2009 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru

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This unforgettable evening was an auction lot built around an all-access pass to wines from my personal cellar paired with dinner donated by Saison that was sold at the most recent Festa del Barolo to support children’s pediatrics at the Mount Sinai Hospital. I would like to extend a huge ‘thank you!’ to our patrons for their extraordinary generosity. This dinner raised $55,000, 100% of which went to charity.

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Aubert de Villaine is an honest judge of vintages, so I was not surprised to hear him describe 2009 as a vintage of charm. "It's a vintage with a smiling face, for both the vigneron and the consumer," he told me. "But so far it doesn't have the dimension or complexity of 2005 or 1999." The team here typically vinified with about 90% whole clusters. The malos finished on the early side-in the spring-but de Villaine was in no rush to bottle the '09s. Potential alcohol levels were generally 12.8% to 13% in 2009, and there were plenty of millerande grapes to release their sugars at the end of the fermentations, which typically gives a wine more glycerol. "The 2009s are more sensual, the 2008s more spiritual," he summarized. "The 2009s are like spending time with a courtesan, the 2008s like spending time with an intellectual." They're both pretty sexy.

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