2017 Clos de Tart Grand Cru
France
Clos De Tart
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
00
2017
2025 - 2050
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2023
2030 - 2060
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Last year, I had a moan. I moaned about Clos de Tart’s stemware. It caused a few ripples. Good ripples. It encouraged them to reflect on how wines respond in different glasses and how the wrong shape can render pretty wines ugly. On that occasion, I called for superior stemware and it significantly improved the 2022s, then in barrel. Preempting my finicky attitude, winemaker Alessandro Noli had prepared two glasses to taste their wines. The traditional wide-bowled Burgundy glass is the one to use apropos Clos de Tart. As I explained to Noli, it is a comparatively tannic Grand Cru and this glass softens the tannins and heightens the red fruit. One thing to note is that ten days before harvest, he asked the BIVB to authorize a higher legal maximum yield of 38 hl/ha, but in the end, it came in at 34 hl/ha. Also, note that one prime parcel (Ballonge 1) was deselected and blended into La Forge and the lower percentage of new oak.”
00
2022
2028 - 2048
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Last year, I had a moan. I moaned about Clos de Tart’s stemware. It caused a few ripples. Good ripples. It encouraged them to reflect on how wines respond in different glasses and how the wrong shape can render pretty wines ugly. On that occasion, I called for superior stemware and it significantly improved the 2022s, then in barrel. Preempting my finicky attitude, winemaker Alessandro Noli had prepared two glasses to taste their wines. The traditional wide-bowled Burgundy glass is the one to use apropos Clos de Tart. As I explained to Noli, it is a comparatively tannic Grand Cru and this glass softens the tannins and heightens the red fruit. One thing to note is that ten days before harvest, he asked the BIVB to authorize a higher legal maximum yield of 38 hl/ha, but in the end, it came in at 34 hl/ha. Also, note that one prime parcel (Ballonge 1) was deselected and blended into La Forge and the lower percentage of new oak.”
00
2022
2030 - 2060
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After tasting through the 2021 and 2022s with winemaker Alessandro Noli, I wasn’t a happy puppy. Why? The stemware. Not fit for purpose. The glass rim was too thick, blurring the aromatics, heightening the tannins and dulling the wines. “Do you have any other glassware?” I ask impertinently, though judging by his expression, Noli has similar concerns. Repouring the Clos de Tart into superior stemware (Sydonios), the difference is unequivocal. It’s a different wine. I’m not surprised. I think Noli is taken aback. I would not be surprised if he took all their glasses and chucked them away. Suffice it to say; quality stemware is crucial if examining the anatomy of nascent wines, amateur or professional.
With that out the way, Noli talked about the 2022 vintage. “It was an easy, dry growing season, but not like 2020,” he tells me in one of the smartest tasting rooms in the Côte d’Or. “We started the harvest on August 26 and picked over the following five and a half days. We cropped at 28hL/ha because of the small size of grapes and lack of juice. To put that into figures, in 2022, we needed 395kg of grapes to fill barrels instead of an average of around 350kg. We did a four-day cold pre-fermentation soak, and we did one foulage [crushing the berries] quite early in the vinification in order to gain finer tannins and low alcohol. At a density of 1,020, I try not to do anything anymore, and I prefer to play with the vin de presse.”
00
2021
2026 - 2044
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After tasting through the 2021 and 2022s with winemaker Alessandro Noli, I wasn’t a happy puppy. Why? The stemware. Not fit for purpose. The glass rim was too thick, blurring the aromatics, heightening the tannins and dulling the wines. “Do you have any other glassware?” I ask impertinently, though judging by his expression, Noli has similar concerns. Repouring the Clos de Tart into superior stemware (Sydonios), the difference is unequivocal. It’s a different wine. I’m not surprised. I think Noli is taken aback. I would not be surprised if he took all their glasses and chucked them away. Suffice it to say; quality stemware is crucial if examining the anatomy of nascent wines, amateur or professional.
With that out the way, Noli talked about the 2022 vintage. “It was an easy, dry growing season, but not like 2020,” he tells me in one of the smartest tasting rooms in the Côte d’Or. “We started the harvest on August 26 and picked over the following five and a half days. We cropped at 28hL/ha because of the small size of grapes and lack of juice. To put that into figures, in 2022, we needed 395kg of grapes to fill barrels instead of an average of around 350kg. We did a four-day cold pre-fermentation soak, and we did one foulage [crushing the berries] quite early in the vinification in order to gain finer tannins and low alcohol. At a density of 1,020, I try not to do anything anymore, and I prefer to play with the vin de presse.”
00
2021
2026 - 2050
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With the refitting now complete, this is the first time I tasted in Clos de Tart’s swish new upper floor tasting room that affords a wonderful panorama across the monopole. I meet with winemaker Alessandro Noli and Frédéric Engerer, who survived the previous day’s La Paulée in Meursault. “The growing season was really tough with the three nights of frost,” Noli explains. “We could manage the problem using double that number of candles normally used across the entire vineyard as we knew there would be three consecutive nights of frost. We did 14 treatments in the vineyard using artisan teas and copper. You had to keep going back into the vines after 48 hours – you could never stop. In the end, we cropped at 26hL/ha compared to 33hL/ha in 2022, which is reputed to be a generous crop. We started picking on 20 September and picked over the next five and a half days.”
00
2020
2027 - 2060
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2019
2027 - 2050
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2019
2027 - 2060
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2019
2025 - 2055
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Alessandro Noli, former winemaker at Château Grillet, is now fully embedded in Burgundy. In the recent Morey merry-go-round, it can get a little confusing who made what and when, but things appear to now be settled and Noli can begin writing his own chapter in this historic monopole. “We started the picking on 13 September and did six days of harvest instead of the usual five,” he told me in what must constitute one of the most luxurious tasting rooms in the Côte d’Or. “We now split the clos into 12 sectors, so it takes longer. We are analysing each plot at the University of Bordeaux to ascertain ideal quantities of whole bunches and trials blends, whether they add or not. Frédéric Engerer asked me: What is your idea of Clos de Tart? I feel that it has a masculinity that comes naturally. So, I want to find the more feminine side, like a Chambolle. I like the tannins to be silky, which is why I stopped completely with the pigeage and began foulage [crushing], which is ten times gentler and less brutal. I did around two _foulages per vat. Also, I don’t believe in 100% new oak and so I said let’s try 70% on the Grand Cru and 50% on La Forge. We have new wooden tanks and I didn’t know how the new wood would impact the wine. So, I made two cuvées in steel tanks to balance the wood and the wine. I think 70% matches the Clos de Tart very well. It’s a different wine compared to the wines made under Sylvain Pitiot.”
Following my visit to Clos de Tart, I came away thinking how Noli is a clever winemaker, moving it gently away from some of the over-extracted, hedonistic wines of the past. Tasting the 2018 and 2019 side-by-side, I definitely prefer the 2019 by comparison, the former suffering partly because of the growing season and partly because wines sometimes do become “distracted” when the baton is passed from one winemaker to another. Noli seems to be imbuing Clos de Tart with greater finesse and nerve whilst keeping the identity of the vineyard. With no expense being spared in reconstructing the winery, it will be fascinating to witness the next decade of Clos de Tart. The 2019 is a great way for Noli to open his account.
00
2018
2030 - 2065
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2018
2025 - 2055
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Alessandro Noli, former winemaker at Château Grillet, is now fully embedded in Burgundy. In the recent Morey merry-go-round, it can get a little confusing who made what and when, but things appear to now be settled and Noli can begin writing his own chapter in this historic monopole. “We started the picking on 13 September and did six days of harvest instead of the usual five,” he told me in what must constitute one of the most luxurious tasting rooms in the Côte d’Or. “We now split the clos into 12 sectors, so it takes longer. We are analysing each plot at the University of Bordeaux to ascertain ideal quantities of whole bunches and trials blends, whether they add or not. Frédéric Engerer asked me: What is your idea of Clos de Tart? I feel that it has a masculinity that comes naturally. So, I want to find the more feminine side, like a Chambolle. I like the tannins to be silky, which is why I stopped completely with the pigeage and began foulage [crushing], which is ten times gentler and less brutal. I did around two _foulages per vat. Also, I don’t believe in 100% new oak and so I said let’s try 70% on the Grand Cru and 50% on La Forge. We have new wooden tanks and I didn’t know how the new wood would impact the wine. So, I made two cuvées in steel tanks to balance the wood and the wine. I think 70% matches the Clos de Tart very well. It’s a different wine compared to the wines made under Sylvain Pitiot.”
Following my visit to Clos de Tart, I came away thinking how Noli is a clever winemaker, moving it gently away from some of the over-extracted, hedonistic wines of the past. Tasting the 2018 and 2019 side-by-side, I definitely prefer the 2019 by comparison, the former suffering partly because of the growing season and partly because wines sometimes do become “distracted” when the baton is passed from one winemaker to another. Noli seems to be imbuing Clos de Tart with greater finesse and nerve whilst keeping the identity of the vineyard. With no expense being spared in reconstructing the winery, it will be fascinating to witness the next decade of Clos de Tart. The 2019 is a great way for Noli to open his account.
00
2018
2024 - 2044
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There is a "merry-go-round" of winemakers in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis and Clos de Tart/Domaine des Lambrays. Alessandro Noli has been drafted in from running Château Grillet in the Rhône to run Clos de Tart since the departure of Jacques Desvauges, now at Domaine des Lambrays. Noli was there to greet me at Clos de Tart with Frédéric Engerer, the director of all Artemis's wineries including Château Latour. Noli is a former lawyer who changed career and in 2006 started working in the vineyard at the aforementioned First Growth. He subsequently worked for four years at Domaine d’Eugénie where he implemented their biodynamic program from 2009. He headed up Château Grillet from 2011 and since last year, is now back in Burgundy. "He has the mindset of Artemis," Engerer told me. "He has the experience of running a monopole at Grillet and making assemblages of small lots. We have subdivided some of the plots according to vine age, soils type, massale selection and so forth, plus one parcel being replanted in 2018. [Engerer shows me a fascinating but complex map of the Clos]. There is also a new vat-room where we have 15 new wooden Taransaud vats augmented by the five stainless steel vats. There is a new Morey-Saint-Denis Village from young vines across all the plots." The introduction of a Village Cru mirrors the three-tiers of wine at Château Latour, though the production of this Village Cru is relatively small. I also asked about their intentions with respect to whole bunch addition, which has become increasingly important at Clos de Tart. Engerer told me that they are undertaking studies of the stems and the impact of whole bunch on the wine in order to find correlations where they might use whole clusters in the future. There is 60% in the 2018 vintage that was picked from 30 August, the earliest on record, dichotomous to former winemaker Sylvain Pitiot's policy of picking late. I was also told that the malolactic was done immediately after alcoholic fermentation and in some cases before the wines was racked down in barrels. Finally, I asked what their vision is for a vineyard whose history stretches back centuries. Engerer said: "We have an immense respect for what has been done: understanding older vintages and how they have aged even if they used different techniques. We want to make the best wine and realise its potential. We see different "faces" within Clos de Tart, different concentration and tannins, different energy that we can feel immediately."
00
2017
2024 - 2050
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I was recently chatting to a maven who described the 7.5-hectare monopole of Clos de Tart as the heart of Burgundy. I see his point. It seems to lie in the geographic epicentre of the Côte de Nuits, its facade dominating the T-junction in the centre of Morey-Saint-Denis where three ladies are permanently settled on an outside bench. François Pinault’s acquisition last October, just a few days before I visited, is now old news. At that time, I felt it overshadowed the equally important news that winemaker Jacques Desvauges had conjured perhaps the greatest Clos de Tart ever made, a view I maintain having tasted 50 vintages of Clos de Tart a few months ago (due on Vinous early next year, including the 2016 in bottle.) Meeting Desvauges and touring the winery, I concluded that by all appearances, nothing has changed. We will see what lies in the future now it has its place on the mantelpiece alongside Château Latour, Château Grillet, Araujo and of course, Domaine d’Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée. For now, let us broach the matter in hand – how the hell do you follow up an epic wine like the 2016 Clos de Tart? First, Desvauges summarized the growing season.
“March was very warm. It was the warmest since 1957. We had bud-burst on March 30 and after May or June it continued warm and sunny, with early flowering on June 1 and 2. There was only three weeks until the closing of bunches. We started to pick on September 6. I think about those early-picked vintages like 2003 or 2007. We have more experience now; we know how to handle those situations. We are probably one of the only domaines that produced less wine in 2017 than 2016 – 32hl/ha and 35hl/ha, respectively. This is one of the keys of the vintage. The Pinot Noir was generous and the great wines, in my opinion, will be those from reasonable yields. The fruit was ripe with noticeable freshness, which is what I like. You also feel the terroir. The alcohol level is 13.4° and there is 60% whole bunch in the blend.”
Well, the good news is that Desvauges follows the 2016 with a brilliant 2017. Tasting both the component cuvées per soil type and elevation, plus the final blend, this is potentially a wonderful Clos de Tart surfeit with freshness and complexity. Whilst I do not find it quite matches the ethereal concentration of the previous vintage, it is, thankfully, cut from similar cloth. Gone are the tendencies to over-egg the wine, as tended to be the case in the past, and, crucially, I find picking dates are now spot on instead of waiting for notional optimal ripeness that transpired to be overripe, evidenced by the evolution of some vintages from the late 1990s and 2000s in bottle. It will be interesting to see where Clos de Tart is priced once released onto the market, but for sure, Desvauges has taken Clos de Tart to a higher level.
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2016
2023 - 2060
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2016
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It's hard to believe, given the fact that this renowned estate has had just four owners in more than 800 years, but Jacques Devauges, whose first vinification at Clos de Tart was 2015, has become an important source of continuity at this property, as long-time manager and technical director Sylvain Pitiot retired at the end of ’15 and the estate was just purchased by the holding group of billionaire businessman François Pinault, who also owns Château Latour, a few weeks before my November visit. (The Mommessin family had bought the property in 1932, seven years before the Clos de Tart AOC was created, and following nearly eight centuries under just two earlier owners: the Cistercian nuns and the French government.)
But it remains to be seen if the new owner will continue with the changes that Devauges has put in place in just the last two years. For example, two thousand sixteen was the first year in which the estate was farmed according to biodynamic principles, and just its second year working its vineyards organically. The estate has also put in place a long-term replanting program (scheduled to last until at least 2062!) under which it will replace 1.5% to 2% of its vines every year (about 0.5% to 1% of the vines die each year, notes Devauges), using a genetically diverse sélection massale that Sylvain Pitiot created from the estate's oldest parcels, based on his in-depth study of the subject between 1998 and 2003.
Devauges, it appears, also has a tendency to harvest earlier than Pitiot did. It was his decision to pick on September 5 in 2015 and, according to my tasting note, this strategy paid off. He then harvested on September 28 in 2016, which is the same date on which Pitiot started in 2010. There was only a bit of frost here (but considerable mildew pressure in May and June) and the clement July, August and September weather allowed the estate to bring in 35 hectoliters per hectare, the largest crop since 1999 (the ten-year average here is just 25). Potential alcohol levels ranged from 13.2% to 13.6% by lot (Devauges vinified eight separate lots) and no chaptalization was done. Devauges totally destemmed the youngest vines but vinified the rest of his lots with between 60% and 80% whole clusters. I tasted all eight of the components, plus an approximation of the final blend that did not include the young vines, at least part of which Devauges plans to use for the estate’s La Forge de Tart premier cru.
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2015
2025 - 2060
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2015
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It's hard to believe, given the fact that this renowned estate has had just four owners in more than 800 years, but Jacques Devauges, whose first vinification at Clos de Tart was 2015, has become an important source of continuity at this property, as long-time manager and technical director Sylvain Pitiot retired at the end of ’15 and the estate was just purchased by the holding group of billionaire businessman François Pinault, who also owns Château Latour, a few weeks before my November visit. (The Mommessin family had bought the property in 1932, seven years before the Clos de Tart AOC was created, and following nearly eight centuries under just two earlier owners: the Cistercian nuns and the French government.)
But it remains to be seen if the new owner will continue with the changes that Devauges has put in place in just the last two years. For example, two thousand sixteen was the first year in which the estate was farmed according to biodynamic principles, and just its second year working its vineyards organically. The estate has also put in place a long-term replanting program (scheduled to last until at least 2062!) under which it will replace 1.5% to 2% of its vines every year (about 0.5% to 1% of the vines die each year, notes Devauges), using a genetically diverse sélection massale that Sylvain Pitiot created from the estate's oldest parcels, based on his in-depth study of the subject between 1998 and 2003.
Devauges, it appears, also has a tendency to harvest earlier than Pitiot did. It was his decision to pick on September 5 in 2015 and, according to my tasting note, this strategy paid off. He then harvested on September 28 in 2016, which is the same date on which Pitiot started in 2010. There was only a bit of frost here (but considerable mildew pressure in May and June) and the clement July, August and September weather allowed the estate to bring in 35 hectoliters per hectare, the largest crop since 1999 (the ten-year average here is just 25). Potential alcohol levels ranged from 13.2% to 13.6% by lot (Devauges vinified eight separate lots) and no chaptalization was done. Devauges totally destemmed the youngest vines but vinified the rest of his lots with between 60% and 80% whole clusters. I tasted all eight of the components, plus an approximation of the final blend that did not include the young vines, at least part of which Devauges plans to use for the estate’s La Forge de Tart premier cru.
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2015
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Jacques Devauges vinified his first harvest at Clos de Tart in 2015 and he started with a bang. The crop level was just 22 hectoliters per hectare, but it was not due to a poor flowering. "This time the flowering was warm and quick, during the first five days of June," said Devauges. "But we had some heat waves during the summer that stressed the vines, and some of the berries fell off. Plus, our site is a hot spot for oidium pressure, along with Clos des Lambrays and Bonnes-Mares," which resulted in further loss of fruit as 2015 was the first year in which Clos de Tart farmed its vines organically.
Devauges began harvesting on September 5, after just 90 days of hang time and almost certainly earlier than his predecessor Sylvain Pitiot would have done. Grape sugars were in the 12.8% to 13.6% range and acidity levels were healthy, and Devauges told me he did no chaptalization or acidification. He almost certainly will not bottle the premier cru La Forge de Tart (the estate's second wine) from this vintage as he considers even the estate's young vines to be good enough to go into the flagship blend. Devauges noted that when he started making wine in Burgundy in 2001, he did three pigeages per day during the fermentation. But in 2015 he did a total of three. "So the concentration of this wine comes entirely from the grapes," he said. The various components of the ultimate blend will only be racked before the bottling, which will likely take place in March.
00
2014
2022 - 2045
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2014
2024 - 2038
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The 2014 Clos de Tart was made by Sylvain Pitiot but blended and bottled by Jacques Devauges, who succeeded Pitiot as winemaker here in early 2015 In the end, Devauges decided to declassify the estate's young-vines cuvée into their La Forge de Tart premier cru bottling, as he found the grand cru blend "a bit more deep and attractive" without it
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2014
2024 - 2038
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The 2014 Clos de Tart was made by Sylvain Pitiot but blended and bottled by Jacques Devauges, who succeeded Pitiot as winemaker here in early 2015. In the end, Devauges decided to declassify the estate's young-vines cuvée into their La Forge de Tart premier cru bottling, as he found the grand cru blend "a bit more deep and attractive" without it.
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2014
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Jacques Devauges, who made four vintages at Domaine de l'Arlot, began working at Clos de Tart at the beginning of 2015 and following just three months with departing winemaker Sylvain Pitiot is now in charge at this grand cru monopole. Happily, harvest dates are not quite as late here as they were in the 1990s and part of the 2000s, and recent vintages have shown great lift to go along with their richness. The 2014 harvest took place between September 17 and 21, and the crop level--a modest 31 hectoliters per hectare--was the biggest here in several years. Seven cuvées were vinified separately in 2014 and Devauges showed me a representation of the finale assemblage. It's still possible that the young-vines component will be used to produce the premier La Forge de Tart, but Devauges will not decide on the final blend until February.
00
2013
2022 - 2034
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2013
2022 - 2045
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2013
2024 - 2038
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New winemaker Jacques Devauges, who began working here at the beginning of 2015, pointed out that the harvest started a full month later in 2013 than in 2015 at Clos de Tart. The cool-year quality comes through in the 2013's peppery freshness, but at 13% natural alcohol chaptalized to 13.5%, the wine hardly lacks for ripeness or power.
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2013
2025 - 2043
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The big news at Clos de Tart is that Sylvain Pitiot has decided to retire. Jacques Devaudes, formerly the estate manager at Domaine de l'Arlot is taking over. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see how things develop going forward. Pitiot describes 2013 as a challenging vintage. Flowering took place under difficult conditions that on the one hand lowered yields but also set up the conditions for good ripening in what was a long, cold season. The 2013 harvest started on October 8, very late by any measure. Yields came in at 23 hectoliters per hectare, a bumper crop compared to 2012, when yields were 40% lower.
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2013
2023 - 2038
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Sylvain Pitiot, who will be turning over the winemaking reins to Jacques Devauges this year, told me that he has been pleasantly surprised by the evolution of the 2013 Clos de Tart. "We started harvesting on October 8 with clean, small grapes, and the wine shows power and concentration. It's evolving like other past cool years such as 2010, 2008 and 2001 and has very good potential." The estate harvested with potential alcohol around 13%--very high in the context of the vintage--and the wine will be bottled at about 13.5%. As in past years, I tasted multiple components and then an approximation of the final blend. Pitiot estimated that about 55% to 60% of the wine was vinified with whole clusters, noting that he does almost no pigeage when working with stems. The temperature of the fermentation does not exceed 32 degree C, although Pitiot heats some cuves to 40 degrees C following the end of the fermentation to extract more tannins.
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2012
2022 - 2045
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2012
2024 - 2042
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The big news at Clos de Tart is that Sylvain Pitiot has decided to retire. Jacques Devaudes, formerly the estate manager at Domaine de l'Arlot is taking over. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see how things develop going forward. Pitiot describes 2013 as a challenging vintage. Flowering took place under difficult conditions that on the one hand lowered yields but also set up the conditions for good ripening in what was a long, cold season. The 2013 harvest started on October 8, very late by any measure. Yields came in at 23 hectoliters per hectare, a bumper crop compared to 2012, when yields were 40% lower.
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2012
2025 - 2040
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The freakishly concentrated 2012 Clos de Tart is 13.8% natural alcohol, from a crop level of just 14 hectoliters per hectare. Winemaker Sylvain Pitiot believes tha the wine was considerably tightened by its bottling last March and predicts that it will be for drinking a bit later than the somewhat juicier 2013.
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2012
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Sylvain Pitiot harvested a single parcel of young vines at 14.5% potential alcohol on September 19, then stopped for nine days before continuing on the 28th.The crop level was just 14 hectoliters per hectare, following what he described as "the seven plagues of Egypt--but no hail or rot, so the grapes that remained were healthy."Every year I marvel at the differences between the Clos de Tart and Clos de Lambrays.Pitiot is a late picker and clearly prefers black fruits to red.He describes vintage 2010 as "grandiose," 2011 as "correct, un vin de transition," and 2012 as having "great potential."I did not have time this year to taste all of the various components of the Clos de Tart, just an approximation of the final blend.
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2012
2022 - 2042
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It's quite a shocking experience to walk down the stairs and into the cellars and see, first hand, just how devastating the 2012 vintage was. Yields are down almost 50%, the result of a brutal winter frost and poor weather during the flowering. As usual, Sylvain Pitiot prepares a tasting of the separate component wines for Clos de Tart, followed by an approximate blend. This year, there are just six cuvées, when typically there are eight. The single cuvées represent distinct spots within the vineyard, with different vine ages and also varying approaches in the cellar, most notably with regards to the inclusion of whole clusters.
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2011
2019 - 2032
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2011
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2011
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"Un millesime intermediare," says Sylvain Pitiot about 2011, "not exceptional but a good surprise." As is his usual practice, he picked later than most, beginning on September 10 with grape sugars ranging from 13.1% to as high as 14%. The grapes, he told me, were healthy as he had previously carried out a "serious green harvest" and two passes through the vines to pull leaves and eliminate the fatter grapes. The vintage is one that will be more about immediate pleasure and elegance than sheer structure, he went on, comparing 2011 to 2008 and 2001. "The '11 is less vegetal than the 2007, more serious and pure, and it should gain with bottle age." As always, I tasted numerous components of the Clos de Tart, and then an approximation of the final blend.
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2010
2020 - 2040
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2010
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2010
2025 - 2045
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Silvan Pitiot showed me the 2010 Clos de Tart first in separate cuvées, then in an approximate final blend. The Cuvee #1 was not made, so there were only seven wines, including one sample that was 100% press juice, and others from young/older vines and with various percentages of stems. The harvest was very late in 2010 and didn't start until October 6. Yields came in around 21 hectoliter per hectare, lower than the more typicalPitiot described the bunches as very small, with tiny berries.
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2010
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Long known for picking late, Sylvain Pitiot began on October 6 in 2010. He explained his "new" strategy for harvesting fully ripe grapes as follows: "Once grape sugars reach their peak level, we wait two or three weeks to harvest." Pitiot noted that sugar levels varied considerably by parcel in 2010 and therefore the estate harvested in three "flights," with an average crop level of just 21 hectoliters per hectare. I tasted seven different lots of wine, followed by an approximation of the final blend. The malos had finished in September but the various components had not yet been racked.
00
2009
2020 - 2040
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2009
2024 - 2044
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2009
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2009
2024 - 2044
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Clos de Tart made one of the most massive, powerful wines of the 2009 vintage. The harvest started on September 18. Yields were just 26 hectoliters per hectare, low by any measure, but especially so in a year that was so abundant virtually elsewhere in the region. I tasted the 2009 from two final, pre-blends that essentially represent the top and bottom portions of the vineyard. These wines were to be blended in approximately equal proportions when the wine was bottled in the spring of 2011. As a side note, readers may want to check out Sylvain Pitiot's iPhone/iPad app for the vineyards of Burgundy. It has a few technical glitches, but remains an indispensable tool for readers who want a portable source for vineyard information.
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2009
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Sylvain Pitiot describes 2009 as a "beautiful vintage but not great." The fruit ranged more widely in quality than that of 2005, as yields were higher in certain spots. But Pitiot did a severe green harvest and ultimately produced just 26 hectoliters per hectare, with some early hail at the top north side of the Clos resulting in smaller grapes due to trauma to the vines. Frequently a late picker, Pitiot started harvesting on September 18, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol averaging around 13.7%, with some lots reaching 14%. "We look for the ideal point where the sugars have reached their natural peak," he explained. As always, I tasted multiple components and then an approximation of the final blend, with the fully destemmed young-vines lot omitted.
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2008
2018 - 2038
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2008
2023 - 2043
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Clos de Tart made one of the most massive, powerful wines of the 2009 vintage. The harvest started on September 18. Yields were just 26 hectoliters per hectare, low by any measure, but especially so in a year that was so abundant virtually elsewhere in the region. I tasted the 2009 from two final, pre-blends that essentially represent the top and bottom portions of the vineyard. These wines were to be blended in approximately equal proportions when the wine was bottled in the spring of 2011. As a side note, readers may want to check out Sylvain Pitiot's iPhone/iPad app for the vineyards of Burgundy. It has a few technical glitches, but remains an indispensable tool for readers who want a portable source for vineyard information.
00
2008
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2008
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Sylvain Pitiot waited until October 6 to harvest in 2008 and ultimately brought in fruit with a relatively high 13.6% alcohol. Thanks to the tiny millerandage-affected grapes and severe leaf pulling early in the summer, the domain had very clean fruit and little sorting was necessary. Still, the estate-wide crop level of 29.3 hectoliters per hectare was the highest since 2004, according to Pitiot. As usual, I tasted several separately vinified lots, from different levels on the hillside and varying soil composition, and made with widely varying percentages of whole clusters. My favorite lot was actually a blend of three sources of fruit, vinified with 100% of their stems. My note below was based on a blend of the six components that will go into the final wine.
00
2007
2018 - 2028
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2007
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Sylvain Pitiot waited until October 6 to harvest in 2008 and ultimately brought in fruit with a relatively high 13.6% alcohol. Thanks to the tiny millerandage-affected grapes and severe leaf pulling early in the summer, the domain had very clean fruit and little sorting was necessary. Still, the estate-wide crop level of 29.3 hectoliters per hectare was the highest since 2004, according to Pitiot. As usual, I tasted several separately vinified lots, from different levels on the hillside and varying soil composition, and made with widely varying percentages of whole clusters. My favorite lot was actually a blend of three sources of fruit, vinified with 100% of their stems. My note below was based on a blend of the six components that will go into the final wine.
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2007
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Sylvain Pitiot picked on the late side in 2007-between September 6 and 10-considering the typically low crop levels here. In fact, he told me, "we could have waited even longer; we would have gotten more phenolic maturity and riper seeds." (In 2008, in contrast, he started harvesting on October 3.) The yield was ultimately just 27 hectoliters per hectare, and average potential alcohol was 13.6%, he told me. A moderate percentage of rotten grapes was eliminated, but underripe berries were not an issue, said Pitiot, who compares the energy level of the new wine to the 2006 and 2001 vintages. These are three vintages I like very much here.
00
2006
2018 - 2032
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2006
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Sylvain Pitiot picked on the late side in 2007-between September 6 and 10-considering the typically low crop levels here. In fact, he told me, "we could have waited even longer; we would have gotten more phenolic maturity and riper seeds." (In 2008, in contrast, he started harvesting on October 3.) The yield was ultimately just 27 hectoliters per hectare, and average potential alcohol was 13.6%, he told me. A moderate percentage of rotten grapes was eliminated, but underripe berries were not an issue, said Pitiot, who compares the energy level of the new wine to the 2006 and 2001 vintages. These are three vintages I like very much here.
00
2006
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In November, Sylvain Pitiot, who vinifies this superb grand cru in a number of distinct components, noted that he has recently begun to adjust his winemaking techniques according to "the structure of the soil" of each major part of the vineyard, by which I assume he is mainly talking about the use of stems and the amount of extraction during the fermentation. "In 2005, the sugar maturity happened at the same time as the phenolic maturity," he said. His choice that year was to vinify two of his cuvees with all whole clusters and to destem the others 80%. (In 2006, he destemmed roughly 80% across the board.) Pitiot compares this huge wine to the Clos de Tarts of 2002, 2000 and 1997, which were also high in alcohol. The 2006, he added, "started out austere and tight but is evolving well. It's a classic wine with lovely life in the mouth, a bit like the 2001." The estate had "the normal amount of rot" in 2006, and eliminated the bad grapes on a sorting table.
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2005
2023 - 2045
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2005
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In November, Sylvain Pitiot, who vinifies this superb grand cru in a number of distinct components, noted that he has recently begun to adjust his winemaking techniques according to "the structure of the soil" of each major part of the vineyard, by which I assume he is mainly talking about the use of stems and the amount of extraction during the fermentation. "In 2005, the sugar maturity happened at the same time as the phenolic maturity," he said. His choice that year was to vinify two of his cuvees with all whole clusters and to destem the others 80%. (In 2006, he destemmed roughly 80% across the board.) Pitiot compares this huge wine to the Clos de Tarts of 2002, 2000 and 1997, which were also high in alcohol. The 2006, he added, "started out austere and tight but is evolving well. It's a classic wine with lovely life in the mouth, a bit like the 2001." The estate had "the normal amount of rot" in 2006, and eliminated the bad grapes on a sorting table.
00
2005
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The superb growing conditions of 2005 meant that Sylvain Pitiot did not have to sort the grapes for the first time since he began here ten years ago. The fruit came in averaging 14.6% potential alcohol "but without surmaturite," he told me, and he did fewer punch-downs in 2005 thanks to what he described as a "very good natural extraction." Pitiot leaves just five bunches per vine, and he got a yield of 27 hectoliters per hectare in 2005 and just 31 in 2004. This is one of several estates where very low yields combined with global warming may be producing fruit almost too high in sugar. Clos de Tart has its own nursery, which enables it to use its own vines for repiquage (the replacement of vines that have died).
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2004
2018 - 2018
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2004
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The superb growing conditions of 2005 meant that Sylvain Pitiot did not have to sort the grapes for the first time since he began here ten years ago. The fruit came in averaging 14.6% potential alcohol "but without surmaturite," he told me, and he did fewer punch-downs in 2005 thanks to what he described as a "very good natural extraction." Pitiot leaves just five bunches per vine, and he got a yield of 27 hectoliters per hectare in 2005 and just 31 in 2004. This is one of several estates where very low yields combined with global warming may be producing fruit almost too high in sugar. Clos de Tart has its own nursery, which enables it to use its own vines for repiquage (the replacement of vines that have died).
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2004
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Sylvain Pithiot compared his 2004 to the 2001 in terms of the date of the harvest, the quantity produced, the level of ripeness, and the acid/sugar balance in the grapes, although he told me that the 2004 is a bit riper. "The wines have also gone through a similar evolution through the malolactic fermentation," he added, although the 2004 finished with slightly lower acidity. The 2004 components, according to Pithiot, have alcohol levels between 13. 5% and 13. 8% without chaptalization, but then this grand cru has produced consistently very high grape sugars in recent vintages. Nothing had been racked yet in November. "We haven't needed to as there are no off odors," Pithiot explained. "Besides, the wine can use more fat and volume from the lees. "Pithiot has been experimenting with some whole-cluster fermentation, but not in 2004, as the stems were not ripe enough. Pithiot noted that in 2003 there was no second wine.
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2003
2018 - 2028
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2003
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Sylvain Pithiot compared his 2004 to the 2001 in terms of the date of the harvest, the quantity produced, the level of ripeness, and the acid/sugar balance in the grapes, although he told me that the 2004 is a bit riper. "The wines have also gone through a similar evolution through the malolactic fermentation," he added, although the 2004 finished with slightly lower acidity. The 2004 components, according to Pithiot, have alcohol levels between 13. 5% and 13. 8% without chaptalization, but then this grand cru has produced consistently very high grape sugars in recent vintages. Nothing had been racked yet in November. "We haven't needed to as there are no off odors," Pithiot explained. "Besides, the wine can use more fat and volume from the lees. "Pithiot has been experimenting with some whole-cluster fermentation, but not in 2004, as the stems were not ripe enough. Pithiot noted that in 2003 there was no second wine.
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2003
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Here's a young 2003 that can truly be described as 1947-like, at least according to the numbers.Sylvain Pitiot held off harvesting until September 2."We were waiting for phenolic maturity, and it was too hot to pick in August anyway," he told me."Because we did not de-leaf in 2003, we could afford to wait to pick.The vines didn't really suffer from drought, but the grapes themselves did suffer from the sun."The result was a crop level of 21 hectoliters per hectare and five cuvees ranging in alcohol from 14.9% to 15.2%.Pitiot did a shorter maceration than usual, beginning with an abbreviated cold soak, then fermented at cooler temperature, using less pigeage.In truth, I found less of the normal aromatic perfume and sappiness of Clos de Tart in the approximation of the final wine that I tasted, but I would not be surprised if this wine developed in bottle for a good 20 to 30 years.
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2002
2018 - 2032
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2002
2016 - 2040
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2002
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Here's a young 2003 that can truly be described as 1947-like, at least according to the numbers.Sylvain Pitiot held off harvesting until September 2."We were waiting for phenolic maturity, and it was too hot to pick in August anyway," he told me."Because we did not de-leaf in 2003, we could afford to wait to pick.The vines didn't really suffer from drought, but the grapes themselves did suffer from the sun."The result was a crop level of 21 hectoliters per hectare and five cuvees ranging in alcohol from 14.9% to 15.2%.Pitiot did a shorter maceration than usual, beginning with an abbreviated cold soak, then fermented at cooler temperature, using less pigeage.In truth, I found less of the normal aromatic perfume and sappiness of Clos de Tart in the approximation of the final wine that I tasted, but I would not be surprised if this wine developed in bottle for a good 20 to 30 years.
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2002
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This estate harvested very late in 2002, between September 23 and 26 under what winemaker Sylvain Pitiot described as 'cool to cold but dry weather.'The fruit was very healthy, with thick skins, and the estate-wide production was just over 28 hectoliters per hectare thanks to a good percentage of millerande grapes and extensive green harvesting at the end of July.Pitiot believes that the final blend will be deeper than either 1997 or 2000, but at the same time finer and more vibrant.(Boisset America, North Miami FL
00
2001
2017 - 2032
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2001
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This estate harvested very late in 2002, between September 23 and 26 under what winemaker Sylvain Pitiot described as 'cool to cold but dry weather.'The fruit was very healthy, with thick skins, and the estate-wide production was just over 28 hectoliters per hectare thanks to a good percentage of millerande grapes and extensive green harvesting at the end of July.Pitiot believes that the final blend will be deeper than either 1997 or 2000, but at the same time finer and more vibrant.(Boisset America, North Miami FL
00
2001
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This year I tasted with assistant winemaker Jean-Louis Charbonnier, who told me that the potential alcohol of 13% in 2001 was the domain's lowest since 1996 (the 2000, in comparison, is 14.2% alcohol in bottle, with no chaptalization). Charbonnier noted that the estate-wide yield here was a bit higher in 2001 than in the previous year: 33 hectoliters per hectare vs. 30. (My spies in Burgundy consistently name Clos de Tart as one of the most serious estates in the region for labor-intensive work in the vineyards and low yields.) As always, I tasted separate cuvees from the bottom, middle and top of this grand cru. Interestingly, the juice from the bottom was unexceptional on its own, yet seemed to disappear into the blend, fleshing out its middle-palate texture without compromising the wine in any obvious way.
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2000
2018 - 2028
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2000
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This year I tasted with assistant winemaker Jean-Louis Charbonnier, who told me that the potential alcohol of 13% in 2001 was the domain's lowest since 1996 (the 2000, in comparison, is 14.2% alcohol in bottle, with no chaptalization). Charbonnier noted that the estate-wide yield here was a bit higher in 2001 than in the previous year: 33 hectoliters per hectare vs. 30. (My spies in Burgundy consistently name Clos de Tart as one of the most serious estates in the region for labor-intensive work in the vineyards and low yields.) As always, I tasted separate cuvees from the bottom, middle and top of this grand cru. Interestingly, the juice from the bottom was unexceptional on its own, yet seemed to disappear into the blend, fleshing out its middle-palate texture without compromising the wine in any obvious way.
00
2000
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As at Clos des Lambrays and in some other grand cru sites in Morey-Saint-Denis, potential alcohol levels were almost freakishly high here, ranging from 14% to 14.8%, which was even higher than those of 1997. There are a couple of important things to say about this vintage, winemaker Sylvain Pitiot pointed out in November: the grapes were superripe and low in acidity, and they were fragile, owing to the beginnings of rot. The yield in '00 was a low 31 hectoliters per hectare. The malolactic fermentations did not finish until July or August, nearly always a positive development for wines from fragile grapes, and Pitiot planned to bottle in February, earlier than in recent years.
00
1999
2018 - 2025
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1999
2018 - 2034
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
00
1999
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As at Clos des Lambrays and in some other grand cru sites in Morey-Saint-Denis, potential alcohol levels were almost freakishly high here, ranging from 14% to 14.8%, which was even higher than those of 1997. There are a couple of important things to say about this vintage, winemaker Sylvain Pitiot pointed out in November: the grapes were superripe and low in acidity, and they were fragile, owing to the beginnings of rot. The yield in '00 was a low 31 hectoliters per hectare. The malolactic fermentations did not finish until July or August, nearly always a positive development for wines from fragile grapes, and Pitiot planned to bottle in February, earlier than in recent years.
00
1999
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Clos de Tart has snapped back with a vengeance under the capable direction of Sylvain Pitiot, and the two vintages I sampled in November are nothing short of spectacular. Best of all, the full crop of '99 (this 7.5-hectare clos produced about 42 hectoliters per hectare, vs. just 29 in '98) will enable the estate to produce nearly 3,000 cases of wine. So this is one grand cru Burgundy you may actually be able to find. Pitiot does serious green-harvesting at the end of July; he also uses cordon royat pruning to hold down the yields of the vines that are less than 35 years old. In addition, he did a bit of saignee on a couple of the lower parcels, which tend to produce larger grapes with a higher juice-to-skin ratio. I tasted the major components of the '99 (which are harvested and vinified by altitude on the slope), as well as an approximation of the final blend.
00
1998
2018 - 2022
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00
1998
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Clos de Tart has snapped back with a vengeance under the capable direction of Sylvain Pitiot, and the two vintages I sampled in November are nothing short of spectacular. Best of all, the full crop of '99 (this 7.5-hectare clos produced about 42 hectoliters per hectare, vs. just 29 in '98) will enable the estate to produce nearly 3,000 cases of wine. So this is one grand cru Burgundy you may actually be able to find. Pitiot does serious green-harvesting at the end of July; he also uses cordon royat pruning to hold down the yields of the vines that are less than 35 years old. In addition, he did a bit of saignee on a couple of the lower parcels, which tend to produce larger grapes with a higher juice-to-skin ratio. I tasted the major components of the '99 (which are harvested and vinified by altitude on the slope), as well as an approximation of the final blend.
00
1997
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My first visit to this historic estate since Sylvain Pitiot took over as regisseur (he began working here in '95) turned up a potentially spectacular '98 in the making. Pitiot, whose winemaking resume includes a stint with Andre Porcheret at the Hospices de Beaune, is taking this singular wine to a higher level, following inconsistent performance here through the late '80s and some dabbling with Guy Accad in the early '90s. The vines in this 7.5-hectare clos, which has existed virtually intact since it was bought by Benedictine monks in the 12th century, are planted horizontally, allowing the estate to vinify six different cuvees according to altitude; these components are combined only prior to the bottling. Vines younger than 15 years of age are often declassified, as are lesser cuvees, into a second wine called La Forge (a Morey-Saint-Denis premier cru sold mostly in France), which was the name of the site before the monks named the property Clos de Tart. The yield in '98 was just 28 h/h, as Pitiot prunes short and does a severe ebourgeonnage and vendange en vert. The malos finished during the '99 harvest; bottling was slated for April or May of 2000 and will be done by hand using gravity. I tasted three cuvees of the '98, beginning with the bottom of the hill. Long-time admirers of this grand cru say that Clos de Tart melds the characteristics of Chambertin and Musigny-and that's more than enough reason to hunt down a bottle of two of this juice.
00
1996
2018 - 2020
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1993
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1990
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This wine was tasted in June 2014 at a private charity dinner and auction held to benefit local charities in Beaune that help the poor. A number of Burgundy’s top growers poured wines from their cellars from magnum as a collection of eye-popping bottles was auctioned off to the attendees. The food was delicious and simple, which allowed the wines to shine even more brightly. Most importantly of all, the auction was a huge success.
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1989
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1988
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1987
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1986
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1985
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1983
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1982
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1981
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1980
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1978
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1976
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1974
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1973
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1972
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1971
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1970
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1966
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1962
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1957
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1954
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1950
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1949
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1945
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1943
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1942
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