he told me that he’s thrilled to see the increased attention being lavished on his hometown in recent years. "It was pretty lonely 20 years ago," he told me. "Only a few people were trying to make wines to their full potential, but now it's gone crazy and some of the best producers in the northern Rhône are here and doing great work."

Stéphane Robert has finally moved his production out of his cramped cellar in the middle of Saint-Péray and up to the 120-meter-long abandoned railroad tunnel in the hills above the village that gave the domain its name. Robert has emerged as a star of the northern Rhône, producing lively, focused wines that strike a balance between traditional and modern, possessing the structure to age but plenty of upfront fruit as well. He calls 2013 "a complicated year, with late harvesting required to get fully mature fruit." He admitted that the tannins in some 2013s made from grapes that weren't fully mature can be green and dry. That said, he thinks that the vintage is "one of energy, and it may well age better than some might suppose."

Stephane Robert's wines continue to go from strength to strength, making him one of the northern Rhone's emerging stars, but he is still soft-spoken and low-key, not unlike his neighbor Vincent Paris. As with Paris, Stephane took over the vines of a famed Cornas vigneron(in this case the legendary Marcel Juge) and, as with Paris, many people seem unable to resist appending the old guy's name to his. That seems to be changing, slowly, but one can imagine how bothersome it must be for a serious winegrower like Robert.As we tasted through his recent vintages, Stephane told me he thinks that2012 is "blue fruit and power, with softer tannins than 2010."He believes that the wines will age well:"not as long as 2010 but longer than 2009, a vintage whose wines are expressive and rich but will be better before they lose their freshness."As for2011, he likes the fact that the wines are "floral and fresh, with good acidity and balance." While the acidity will help them age, he thinks that they'll "probably be best now through ten years from now" because they lack the structure for really long aging.The white wines of 2012 will age very well, he told me, "at least as well as any from other recent vintages." What makes 2012 a great year for white wines is that the wines "have both depth and freshness so they'll appeal to all types:those who like vivacity and those who like power and richness."

Stephane Robert's wines continue to go from strength to strength, making him one of the northern Rhone's emerging stars, but he is still soft-spoken and low-key, not unlike his neighbor Vincent Paris. As with Paris, Stephane took over the vines of a famed Cornas vigneron(in this case the legendary Marcel Juge) and, as with Paris, many people seem unable to resist appending the old guy's name to his. That seems to be changing, slowly, but one can imagine how bothersome it must be for a serious winegrower like Robert.As we tasted through his recent vintages, Stephane told me he thinks that2012 is "blue fruit and power, with softer tannins than 2010."He believes that the wines will age well:"not as long as 2010 but longer than 2009, a vintage whose wines are expressive and rich but will be better before they lose their freshness."As for2011, he likes the fact that the wines are "floral and fresh, with good acidity and balance." While the acidity will help them age, he thinks that they'll "probably be best now through ten years from now" because they lack the structure for really long aging.The white wines of 2012 will age very well, he told me, "at least as well as any from other recent vintages." What makes 2012 a great year for white wines is that the wines "have both depth and freshness so they'll appeal to all types:those who like vivacity and those who like power and richness."

Thanks to the diligence of the young, soft-spoken Stephane Robert and "some incredible old vines in great spots that were tended like a garden" by the legendary Marcel Juge before Robert took over, this estate is now among the best in Cornas.Robert's cellars are actually a few minutes, literally, down the road in Saint-Peray, where he also owns some of the appellation's oldest vines, including some that pre-date phylloxera.The wines here straddle the modern and traditional style, displaying plenty of immediate, upfront fruit but with solid tannins and the structure to age.In that sense I'd compare them to those of Vincent Paris, who is also a big player in the current Cornas renaissance.Stephane calls 2011 "a year marked by its freshness, which means that the wines will be their best when that trait is on display, when they're young."He is an avowed fan of energetic fruit and thinks that "while some of the '11s will age on balance, you'll lose more than you gain if you hold them for too long."The 2010s here are deep, spicy and intensely flavored but shouldn't be broached "until after you've drunk almost everything else except your '05s," he told me.Speaking of (relatively) older vintages, the 2009 Cornas Pur Noir, from a vintage that Robert described succinctly as "grandiose," is showing a remarkable degree of depth, with powerful, deeply concentrated dark fruit and floral pastille character and serious but harmonious tannins.No way I'd be opening a bottle any time soon. (Charles Neal Selections, www.charlesnealselections.com; Elite Wines, www.elitewines.net; Williams Corner Wine, www.williamscorner.com)

Thanks to the diligence of the young, soft-spoken Stephane Robert and "some incredible old vines in great spots that were tended like a garden" by the legendary Marcel Juge before Robert took over, this estate is now among the best in Cornas. Robert's cellars are actually a few minutes, literally, down the road in Saint-Peray, where he also owns some of the appellation's oldest vines, including some that pre-date phylloxera. The wines here straddle the modern and traditional style, displaying plenty of immediate, upfront fruit but with solid tannins and the structure to age. In that sense I'd compare them to those of Vincent Paris, who is also a big player in the current Cornas renaissance. Stephane calls 2011 "a year marked by its freshness, which means that the wines will be their best when that trait is on display, when they're young." He is an avowed fan of energetic fruit and thinks that "while some of the '11s will age on balance, you'll lose more than you gain if you hold them for too long." The 2010s here are deep, spicy and intensely flavored but shouldn't be broached "until after you've drunk almost everything else except your '05s," he told me. Speaking of (relatively) older vintages, the 2009 Cornas Pur Noir, from a vintage that Robert described succinctly as "grandiose," is showing a remarkable degree of depth, with powerful, deeply concentrated dark fruit and floral pastille character and serious but harmonious tannins. No way I'd be opening a bottle any time soon. (Charles Neal Selections, www.charlesnealselections.com; Elite Wines, www.elitewines.net; Williams Corner Wine, www.williamscorner.com)

This has quickly become a highly reliable source of powerful but balanced Cornas, and proprietor/winemaker Stephane Robert told me he believes that his wines will become even more elegant in upcoming vintages. "Richness is a birthright in Cornas," he told me, "and by paying close attention to harvesting with mature tannins and to careful elevage--especially not adding oak tannins--there's no reason that the wines can't be graceful." The crop in 2010 was off by up to 50% here "but the good thing is that the fruit was superb," Robert added. This is a very popular address in the northern Rhone right now and all of Robert's 2009s were sold out when I saw him in early November. "People are trying to reserve the 2010s without even tasting them," Robert mused. At the end of our tasting Robert opened a bottle of the 1999 Cornas Vin Noir, which is just entering its mature phase and shows a wild set of smoky dark fruit and floral aromas, with exotic truffle and spice character. I'd love to drink it alongside a braised lamb shank or mushroom and truffle risotto or pasta dish, or maybe with washed rind cheeses.

Stephane Robert will bottle only a single Cornas from 2008 because it was not a year of sufficient richness. "It's a vintage where we were able to get good spicy, typical syrah character, but at a low intensity and from a tiny yield," he told me. "The whites can be truly excellent though, with strong mineral and floral personality. They're well balanced and will be drinking well in the next four or five years." Robert's consistently complex all-roussanne Saint-Peray is fairly unique for the region "as only 10% of the appellation is planted to roussanne now." Robert says that his Saint-Perays will be at their very best a decade after the vintage and that people seriously underestimate how well these wines can age and improve.

Stephane Robert will bottle only a single Cornas from 2008 because it was not a year of sufficient richness. "It's a vintage where we were able to get good spicy, typical syrah character, but at a low intensity and from a tiny yield," he told me. "The whites can be truly excellent though, with strong mineral and floral personality. They're well balanced and will be drinking well in the next four or five years." Robert's consistently complex all-roussanne Saint-Peray is fairly unique for the region "as only 10% of the appellation is planted to roussanne now." Robert says that his Saint-Perays will be at their very best a decade after the vintage and that people seriously underestimate how well these wines can age and improve.

Stephane Robert began building his domain from scratch in 1994, at the age of 24.He began with a handful of rental agreements and now works with 3 hectares in Cornas, 2.5 in Saint-Joseph and 2 in Saint-Peray, most of which he owns.This has become an excellent source for nicely balanced, traditionally styled wines as Robert seeks intensity of flavor but dislikes the masking influence of new oak.I was particularly impressed by a pair of older bottles he opened for me:a powerful, mineral-laden 2001 Cornas Vin Noir, which I rated 93 points, and a wild, massively concentrated 1999 Cornas (92), either of which I'd be proud to own and serve.(The Saint-Peray line-up chez Robert is not too shabby, either, with all three '04 cuvees displaying excellent energy and clarity.)

Stephane Robert began building his domain from scratch in 1994, at the age of 24.He began with a handful of rental agreements and now works with 3 hectares in Cornas, 2.5 in Saint-Joseph and 2 in Saint-Peray, most of which he owns.This has become an excellent source for nicely balanced, traditionally styled wines as Robert seeks intensity of flavor but dislikes the masking influence of new oak.I was particularly impressed by a pair of older bottles he opened for me:a powerful, mineral-laden 2001 Cornas Vin Noir, which I rated 93 points, and a wild, massively concentrated 1999 Cornas (92), either of which I'd be proud to own and serve.(The Saint-Peray line-up chez Robert is not too shabby, either, with all three '04 cuvees displaying excellent energy and clarity.)