2019 Cornas Champelrose
$67 (2020)
France
Cornas
Northern Rhône
Red
Syrah (2020 vintage)
00
2019
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There was a large crop in 2018, Laurent Courbis told me. “Bigger than 2019, and that’s probably a factor in the energy and softer tannins compared to 2018.” Also, the skins were thicker in 2019 than in 2018, “so you’re going to see a more pronounced expression of tannins.” Both vintages will age well, he thinks, “but the 2018s have their tannins integrating well and pretty fast while the 2019s will probably take more time.”
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2020
2026 - 2036
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Two-thousand and twenty-one and, to some extent, 2020 are a welcome return to a classic style of Cornas, Laurent Courbis told me. “The richness and generosity of the 2019s, 2018s and 2017s are nothing to complain about,” he laughed, noting that those vintages sold out in a flash. Many people now prefer a more elegant and structured personality, he thinks, “more like 2016, as an example, but with hot conditions, which are becoming normal, that’s not so easy to accomplish.” On the subject, the wines here are always done in an outgoing, often flamboyant style, with ample new oak in play. All the current and upcoming Courbis releases will benefit enormously from cellaring because there is always an underlying core of minerality that deserves some time to express itself. The current line-up of wines exhibits intensely concentrated fruit, and they are all worthy of patience to allow the oak influence to recede.
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2019
2025 - 2034
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Two-thousand and twenty-one and, to some extent, 2020 are a welcome return to a classic style of Cornas, Laurent Courbis told me. “The richness and generosity of the 2019s, 2018s and 2017s are nothing to complain about,” he laughed, noting that those vintages sold out in a flash. Many people now prefer a more elegant and structured personality, he thinks, “more like 2016, as an example, but with hot conditions, which are becoming normal, that’s not so easy to accomplish.” On the subject, the wines here are always done in an outgoing, often flamboyant style, with ample new oak in play. All the current and upcoming Courbis releases will benefit enormously from cellaring because there is always an underlying core of minerality that deserves some time to express itself. The current line-up of wines exhibits intensely concentrated fruit, and they are all worthy of patience to allow the oak influence to recede.
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2018
2024 - 2033
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Two-thousand and twenty-one and, to some extent, 2020 are a welcome return to a classic style of Cornas, Laurent Courbis told me. “The richness and generosity of the 2019s, 2018s and 2017s are nothing to complain about,” he laughed, noting that those vintages sold out in a flash. Many people now prefer a more elegant and structured personality, he thinks, “more like 2016, as an example, but with hot conditions, which are becoming normal, that’s not so easy to accomplish.” On the subject, the wines here are always done in an outgoing, often flamboyant style, with ample new oak in play. All the current and upcoming Courbis releases will benefit enormously from cellaring because there is always an underlying core of minerality that deserves some time to express itself. The current line-up of wines exhibits intensely concentrated fruit, and they are all worthy of patience to allow the oak influence to recede.
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2017
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There's a new wine in the Courbis line-up, a Crozes-Hermitage from a one hectare plot of vines between Chassis and Pont de l'Isère, in the gravelly southern sector of the appellation. Laurent Courbis said that the intent is to take advantage of the relative approachability of wines from such soil compared to the "more solid and structured wines that come from granite, like we have at Cornas and Saint-Joseph." Courbis said that the region “has had an incredible run of great years, like nothing in the past” and commented that he found the 2017s to be more like 2016 than 2018, with the freshness of the earlier year showing more than the ripeness of the latter. With that in mind he thinks that both the ‘18s and 2017s should be drunk before the 2016s, which he thinks are “really outstanding for their balance of structure, energy and finesse.” I think that both the 2017s and 2018s will likely never really shut down, thus providing plenty of drinking pleasure throughout their lives.
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2016
2023 - 2033
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The Courbis wines continue to sneak under many Rhône lovers’ radar despite a steady and consistent uptick in quality for at least the last decade. Perhaps that’s because almost two-thirds of what Courbis make is sold in France, mostly direct to consumers, which makes them far less dependent on export markets than the vast majority of their colleagues. This family has roots in the region that date back to the 1500s. Today, Laurent and his brother, Dominique, oversee the domaine’s 33 hectares of vines, eight of which are in Cornas, in some of the appellation’s most prized sites, including Les Eygats and Sabarotte. The style tends to be fruit-forward and robust, with polished character and often, when the wines are young, strong but not excessive (to my taste, at least) new oak character. These 2016s are more vibrant than usual, a function of the vintage, no doubt.
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2016
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"A vintage that's much easier to enjoy when young compared to the 2015s" is how Laurent Courbis described his 2016s. "While the ‘15s really need to be put away for a long time, you'll be able to enjoy many '16s soon." There's always a decent amount of new oak in play here but, even when it hits 100%, as is the case with Cornas La Sabarotte, I rarely find the wines to be unduly oaky, especially after they get seven or so years of bottle age.
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2015
2022 - 2029
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2015
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The 2015 vintage welcomes a new bottling for brothers Laurent and Dominique Courbis. Sourced from a south-facing plot of 25-year-old vines on pure granite soils just south of the domaine's home base in Châteaubourg, the appropriately named Saint-Joseph La Côte Sud is a small-production wine, with only 3,000 bottles made in this inaugural vintage. Laurent said he found the wine to be worthy of a discrete bottling given the fact that it has, as he put it, "the warmth of its exposition and the energy of its soil." In the context of the other wines produced here, it’s a more powerful wine than the other Courbis Saint-Josephs. In fact, I’d place it somewhere between the assertively fruity and gregarious Cornas Champelrose and the more structured and minerally Cornas Les Eygats. The quintessential (or maybe stereotypical) Cornas La Sabarotte is another brooding, dusky beast altogether. I've been a long-time proponent of the Courbis brothers, whose wines have gotten a bum rap from hardcore traditionalists. So I'm encouraged by the market's recent embrace of the work at Alain Voge, whose wines, like those here, have been derided as too modern, too easy, too fruity and so forth for too long. The lineup here deserves the same second look and reconsideration - the quality speaks for itself.
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2014
2021 - 2027
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Compared to his cellar-demanding 2015s, Laurent Courbis thinks that his 2014s are “easy and expressive, with good depth and adequate tannins to age, but if you have 2010s and 2013s in the cellar and 2015s coming in, why wait?” The fruit-driven character of Courbis’ Cornas bottlings, regardless of vintage, belies their ability to age, I think. By traditional Cornas standards, the wines, especially from barrel and soon after bottling, are decidedly modern in character, with oak-spiced fruit to the fore, little in the way of gamy character, and smooth, polished texture and rounded tannins. In other words, the antithesis of how the old wine books describe a typical Cornas. But in my experience, a few years of bottle age starts to coax out a wilder side of the wines and, at age 10 or so, they are unmistakably Cornas.
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2014
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Laurent Courbis told me that he finds 2014 to be a vintage "for those who like their Syrah young and sweet," while 2013 "is for those who don't mind waiting for a while and appreciate more structure." That said, "2013 isn't a forbidding year, like 2010, for example, because the tannins and structure are in good harmony with the fruit, which is extremely fresh."
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2013
2020 - 2025
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Laurent Courbis told me that he finds 2014 to be a vintage "for those who like their Syrah young and sweet," while 2013 "is for those who don't mind waiting for a while and appreciate more structure." That said, "2013 isn't a forbidding year, like 2010, for example, because the tannins and structure are in good harmony with the fruit, which is extremely fresh."
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2011
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It's a mistake to generalize that all 2011s are delicate wines, Laurent Courbis told me. Because of the accelerated growing season "we got completely normal ripeness and numbers, so our winemaking regimen was the same as always." That means that the Eygats bottling saw 50% new oak and the Sabarotte got its usual 100% new barrels because "there was no reason to back off to accommodate weak fruit. The fruit was beautiful, in fact." It doesn't hurt that the Courbis family owns some of the best sites in Cornas, most of them planted to old, petite serine vines that produce naturally low yields--or the fact that they are willing to sell off fruit from even their best parcels to ensure a high-quality wine under their own label. This is a large estate and cellar, by Cornas standards, with 8 hectares in Cornas itself, and 24 more in Saint-Joseph, plus a 1-hectare parcel of non-AOC syrah vines, so strict selection is easier here than for most smaller properties.
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2010
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It's a mistake to generalize that all 2011s are delicate wines, Laurent Courbis told me. Because of the accelerated growing season "we got completely normal ripeness and numbers, so our winemaking regimen was the same as always." That means that the Eygats bottling saw 50% new oak and the Sabarotte got its usual 100% new barrels because "there was no reason to back off to accommodate weak fruit. The fruit was beautiful, in fact." It doesn't hurt that the Courbis family owns some of the best sites in Cornas, most of them planted to old, petite serine vines that produce naturally low yields--or the fact that they are willing to sell off fruit from even their best parcels to ensure a high-quality wine under their own label. This is a large estate and cellar, by Cornas standards, with 8 hectares in Cornas itself, and 24 more in Saint-Joseph, plus a 1-hectare parcel of non-AOC syrah vines, so strict selection is easier here than for most smaller properties.
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2010
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Laurent Courbis told me that the most striking aspect of the 2010s is their vibrancy, in both white and red wines. Compared to these wines, he said, "the 2009s can sometimes look almost too masculine, which is fine because fans of that type have a lot to choose from." He thinks that 2010 "showcases the potential for syrah to be graceful, and really a northern grape, not one of Provence." Courbis emphasized that syrah grown on granite can be extremely elegant, "and while the '08s showed nice finesse they don't have anywhere near the material of the 2010s. It's nice to have power and elegance at the same time."
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2009
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Laurent Courbis told me that the most striking aspect of the 2010s is their vibrancy, in both white and red wines.Compared to these wines, he said, "the 2009s can sometimes look almost too masculine, which is fine because fans of that type have a lot to choose from."He thinks that 2010 "showcases the potential for syrah to be graceful, and really a northern grape, not one of Provence."Courbis emphasized that syrah grown on granite can be extremely elegant, "and while the '08s showed nice finesse they don't have anywhere near the material of the 2010s.It's nice to have power and elegance at the same time."
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2008
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According to Laurent Courbis, "the reds in 2008 are very delicate while the white wines tend to be very strong, with the material to hold up well in the cellar." When I tasted here in mid-November Courbis told me that he hadn't decided whether to bottle the 2008 Saint-Joseph Les Royes or blend it down to the regular bottling but was leaning toward making a single Saint-Joseph from this vintage. He is fairly sure that he will bottle the usual line-up of Cornas bottlings, though. "The best vineyards in Cornas did pretty well in 2008," he said, adding that "they never really make delicate wines, regardless of the vintage. Water can't sit in vineyards that are that steep." Courbis told me that he wants to make wines "that aren't overly tannic or that take too long to come around. The vast majority of the world doesn't have the patience to wait a decade or longer for hard wines to soften and almost no restaurants are willing to age wines anymore."
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2007
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According to Laurent Courbis, "the reds in 2008 are very delicate while the white wines tend to be very strong, with the material to hold up well in the cellar." When I tasted here in mid-November Courbis told me that he hadn't decided whether to bottle the 2008 Saint-Joseph Les Royes or blend it down to the regular bottling but was leaning toward making a single Saint-Joseph from this vintage. He is fairly sure that he will bottle the usual line-up of Cornas bottlings, though. "The best vineyards in Cornas did pretty well in 2008," he said, adding that "they never really make delicate wines, regardless of the vintage. Water can't sit in vineyards that are that steep." Courbis told me that he wants to make wines "that aren't overly tannic or that take too long to come around. The vast majority of the world doesn't have the patience to wait a decade or longer for hard wines to soften and almost no restaurants are willing to age wines anymore."
00
2007
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"Two thousand seven is a pretty vintage, which is a good thing," said Laurent Courbis. "You'll be able to drink the wines soon after release, which is good for restaurants and for the impatient, but they are also well-balanced and concentrated, which will allow them to age. " As for 2006, "it was an easy year. The wines are more concentrated than the 2004s and should easily outlive those wines. The tannins are gentle so they will be easy to enjoy young though. "
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2006
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"Two thousand seven is a pretty vintage, which is a good thing," said Laurent Courbis. "You'll be able to drink the wines soon after release, which is good for restaurants and for the impatient, but they are also well-balanced and concentrated, which will allow them to age. " As for 2006, "it was an easy year. The wines are more concentrated than the 2004s and should easily outlive those wines. The tannins are gentle so they will be easy to enjoy young though. "
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2006
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"The 2006 whites down here are fresher than the 2005s, unlike in Condrieu," Laurent Courbis told me. As for the 2005 reds, "they are massive, with as much capacity to age as anything we've seen. Give the Saint-Josephs at least ten years and Cornas much longer. It would be a huge mistake to drink or judge them early, but I know that people will do just that."
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2005
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"The 2006 whites down here are fresher than the 2005s, unlike in Condrieu," Laurent Courbis told me. As for the 2005 reds, "they are massive, with as much capacity to age as anything we've seen. Give the Saint-Josephs at least ten years and Cornas much longer. It would be a huge mistake to drink or judge them early, but I know that people will do just that."
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2005
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The Courbis brothers' wines are decidedly in the modern camp, with fresh, fruit-driven personalities, polished tannins and sometimes pronounced oakiness. They are also loaded with sweet fruit and usually drink well soon after release. The vineyard holdings here are enviable, among the best in Cornas, including some nearly century-old vines in Sabarotte, widely regarded as one of the finest sites in the appellation. I tasted with Laurent Courbis, who offered the opinion that "2004 is not the richest vintage but the wines are wonderfully fresh and pure," while the 2005s "are superb, with incredible concentration as well as balance. "He concluded:"I am very happy with both of them. "(Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include V. O. S. Selections, New York, NY; Carolina Wine Co. , Norwood, MA; and Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA)
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2004
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The Courbis brothers' wines are decidedly in the modern camp, with fresh, fruit-driven personalities, polished tannins and sometimes pronounced oakiness. They are also loaded with sweet fruit and usually drink well soon after release. The vineyard holdings here are enviable, among the best in Cornas, including some nearly century-old vines in Sabarotte, widely regarded as one of the finest sites in the appellation. I tasted with Laurent Courbis, who offered the opinion that "2004 is not the richest vintage but the wines are wonderfully fresh and pure," while the 2005s "are superb, with incredible concentration as well as balance. "He concluded:"I am very happy with both of them. "(Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include V. O. S. Selections, New York, NY; Carolina Wine Co. , Norwood, MA; and Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA)
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2004
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Laurent Courbis has produced two sets of sweet, fruit-driven wines marked by lush texture and sexy oak spices.The gentle structure and exuberant fruit of the Courbis wines allow them to be enjoyed in their youth, but they possess the concentration and balance to develop positively in the cellar.I found the fresh 2003 single-vineyard bottlings particularly successful, especially in light of vintage conditions.(Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; Vintage Wines LLC, Des Plaines, IL; and Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA)
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2003
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Laurent Courbis has produced two sets of sweet, fruit-driven wines marked by lush texture and sexy oak spices.The gentle structure and exuberant fruit of the Courbis wines allow them to be enjoyed in their youth, but they possess the concentration and balance to develop positively in the cellar.I found the fresh 2003 single-vineyard bottlings particularly successful, especially in light of vintage conditions.(Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; Vintage Wines LLC, Des Plaines, IL; and Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA)
00
2003
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Dominique Courbis describes his 2003s as low-acid wines (he acidified only the basic Saint-Joseph bottling) "that are charming and suave but will last a long time. "He harvested entirely during the last week of August, bringing in very ripe fruit with 13%-13. 5% potential alcohol in Saint-Joseph and 14%-14. 5% alcohol in Cornas. Due to the strength of the material, he used a bit more new oak than usual. The 2003s had been assembled about two weeks prior to my visit. In recent years, Courbis has become one of the top sources of Saint-Joseph and Cornas. Even the 2002s here manage to avoid the raw character that bothered me in some of these wines in the '90s. And vintage 2003 has yielded the fleshiest and best set of wines yet from this producer. Incidentally, Courbis purchased some prime old Cornas vines in the lieu-dit Sabarotte from Noel Verset following the 2003 vintage. (Represented by Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; Vintage Wines LLC, Des Plaines, IL; and Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA)
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2002
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Dominique Courbis describes his 2003s as low-acid wines (he acidified only the basic Saint-Joseph bottling) "that are charming and suave but will last a long time. "He harvested entirely during the last week of August, bringing in very ripe fruit with 13%-13. 5% potential alcohol in Saint-Joseph and 14%-14. 5% alcohol in Cornas. Due to the strength of the material, he used a bit more new oak than usual. The 2003s had been assembled about two weeks prior to my visit. In recent years, Courbis has become one of the top sources of Saint-Joseph and Cornas. Even the 2002s here manage to avoid the raw character that bothered me in some of these wines in the '90s. And vintage 2003 has yielded the fleshiest and best set of wines yet from this producer. Incidentally, Courbis purchased some prime old Cornas vines in the lieu-dit Sabarotte from Noel Verset following the 2003 vintage. (Represented by Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Lake Success, NY; Vintage Wines LLC, Des Plaines, IL; and Adventures in Wine, Daly City, CA)
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2001
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Also recommended: 2000 Saint-Joseph Les Royes, 2001 Saint-Joseph.
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2000
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Also recommended: 2000 Saint-Joseph Les Royes, 2001 Saint-Joseph.
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2000
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1999
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1999
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Nineteen ninety-nine, according to Dominique Courbis, is not far removed from '98 in style, but the crop level in Saint-Joseph was nearly twice as high and the tannins are silkier. (Represented by Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include Associated Wine Distributors, New York, NY; Vintage Wines, Ltd., Des Plaines, IL; and Hartley & Parker, Stratford, CT)
00
1998
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Nineteen ninety-nine, according to Dominique Courbis, is not far removed from '98 in style, but the crop level in Saint-Joseph was nearly twice as high and the tannins are silkier. (Represented by Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include Associated Wine Distributors, New York, NY; Vintage Wines, Ltd., Des Plaines, IL; and Hartley & Parker, Stratford, CT)
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1998
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Brothers Laurent and Dominique Courbis own 20 hectares of vines in Saint-Joseph, 16 of which are planted to syrah. They also own four hectares in Cornas, from which they make three different cuvees. The domain's reds, made from destemmed fruit, are fermented in medium-sized temperature-controlled concrete and stainless steel tanks. Total cuvaison can last from 15 to as long as 30 days according to the parcel and the vintage (1998 got a good long maceration, said Laurent), including a bit of pre-fermentation cold maceration and a lot of post-fermentation pigeage and remontage. The top wines here go through their malolactic fermentations and are aged in barriques. Laurent Courbis considers 1998 the best vintage for Cornas since 1991 and 1990. This is an excellent source. (Represented by Russell Herman/World Wine Source, Berkeley Heights, NJ; importers include Associated Wine Distributors, New York, NY; Vintage Wines, Ltd., Des Plaines, IL; and De Gustibus Wine Imports, Seattle, WA)
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