2009 Richebourg Grand Cru

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I was thrilled to be a part of the 11th Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival, held this past fall in Toronto. The weekend long program of seminars, tastings and dinners hosted by an incredible collection of luminaries from the worlds of wine and food helped raise $5.5m for the McEwen Centre for Regenerative Medicine, one of the world’s leading research centers focused on stem cell research. These two smaller events within Grand Cru showcased the wines of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and brought in donations of $1m.

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This wine was tasted in a remarkable survey of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Grands-Échézeaux and Richebourg that spanned four decades going back to 1966. The setting was the World Wine Symposium at the Villa d’Este in Lake Como, one of the most idyllic places anywhere in the world. Co-Manager Aubert de Villaine presided over the tasting with his usual dry, understated sense of humor. “I am sure many of you, like me, you could stay for hours having a dialogue with these wines. It’s much better than with many people…” I can’t argue with that.

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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 2009s have turned out just as brilliantly as I had hoped. The wines reflect the signature qualities of the year, but never lose their essential classicism. Long-time DRC fans know the domaine bottles in six-barrel lots, which naturally introduces a level of bottle variation that is not found in most other wines. I hope the massive amount of information that has recently come to light regarding counterfeit wines and their proliferation might be the catalyst for the domaine to consider bottling their wines in one homogenous lot, as is common for the vast majority of high-quality wines throughout the world. Once the domaine's wines mature in 20-30 years it will be impossible to tell the difference between ‘normal' bottle variation, poorly stored bottles and very good fakes. Certainly consumers who are willing and able to pay the prices these wines fetch are at the very least deserving of a consistent product.

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Aubert de Villaine is an honest judge of vintages, so I was not surprised to hear him describe 2009 as a vintage of charm. "It's a vintage with a smiling face, for both the vigneron and the consumer," he told me. "But so far it doesn't have the dimension or complexity of 2005 or 1999." The team here typically vinified with about 90% whole clusters. The malos finished on the early side-in the spring-but de Villaine was in no rush to bottle the '09s. Potential alcohol levels were generally 12.8% to 13% in 2009, and there were plenty of millerande grapes to release their sugars at the end of the fermentations, which typically gives a wine more glycerol. "The 2009s are more sensual, the 2008s more spiritual," he summarized. "The 2009s are like spending time with a courtesan, the 2008s like spending time with an intellectual." They're both pretty sexy.

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