2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve
$300 (2022)
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
90% Grenache, Syrah, Counoise, Cinsault (2022 vintage)
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2005
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According to general manager Andreas Becker, Vieille Julienne is an estate "of multiple parcels on a variety of Chateauneuf soils. We make every possible effort to maximize the expression of each piece, no matter how small." Nothing is rushed here, he continued, and the wines are raised, bottled and released with no pre-set schedule. One practice that is firmly established is the banishment of new oak, since it is "an outside influence" on the wine's character. The harvest in 2004 extended for over five weeks, which Becker said allowed for a wine of great complexity, "which is our objective."
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2022
2030 - 2045
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Antoine Daumen recalled that from early October until about Christmas in 2021, the estate received around 300mm of rainfall. This was a crucial help for the soil in preparation for the hot and dry 2022 growing season. From January to April, there was occasional rainfall, but less so than in previous years. By May and June, critical periods for the vines, there was plenty of water in the soil. "Despite the fairly hot, dry, and also windy summer, which accelerated water evaporation, the vines didn't see a lot of stress," Daumen remarked. "That said, we saw occasional ripening blockages in August, but that was solved by two crucial rainfalls totaling around 40mm." Daumen also pointed to the old vines, of which there are many. With their deeper and better-established root systems, they were able to access water deep in the soils, helping them sustain through excessive heat and drought. Moving on to the wines, the Daumen’s have stopped purchasing grapes for their négociant business and now focus solely on wines made from grapes they grow themselves. A new cuvée in their portfolio is the simple yet pretty Ceci Est Un Flacon de Vin de France, blending Grenache with Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cinsault and Syrah. Half of the Syrah undergoes carbonic maceration to highlight the fresh fruit character in the wine. Tasting the bottled 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape shows that the Daumens fared well in this challenging vintage, with the iconic Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve being a real standout. The 2022 turned out even more enticing, cruising at similar heights to the 2019 and 2020. It comes as no surprise that the 2022 Réserve is one of the wines of the vintage. To conclude this visit, I asked Daumen to pour a sample of the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a vintage marked by robust tannins – much more so than in 2022. It was interesting to see that after almost 20 years of age, the wine still possesses its marked tannic structure. Still, the complex aromatics and elevated fruit concentration are in total balance.
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2021
2028 - 2041
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Antoine Daumen recalled that from early October until about Christmas in 2021, the estate received around 300mm of rainfall. This was a crucial help for the soil in preparation for the hot and dry 2022 growing season. From January to April, there was occasional rainfall, but less so than in previous years. By May and June, critical periods for the vines, there was plenty of water in the soil. "Despite the fairly hot, dry, and also windy summer, which accelerated water evaporation, the vines didn't see a lot of stress," Daumen remarked. "That said, we saw occasional ripening blockages in August, but that was solved by two crucial rainfalls totaling around 40mm." Daumen also pointed to the old vines, of which there are many. With their deeper and better-established root systems, they were able to access water deep in the soils, helping them sustain through excessive heat and drought. Moving on to the wines, the Daumen’s have stopped purchasing grapes for their négociant business and now focus solely on wines made from grapes they grow themselves. A new cuvée in their portfolio is the simple yet pretty Ceci Est Un Flacon de Vin de France, blending Grenache with Mourvèdre, Counoise, Cinsault and Syrah. Half of the Syrah undergoes carbonic maceration to highlight the fresh fruit character in the wine. Tasting the bottled 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape shows that the Daumens fared well in this challenging vintage, with the iconic Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve being a real standout. The 2022 turned out even more enticing, cruising at similar heights to the 2019 and 2020. It comes as no surprise that the 2022 Réserve is one of the wines of the vintage. To conclude this visit, I asked Daumen to pour a sample of the 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a vintage marked by robust tannins – much more so than in 2022. It was interesting to see that after almost 20 years of age, the wine still possesses its marked tannic structure. Still, the complex aromatics and elevated fruit concentration are in total balance.
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2018
2026 - 2038
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2017
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2016
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In the view of Jean-Paul Daumen, “2016 was a bit of a relief after 2015 [a truly great year, he pointed out] because there was so little to worry about from the weather.” Daumen added that he, like all other growers, welcomes as little stress as possible, “and we’ve had some stressful years recently, especially with flowering.” Daumen now owns almost 55 hectares of vines, all contiguously planted, and while his wines show, to me, a greater measure of elegance than they did a decade ago, he still produces some of the appellation’s most cellar-worthy wines. These 2016s should make that point quite clear when they are released.
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2015
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Owner/winemaker Jean-Paul Daumen thinks that the 2015 vintage bears favorable comparison to 2005 “but with the energy and fresh acidity of 2006 to buffer the power, structure and richness." Those who follow this estate’s wines will find plenty to like from ’15 as the vintage suits Daumen’s tendency to produce deeply flavored, densely packed, intense wines that are built to age on a long, slow curve. That said, I have been finding these wines to show more polished tannins than from, say, a decade ago, which allows them to be approachable at a relatively younger age. Still, these are wines that reward patience and it wouldn’t surprise me to see the ‘15s cruising along nicely well into their second decade of age.
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2012
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In the opinion of Jean-Paul Daumen, 2013 was "a really strange year, where the fruit in the wines is in the dark spectrum while the wines themselves are somewhat light and elegant." He pointed out that most people associate lightness with red fruits, like raspberry, and deeper wines with darker fruits like cherry and cassis, "but in 2013 it's the opposite." He attributes this to the fact that he had to rely more on the later-ripening grapes "so you get the Syrah and Mourvèdre character with minerality, and that comes off as a little odd." On the subject of his 2012s, Daumen said that they're "quite a bit like the 2010s but less strict in their tannins and structure, so they'll be enjoyable earlier and even before the '10s", a vintage that he classifies as "one of the greats, but not for the impatient or those who like easy wines."
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2012
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Recent vintages here have yielded wines that, while plenty rich and often among the most powerful of the appellation, are distinctly more restrained than those of a decade ago.Jean-Paul Daumen pointed out that the ripeness that nature has imparted in recent vintages has necessitated a lighter touch in the cellar because "the extraction is, in a way, happening in the vineyard," and thus it has been critical to emphasize "freshness, balance and energy" in the wines rather than weight and power.He views the 2011s as "about balance" and thinks that they'll probably turn out like the 1999s, which he says many people wrote off in their early days.Richness is not a problem for his '11s, Daumen said, pointing out that his two Chateauneufs both check in at around 16% alcohol."So calling them lightweights is a bit silly."
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2010
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2010
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Jean-Paul Daumen told me that since he always subjects his 10 hectares of vineyards and fruit to a severe selection, "production doesn't vary much from vintage to vintage, it's always low." Anybody who has tried to track down the Vieille Julienne wines in the marketplace will vouch for that, and intense worldwide demand for the wines doesn't help matters. These are among the richest and most powerful 2010s I tasted but they actually display a greater measure of finesse than the wines that Daumen was producing in the 1990s and early 2000s. I asked him what might have changed here to cause the shift; he said he began to make a conscious move toward more elegance after the 2003 vintage, "when nature provided ripe fruit like never before." He's more careful to harvest before the onset of surmaturite now and pays particular attention to moving the wines less than a decade ago "so that exposure to air is minimized, thus retaining freshness of fruit and minimizing the risk of oxidation." (Pascal Schildt/USA Wine West, www.pascalschildt.com; T. Edward Wines, www.tedwardwines.com)
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2010
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Jean-Paul Daumen told me that the strongest point of 2010 is that it is a consistently fine vintage up and down the range of wines and across the varieties and the whole region. "You can't say that the north got this or the south got that," he told me. "Everybody had great weather and every variety was able to reach full maturity." He added that the balance of tannins and fruit is ideal, "which means that the wines will probably never really go into a classic closed phase and be difficult to enjoy, although they really should be aged." In contrast, he went on, 2009 was a year where the tannins weren't always easy to manage. "There should be enough fruit for the wines to age well but there will also be wines whose tannins are rough and will never fully marry with the fruit."
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2009
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Jean-Paul Daumen told me that the strongest point of 2010 is that it is a consistently fine vintage up and down the range of wines and across the varieties and the whole region. "You can't say that the north got this or the south got that," he told me. "Everybody had great weather and every variety was able to reach full maturity." He added that the balance of tannins and fruit is ideal, "which means that the wines will probably never really go into a classic closed phase and be difficult to enjoy, although they really should be aged." In contrast, he went on, 2009 was a year where the tannins weren't always easy to manage. "There should be enough fruit for the wines to age well but there will also be wines whose tannins are rough and will never fully marry with the fruit."
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1999
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1999
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1999
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1998
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1998
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1998
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