2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
France
Clos Des Lambrays
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2012
2018 - 2032
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Thierry Brouin's 2012s are magnificent. What about yields? Down an alarming 60% on average. Poor weather during flowering and mildew were devastating. Brouin added that in his view Morey was hit especially hard with both mildew and oidium. Judging by these three gorgeous, highly expressive wines, the little fruit that came in must have been healthy. Once again I left an appointment, this time the last of the day, both inspired by the quality of the wines and stunned by the stark economic reality of the 2012 vintage.
00
2023
2029 - 2065
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Estate director Jacques Devauges greeted me on a rather foggy autumnal morning at Domaine de Lambrays, of course now part of the LVMH “empire” (they had bought the land of Domaine Poisot just a month earlier, though the Poisot family will continue making the wine, which includes Romanée-Saint-Vivant that Devauges used to make when he was at Domaine de l’Arlot). In the meantime, we had the 2023 vintage to examine…
“It has been a very interesting vintage as we had to face unusual challenges – dealing with generous quantities and controlling that. We did a green harvest, which we don’t like to do as you always aim to create a natural balance. But nature decides and made green harvesting necessary. This was done at the end of July. It was hard looking at the bunches on the floor and I wondered if it was a mistake. We left around seven bunches, but it changed depending on the vine. You need a knowledgeable team to do that.”
“The season was sunny with sufficient water at every key step of the way,” he continued. “Budburst was April 7 and flowering June 7. We had very good conditions – it was sunny and dry. Afterwards there was a good amount of rain, then it returned to dry weather until the beginning of July. It began to rain just when the berries were growing [which made them larger than normal in size]. At the end of August, it turned a bit cold and not very sunny, plus it was a little humid. At that point, I was expecting a vintage a bit like 2011, a bit early and not necessarily ripe. Then the weather changed. It was sunny and very warm so that finally, we ended up something more like 2018. I called my pickers and asked them to come earlier and we started picking the reds on September 7. The whites began on September 1.”
I ask Devauges his opinion on the vintage. “I think 2023 will be heterogenous with a diversity in style due to the volume of grapes. You know, the Grand Crus in Morey-Saint-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny asked the INAO to increase the maximum legal yield for the Grand Cru. Clos des Lambrays was the only Grand Cru that didn’t. We finished at 41 hl/ha, so we were successful in balancing the volume in the end.”
This is always a fascinating visit. I always look forward to my exchanges with Devauges, this year, discussing the influence of whole bunches. Readers can see the percentage of stems per cuvée in the tasting notes, but it is interesting to note that the 11 parcels that combine to form the Clos de Lambrays include everything from totally destemmed fruit to 100% whole bunch. I feel that the stems swayed the Clos Baulets whereas the Clos Sorbet assimilated them far better.
00
2022
2029 - 2065
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Having written about the head-to-toe reconstruction of Domaine des Lambrays after it was sold to LVMH in 2014, I will not repeat details of the new winery; readers can refer to last year’s Burgundy report. Jacques Devauges was appointed director of the Domaine and oversaw a revised approach to Clos des Lambrays. This included dividing the clos into separate cuvées to be vinified separately and incrementally expanding holdings, albeit relatively tiny in nature (see below).
“I was ready to start earlier according to the flowering date,” Devauges tells me down in the expanded L-shaped barrel cellar that’s come in useful with the extra cuvées and plenitudes of the last two harvests. “But due to drought, the maturity was not as fast as expected, so I delayed and delayed, eventually starting September 1 and finishing on September 8; the whites picked August 29 and 30. We cropped at 30hL/ha, which is the average in recent years. For your information, the 2021s will be released with the 2022s. It’s the first year officially certified organic vintage with ECOCERT, though this will not be printed on the label. It is also the first vinified in the new winery using gravity and cylindrical tanks. Plus, we have four new cuvées, although two will not be commercialized [Nuits Saint-Georges Cras and Les Murgers, which I advised Devauges to hold back and release with a bit of bottle age, lest they are guzzled in infancy]. The two new cuvées that will be released are Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbet and Clos Baulet, which are sited just in front of the domaine. Domaine de Lambrays owned them until 1980, when the Cosson family sold the estate but kept those parcels. Etienne Cosson, who lives in the village, then sold these parcels back to LVMH in 2022 when he took his retirement. So, effectively, they are reunited after 41 years.”
Those two new additions in Morey are worth seeking out: propitiously located and evincing assiduous use of stems. Beyond the Clos des Lambrays, the stellar Nuits Saint-Georges La Richemone had me grabbing for superlatives with the hubris to outshine the Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts. The Clos des Lambrays itself was, in fact, tasted on two separate occasions, the first vintage to include the parcel known as “30 Rangs”. I thought it tasted better the second time during a vertical tasting going back an entire century, which will be published on Vinous in early 2024.
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2021
2027 - 2052
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2021
2027 - 2052
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It is an extended visit to Domaine des Lambrays with Jacques Devauges. Following its acquisition by LVMH, they embarked upon expanding what was always a very limited portfolio by negotiating some contracts that were coming up for expiry with Frédéric Esmonin and Christophe Perrot-Minot (though before you ask, Perrot-Minot still has a parcel in Le Richemone, so it is not about to disappear from his portfolio.) For all the handwringing about luxury brands taking over Domaine, what cannot be denied is that they have done a brilliant job in rebuilding the winery so that it achieves an almost cathedral-like aura, one end of the vat-room with an enormous arched paned window showcasing the magnificent outside, as if keeping constant watch from outside. Devauges demonstrates the innovative wooden vats that eschew the idea of troconic vats that slant inwards. These bespoke vessels are perfectly straight. Each vat contains metal plates that can be manually inserted and moved, like miniature radiators, designed to control the temperature. Devauges tells me how he wished to use wooden vats rather than stainless steel as the latter tend to be too reactive to temperatures. He also shows how the wine is transferred from the ground-level cuverie to the expanded barrel cellar below using large vats that ostensibly act like elevators, going up and down mechanically using pullies, thereby obviating the complete use of pumps, something that I first witnessed at Cos d’Estournel a few years ago.
“It was a vintage of contrast. February and March were warm, 20° Celsius on 20 February and then warm at the end of March, so bud burst was the first days of April. Then 6-8 April saw frost with snow on 7 April. We lost 75% of grapes in Puligny-Montrachet and 50% in Morey-Saint-Denis. After this, the vines were stuck – they were shocked. It took three weeks for them to recover, and the growing season recommenced in May. Flowering was on 15 June. July and August were not exceptional; they were overcast, with more rain than we would wish. Consequently, there was high mildew and oïdium pressure. So I am happy about the small tractors, and in our second year of biodynamic, using artisan teas, we did a good job. But it was some challenge.”
“Finally, we had a miracle. The north wind came back, and September was sunny and dry. In 2021, thanks to the small crop, 50% of usual, those conditions could reach a good level of maturity. We harvested the surviving grapes from 22 September to 27 September, and these were very healthy – six days of picking, as we didn’t pick too fast. It’s normally around eight days. For the vinification, from a small crop, I wanted to vinify my 11 different cuvées as usual, the smallest being two barrels, whilst maintaining my principle of whole bunches. In the end, the Clos des Lambrays is 80% whole bunches, with only [the lieu-dit] La Plante used partial whole bunches. The wines were a bit closed at first, but they opened and remind me of 2010 in terms of their evolution in barrel…not to imply they are the same quality. Therefore, I am not going to hurry in bottle. I am convinced the 2021 Clos des Lambrays will age for a long time.”
There is no question that this is a fired-up Domaine. It has a spring in its step. Gazing upon the new winery and refurbished maison, nobody can deny that money’s no object, yet the underlying motives for the changes are functionality in the winery and tasteful aesthetic improvements. All that was missing were a few additional parcels, which has been addressed with an expanded number of crus in 2021, with 2022 offering more. The 2021s are exquisitely crafted with an exceptional Domaine des Lambrays, tasted both as a final blend and from five individual lieux-dits, though there are more than that number. I am also impressed by their maiden Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts, although volume is excruciatingly small at around 450 bottles. Whereas their wines were rather rustic, occasionally green, intermittently sublime, these are more concentrated and sensual despite the growing season. We just await to see what happens with prices.
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2020
2030 - 2060
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2020
2026 - 2055
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2020
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2019
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2019
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2019
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2019
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It’s always handy having Burgundy winemakers on speed dial. In the event of arriving at a winery only to discover that they thought the tasting was the following day, you can make a quick call and shoot up the road for an impromptu dégustation. That’s exactly what happened here. As it was my final rendezvous of the day, Jacques Desvauges, who took over from Bruno Champy on 1 March 2019, had time to explain everything happening at Domaine des Lambrays. Which is a lot.
“I think in 2019 we made many changes,” he began. “But you have to be careful what you change. You have to respect that, and yet every domaine has to challenge itself to do better than the year before. With 2019 we made a couple of important changes, the most important in the vineyard. We converted to 100% organic - no more chemicals. For us it has been hard because the vineyard is steep and the rows are perpendicular to the incline. It is better to spray the two sides [of the vine] at the same time, but since one side [of the ground] is higher than the other, there is no tractor that can do that. [It would topple over – a risk that has taken the life of more than one winemaker over the years.] We found a factory in Mâconnais that could build a specially made sprayer for us and this was first used in 2020. We also plough all the vines and that has been a huge amount of work because the tools are manufactured for use on flat land. So at least once a year every vine must be dug by hand.” We then discussed how they approach the vineyard in terms of sub-plots. “You can walk through the vineyard and feel the diversity between different sectors in terms of altitude, soil and geology. I wanted to understand this diversity better and I introduced a parcellaire approach, vinifying separate sub-plots in small tanks. Clos des Lambrays used to be fermented in 84-hectoliter tanks and barrelled down as one cuvée, whereas now there are now 11 cuvées that will be blended just prior to bottling. These changes were inspired by old bottles of Clos des Lambrays such as the 1918, which is spectacular. I also believe in using all the vineyard in the final blend except the 30 rows of young vines under 20 years old.”
Broaching the subject of the 2019 vintage that marks Desvauges’s debut in that he had total responsibility, the told me: “The 2019 is a small vintage in terms of volume, 21hl/ha for the Village Cru, 20h/ha for the Premier Cru and just 15hl/ha for the Grand Cru. That is because of turning organic and three major reasons during the growing season: the cold conditions during flowering that caused coulure, the fortnight of heat that stressed the vines that encouraged them to preserve their sap for the leaves instead of expanding the berries and thirdly, the warm wind that lasted four or five days that increased the rate of evaporation. We harvested the whites from 7 September and the reds from 13 September until 18 September. One thing that was noticeable is that in general 2019 was affected by drought in August and you could see the yellowing of leaves. But in Morey we had 52mm of rain on 3/4 and 16/17 August, which was more than other appellations.”
Tasting the three cuvées of the 2019 vintage, Village, Premier and Grand Cru, I felt there was a big step up between the first two. The Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is exceptionally good and that was clear to see when Desvauges poured the 2017 and 2018 to compare. There just seems to be more depth and definitely more precision. It has more grip and density, partly due to concentration of fruit but also for a judicious increase in percentage of new oak (François Frères.) The 2019 vintage is the perfect way for Desvauges to open his account. What lies in the future? Well, following our tasting he took me for a quick peek at the enormous excavation where, just like down the road at Dujac though on a bigger scale thanks to LVMH’s deep pockets (and a bit of one-upmanship against Clos de Tart’s own rebirth) they plan a gravity-fed winery with secret innovations that Desvauges is clearly excited about.
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2018
2028 - 2055
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2018
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It’s always handy having Burgundy winemakers on speed dial. In the event of arriving at a winery only to discover that they thought the tasting was the following day, you can make a quick call and shoot up the road for an impromptu dégustation. That’s exactly what happened here. As it was my final rendezvous of the day, Jacques Desvauges, who took over from Bruno Champy on 1 March 2019, had time to explain everything happening at Domaine des Lambrays. Which is a lot.
“I think in 2019 we made many changes,” he began. “But you have to be careful what you change. You have to respect that, and yet every domaine has to challenge itself to do better than the year before. With 2019 we made a couple of important changes, the most important in the vineyard. We converted to 100% organic - no more chemicals. For us it has been hard because the vineyard is steep and the rows are perpendicular to the incline. It is better to spray the two sides [of the vine] at the same time, but since one side [of the ground] is higher than the other, there is no tractor that can do that. [It would topple over – a risk that has taken the life of more than one winemaker over the years.] We found a factory in Mâconnais that could build a specially made sprayer for us and this was first used in 2020. We also plough all the vines and that has been a huge amount of work because the tools are manufactured for use on flat land. So at least once a year every vine must be dug by hand.” We then discussed how they approach the vineyard in terms of sub-plots. “You can walk through the vineyard and feel the diversity between different sectors in terms of altitude, soil and geology. I wanted to understand this diversity better and I introduced a parcellaire approach, vinifying separate sub-plots in small tanks. Clos des Lambrays used to be fermented in 84-hectoliter tanks and barrelled down as one cuvée, whereas now there are now 11 cuvées that will be blended just prior to bottling. These changes were inspired by old bottles of Clos des Lambrays such as the 1918, which is spectacular. I also believe in using all the vineyard in the final blend except the 30 rows of young vines under 20 years old.”
Broaching the subject of the 2019 vintage that marks Desvauges’s debut in that he had total responsibility, the told me: “The 2019 is a small vintage in terms of volume, 21hl/ha for the Village Cru, 20h/ha for the Premier Cru and just 15hl/ha for the Grand Cru. That is because of turning organic and three major reasons during the growing season: the cold conditions during flowering that caused coulure, the fortnight of heat that stressed the vines that encouraged them to preserve their sap for the leaves instead of expanding the berries and thirdly, the warm wind that lasted four or five days that increased the rate of evaporation. We harvested the whites from 7 September and the reds from 13 September until 18 September. One thing that was noticeable is that in general 2019 was affected by drought in August and you could see the yellowing of leaves. But in Morey we had 52mm of rain on 3/4 and 16/17 August, which was more than other appellations.”
Tasting the three cuvées of the 2019 vintage, Village, Premier and Grand Cru, I felt there was a big step up between the first two. The Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is exceptionally good and that was clear to see when Desvauges poured the 2017 and 2018 to compare. There just seems to be more depth and definitely more precision. It has more grip and density, partly due to concentration of fruit but also for a judicious increase in percentage of new oak (François Frères.) The 2019 vintage is the perfect way for Desvauges to open his account. What lies in the future? Well, following our tasting he took me for a quick peek at the enormous excavation where, just like down the road at Dujac though on a bigger scale thanks to LVMH’s deep pockets (and a bit of one-upmanship against Clos de Tart’s own rebirth) they plan a gravity-fed winery with secret innovations that Desvauges is clearly excited about.
00
2018
2023 - 2042
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The comical moment of my Burgundy marathon came at Domaine des Lambrays, when Jacques Desvauges wryly mentioned that three winemakers had a hand in the making of the 2017. Thierry Brouin had guided the wines through the growing season, then Boris Champy oversaw the racking and élevage, to be replaced by Desvauges for the bottling. People speak of the "Morey merry-go-round". Desvauges was clearly happy to have moved across the road from Clos de Tart and as I will detail, he has the freedom to introduce changes as he sees fit. This translates into the barrel cellar. I was fascinated to find that the barrels are arranged in accordance with the layout of the parcels within the almost-monopole, those nearest to the stairs from the lower parts of the vineyard and those at the far end from the upper contours. Interestingly, he found that this geographic organisation revealed patters in terms of how barrel behave, those from the bottom of the vineyard commencing their malolactic together and then gradually starting further and further down to those barrels from the upper sections. “I started working here on 1 March and so far, so good," he told me. "It’s a great opportunity. I’ve been honest explaining my view and perspective how to manage a domaine and it fitted their vision. The quality comes from the vineyard. The next step is to turn organic and biodynamic. If we can do this, it’s thanks to the efforts of Thierry Brouin over the last 38 years. Every domaine has to challenge themselves to do better. The vineyard is perpendicular to the slope so there is no machine to spray, so we had to design a prototype tractor. I asked for Ecocert certification so we are on the first year of conversion. I am a great fan of whole bunches, so that will remain. But we have already made changes. We will install smaller tanks to make small cuvées to make a parcellaire approach for the simple reason that when you walk into the vineyard you can see the heterogeneity with the sensitive Pinot Noir. There are 11 cuvées in 2019 harvest and they are aged separately and blended before bottling. We picked the reds from 25 August until 3 September, the whites on 27 August. Budburst was mid-April like normal, but after it was rainy and warm so the vines grew very vast. You come back at the weekend and the vines needed to be managed. The vines were three weeks in advance by the end of May. Yields are reasonable around 36hl/ha for the Clos des Lambrays and 45hl/ha for the Premier Cru and Village Cru. I think 2018 will be a fascinating vintage as there is variation for the yields, harvest date and vinification was challenging due to some cuvées did not want to finish their sugars, especially for the last tanks. The alcoholic fermentation was not problematic." The 2018s show promise and will not present any radical changes for those accustomed to the traditional style of Domaine des Lambrays.
00
2017
2025 - 2048
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00
2017
2023 - 2040
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It’s always handy having Burgundy winemakers on speed dial. In the event of arriving at a winery only to discover that they thought the tasting was the following day, you can make a quick call and shoot up the road for an impromptu dégustation. That’s exactly what happened here. As it was my final rendezvous of the day, Jacques Desvauges, who took over from Bruno Champy on 1 March 2019, had time to explain everything happening at Domaine des Lambrays. Which is a lot.
“I think in 2019 we made many changes,” he began. “But you have to be careful what you change. You have to respect that, and yet every domaine has to challenge itself to do better than the year before. With 2019 we made a couple of important changes, the most important in the vineyard. We converted to 100% organic - no more chemicals. For us it has been hard because the vineyard is steep and the rows are perpendicular to the incline. It is better to spray the two sides [of the vine] at the same time, but since one side [of the ground] is higher than the other, there is no tractor that can do that. [It would topple over – a risk that has taken the life of more than one winemaker over the years.] We found a factory in Mâconnais that could build a specially made sprayer for us and this was first used in 2020. We also plough all the vines and that has been a huge amount of work because the tools are manufactured for use on flat land. So at least once a year every vine must be dug by hand.” We then discussed how they approach the vineyard in terms of sub-plots. “You can walk through the vineyard and feel the diversity between different sectors in terms of altitude, soil and geology. I wanted to understand this diversity better and I introduced a parcellaire approach, vinifying separate sub-plots in small tanks. Clos des Lambrays used to be fermented in 84-hectoliter tanks and barrelled down as one cuvée, whereas now there are now 11 cuvées that will be blended just prior to bottling. These changes were inspired by old bottles of Clos des Lambrays such as the 1918, which is spectacular. I also believe in using all the vineyard in the final blend except the 30 rows of young vines under 20 years old.”
Broaching the subject of the 2019 vintage that marks Desvauges’s debut in that he had total responsibility, the told me: “The 2019 is a small vintage in terms of volume, 21hl/ha for the Village Cru, 20h/ha for the Premier Cru and just 15hl/ha for the Grand Cru. That is because of turning organic and three major reasons during the growing season: the cold conditions during flowering that caused coulure, the fortnight of heat that stressed the vines that encouraged them to preserve their sap for the leaves instead of expanding the berries and thirdly, the warm wind that lasted four or five days that increased the rate of evaporation. We harvested the whites from 7 September and the reds from 13 September until 18 September. One thing that was noticeable is that in general 2019 was affected by drought in August and you could see the yellowing of leaves. But in Morey we had 52mm of rain on 3/4 and 16/17 August, which was more than other appellations.”
Tasting the three cuvées of the 2019 vintage, Village, Premier and Grand Cru, I felt there was a big step up between the first two. The Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is exceptionally good and that was clear to see when Desvauges poured the 2017 and 2018 to compare. There just seems to be more depth and definitely more precision. It has more grip and density, partly due to concentration of fruit but also for a judicious increase in percentage of new oak (François Frères.) The 2019 vintage is the perfect way for Desvauges to open his account. What lies in the future? Well, following our tasting he took me for a quick peek at the enormous excavation where, just like down the road at Dujac though on a bigger scale thanks to LVMH’s deep pockets (and a bit of one-upmanship against Clos de Tart’s own rebirth) they plan a gravity-fed winery with secret innovations that Desvauges is clearly excited about.
00
2017
2023 - 2040
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The comical moment of my Burgundy marathon came at Domaine des Lambrays, when Jacques Desvauges wryly mentioned that three winemakers had a hand in the making of the 2017. Thierry Brouin had guided the wines through the growing season, then Boris Champy oversaw the racking and élevage, to be replaced by Desvauges for the bottling. People speak of the "Morey merry-go-round". Desvauges was clearly happy to have moved across the road from Clos de Tart and as I will detail, he has the freedom to introduce changes as he sees fit. This translates into the barrel cellar. I was fascinated to find that the barrels are arranged in accordance with the layout of the parcels within the almost-monopole, those nearest to the stairs from the lower parts of the vineyard and those at the far end from the upper contours. Interestingly, he found that this geographic organisation revealed patters in terms of how barrel behave, those from the bottom of the vineyard commencing their malolactic together and then gradually starting further and further down to those barrels from the upper sections. “I started working here on 1 March and so far, so good," he told me. "It’s a great opportunity. I’ve been honest explaining my view and perspective how to manage a domaine and it fitted their vision. The quality comes from the vineyard. The next step is to turn organic and biodynamic. If we can do this, it’s thanks to the efforts of Thierry Brouin over the last 38 years. Every domaine has to challenge themselves to do better. The vineyard is perpendicular to the slope so there is no machine to spray, so we had to design a prototype tractor. I asked for Ecocert certification so we are on the first year of conversion. I am a great fan of whole bunches, so that will remain. But we have already made changes. We will install smaller tanks to make small cuvées to make a parcellaire approach for the simple reason that when you walk into the vineyard you can see the heterogeneity with the sensitive Pinot Noir. There are 11 cuvées in 2019 harvest and they are aged separately and blended before bottling. We picked the reds from 25 August until 3 September, the whites on 27 August. Budburst was mid-April like normal, but after it was rainy and warm so the vines grew very vast. You come back at the weekend and the vines needed to be managed. The vines were three weeks in advance by the end of May. Yields are reasonable around 36hl/ha for the Clos des Lambrays and 45hl/ha for the Premier Cru and Village Cru. I think 2018 will be a fascinating vintage as there is variation for the yields, harvest date and vinification was challenging due to some cuvées did not want to finish their sugars, especially for the last tanks. The alcoholic fermentation was not problematic." The 2018s show promise and will not present any radical changes for those accustomed to the traditional style of Domaine des Lambrays.
00
2017
2020 - 2050
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Marathon man Boris Champy is now at the helm of Domaine des Lambrays following what seemed like a very prolonged retirement of the much-loved Thierry Brouin. I was not the only person to observe that Champy has the same insouciance and wry sense of humour as his predecessor. I also observed how relaxed he seems in his role, partly because his paymasters, the luxury brand LVMH, appear to let him get on with his job, make any changes he feels would benefit the wines and make the crucial on-the-ground decisions fundamental to running a Burgundy estate. The buck stops with Boris. For example, he explained how they send 100 bottles to a laboratory to check there is no peroxide taint on the cork, even though they produce just 4,000 bottles in total. It shows how they are putting the consumer first.
We commence with their two lesser-known whites. “Thierry Brouin’s approach was to pick the Puligny on the early side, and I will continue,” Champy explained. “You could see in the last week of August that the vineyard started to suffer, so we clearly wanted to keep some freshness. I found that Clos du Cailleret suffered less than Les Folatières. I knew when I had to pick by examining and judging the three rows close to the wall that are protected from the sun. We picked on August 31 for Les Folatières and the following day in Clos de Cailleret. We have to be precise in vinification for the whites, especially in terms of oxygen. They were both bottled in mid-October.”
We then moved on to the reds, and Champy advised how yield control has become important in the last couple of vintages. “We have entered a new era of yield control. Between 2008 and 2015 there were no big harvests. Then in 2016, Thierry Brouin did a green harvest, and we did some in 2017 and 2018. Our vineyard is now 75 years old. No fertilizer has been used for 20 years, so it is not a vigorous vineyard and we can aim for around 35hl/ha. It is a classic modern vintage with slightly less acidity, more like 2006 or 2015, good colour and aromatics.”
The two whites are excellent, in particular a very impressive Puligny-Montrachet Clos de Cailleret. The Clos des Lambrays, picked September 3–11, is classic in style and very pure. Occasionally I felt that Brouin did not achieve phenolic maturity, as demonstrated by a recent and almost undrinkable magnum of 2004. However, there is no evidence of that here, and I think Champy knows that Clos des Lambrays would benefit from a slightly later ripening – just a day or two – in order to gain more density without compromising its style. Then maybe they can replicate the legendary wines of the 1940s and 1950s.
00
2016
2023 - 2045
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2016
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I tasted in January with long-time estate manager Thierry Brouin, who will be retiring this spring, and his successor Boris Champy, who hails from Champagne but spent the early part of his career working for the Moueix family in Bordeaux and Napa Valley (Champy was the winemaker at Dominus Estate from 1997 to 2007) and since then had served as technical director for Domaine Louis Latour in Aloxe-Corton. Champy, who started here in June of 2017, finds that the estate’s 2015s have more grip than their ’16s, as well as slightly lower pHs. He believes that 2016 will be easier to drink early. Clos des Lambrays had very good yields in ’16, said Champy, with just a bit of frost in some village vines located just below the forest. Brouin expressed the opinion that 2016 would be for drinking before 2015, "just as ’06 is more accessible at this stage than ’05."
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2015
2022 - 2050
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2015
2027 - 2043
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I tasted in January with long-time estate manager Thierry Brouin, who will be retiring this spring, and his successor Boris Champy, who hails from Champagne but spent the early part of his career working for the Moueix family in Bordeaux and Napa Valley (Champy was the winemaker at Dominus Estate from 1997 to 2007) and since then had served as technical director for Domaine Louis Latour in Aloxe-Corton. Champy, who started here in June of 2017, finds that the estate’s 2015s have more grip than their ’16s, as well as slightly lower pHs. He believes that 2016 will be easier to drink early. Clos des Lambrays had very good yields in ’16, said Champy, with just a bit of frost in some village vines located just below the forest. Brouin expressed the opinion that 2016 would be for drinking before 2015, "just as ’06 is more accessible at this stage than ’05."
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2015
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Thierry Brouin, who is in the midst of interviewing candidates to succeed him at Clos des Lambrays after his impending retirement, told me that “the main characteristic of 2015 is energy.” He began the harvest early, on September 3, and carried out his normal fermentations, which includes doing a total of five punchdowns during the first six days. The malos finished early, by the end of December of ’15, and the wines were racked in March. At the time of my December tasting they were a bit tight and in need of breathing; Brouin expected to bottle them in March. Incidentally, Domaine des Lambrays produced an average of 32 hectoliters per hectare in 2015, or about 10% less than in 2014. But the estate had a good crop in 2016, said Brouin, as the village of Morey-Saint-Denis was “completely spared by the frost.”
00
2014
2023 - 2030
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2014
2020 - 2045
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2014
2023 - 2034
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“The 2014s have flesh, especially the Clos,” said Thierry Brouin in December “The wines are very good but not great,” he summarized, adding that they were hard to taste after the estate’s 2015s, which combine greater sweetness of fruit and terrific sappy energy
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2014
2023 - 2034
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“The 2014s have flesh, especially the Clos,” said Thierry Brouin in December. “The wines are very good but not great,” he summarized, adding that they were hard to taste after the estate’s 2015s, which combine greater sweetness of fruit and terrific sappy energy.
00
2014
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Two thousand thirteen produced a more elegant style of Clos des Lambrays, said estate manager Thierry Brouin, but the very sweet, pliant 2014 is no slouch. Brouin harvested rather late, beginning on September 20, which he described as "later than my average." The estate's flagship grand cru bottling began with 12. 5% potential alcohol, but Brouin emphasized that this was after the pink grapes were eliminated on the sorting table. I was struck by the energy of the estate's whites from the 2014 vintage and have provided notes here.
00
2013
2022 - 2035
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2013
2021 - 2038
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2013
2025 - 2038
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Estate manager Thierry Brouin finds the 2013 Clos des Lambrays more elegant than the 2014. He did a shorter maceration than usual. Brouin destemmed his village fruit entirely (the grand cru is still made entirely with whole clusters), with the fermentation taking place in a revolving vat.
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2013
2023 - 2040
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The harvest here began on October 3, the earliest in 25 years, said estate manager Thierry Brouin. The team eliminated "about 1% green grapes" at harvest-time, said Brouin, and also made about 20 hectoliters of rose from the less-ripe grapes. The result was a potential alcohol level of 12.8% after the selection, according to Brouin. Total maceration time was held to two weeks "as we neded to get the wines off their skins and stems quickly" (the 2013s were vinified with 100% whole clusters). "Two thousand twelve is a great Pinot Noir vintage," said Brouhin, "but 2013 really shows the character of the clos." Brouin expected to rack the 2013s into vats by the end of December (they finished their malos last January) and then bottle them in late February or early March. Long-time fans of the Clos des Lambrays, which has always been very different from the higher-alcohol, later-harvested and considerably more expensive Clos de Tart, will be happy to know that Brouin has agreed to stay on for at least three more years following the sale of the Domaine des Lambrays to LVMH in April of 2014.
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2012
2025 - 2040
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2012
2024 - 2036
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As I noted in my report on the 2013s, Thierry Brouin characterized 2012 as "a great pinot year," which is not to say that it's an outstanding vintage of terroir. In fact, he told me, in early blind tastings he had trouble recognizing the Clos des Lambrays. The 2012 growing season, said Brouin, featured a bad flowering, some hail damage, mildew on the grape bunches, oidium and some sunburned grapes--"everything except rot."
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2012
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Thierry Brouin told me he carried out a "gray harvest" to get rid of oidium-affected fruit 12 days before the 2012 harvest, and ultimately made 56% less wine than average.With just the best and ripest grapes used in 2012, the Clos des Lambrays will go into bottle with 14.5% alcohol, a record here.The wines still need more elevage to refine their tannins, said Brouin, who planned to rack them into large vats in January and then bottle in March."It's one of my best vintages in the last 20 years," Brouin told me, "but the wines may be a bit too rich and ripe to really communicate their terroir.The 2011s may be more transparent to site."Brouin does five or six punchdowns daily during the peak period of the fermentation.
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2011
2019 - 2029
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2011
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2011
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The 2011 fruit from the Clos had 12.5% potential alcohol, but if regisseur Thierry Brouin hadn't eliminated up to 20% of the grapes it would have been more like 11.5%. The crop level was a low 31 hectoliters per hectare, but that was up 10% from 2010. As usual, the estate harvested much earlier than its grand cru neighbor Clos de Tart, beginning on September 1. Brouin did 5 punchdowns per day during the first 5 days of the fermentation, then 3 or 4 after that. He also uses rotating vats that do 2 turns per day for the first 12 days of fermentation. Brouin noted that the 2011 and 2010 Clos de Lambrays are completely different in style. "The 2011 is very demonstrative of the site's black fruits and spices, while the 2010 is more dominated by the vintage character."
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2010
2024 - 2038
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2010
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2010
2018 - 2033
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Domaine des Lambrays's 2010s are outstanding. Yields were down approximately 30% mostly because of the irregular flowering, recounts estate manager Thierry Brouin. The Morey villages was made from entirely destemmed fruit, while the Loups and Clos des Lambrays were vinified with 100% whole bunches. The wine saw approximately 15 days of cuvaison with 5-6 pigeages a day. The wines were chaptalized a little less than one degree.
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2010
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I heard a story from a grower in Morey-Saint-Denis about a well-heeled but inexperienced wine drinker who went into a wine shop in Paris seeking to buy six bottles of Clos des Lambrays and six bottles of Clos de Tart. The merchant informed him that the price of the Clos des Lambrays was 90 euros, and the Clos de Tart was 300. "In that case," said the consumer, "give me 12 bottles of the Clos de Tart." That's a pretty good illustration of what's going on around the world these days with top Burgundy grand crus, with relative neophytes frequently believing that if the wine is not wildly expensive it can't possibly be very good. But the price difference between these two distinctive Morey-Saint-Denis bottlings has rarely been justified, and 2010 looks to be a strong vintage here. Thierry Brouin began harvesting on September 22, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol in the 11.8% to 12.5% range, with the average yield just 25 hectoliters per hectare owing to difficult conditions during the flowering. He told me he does "a lot of pigeages" during the tumultuous first several days of the fermentations.
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2009
2022 - 2034
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2009
2019 - 2029
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I found the 2009s from Clos des Lambrays showed much better from bottle than they did when I tasted them from barrel.
00
2009
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2009
2013 - 2021
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Clos des Lambrays is one of the very few estates I visited that had a hard time in 2009. The estate was particularly affected by hail in May. As Thierry Brouin describes it, Morey was the village that was hit hardest by hail and within Morey, the Clos was the most affected vineyard. Yields were still a reasonable 30 hectoliters per hectare, still quite a bit lower than most other producers enjoyed in this abundant harvest. The estate does not use herbicides or pesticides, and two-thirds of the parcels are worked by horse. In 2009 the harvest started on September 10. The wines were vinified in stainless steel with 100% whole bunches. I tasted the 2009s from tank, where they awaited bottling, scheduled for late March 2011. Overall, I have to say I found the 2008s quite a bit more interesting. Readers will find notes on those wines on this site.
00
2009
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Thierry Brouin told me he was the first to harvest in Morey-Saint-Denis in 2009, beginning on September 10, as the hail in May limited yields to about 32 hectoliters per hectare and allowed for earlier picking. Brouin describes the 2009s as a blend of 2005 and 1999, although he allowed that the 2009s may be "easier." Thanks to the ripe stems (Brouin vinifies entirely with whole clusters), he did a lot of pigeages (five punchdowns per day for the first five or six days of the fermentation). The malos finished by February and the wines were racked in March.
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2008
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2008
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Thierry Brouin oversaw a strict sorting in 2008 that produced 4,600 bottles of rose and allowed him to vinify his red wines with 100% whole clusters and healthy potential alcohol levels ranging from 12.5% to 13.2%. The flagship Clos des Lambrays represents a production level of just 26 hectoliters per hectare and is 13.1% alcohol with "just about no chaptalization." The wines were racked after the malos finished in May and were slated to be racked again in December. Brouin makes every year's wines essentially the same way, although he did a slightly shorter vinification in 2008. "We want every vintage to taste like its season," he explained to me, adding that "we make the kind of wines we like to drink." He is confident that the 2008s are balanced for long aging.
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2007
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Thierry Brouin oversaw a strict sorting in 2008 that produced 4,600 bottles of rose and allowed him to vinify his red wines with 100% whole clusters and healthy potential alcohol levels ranging from 12.5% to 13.2%. The flagship Clos des Lambrays represents a production level of just 26 hectoliters per hectare and is 13.1% alcohol with "just about no chaptalization." The wines were racked after the malos finished in May and were slated to be racked again in December. Brouin makes every year's wines essentially the same way, although he did a slightly shorter vinification in 2008. "We want every vintage to taste like its season," he explained to me, adding that "we make the kind of wines we like to drink." He is confident that the 2008s are balanced for long aging.
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2007
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There were a lot of grayish-blue grapes in 2006 as this estate does not use anti-rot sprays after July, and thus the sorting was critical, noted Thierry Brouin. It was also necessary to extract slowly and softly. Yields were in the low 27 hectoliters-per-hectare range, as in 2006, and compared to the healthy 40 h/h of the ideal 2005 growing season. Brouin believes 2007 will be a pleasant vintage of modest depth, for drinking on the young side.
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2006
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There were a lot of grayish-blue grapes in 2006 as this estate does not use anti-rot sprays after July, and thus the sorting was critical, noted Thierry Brouin. It was also necessary to extract slowly and softly. Yields were in the low 27 hectoliters-per-hectare range, as in 2006, and compared to the healthy 40 h/h of the ideal 2005 growing season. Brouin believes 2007 will be a pleasant vintage of modest depth, for drinking on the young side.
00
2006
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Production here was just 26 hectoliters per hectare in 2006, noted Thierry Brouin, who started harvesting before the official ban de vendange with potential alcohol between 12.5% and 13% and chaptalized his wines to about 13.5%. "I like the classic style of the year," Brouin told me. "The wines are not as huge or vibrant as the '05s, and they're a bit less spicy than the '04s but with similar tannin levels. I like each vintage to be different." Brouin puts the uncrushed berries into the vat by gravity to avoid breaking the skins. By vinifying with the stems, he says, the temperature mounts slowly and the wine stays warm longer. Fermentation here typically lasts two full weeks, with the temperature climbing to 34oC.
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2005
2020 - 2035
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2005
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Production here was just 26 hectoliters per hectare in 2006, noted Thierry Brouin, who started harvesting before the official ban de vendange with potential alcohol between 12.5% and 13% and chaptalized his wines to about 13.5%. "I like the classic style of the year," Brouin told me. "The wines are not as huge or vibrant as the '05s, and they're a bit less spicy than the '04s but with similar tannin levels. I like each vintage to be different." Brouin puts the uncrushed berries into the vat by gravity to avoid breaking the skins. By vinifying with the stems, he says, the temperature mounts slowly and the wine stays warm longer. Fermentation here typically lasts two full weeks, with the temperature climbing to 34oC.
00
2005
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Thierry Brouin noted that this property should be considered an archetypical Morey-Saint-Denis because it lies in the center of the village at the end of a small combe (a notch in the hills to the west). "Never red berries here, only blackberry and blueberry," he noted. Brouin pointed out a couple of key differences between Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart. For starters, Brouin leaves eight clusters per vine, vs. five or six for Clos de Tart. He also generally picks five or six days earlier, despite having larger crop levels, with the result that grape sugars are more moderate. In 2005 he did a bit of chaptalization (potential alcohol was in the 12.5% to 13% range), no cold soak and no heating of the must at the end of the fermentation. He vinified only whole clusters, and carried out five punch-downs per day, with the cuvaison lasting two weeks. All of the young-vines juice in the Clos was declassified into the premier cru Les Loups. (Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA) Also recommended: Morey-Saint-Denis (86).
00
2004
2018 - 2022
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2004
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Thierry Brouin noted that this property should be considered an archetypical Morey-Saint-Denis because it lies in the center of the village at the end of a small combe (a notch in the hills to the west). "Never red berries here, only blackberry and blueberry," he noted. Brouin pointed out a couple of key differences between Clos des Lambrays and Clos de Tart. For starters, Brouin leaves eight clusters per vine, vs. five or six for Clos de Tart. He also generally picks five or six days earlier, despite having larger crop levels, with the result that grape sugars are more moderate. In 2005 he did a bit of chaptalization (potential alcohol was in the 12.5% to 13% range), no cold soak and no heating of the must at the end of the fermentation. He vinified only whole clusters, and carried out five punch-downs per day, with the cuvaison lasting two weeks. All of the young-vines juice in the Clos was declassified into the premier cru Les Loups. (Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, PA) Also recommended: Morey-Saint-Denis (86).
00
2004
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Terry Brouin began harvesting on September 22 in 2004, two days before the official start to the harvest, removing unripe berries and clusters on the sorting table. Only the older vines (30+ years) will be used for the estate's grand cru, according to Brouin, who says 2004 is "like 2001 in structure and like 2000 in perfume. "The stems were ripe, so there was no reason to destem, he added. The malos went quickly here, but Brouin kept most of the fine lees following the first racking. Brouin compared the superripe 2003 to the '99 and '90 vintages made at this estate. "I like 2003 very much, but I wouldn't want to make a vintage like this every year. "(Brouin also showed me his 2004 white wines this year, and the taut and minerally but seamless Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret is a standout, rating 93 points. )
00
2003
2021 - 2038
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2003
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Terry Brouin began harvesting on September 22 in 2004, two days before the official start to the harvest, removing unripe berries and clusters on the sorting table. Only the older vines (30+ years) will be used for the estate's grand cru, according to Brouin, who says 2004 is "like 2001 in structure and like 2000 in perfume. "The stems were ripe, so there was no reason to destem, he added. The malos went quickly here, but Brouin kept most of the fine lees following the first racking. Brouin compared the superripe 2003 to the '99 and '90 vintages made at this estate. "I like 2003 very much, but I wouldn't want to make a vintage like this every year. "(Brouin also showed me his 2004 white wines this year, and the taut and minerally but seamless Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret is a standout, rating 93 points. )
00
2003
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Terry Brouin chilled the fruit with carbonic snow in 2003 to forestall the beginning of fermentation by four or five days.He did a vendange entier, with a shorter maceration than usual but five or six punchdowns per day during the peak of fermentation.The malos finished by the beginning of February, at which point the wines were racked, but they were still on their fine lees in November. Brouin told me he originally envisioned an early bottling, but was in the process of changing his mind.
00
2002
2019 - 2035
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2002
2019 - 2029
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2002
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2002
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Terry Brouin chilled the fruit with carbonic snow in 2003 to forestall the beginning of fermentation by four or five days.He did a vendange entier, with a shorter maceration than usual but five or six punchdowns per day during the peak of fermentation.The malos finished by the beginning of February, at which point the wines were racked, but they were still on their fine lees in November. Brouin told me he originally envisioned an early bottling, but was in the process of changing his mind.
00
2002
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Estate manager Thierry Brouin appears to prefer his 2001 vintage to 2002. In 2001 the wines show pinot noir character and more terroir they have great balance.They are more aristocratic and they may last longer.But they're also higher in acidity, and the tannins are a bit more severe than those of the 2002s," he added.Incidentally, Brouin rates 1998, 1999 and 2001 as his three favorite vintages since the mid-'90s, with '98 and '01 likely to be the longest agers.Yields here were in the 36 hectoliters-per-hectare range in both 2002 and 2001.(Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville PA
00
2001
2019 - 2033
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2001
2017 - 2028
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2001
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Estate manager Thierry Brouin appears to prefer his 2001 vintage to 2002. In 2001 the wines show pinot noir character and more terroir they have great balance.They are more aristocratic and they may last longer.But they're also higher in acidity, and the tannins are a bit more severe than those of the 2002s," he added.Incidentally, Brouin rates 1998, 1999 and 2001 as his three favorite vintages since the mid-'90s, with '98 and '01 likely to be the longest agers.Yields here were in the 36 hectoliters-per-hectare range in both 2002 and 2001.(Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville PA
00
2001
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Vintage 2000 produced ample, round wines, while 2001 was more a year of terroir notes manager Terry Brouin. Brouin did little destemming in 2001 but did shorter cuvaisons due to the wines' substantial tannins.
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2000
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Vintage 2000 produced ample, round wines, while 2001 was more a year of terroir notes manager Terry Brouin. Brouin did little destemming in 2001 but did shorter cuvaisons due to the wines' substantial tannins.
00
2000
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Grape sugars in 2000 were the highest yet recorded in the Clos des Lambrays, according to manager Thierry Brouin. The crop load was high but a good 10% lower than that of 1999, Brouin told me. The 2000s here are outsized and sweet, with a full-blown wild fruit character; they reminded me of the more successful 1997s.
00
1999
2019 - 2027
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1999
2020 - 2037
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
00
1999
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Grape sugars in 2000 were the highest yet recorded in the Clos des Lambrays, according to manager Thierry Brouin. The crop load was high but a good 10% lower than that of 1999, Brouin told me. The 2000s here are outsized and sweet, with a full-blown wild fruit character; they reminded me of the more successful 1997s.
00
1999
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Manager Thierry Brouin told me that 1999 was the first year in which the estate did a full-scale green harvest. "And there was further selection on our triage table," he added. The yield was a copious 45 hectoliters per hectare for the Clos des Lambrays (compared to just 28 in 1998), but with potential alcohol ranging as high as 12.9%. Brouin removed about 15% of the stems in order to have enough room in the cuves to vinify this huge crop, then did a shorter maceration with less pigeage the color came quickly, said Brouin, and he didn't want too much extraction.
00
1998
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Manager Thierry Brouin told me that 1999 was the first year in which the estate did a full-scale green harvest. "And there was further selection on our triage table," he added. The yield was a copious 45 hectoliters per hectare for the Clos des Lambrays (compared to just 28 in 1998), but with potential alcohol ranging as high as 12.9%. Brouin removed about 15% of the stems in order to have enough room in the cuves to vinify this huge crop, then did a shorter maceration with less pigeage the color came quickly, said Brouin, and he didn't want too much extraction.
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1998
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According to estate manager Thierry Brouin, "1995 was a vintage of terroir 1996 of cepage and 1997 of climat." "Nineteen ninety-eight," he added, "offered a perfect combination of cepage and terroir; it's like a cross between 1993 and 1995." We were very worried following the rains of early September, added Brouin, but the wines have turned out to be quite classic in style. No destemming was done following the harvest, and the fruit received a natural five-day cold maceration before the fermentations commenced. Brouin made a point of telling me that the domain cut the price of its '97 more than 20% from '96 (this is a relatively inexpensive grand cru in the first place), making the very good '97 a real bargain in Burgundy terms.
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1997
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According to estate manager Thierry Brouin, "1995 was a vintage of terroir 1996 of cepage and 1997 of climat." "Nineteen ninety-eight," he added, "offered a perfect combination of cepage and terroir; it's like a cross between 1993 and 1995." We were very worried following the rains of early September, added Brouin, but the wines have turned out to be quite classic in style. No destemming was done following the harvest, and the fruit received a natural five-day cold maceration before the fermentations commenced. Brouin made a point of telling me that the domain cut the price of its '97 more than 20% from '96 (this is a relatively inexpensive grand cru in the first place), making the very good '97 a real bargain in Burgundy terms.
00
1997
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Winemaker Thierry Brouin believes the '97s have gained considerably from levage which he feels has rounded the tannins. "There nothing hard about these wines," notes Brouin. "They will be drinkable within a few years." At the time of my November visit, bottling was projected for January, a good four months earlier than the '96s were bottled. Very little sugar or acid adjustment was needed in '97. ("There was actually far more surmaturite and considerably higher grape sugars, at the end of the '98 harvest," notes Brouin. "Our fruit in 1998 went from 11.9% to 13.4% in six days.") Techniques in '97 included a severe trie less pigeage and a shorter cuvaison.
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1996
2021 - 2037
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1996
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1996
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Winemaker Thierry Brouin believes the '97s have gained considerably from levage which he feels has rounded the tannins. "There nothing hard about these wines," notes Brouin. "They will be drinkable within a few years." At the time of my November visit, bottling was projected for January, a good four months earlier than the '96s were bottled. Very little sugar or acid adjustment was needed in '97. ("There was actually far more surmaturite and considerably higher grape sugars, at the end of the '98 harvest," notes Brouin. "Our fruit in 1998 went from 11.9% to 13.4% in six days.") Techniques in '97 included a severe trie less pigeage and a shorter cuvaison.
00
1996
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1996 displays "more cepage than terroir " says Thierry Brouin, who continues to direct winemaking under the new owners, the Freund family of Germany. "We typically get more terroir from years of low production, like 1995 and 1993." Due to the large size of the '96 crop (41 h/h, vs. 30 the previous year), Brouin destemmed 20% of the fruit, then did lots of pigeage The wines were racked last March and April, and will be racked again prior to bottling in March and April of '98, a bit earlier than the '95s were bottled. I get a singular animal/vegetal/mineral complexity from Clos des Lambrays that I think of as characteristic of Morey-Saint-Denis; indeed, Brouin maintains that this vineyard is the most typical manifestion of the village grand cru sites.
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1995
2019 - 2030
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1995
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1996 displays "more cepage than terroir " says Thierry Brouin, who continues to direct winemaking under the new owners, the Freund family of Germany. "We typically get more terroir from years of low production, like 1995 and 1993." Due to the large size of the '96 crop (41 h/h, vs. 30 the previous year), Brouin destemmed 20% of the fruit, then did lots of pigeage The wines were racked last March and April, and will be racked again prior to bottling in March and April of '98, a bit earlier than the '95s were bottled. I get a singular animal/vegetal/mineral complexity from Clos des Lambrays that I think of as characteristic of Morey-Saint-Denis; indeed, Brouin maintains that this vineyard is the most typical manifestion of the village grand cru sites.
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1993
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1990
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1988
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1985
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1966
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1950
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1949
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1947
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1947
2018 - 2028
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1946
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1942
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1938
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1937
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1934
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1926
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1923
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