2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée

Sitting down with Laurence Féraud is always a pleasure, especially when stellar wines are involved, as was the case during this visit. But first, a bit of news: In 2021, Féraud purchased Domaine Porte Rouge, a small four-hectare winery nestled in the heart of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Féraud’s daughter, Justine Féraud, now oversees the viticulture and winemaking at Domaine Porte, focusing on a low-intervention approach. I had the chance to taste a few barrel samples from this new project—some promising, others less so. Back at Pegau, things started off strong with good to very good 2023 whites and reds. Both the Blanc Cuvée A Tempo and the red Cuvée Réservée show well at this early stage, but the Pegau magic truly came alive when the older vintages began to flow. The elegant 1988 Cuvée Réservée still shines brightly, and the super rare, ravishingly beautiful 1997 Cuvée Justine rendered me speechless. The thrilling 2010 Cuvée Da Capo and the intensely powerful 2010 Cuvée Inspiration left no doubt that Domaine du Pegau belongs at the very top of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape hierarchy.

Laurence Feraud explained that the maturity of the grapes was inconsistent in 2022, unlike in 2020. “It bothers me when there is no uniformity in grape maturity,” Feraud emphasized. “The various summer heatwaves halted the ripening process for some berries while others continued to ripen. That's why, on the same vine, there were unripe, ripe as well as overripe berries; there was a bit of everything. And some grapes had been damaged by hail.” This situation necessitated rigorous sorting both at picking and during reception at the winery. Apart from the lack of uniformity, Feraud also pointed to the fragile state of the global fine wine market as a reason not to bottle a Da Capo in 2022. During this tasting, I was deeply impressed by the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée A Tempo, which performed extremely well in both 2021 and 2022. The 2023 Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Cuvée Lône is another white wine worth seeking out, bottled under the Château Pegau label. As for the reds, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée turned out well, albeit not as impressive as I had hoped during my initial tasting last year. That said, it would be foolish to dismiss the 2021, given its elegant appeal. On the other hand, the 2022 is a much more serious, structured and concentrated Cuvée Réservée.

Laurence Feraud explained that the maturity of the grapes was inconsistent in 2022, unlike in 2020. “It bothers me when there is no uniformity in grape maturity,” Feraud emphasized. “The various summer heatwaves halted the ripening process for some berries while others continued to ripen. That's why, on the same vine, there were unripe, ripe as well as overripe berries; there was a bit of everything. And some grapes had been damaged by hail.” This situation necessitated rigorous sorting both at picking and during reception at the winery. Apart from the lack of uniformity, Feraud also pointed to the fragile state of the global fine wine market as a reason not to bottle a Da Capo in 2022. During this tasting, I was deeply impressed by the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée A Tempo, which performed extremely well in both 2021 and 2022. The 2023 Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Cuvée Lône is another white wine worth seeking out, bottled under the Château Pegau label. As for the reds, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée turned out well, albeit not as impressive as I had hoped during my initial tasting last year. That said, it would be foolish to dismiss the 2021, given its elegant appeal. On the other hand, the 2022 is a much more serious, structured and concentrated Cuvée Réservée.

Laurence Féraud greeted me at Domaine Pegau while she was busy selecting label colors for her new Vin de Table, Pegauvino. Domaine de Pegau currently has 24 hectares of vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with three dedicated to white grape varieties. Apart from these holdings, the Pegau family owns 35 hectares in Côtes du Rhône and another 11 outside of these appellations to produce the Plan Pegau, Pin Pegau and the new Pegauvino labels. For her Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sélection Laurence Féraud, she selects and buys finished wines from other producers. This year I tasted two brand new wines from Domaine Pegau: the 2019 Cuvée P.O.L., a name derived from the first letters of Féraud’s father, Paul, her mother, Odette and Laurence herself. It is made with equal proportions of Grenache and Cinsault and aged in used barriques from Guigal’s Château d’Ampuis. To celebrate the arrival of her first grandchild Ella, there will be a Cuvée Ella in 2020, a selection of the finest barrels of the Cuvée Da Capo from the same vintage. The 2019 Cuvée P.O.L. wears a modern and refined dress, while the 2020 Cuvée Ella displays mesmerizing complexity and finesse. Due to their tiny production, obtaining either of those wines will be challenging. Such eccentric Cuvées made by Féraud can taste spectacular, but unfortunately, they aren’t inexpensive. In my opinion, their red Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée delivers the best value: a traditional, complex and spicy offering that can be cellared for up to 25 or more years. And the gap in quality to the pricier special bottlings is usually negligible.

Laurence Féraud greeted me at Domaine Pegau while she was busy selecting label colors for her new Vin de Table, Pegauvino. Domaine de Pegau currently has 24 hectares of vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with three dedicated to white grape varieties. Apart from these holdings, the Pegau family owns 35 hectares in Côtes du Rhône and another 11 outside of these appellations to produce the Plan Pegau, Pin Pegau and the new Pegauvino labels. For her Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sélection Laurence Féraud, she selects and buys finished wines from other producers. This year I tasted two brand new wines from Domaine Pegau: the 2019 Cuvée P.O.L., a name derived from the first letters of Féraud’s father, Paul, her mother, Odette and Laurence herself. It is made with equal proportions of Grenache and Cinsault and aged in used barriques from Guigal’s Château d’Ampuis. To celebrate the arrival of her first grandchild Ella, there will be a Cuvée Ella in 2020, a selection of the finest barrels of the Cuvée Da Capo from the same vintage. The 2019 Cuvée P.O.L. wears a modern and refined dress, while the 2020 Cuvée Ella displays mesmerizing complexity and finesse. Due to their tiny production, obtaining either of those wines will be challenging. Such eccentric Cuvées made by Féraud can taste spectacular, but unfortunately, they aren’t inexpensive. In my opinion, their red Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée delivers the best value: a traditional, complex and spicy offering that can be cellared for up to 25 or more years. And the gap in quality to the pricier special bottlings is usually negligible.

Laurence Féraud greeted me at Domaine Pegau while she was busy selecting label colors for her new Vin de Table, Pegauvino. Domaine de Pegau currently has 24 hectares of vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with three dedicated to white grape varieties. Apart from these holdings, the Pegau family owns 35 hectares in Côtes du Rhône and another 11 outside of these appellations to produce the Plan Pegau, Pin Pegau and the new Pegauvino labels. For her Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sélection Laurence Féraud, she selects and buys finished wines from other producers. This year I tasted two brand new wines from Domaine Pegau: the 2019 Cuvée P.O.L., a name derived from the first letters of Féraud’s father, Paul, her mother, Odette and Laurence herself. It is made with equal proportions of Grenache and Cinsault and aged in used barriques from Guigal’s Château d’Ampuis. To celebrate the arrival of her first grandchild Ella, there will be a Cuvée Ella in 2020, a selection of the finest barrels of the Cuvée Da Capo from the same vintage. The 2019 Cuvée P.O.L. wears a modern and refined dress, while the 2020 Cuvée Ella displays mesmerizing complexity and finesse. Due to their tiny production, obtaining either of those wines will be challenging. Such eccentric Cuvées made by Féraud can taste spectacular, but unfortunately, they aren’t inexpensive. In my opinion, their red Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée delivers the best value: a traditional, complex and spicy offering that can be cellared for up to 25 or more years. And the gap in quality to the pricier special bottlings is usually negligible.

Laurence Féraud greeted me at Domaine Pegau while she was busy selecting label colors for her new Vin de Table, Pegauvino. Domaine de Pegau currently has 24 hectares of vineyards in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with three dedicated to white grape varieties. Apart from these holdings, the Pegau family owns 35 hectares in Côtes du Rhône and another 11 outside of these appellations to produce the Plan Pegau, Pin Pegau and the new Pegauvino labels. For her Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sélection Laurence Féraud, she selects and buys finished wines from other producers. This year I tasted two brand new wines from Domaine Pegau: the 2019 Cuvée P.O.L., a name derived from the first letters of Féraud’s father, Paul, her mother, Odette and Laurence herself. It is made with equal proportions of Grenache and Cinsault and aged in used barriques from Guigal’s Château d’Ampuis. To celebrate the arrival of her first grandchild Ella, there will be a Cuvée Ella in 2020, a selection of the finest barrels of the Cuvée Da Capo from the same vintage. The 2019 Cuvée P.O.L. wears a modern and refined dress, while the 2020 Cuvée Ella displays mesmerizing complexity and finesse. Due to their tiny production, obtaining either of those wines will be challenging. Such eccentric Cuvées made by Féraud can taste spectacular, but unfortunately, they aren’t inexpensive. In my opinion, their red Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée delivers the best value: a traditional, complex and spicy offering that can be cellared for up to 25 or more years. And the gap in quality to the pricier special bottlings is usually negligible.

Laurence Feraud’s flagship Cuvée Reservée bottling sits comfortably among the best of the appellation and may deliver the best value of all Châteauneufs. Both the 2018 and 2017 are among the standouts of the vintage. In the vintages they are bottled, the Cuvée Laurence and da Capo are intriguing distractions. They are almost always stunners and represent only a fraction of the wines produced. They often appear in the market at random times, demonstrating the highly individual personalities of this family.

Laurence Feraud’s flagship Cuvée Reservée bottling sits comfortably among the best of the appellation and may deliver the best value of all Châteauneufs. Both the 2018 and 2017 are among the standouts of the vintage. In the vintages they are bottled, the Cuvée Laurence and da Capo are intriguing distractions. They are almost always stunners and represent only a fraction of the wines produced. They often appear in the market at random times, demonstrating the highly individual personalities of this family.

Recent vintages of Pegau have displayed greater elegance than those from the mid-2000s but long-time fans of this estate’s wild, traditionally made wines need not fear that Laurence Feraud’s wines have become too polished.

An iconic producer of traditionally styled Châteauneufs, Pegau has a vast worldwide group of highly loyal fans, many of whom have trekked to the estate for a visit with the extremely hospitable and entertaining Féraud family. Laurence Féraud makes no apologies for the sometimes rustic character of Pegau's wines, which are sourced from the domain's 21 hectares of vines, made entirely with whole clusters and aged in old foudres and demi-muids for two years before bottling without fining or filtration. On the contrary, Féraud relishes the opportunity to continue the family tradition of making "wild wines that have their own personality. Like people with a unique character, not everybody is going to be in love with them." There will be a Cuvée Da Capo produced in 2015, she told me, making it the first to be bottled since the 2010.

An iconic producer of traditionally styled Châteauneufs, Pegau has a vast worldwide group of highly loyal fans, many of whom have trekked to the estate for a visit with the extremely hospitable and entertaining Féraud family. Laurence Féraud makes no apologies for the sometimes rustic character of Pegau's wines, which are sourced from the domain's 21 hectares of vines, made entirely with whole clusters and aged in old foudres and demi-muids for two years before bottling without fining or filtration. On the contrary, Féraud relishes the opportunity to continue the family tradition of making "wild wines that have their own personality. Like people with a unique character, not everybody is going to be in love with them." There will be a Cuvée Da Capo produced in 2015, she told me, making it the first to be bottled since the 2010.

Laurence Féraud described the 2012 wines as "a lot like 2010 in terms of fruit but their tannins are on the softer side." She believes, as a number of her neighbors do, that they'll be at their best before the '10s, wines she says "should just be forgotten for a long time, like the '05s." The greater--and necessary--emphasis on "darker" grapes in 2013 means that wines from this vintage will most likely be ageworthy, she thinks, but she wonders if fans of "traditional" Châteauneuf will be all that crazy for many of them, at least in the near term, because of the smaller-than-usual Grenache presence in the wines.

I've noticed that the wines here seem a bit more polished in recent years, which should come as good news to those who have found them rustic in the past. But make no mistake: these are traditionally made Châteauneufs that will likely always possess a wild streak unless a new cellar is built and a new-wave consultant is brought on board, both unlikely scenarios.

Laurence Féraud described the 2012 wines as "a lot like 2010 in terms of fruit but their tannins are on the softer side." She believes, as a number of her neighbors do, that they'll be at their best before the '10s, wines she says "should just be forgotten for a long time, like the '05s." The greater--and necessary--emphasis on "darker" grapes in 2013 means that wines from this vintage will most likely be ageworthy, she thinks, but she wonders if fans of "traditional" Châteauneuf will be all that crazy for many of them, at least in the near term, because of the smaller-than-usual Grenache presence in the wines.

I've noticed that the wines here seem a bit more polished in recent years, which should come as good news to those who have found them rustic in the past. But make no mistake: these are traditionally made Châteauneufs that will likely always possess a wild streak unless a new cellar is built and a new-wave consultant is brought on board, both unlikely scenarios.

The big news here is the Feraud family's recent acquisition of 41 hectares of vineyards, all planted to red varieties, due south of Chateauneuf and abutting Sorgues to the west, and spanning the Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages (25 hectares), Cotes-du-Rhone (5) and more generic IGP (11) appellations.This almost triples the Ferauds' land holdings (they own 21 hectares in Chateauneuf-du-Pape) and will allow them, according to Laurence Feraud, "to reach a far greater market than we could with Pegau."And while she continues her negociant projects throughout the southern Rhone, "there's nothing like having your own vines."I've noticed a bit more refinement and less sauvage character to the Pegau Chateauneufs in the last few vintages, with 2008 being a high-water mark for wildness and gaminess here.That said, a couple of '08s that I've had recently were in no way excessively funky, which wasn't the case a year or so ago.I suspect that bottle variation is at work here as I continue to hear of widely variable drinking experiences with this wine.Incidentally, the 1999 Pegau is a knockout right now, offering vibrant red fruit and floral character, striking freshness and fully absorbed tannins.

The big news here is the Feraud family's recent acquisition of 41 hectares of vineyards, all planted to red varieties, due south of Chateauneuf and abutting Sorgues to the west, and spanning the Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages (25 hectares), Cotes-du-Rhone (5) and more generic IGP (11) appellations. This almost triples the Ferauds' land holdings (they own 21 hectares in Chateauneuf-du-Pape) and will allow them, according to Laurence Feraud, "to reach a far greater market than we could with Pegau." And while she continues her negociant projects throughout the southern Rhone, "there's nothing like having your own vines." I've noticed a bit more refinement and less sauvage character to the Pegau Chateauneufs in the last few vintages, with 2008 being a high-water mark for wildness and gaminess here. That said, a couple of '08s that I've had recently were in no way excessively funky, which wasn't the case a year or so ago. I suspect that bottle variation is at work here as I continue to hear of widely variable drinking experiences with this wine. Incidentally, the 1999 Pegau is a knockout right now, offering vibrant red fruit and floral character, striking freshness and fully absorbed tannins.

Two thousand and eleven "will be a very attractive vintage for drinking early, because of the intense fruit" according to Laurence Feraud, who adds that "there is also an elegant character that wasn't there in recent vintages, which have all been more sauvage, more animal." Feraud compares 2011 to 2009 "because of the fruit expression, but less wild and more elegant." As a consequence of the naturally high yields of the vintage, which were unavoidable without a severe selection, she thinks that "there isn't the concentration, the density" in the wines to suggest long-term cellaring, "but there is balance and freshness so that's the trade-off." She thinks that 2010 can stand alongside the greatest vintages at her family's estate and compares the wines to her 2005s, but with "a greater degree of finesse and less overt tannins."

Two thousand and eleven "will be a very attractive vintage for drinking early, because of the intense fruit" according to Laurence Feraud, who adds that "there is also an elegant character that wasn't there in recent vintages, which have all been more sauvage, more animal." Feraud compares 2011 to 2009 "because of the fruit expression, but less wild and more elegant." As a consequence of the naturally high yields of the vintage, which were unavoidable without a severe selection, she thinks that "there isn't the concentration, the density" in the wines to suggest long-term cellaring, "but there is balance and freshness so that's the trade-off." She thinks that 2010 can stand alongside the greatest vintages at her family's estate and compares the wines to her 2005s, but with "a greater degree of finesse and less overt tannins."

Laurence Feraud told me that, for her, 2010 is about dark fruit but with vivacity and spiciness. At the moment, she considers her young 2010s to be "a bit of a hybrid of 2008 for its spice, and 2009 and a bit of 2007 for their power." Conditions were so ideal in 2010 that the Ferauds were able to spread the picking out across an entire month, winding up with a wide range of lots with different personalities. "This made making a Cuvee da Capo a no-brainer," said Laurence, "as it will take nothing away from the quality and personality of the Reservee." Feraud added that the 2010 Capo clocks in at under two grams per liter of residual sugar, by the way. (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; J et R Selections, Bloomfield Hills, MI)

Laurence Feraud told me that, for her, 2010 is about dark fruit but with vivacity and spiciness. At the moment, she considers her young 2010s to be "a bit of a hybrid of 2008 for its spice, and 2009 and a bit of 2007 for their power." Conditions were so ideal in 2010 that the Ferauds were able to spread the picking out across an entire month, winding up with a wide range of lots with different personalities. "This made making a Cuvee da Capo a no-brainer," said Laurence, "as it will take nothing away from the quality and personality of the Reservee." Feraud added that the 2010 Capo clocks in at under two grams per liter of residual sugar, by the way. (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; J et R Selections, Bloomfield Hills, MI)

. Laurence Feraud referred to her Cuvee Laurence as "the house Burgundy" and said that she worried that customers didn't understand that the family's objective was for the wine to be ready to drink on release, not to be stored away for further aging. "Sure, it will age, but I hope that people don't put them away for many years and then drink them with disappointment. It's a great wine to be able to sell to restaurants, which was the original intent of my father." She told me that she believes that "2009 will turn out like 2005, but without the tannins. There's structure and the flavors are well-focused but not too opulent, which will allow them to be drunk after just a bit of aging. They might turn out a lot like 1999, in fact, which is a vintage that was short-changed by a lot of people at first, especially after the craze for the 1998s." Laurence also emphasized that the 2007s are wines that aren't showing very much right now and was insistent that her 2005s should be avoided for the near future "or maybe even longer. They are completely closed and impossible to read now." There appears to be a Da Capo bottling from 2010 on the horizon, by the way, as Laurence believes that the material is there to justify it. (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; J et R Selections, Bloomfield Hills, MI)

. Laurence Feraud referred to her Cuvee Laurence as "the house Burgundy" and said that she worried that customers didn't understand that the family's objective was for the wine to be ready to drink on release, not to be stored away for further aging. "Sure, it will age, but I hope that people don't put them away for many years and then drink them with disappointment. It's a great wine to be able to sell to restaurants, which was the original intent of my father." She told me that she believes that "2009 will turn out like 2005, but without the tannins. There's structure and the flavors are well-focused but not too opulent, which will allow them to be drunk after just a bit of aging. They might turn out a lot like 1999, in fact, which is a vintage that was short-changed by a lot of people at first, especially after the craze for the 1998s." Laurence also emphasized that the 2007s are wines that aren't showing very much right now and was insistent that her 2005s should be avoided for the near future "or maybe even longer. They are completely closed and impossible to read now." There appears to be a Da Capo bottling from 2010 on the horizon, by the way, as Laurence believes that the material is there to justify it. (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; J et R Selections, Bloomfield Hills, MI)

Two thousand eight was the latest harvest of the decade here, according to Laurence Feraud, "and that was good because we needed the maturity after the lousy beginning of September. If you didn't allow your grapes to build up sugar and lose some of the shrill acidity then your wines turned out green and hard, with little fruit." The Ferauds began the 2008 harvest on September 28t and finished during the second week of October. "During the days the temperature went up to 25 degrees [centigrade] and the nights were around 10 degrees and it was dry, so we got a steady increase in ripeness," Laurence noted. Paul Feraud describes 2007 as "a unique vintage, without precedent. The wines seem sweet but they are actually quite dry. The Capo, for instance, is incredibly rich but it has less than 3 grams of sugar." Added Laurence: "It's a fantastic vintage for drinking soon but the wines also have great concentration; the only question is their structure." She also advised drinking the 2006s on the young side "because they are all about fruit," and said that the 2005s are way too tannic to approach any time soon. "We left them in barrel for two years and the tannins never softened," she told me. "The Cuvee Laurence got four years of elevage and it is still an animal." (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J et R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

Two thousand eight was the latest harvest of the decade here, according to Laurence Feraud, "and that was good because we needed the maturity after the lousy beginning of September. If you didn't allow your grapes to build up sugar and lose some of the shrill acidity then your wines turned out green and hard, with little fruit." The Ferauds began the 2008 harvest on September 28t and finished during the second week of October. "During the days the temperature went up to 25 degrees [centigrade] and the nights were around 10 degrees and it was dry, so we got a steady increase in ripeness," Laurence noted. Paul Feraud describes 2007 as "a unique vintage, without precedent. The wines seem sweet but they are actually quite dry. The Capo, for instance, is incredibly rich but it has less than 3 grams of sugar." Added Laurence: "It's a fantastic vintage for drinking soon but the wines also have great concentration; the only question is their structure." She also advised drinking the 2006s on the young side "because they are all about fruit," and said that the 2005s are way too tannic to approach any time soon. "We left them in barrel for two years and the tannins never softened," she told me. "The Cuvee Laurence got four years of elevage and it is still an animal." (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J et R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

Laurence Feraud expresses a different view than most of her colleagues, calling 2005 a winemaker's vintage while describing 2006 as "natural, with clean, fresh fruit and spice-almost Burgundian. Two thousand five started out as all red fruit and 2006 began black and purple, and they both changed completely, coming out with exactly the opposite personalities." She continues to have a soft spot for her 2004, which she says "has the most wonderful spicy character." Feraud told me that there will definitely be a Capo in 2007 and showed me a cask sample of the designated wine, which was way too young to even begin to assess. Incidentally, Laurence and her father Paul playfully argue about what accent mark, if any, the domain name should include, as well as about how the estate should be pronounced. (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J et R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

Laurence Feraud expresses a different view than most of her colleagues, calling 2005 a winemaker's vintage while describing 2006 as "natural, with clean, fresh fruit and spice-almost Burgundian. Two thousand five started out as all red fruit and 2006 began black and purple, and they both changed completely, coming out with exactly the opposite personalities." She continues to have a soft spot for her 2004, which she says "has the most wonderful spicy character." Feraud told me that there will definitely be a Capo in 2007 and showed me a cask sample of the designated wine, which was way too young to even begin to assess. Incidentally, Laurence and her father Paul playfully argue about what accent mark, if any, the domain name should include, as well as about how the estate should be pronounced. (Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J et R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

"Two thousand four is really my style," Laurence Feraud told me in November. "I like the vibrancy, clarity and balance of the vintage. It reminds me of 2001, which I also adore. "As to 2005, Feraud describes it as "all about fruit, red and black. The wine is very fresh and expressive. "The frenzied pursuit by wine collectors of this estate's Da Capo bottling has clearly gotten to Feraud, who has made the decision not to bottle either a 2004 or 2005 version of this super-cuvee-this despite the fact that both vintages are clearly of a quality to warrant it. Her experience dealing with obsessive trophy-hunters chasing her 2003 Capo has clearly weirded her out. "I had people who I've done business with for years, people who I considered friends, saying the most incredibly mean things when they couldn't get more of it," she said. She then regaled me with hair-raising stories of customers who seem incapable of comprehending "non. ""What is it about these people?" she asked. (Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J et R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

"Two thousand four is really my style," Laurence Feraud told me in November. "I like the vibrancy, clarity and balance of the vintage. It reminds me of 2001, which I also adore. "As to 2005, Feraud describes it as "all about fruit, red and black. The wine is very fresh and expressive. "The frenzied pursuit by wine collectors of this estate's Da Capo bottling has clearly gotten to Feraud, who has made the decision not to bottle either a 2004 or 2005 version of this super-cuvee-this despite the fact that both vintages are clearly of a quality to warrant it. Her experience dealing with obsessive trophy-hunters chasing her 2003 Capo has clearly weirded her out. "I had people who I've done business with for years, people who I considered friends, saying the most incredibly mean things when they couldn't get more of it," she said. She then regaled me with hair-raising stories of customers who seem incapable of comprehending "non. ""What is it about these people?" she asked. (Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J et R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

Paul Feraud appears to know each foudre and tank in his sprawling cellar by name.He is also quite willing to offer candid assessments of his wines and to explain the nuances and personalities of each component.The 2003 vintage here is a big success but Feraud clearly struggled with this difficult year."The vintage has an execrable character," was the way he described it to me."It changes from day to day."The estate's 2003 reds were not yet bottled in November and the flagship Cuvee Reservee is scheduled for release in early 2006.In contrast, 2004 was a much easier year in which "the fruit was harvested under exceptional conditions and the wine was a pleasure to make."Feraud told me he wishes his wines were drunk with more bottle age than seems to be the current trend since "you really need to wait at least ten years to get the real aromas of Chateauneuf."(Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

Paul Feraud appears to know each foudre and tank in his sprawling cellar by name.He is also quite willing to offer candid assessments of his wines and to explain the nuances and personalities of each component.The 2003 vintage here is a big success but Feraud clearly struggled with this difficult year."The vintage has an execrable character," was the way he described it to me."It changes from day to day."The estate's 2003 reds were not yet bottled in November and the flagship Cuvee Reservee is scheduled for release in early 2006.In contrast, 2004 was a much easier year in which "the fruit was harvested under exceptional conditions and the wine was a pleasure to make."Feraud told me he wishes his wines were drunk with more bottle age than seems to be the current trend since "you really need to wait at least ten years to get the real aromas of Chateauneuf."(Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA)

This wine was tasted over dinner at Pazo Restaurant in Baltimore, MD.

Laurence Feraud prizes this estate's young 2001s forx000D their classic structure, noting that this vintage will not be drinkablex000D early. At the time of my Novemberx000D visit, she seemed to prefer 2001 to 2000 and 1999, although she told me it wasx000D impossible to make a Da Capo cuvee in 2001. The Pegau wines are throwback, classically made Chateauneuf du Papesx000D with headspinning alcohol levels. Thex000D affable Paul Feraud, Laurence's father, is an oldtimer who is clearly notx000D afraid of volatile acidity levels that would send most of the region'sx000D enologists screaming from his cave. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections,x000D Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA)

Laurence Feraud prizes this estate's young 2001s forx000D their classic structure, noting that this vintage will not be drinkablex000D early. At the time of my Novemberx000D visit, she seemed to prefer 2001 to 2000 and 1999, although she told me it wasx000D impossible to make a Da Capo cuvee in 2001. The Pegau wines are throwback, classically made Chateauneuf du Papesx000D with headspinning alcohol levels. Thex000D affable Paul Feraud, Laurence's father, is an oldtimer who is clearly notx000D afraid of volatile acidity levels that would send most of the region'sx000D enologists screaming from his cave. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections,x000D Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA)

Paul and Laurence Feraud agree that 2000 produced fatter wines than either '99 or '01, and is thus more to their taste, but Laurence also loves the '99 for its acidity and bright fruit character. "The problem was that this vintage began to be sold at the same time as 2000 Bordeaux futures," she noted. At the end of my tasting, I was able to try a very late '97 release, the Cuvee Justine, named after Laurence's daughter. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA)

Paul and Laurence Feraud agree that 2000 produced fatter wines than either '99 or '01, and is thus more to their taste, but Laurence also loves the '99 for its acidity and bright fruit character. "The problem was that this vintage began to be sold at the same time as 2000 Bordeaux futures," she noted. At the end of my tasting, I was able to try a very late '97 release, the Cuvee Justine, named after Laurence's daughter. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA)

"I love the old style of Chateauneuf, with some residual sugar and a bit of volatile acidity to carry the aromas," says Paul Feraud, who with his daughter Laurence makes one of the true throwback wines of the appellation. The Ferauds whacked the ball out of the park in '98, picking superripe fruit at precisely the right moment. New in '98 is the super-cuvee Da Capo, which is obviously from the last foudre I tasted a year ago. This larger-than-life wine is about four times the price of the estate basic cuvee at the cellar door, but the roughly 3,000-bottle production will be strictly allocated. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA)

"I love the old style of Chateauneuf, with some residual sugar and a bit of volatile acidity to carry the aromas," says Paul Feraud, who with his daughter Laurence makes one of the true throwback wines of the appellation. The Ferauds whacked the ball out of the park in '98, picking superripe fruit at precisely the right moment. New in '98 is the super-cuvee Da Capo, which is obviously from the last foudre I tasted a year ago. This larger-than-life wine is about four times the price of the estate basic cuvee at the cellar door, but the roughly 3,000-bottle production will be strictly allocated. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA)

Laurence Feraud, who is developing a website that will illustrate the various cepages and soils of Chateauneuf du Pape, is quite adamant that no single parcel in the appellation can possibly possess the balance, power and elegance to make a complete wine. "Our multiple parcels bring different characteristics, each with strengths and shortcomings," she explained, as she hopped like a lemur across the tops of her large foudres drawing samples. "As good as our piece of La Crau is, for example, we can't really vinify it by itself because the wild yeasts on the grapes can't really chew through all the sugar." Domaine du Pegau did not finish harvesting until October 8 and the end of the harvest was an adventure, as their student pickers, who comprised half the team, had gone back to school. I tasted enough foudres to predict that 1998 will be a great vintage for this property. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI)

Laurence Feraud, who is developing a website that will illustrate the various cepages and soils of Chateauneuf du Pape, is quite adamant that no single parcel in the appellation can possibly possess the balance, power and elegance to make a complete wine. "Our multiple parcels bring different characteristics, each with strengths and shortcomings," she explained, as she hopped like a lemur across the tops of her large foudres drawing samples. "As good as our piece of La Crau is, for example, we can't really vinify it by itself because the wild yeasts on the grapes can't really chew through all the sugar." Domaine du Pegau did not finish harvesting until October 8 and the end of the harvest was an adventure, as their student pickers, who comprised half the team, had gone back to school. I tasted enough foudres to predict that 1998 will be a great vintage for this property. (Dan Kravitz/Hand-Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; J&R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI)

Sitting down with Laurence Féraud is always a pleasure, especially when stellar wines are involved, as was the case during this visit. But first, a bit of news: In 2021, Féraud purchased Domaine Porte Rouge, a small four-hectare winery nestled in the heart of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Féraud’s daughter, Justine Féraud, now oversees the viticulture and winemaking at Domaine Porte, focusing on a low-intervention approach. I had the chance to taste a few barrel samples from this new project—some promising, others less so. Back at Pegau, things started off strong with good to very good 2023 whites and reds. Both the Blanc Cuvée A Tempo and the red Cuvée Réservée show well at this early stage, but the Pegau magic truly came alive when the older vintages began to flow. The elegant 1988 Cuvée Réservée still shines brightly, and the super rare, ravishingly beautiful 1997 Cuvée Justine rendered me speechless. The thrilling 2010 Cuvée Da Capo and the intensely powerful 2010 Cuvée Inspiration left no doubt that Domaine du Pegau belongs at the very top of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape hierarchy.