2023 Corton Grand Cru

It is always a privilege to return to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Bertrand de Villaine in voluble form as he details the growing season and approaches to viticulture. Having visited for many years now, I covet the domaine as one of its few constants, then again, that is not strictly true. Biodynamics were introduced around 20 years ago, as well as nowadays being received by Bertrand instead of Aubert de Villaine. Another significant personnel change is with the chef de cave, Alexandre Bernier, who succeeded Bernard Noblet in 2018.

Amongst the subjects discussed were how some plots in Richebourg have been pulled up because of unproductive old vines, some due to degenerating 161-49 rootstock, fatigued after recent extreme weather conditions. He talked about picking prudent and early. To summarize, it is better to go in early, taste the fruit and then realize it might be premature, rather than leave it to the last moment and realize it is too late. There is also an impact upon vinification, as yeast populations suffer in warmer conditions. The headline for the 2023 vintage, which I will expand upon in my annual in-bottle report, is that the harvest began on September 7 with the Montrachet and Grands-Echézeaux. Picking took place over 12 days. Simply, the 2023 reds are all matured with 100% whole bunches in 100% new oak.

This is always a fascinating exploration of prenatal wines. This year, at least in barrel, I found the gap wider between the Echézeaux and Grands-Echézeaux, the mark of the vintage more evident on the Romanée-Saint-Vivant compared to the Richebourg, and a tangible stylistic difference between La Tâche and Romanée-Conti. With respect to the latter, quite simply, it is one of the greatest I have tasted from barrel since I first visited. No, I did not use the spittoon. Finally, readers should note that as expected, there will be a Cuvée Duvault-Blochet and a Vosne-Romanée Les Petits-Monts, the latter distributed directly to restaurants, which inevitably results in a Pokémon-like search across France…