2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes

As most of the 2008 malos didn't end here until September, Denis Bachelet warned that his wines were "not yet in the full maturity of their elevage and really need another two months. It really takes until four or five months after the malos to reveal the pleasure of the wines." I had another appointment that morning so I couldn't wait the requisite four months, but the wines showed considerable promise. Bachelet told me he harvested with potential alcohols in the 12% to 12.5% range. He always eliminates a portion of underripe grapes "as the selection massale always gives a range of ripeness." Bachelet also noted that in the past few years, he's pressing more quickly after the end of the fermentation in order to get suppler tannins, and this approach clearly was constructive in 2008. As to the potential longevity of the new crop of wines? "Certainly at least a mid-term ager," said Bachelet. The wines had not yet been racked at the time of my visit, but Bachelet had added three tiny doses of SO2 along the way. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)