2018 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
France
Charmes Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2018
2023 - 2050
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How bloody good are Denis Bachelet’s wines? Forget points, forget the superlative for a moment. These are wines that remind you that when it comes to Pinot Noir, to quote the great Carly Simon, nobody does it better (than Burgundy). These are wines that I don’t want to write about and proselytise, I want to drink them with my best Burgundy-loving compadres. "The harvest began on 2 September and lasted for five days," Bachelet told me, once I had explained to him why I am looking a bit thinner compared to 12 months ago. "There was no rot and there was a very good maturity of grapes. It was warm during harvest so we cooled the grapes upon the arrival at the winery. Everything was destemmed as usual and the alcoholic degrees are between 12.5% and 13.2%. The surprise is that the warmth of the growing season seemed to concentrate the alcohol and the acidity at the same time." What can I say - superlative, tensile, ethereal wines and that extends from Bachelet’s entry level crus up to his eight and a quarter barrels of Charmes-Chambertin.
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2023
2030 - 2060
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Denis Bachelet is one of my shortest visits since he normally has five cuvées, though due to the larger volume in 2023, the Les Evocelles is now an additional bottling rather than being blended into Les Corbeaux. “It is the biggest vintage I have made,” he tells me. “I estimate the date of harvest by the date of flowering and that date was put back because the weather was not so good in mid-August. Then, there was the heat wave so I started the harvest on September 9 and picked over six days. Everything is destemmed, as usual. All wines are matured in 50% new oak using some of the barrels that I bought for the 2021 vintage.” This year, I found a tad more black fruit in his cuvées due to the warm July, perhaps not quite the complexity or mineralité evident in the nascent 2022s, yet with his trademark precision and pedigree. These are wines that you just want to drink and enjoy. Quantities are always small although at least there is a little more to go round in 2023, unlike in 2024 where he has around half the crop.
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2022
2030 - 2065
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It is always a pleasure to visit Denis Bachelet, although I worry that he worries too much. He is rightly concerned about the changes in the growing season due to global warming, with memories of the destructive torrential rain in June 2022 fresh in his mind. “We saw some coulure after the June storms,” he tells me. “Consequently the older vines suffered some court noué. There was a bit of stress in the vines. I picked from September 1 over the next five-and-a-half days, and they will be bottled in March according to the lunar calendar. At the moment, they are not as expressive as 2020 at this stage.” I have adored Bachelet’s wines since I started buying them around the millennium, when cognoscenti mostly overlooked them. They still exude poise and refinement, an effortless quintet full of energy. They are crowned by his sublime Charmes-Chambertin from some of its oldest vines, along with Roty’s, seeming to elevate them above all else.
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2021
2025 - 2045
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Denis Bachelet seems exhausted even just thinking about the 2021 season when I call in at his winery in Gevrey-Chambertin. “It was complicated with all the damage and climate,” he rues. “We had a lot of frost, and it was cold into May. The vines took time to get going, and then in June, they exploded as they tried to catch up. But I had lost more than 50% of the volume. There were only five cagettes of Evocelles. It reminds me of the frost we had back in 1981. On 22 June was the big deluge from the Combe de Lavaux that brought some hail, but it was too early in the season to do serious damage. June and July saw a lot of rain, and mildew pressure was strong. It was difficult to spray, though August saw some improvement. There was a lot of coulure, especially on the older vines that suffer degeneration [from the 161-59 clone]. I started picking on 18 September, and there were four days of harvest. The bunches were healthy, so I did not need to sort much. I did a little more extraction as the vintage was like one from the 1970s and 1080s.”
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2020
2025 - 2050
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Having missed visiting Denis Bachelet back in November, I was eager to return to one of Gevrey-Chambertin’s top growers. Bachelet received me on a Saturday morning as he was due to bottle his 2020s the following Monday. Therefore, I have treated these as finished wines. After lamenting the recent spell of dry weather, the ominous risk of frost of that following weekend and the toll this has exacted upon volumes, reducing his Charmes-Chambertin from 8 to just 3 barrels in 2021, I set about his five 2020s, one less because his Les Evocelles was too small to be bottled separately. Bachelet commenced picking on 27 August. Of course, I always adore the crown jewel, the Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, though as a punter, I would jump on his Côte de Nuits-Villages and Bourgogne Rouge where you can enjoy Bachelet’s craftsmanship without damaging your wallet.
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2019
2024 - 2045
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Denis Bachelet was the only visit rescued from my cancelled last week of tasting. I had to forego my baguette for lunch, but the wines were worth the sacrifice. Covid aside, the pandemic is not the only challenge that Bachelet has faced in recent months. “The summer dryness means that we are 40% down in terms of quantity,” a rueful Bachelet told me as we descended down the precariously steep steps to the barrel cellar. “There have been three consecutive dry seasons and it is beginning to affect the vines. There is just no water. In 2020 it was even less. I started picking on 14 September.” What can I say that I have not written before? From the entry Côte de Nuits-Villages up to the Charmes-Chambertin, all the 2019s bare the hallmarks of Bachelet’s style: pure red fruit aromas, stunning delineation, machine-tooled precision and bewitching grace on their finishes. The only downside is that the shortfall means there is no Les Evocelles this year.
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2011
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2011
2017 - 2031
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Denis Bachelet's 2011s are just as beautiful from bottle as they were from barrel. Bachelet had to be patient in waiting to allow some of his late-ripening parcels to mature as disease pressure mounted towards the end of the harvest.
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2011
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Bachelet always destems but does not crush his fruit.Owing to substantial millerandage in his old vines, he ends up fermenting with a high percentage of whole berries, which is partly responsible for the creamy richness of his wines.Bachelet told me that he harvested in 2011 with potential alcohol between 11.6% and 12%, explaining that it was impossible to wait for fuller ripeness and higher sugars due to the risk of spreading rot.But the grapes were in good condition, he noted, and he did more extraction than in the average year, although the pre-fermentation cold soak was shorter than usual due to the warm ambient conditions at the time of harvest (Bachelet began on August 31).In its acidity, noted Bachelet, 2011 reminds him of such past vintages as 2006 and 2001. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd, www.martinscottwines.com and Wines Unlimited, www.winesunlimited.com)
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2010
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2010
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Denis Bachelet describes his 2010s as "a bit in the style of 2006 and 2001." What does the vintage lack, I asked him. "I don't think like that," he responded. "It's what nature gave us." Bachelet told me he eliminated some underripe grapes at harvest-time but did not have any problems with rot. He noted that his 2008s had higher acidity than the 2010s, with significantly more malic acidity in particular. "The two vintages are not comparable," he said. Bachelet does two punchdowns daily until the end of the fermentations, then much less in the way of pigeage in order to avoid extracting hard tannins. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)
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2009
2021 - 2039
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Denis Bachelet's 2009s showed better from bottle than they did from barrel. This is a gorgeous set of wines.
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2009
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2009
2019 - 2039
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Denis Bachelet farms four hectares of vineyards, which are just enough to produce about 20,000 bottles of wine per year. Many of the vineyards are old, which contributes to a house style built on power and textural richness.
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2009
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Bachelet considers 2009 a great vintage, "like 2002 and 1999, other vintages whose wines show great sucrosite." The huge rainstorm on July 14 (about 150 millimeters fell in Gevrey-Chambertin, according to Bachelet) gave the soil good water reserves for August and September. "The concentration in 2005 was partly due to the drying of the grapes on the vine during drought conditions, but we didn't have that issue in 2009," he noted. "The 2009s may always be good to drink," he went on. "They're certainly easy to approach today." He credits his "ideal" pHs of 2009 (mostly in the 3.45 range) to his high percentage of very old vines. Bachelet started picking on September 12 and made the full allowable yields. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)
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2008
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2008
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As most of the 2008 malos didn't end here until September, Denis Bachelet warned that his wines were "not yet in the full maturity of their elevage and really need another two months. It really takes until four or five months after the malos to reveal the pleasure of the wines." I had another appointment that morning so I couldn't wait the requisite four months, but the wines showed considerable promise. Bachelet told me he harvested with potential alcohols in the 12% to 12.5% range. He always eliminates a portion of underripe grapes "as the selection massale always gives a range of ripeness." Bachelet also noted that in the past few years, he's pressing more quickly after the end of the fermentation in order to get suppler tannins, and this approach clearly was constructive in 2008. As to the potential longevity of the new crop of wines? "Certainly at least a mid-term ager," said Bachelet. The wines had not yet been racked at the time of my visit, but Bachelet had added three tiny doses of SO2 along the way. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)
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2007
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As most of the 2008 malos didn't end here until September, Denis Bachelet warned that his wines were "not yet in the full maturity of their elevage and really need another two months. It really takes until four or five months after the malos to reveal the pleasure of the wines." I had another appointment that morning so I couldn't wait the requisite four months, but the wines showed considerable promise. Bachelet told me he harvested with potential alcohols in the 12% to 12.5% range. He always eliminates a portion of underripe grapes "as the selection massale always gives a range of ripeness." Bachelet also noted that in the past few years, he's pressing more quickly after the end of the fermentation in order to get suppler tannins, and this approach clearly was constructive in 2008. As to the potential longevity of the new crop of wines? "Certainly at least a mid-term ager," said Bachelet. The wines had not yet been racked at the time of my visit, but Bachelet had added three tiny doses of SO2 along the way. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)
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2007
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Bachelet made his normal yields of 40 to 45 hectoliters per hectare in 2007, as the old vines here are very consistent. He leaves eight to ten clusters in the spring because he doesn't want too much energy to go into the remaining fruit if the summer is rainy. At the time of the green harvest he reduces the crop to seven or eight bunches, but because he is more interested in aerating the clusters, he tends not to eliminate fruit on his old vines when the grapes are small, as they were in 2007. Bachelet describes 2004 and 2005 as more masculine vintages, while 2006, 2007 and 2008 are easier-to-understand vins de plaisir. "It was critical to be rigorous with treatments in 2007 as well as 2008 to protect the foliage," he told me, adding that the bio people had a lot of problems with mildew. Bachelet typically carries out a long debourbage and starts with a relatively small quantity of lees; he protects his wines by keeping a lot of gas straight through to the end of the elevage. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
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2006
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Bachelet made his normal yields of 40 to 45 hectoliters per hectare in 2007, as the old vines here are very consistent. He leaves eight to ten clusters in the spring because he doesn't want too much energy to go into the remaining fruit if the summer is rainy. At the time of the green harvest he reduces the crop to seven or eight bunches, but because he is more interested in aerating the clusters, he tends not to eliminate fruit on his old vines when the grapes are small, as they were in 2007. Bachelet describes 2004 and 2005 as more masculine vintages, while 2006, 2007 and 2008 are easier-to-understand vins de plaisir. "It was critical to be rigorous with treatments in 2007 as well as 2008 to protect the foliage," he told me, adding that the bio people had a lot of problems with mildew. Bachelet typically carries out a long debourbage and starts with a relatively small quantity of lees; he protects his wines by keeping a lot of gas straight through to the end of the elevage. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
00
2006
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Bachelet picked his fruit in 2006 with potential alcohol in the low 12% range, and chaptalized to about 13% to prolong the fermentations. "We need acidity here," he explained. "It's not California." Still, he told me, the sugars in some parcels in 2006 were at least as high as those of the previous year, when very dry conditions resulted in a blockage of maturity in some sites. The 2006 malos ended late (mostly in July and August), and yet the wines were easier to taste than the 2005s were a year ago. Bachelet's obsession with making wines with energy served him very well in 2005, as this looks to be an outstanding vintage here. For his part, Bachelet describes this set of wines as very closed and in need of long aging, but their high quality was clear in November. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
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2005
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Bachelet picked his fruit in 2006 with potential alcohol in the low 12% range, and chaptalized to about 13% to prolong the fermentations. "We need acidity here," he explained. "It's not California." Still, he told me, the sugars in some parcels in 2006 were at least as high as those of the previous year, when very dry conditions resulted in a blockage of maturity in some sites. The 2006 malos ended late (mostly in July and August), and yet the wines were easier to taste than the 2005s were a year ago. Bachelet's obsession with making wines with energy served him very well in 2005, as this looks to be an outstanding vintage here. For his part, Bachelet describes this set of wines as very closed and in need of long aging, but their high quality was clear in November. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
00
2005
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As an indication of how cold France was during August of 2006, Bachelet told me he had to heat his cellar to get the 2005 malolactic fermentations to finish. He probably won't bottle these wines until April of 2007, but he feels that this vintage can easily support a longer elevage. Bachelet was not the only vigneron in Gevrey-Chambertin to tell me that he is finding "a return to acidity" in the wines from this village, as the soils here continue to recover from all the potassium additions made in the '60s and '70s. Incidentally, Bachelet feels that his 2004s are very closed and need a lot of time. He describes these wines as tight and peppery today: "a spicy vintage." About 2005, he went on, "there's not a lot to say, except that we had a bit of drought." And the wines have tightened up, he added, since the temperature of the cellar came down during a cold week at the beginning of November. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
00
2004
2019 - 2029
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2004
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As an indication of how cold France was during August of 2006, Bachelet told me he had to heat his cellar to get the 2005 malolactic fermentations to finish. He probably won't bottle these wines until April of 2007, but he feels that this vintage can easily support a longer elevage. Bachelet was not the only vigneron in Gevrey-Chambertin to tell me that he is finding "a return to acidity" in the wines from this village, as the soils here continue to recover from all the potassium additions made in the '60s and '70s. Incidentally, Bachelet feels that his 2004s are very closed and need a lot of time. He describes these wines as tight and peppery today: "a spicy vintage." About 2005, he went on, "there's not a lot to say, except that we had a bit of drought." And the wines have tightened up, he added, since the temperature of the cellar came down during a cold week at the beginning of November. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
00
2004
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Bachelet believes that the 2004s resemble the 2001s in the nature of their acidity, and does not think either of these vintages is for drinking young. Bachelet told me he carried out a green harvest, then eliminated less-good fruit both in the vines at harvest time and on a vibrating sorting table in the winery. Although he told me that he has been working with riper grapes since 1999 and 2000, he emphasized that he still seeks to make wines with finesse and elegance. "I never follow la mode; I make the kind of wines I like," he said. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
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2003
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Bachelet believes that the 2004s resemble the 2001s in the nature of their acidity, and does not think either of these vintages is for drinking young. Bachelet told me he carried out a green harvest, then eliminated less-good fruit both in the vines at harvest time and on a vibrating sorting table in the winery. Although he told me that he has been working with riper grapes since 1999 and 2000, he emphasized that he still seeks to make wines with finesse and elegance. "I never follow la mode; I make the kind of wines I like," he said. (A Becky Wasserman selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA; and Vinalia Imports, Camarillo, CA)
00
2002
2019 - 2035
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2001
2017 - 2027
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1999
2021 - 2040
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1999
2019 - 2037
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1999
2018 - 2032
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
00
1999
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My first visit in several years to this micro-domain (just 3.1 hectares) was well-timed, since Bachelet describes 1999 as "a reference year, the best vintage I've ever made. The wines have a tenderness but with a lot of structure. They're a bit like '96 but with less acidity." Bachelet began leaf-pulling in '99; with such limited holdings, this labor-intensive technique is feasible, he told me. Aerating the grapes, he continued, enabled him to get a bit more ripeness in 1999 and to avoid rot in 2000. Bachelet had no '98s left to show; Burgundy lovers with good connections may want to make early arrangements to snag a bottle or two of Bachelet superb '99 Charmes-Chambertin. (A Becky Wasserman Selection; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY and Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA)
00
1998
2019 - 2035
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00
1996
2019 - 2035
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1993
2019 - 2035
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1990
2019 - 2032
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1990
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This wine was tasted during La Paulée de New York, 2007.
00
1988
2023 - 2040
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1987
2019 - 2024
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1985
2019 - 2029
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