2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru
France
Musigny
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
00
2021
2027 - 2048
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This might be one of Chambolle-Musigny’s grandees, yet this address is witnessing subtle changes as it reflects upon its practices. Since winemaker Jean Lupatelli commenced his tenure in April 2021, there has been an unhesitating tweak of the formula, which was overdue. To that end, I wonder whether opening your account with such a traumatic season was something that Lupatelli rues. Or will it stand him in good stead for the future?
“Starting with a difficult vintage raises the pressure, and that forces you to reflect on what you are doing,” he replies and in a further exchange, he explains that one silver lining of a depleted vintage is that it facilitated the implementation of practices that would be logistically more difficult in a high volume vintage like 2022. Despite the obstacles, the smaller crop allowed him to ‘ease’ himself in. There are changes out in the vines… “Les Amoureuses is being replanted over the next 7-8 years due to the old age of the vines, Cordon pruning system and the amount of virus. So around half the vines have been pulled up, resulting in a small quantity this year [three barrels].”
Then, we broach the vintage in question and his tough ‘first day in the office’.
“I arrived mid-April during the drama of the spring frost. On my first day, they took away the burned candles in the vineyard. We lost around 50% of the volume due to the frost. After that, it was very stressful, especially for the chef de culture. Due to the high disease pressure, we lost small quantities every week, resulting in a small crop, around 40% of the normal production. The good surprise was for the whites. I expected two barrels, and we got four. We started picking on 22 September and harvested over six days. It was a small yield, so the logistics were not too hard, making the change to 10kg cagettes easier for the team. There wasn’t too much sorting as we did strict work in the vineyard so that bunches remained healthy. We have a good Willmes press, though it’s a bit old and hard to program. I had to do it manually as I wanted a soft pressing. The alcoholic fermentation was normal, though we have reorganised the reception, allowing us to work with whole clusters. We did a 20-day maceration. We did not do less pigeage, two to three maximum, working mainly with remontage. The aging was normal. The malo only started last spring, and we racked last summer except for the whites, where the malo finished just before the last harvest.”
Considering the growing season, Lupatelli should be proud of his achievements in 2021. Sure, the lack of sunlight and ripeness curtails potential. Yet, I sense newfound freshness and tension in the wines, not least in an exceptional Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and in the Musigny Vieilles Vignes. There is greater examination of sub-parcels in their dominant Musigny holdings, similar to Clos de Tart and Clos des Lambrays in years, for example, questioning the differences between the lieux-dits of Petit and Grand Musigny. That’s going to yield results in the future. Of course, quantities are down, and these wines are not cheap by a long chalk. Nevertheless, departing Comte de Vogüé, I cannot wait to taste these 2021s in bottle and look forward to the 2022s next year.
00
2023
2030 - 2070
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“It was a hot vintage with rain at the right moments, so the vines did not suffer as they had in 2022,” winemaker Jean Lupatelli tells me. He took over from François Millet in 2021 and has chartered a different course than his predecessor. “So, it was an easier season. We were surprised to see nature so generous. We were strict on green harvesting and in some parts, we took away half the crop. We have a larger vintage than usual with an average of 34 hl/ha. We started picking on September 6 whilst we had hot weather. An important factor is the phenolic ripeness, which I saw about three weeks before the picking and when we did the first pressing of the samples. The juice pigmented very easily and the pips and stems were ripe. This allowed me to be gentle on the extraction, mainly remontage instead of pigeage. You can see high amounts of polyphenols, but you can’t really taste that. The vinification was normal. We started working with whole clusters in 2021 and when you pressed, the last three or four grams of sugar were quite stressful [in terms of fermenting to dryness]. We have a new stainless steel winery which is helpful for that. Overall, I think 2023 is better than 2022 – I love the freshness we have in the wine.”
00
2022
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“The disease pressures, oïdium, was quite high; that was stressful,” winemaker Jean Lupatelli tells me. “We were happy to have a normal crop, around 35hL/ha. We did quite a strict green harvest, which we haven’t done for a long time. With Eric Bourgogne, [vineyard manager since 1996], we want to make sure we have six bunches on each vine to maintain more uniform quality. We started picking on August 29 with the younger vines and then broaching different plots depending on the ripeness, finishing seven days later with the Chambolle Village. The malo was very early in the beginning of December, whereas before, it wasn’t until spring. We worked like the previous vintages with half whole clusters, and we changed the organization of the Musigny according to the origin of vine to make seven different cuvées, also for the Bonnes-Mares that had three different cuvées. The wines are matured in 30% to 40% new oak.”
To my surprise, during my early November tasting, Lupatelli informed me that he had already bottled the Chambolle-Musigny Village and Bonnes-Mares. The former, I can understand. But I raise a proverbial eyebrow at the decision to bottle the latter. A week earlier, a notable winemaker had admonished anyone who denies their wines a second winter in barrel. Tasting these two wines, especially juxtaposed against de Vogüé’s other cuvées, I can’t help but think that longer in barrel would have enhanced them. One can conjecture a case of a lack of space, given the plenitude of the 2023 vintage. Whatever the reason, my scores reflect my reservation, which may prove my doubts unfounded. The quality of the inchoate Chambolle Premier Cru and Les Amoureuses, both gestating in barrel, highlighted their differences and testified to Lupatelli’s positive changes since he replaced François Millet. Readers should note that the only reason I cannot score the Musigny Vieilles Vignes is because the final cuvée had not been made. I would rather revisit the wine once in bottle, even though the component parts bode well.
00
2020
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2019
2027 - 2048
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2018
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2018
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Pulling up in the courtyard at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé amidst heavy drizzle, I was glad to get down into the dry cellars with winemaker François Millet to taste through the 2018s from barrel and 2017s in bottle. First I asked him about the 2018 vintage. "We had some good rain in spring and then after, the rain was below normal. It was dry, but there was not much stress in the vines because of the prior rain. We picked on 30 August [the same day as Clos de Tart, although not the earliest on record as the 2003 was picked from 23 August]. Climatically speaking, 2003 was a violet heatwave, whereas 2018 was warm but mostly dry and so it had a different effect on the vines. It was the same type of heat as in 1976 however that arrived much earlier, in the springtime. There was good sanitary conditions in the vineyard with nice bunches and good average yields around 30hL/ha, a bit less than in 2017, but comfortable for the domaine. It was not easy for those that had several places to pick in different areas: our advantage is that we are focused on just one area. We could pick everything at the same time and anyway, there was nothing to wait for. Picking was over in one week. There was intentionally no punch downs except for Bonnes-Mares, which needed it. We [already] had concentration because of the drought and the high ripeness of skins, not overripe, but I speak in terms of phenolic levels. The colour comes from infusion and pumpovers. It was important to be even more cautious this year because you could easily make "monsters" and then everything would look identical in the cellar. All the wines in 2018 are aged with 30% new oak. We used the cellar's air-conditioning to postpone the malolactic in spring because the barrels at the end of September were still at 18°C, so the malo risked beginning right after the alcoholic fermentation. The malo helps preserve the freshness and clarity in the wines, which was important in 2018 as it is not a mineral-driven vintage. The wines needed childhood. Malo is like puberty."
00
2017
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2017
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2017
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Pulling up in the courtyard at Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé amidst heavy drizzle, I was glad to get down into the dry cellars with winemaker François Millet to taste through the 2018s from barrel and 2017s in bottle. First I asked him about the 2018 vintage. "We had some good rain in spring and then after, the rain was below normal. It was dry, but there was not much stress in the vines because of the prior rain. We picked on 30 August [the same day as Clos de Tart, although not the earliest on record as the 2003 was picked from 23 August]. Climatically speaking, 2003 was a violet heatwave, whereas 2018 was warm but mostly dry and so it had a different effect on the vines. It was the same type of heat as in 1976 however that arrived much earlier, in the springtime. There was good sanitary conditions in the vineyard with nice bunches and good average yields around 30hL/ha, a bit less than in 2017, but comfortable for the domaine. It was not easy for those that had several places to pick in different areas: our advantage is that we are focused on just one area. We could pick everything at the same time and anyway, there was nothing to wait for. Picking was over in one week. There was intentionally no punch downs except for Bonnes-Mares, which needed it. We [already] had concentration because of the drought and the high ripeness of skins, not overripe, but I speak in terms of phenolic levels. The colour comes from infusion and pumpovers. It was important to be even more cautious this year because you could easily make "monsters" and then everything would look identical in the cellar. All the wines in 2018 are aged with 30% new oak. We used the cellar's air-conditioning to postpone the malolactic in spring because the barrels at the end of September were still at 18°C, so the malo risked beginning right after the alcoholic fermentation. The malo helps preserve the freshness and clarity in the wines, which was important in 2018 as it is not a mineral-driven vintage. The wines needed childhood. Malo is like puberty."
00
2017
2023 - 2045
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Winemaker François Millet guided me through de Vogüé’s wines as usual. It is a small range, so you can forget that they represent the lion’s share of these prestigious vineyards, not least Musigny. Millet is a quietly spoken man, always with his allegorical perspective on the previous growing season. (As an aside, when he describes the growing season in terms of an imaginary land of pools and waterfalls, the cartoon “Adventure Time” always pops into my head.)
“The vintage is larger than 2016,” he explained as we settled ourselves in the capacious cellar. “We almost suffered frost on the same day as last year. But it was less cold and the village was more prepared, burning some straw to create cloud cover. May was very warm. We had a heat wave that made the flowering very early, predicating an early vintage. The summer was dry but correct with no rot or fungus. We picked on September 2, a little earlier than other growers, but I have no regrets about that. It is important to keep the freshness and avoid overripeness. I did no punching down because the colour came easily. I am almost embarrassed by the colour of the Bonnes-Mares. I was able to postpone the malolactic fermentation in the spring so that it finished in June and July, as the lees were very good. This is important to preserve freshness, especially for that kind of vintage. The other important point is the yield. We did a green harvest and this was one of the keys of the vintage. We had a lot of juice in the berries, a skin-to-berry ratio that was quite low, which gave volume to the vintage. Some did some saignée but I am not keen on that. I prefer to just control the yields. There is no chaptalisation and alcohol levels are around 13.0° natural.”
This was a fine set of 2017s from de Vogüé. I often find the Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru to be the dark horse of the lineup, and the growing season illuminated the difference between it and the Chambolle Village. Both the Chambolle Les Amoureuses and Bonnes-Mares are classy and remind me of the 2014s, but a little fuller in style. I put them in level pegging at the moment, the Musigny asserting its superiority. Of course, for the last three vintages it has been joined by its white sibling, the Musigny Vieilles Vignes Blanc. Millet told me that he does not treat it like a normal Chardonnay, but exactly the same as the red Musigny. There is always something very aromatic and almost Rhône-like on the nose, with fine weight and density on the palate that distinguishes it from other Côte de Nuits whites.
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2016
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2016
2024 - 2050
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2016
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“When I woke up on the morning of the frost, the cars were totally white,” said winemaker François Millet. “The Combe [d'Ambin] is quite large and it connects to the top of the plateaus. The frost fried nearly all of the primary buds and we had to wait three weeks for the secondary buds to begin. We lost 70% of our production overall [the harvest here was even smaller than in 2003, 1998 and 1991], although the ripeness gap was mostly erased during the warm summer.” Luckily, the estate did not lose further production to mildew or oidium. “It was more downslope where people struggled with mildew,” noted Millet. The estate began harvesting on September 24, with potential alcohol around 13%, and Millet destemmed all of the fruit. He only punched down the Bonnes-Mares, noting that with the half-filled tanks in 2016 it was necessary to be very careful about extraction.
As to the style of the wines, Millet describes 2016 as “a very particular vintage due to getting most of our fruit from the secondary buds. This is the source of the wines’ freshness. We have surprising red fruit character for a very ripe year—jellied, confectionary fruits. They remind me of le joli moi de mai: not too hot, not too cold and very floral.” The malos mostly finished in July and August and the wines have pHs around 3.5, but with healthy levels of acidity. “They will age well on their mineral energy,” said Millet.
Millet is a big fan of 2015. “The wines have everything: concentration, body and structure but also freshness and elegance. It will be a long-term vintage.” The drought, Millet claims, was ultimately an advantage thanks to the well-timed August rain. “We were able to keep good tartaric acidity even if the malic was burned off. Two thousand fifteen was more about drought than extended heat; if we had had a long heat wave we would have lost the tartaric acidity.” But it was also important not to pick too late and to delay the malos, he added. He chilled the cellar to about 40 degrees F. and the malos finished in July.
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2015
2025 - 2050
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2015
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“When I woke up on the morning of the frost, the cars were totally white,” said winemaker François Millet. “The Combe [d'Ambin] is quite large and it connects to the top of the plateaus. The frost fried nearly all of the primary buds and we had to wait three weeks for the secondary buds to begin. We lost 70% of our production overall [the harvest here was even smaller than in 2003, 1998 and 1991], although the ripeness gap was mostly erased during the warm summer.” Luckily, the estate did not lose further production to mildew or oidium. “It was more downslope where people struggled with mildew,” noted Millet. The estate began harvesting on September 24, with potential alcohol around 13%, and Millet destemmed all of the fruit. He only punched down the Bonnes-Mares, noting that with the half-filled tanks in 2016 it was necessary to be very careful about extraction.
As to the style of the wines, Millet describes 2016 as “a very particular vintage due to getting most of our fruit from the secondary buds. This is the source of the wines’ freshness. We have surprising red fruit character for a very ripe year—jellied, confectionary fruits. They remind me of le joli moi de mai: not too hot, not too cold and very floral.” The malos mostly finished in July and August and the wines have pHs around 3.5, but with healthy levels of acidity. “They will age well on their mineral energy,” said Millet.
Millet is a big fan of 2015. “The wines have everything: concentration, body and structure but also freshness and elegance. It will be a long-term vintage.” The drought, Millet claims, was ultimately an advantage thanks to the well-timed August rain. “We were able to keep good tartaric acidity even if the malic was burned off. Two thousand fifteen was more about drought than extended heat; if we had had a long heat wave we would have lost the tartaric acidity.” But it was also important not to pick too late and to delay the malos, he added. He chilled the cellar to about 40 degrees F. and the malos finished in July.
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2015
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Winemaker François Millet finds a lot of tension in the young 2015s but on the damp day I tasted these wines in November they stood out more for their density, flamboyant power and almost chocolatey ripeness. The estate harvested between September 3 and 7 under what Millet described as “perfect, cool conditions.” He went on: “Two thousand fifteen was a drought year but not a heat-wave growing season. The drought was responsible for the concentration of the wines. But the pHs are not above 3.4, which explains the vintage’s combination of freshness and power.” Millet, who has a very wide vocabulary to describe the nature of the fruit produced every year, described 2015 as “a lot of black fruits, sorbet fruits, very ripe but fresh."
Yields were just 20 to 25 hectoliters per hectare, as “not a lot of juice came out of the press.” Alcohol levels, said Millet, are “a good 13%,” owing to the severe drought conditions in July followed by “just enough rain in August.” The wines were racked in July following the malos and had been racked a second time shortly before my vintage “to remove the lees.”
00
2014
2025 - 2038
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2014
2026 - 2039
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François Millet described the fruit character of the young ‘14s as “jellied fruits: seductive and fresh,” adding that the wines “don’t need to talk loud to tell the truth” He went on: “The fruit in 2014 is early springtime, while in 2015 it’s summer on the deck” l love these wines for their aromatic precision Finished alcohol levels do not exceed 125% as Millet chaptalized with a very light hand
00
2014
2026 - 2039
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François Millet described the fruit character of the young ‘14s as “jellied fruits: seductive and fresh,” adding that the wines “don’t need to talk loud to tell the truth.” He went on: “The fruit in 2014 is early springtime, while in 2015 it’s summer on the deck.” l love these wines for their aromatic precision. Finished alcohol levels do not exceed 12.5% as Millet chaptalized with a very light hand.
00
2014
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After experiencing summer in spring and a very early flowering, we anticipated an August harvest, said François Millet."But the rainy, mild, uninteresting summer slowed down the vegetation. Early September brought better weather but we had to navigate through showers." The estate harvested between September 13 and 20 with potential alcohol levels of 12% or 12. 1% but Millet did very little chaptalization and the finished wines will not exceed 12. 5%."I do not agree that a Burgundy needs to have 13% alcohol to have longevity," he pointed out."The 2014 vintage is like springtime, and a full degree of added sugar would have warmed the year."
Two thousand fourteen, he summarized, "is spectacular because it's not spectacular. It's a serene vintage but not a short-term vintage. It's both serious and romantic, with a nice balance of sweetness and freshness, but it doesn't have the enormous minerality of 2013."
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2013
2022 - 2035
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2013
2027 - 2045
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Winemaker François Millet described the estate's 2013s as "very direct and almost frighteningly pure, with outstanding minerality." Wide diurnal variation during the weeks leading up to the harvest helped to give these wines color and structure, and the stems were a bit riper than those in 2014.
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2013
2025 - 2042
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François Millet told me that following "a bad September, with storms from the south," he picked late in 2013, bringing in his fruit between October 5 and 13 with about 12% potential alcohol, then chaptalizing lightly (none of the finished wines will reach 13%). The ripeness of the skins gave intense color, black fruits and spices, he went on. "I like the contrast between freshness and minerality." The wines here have very low pHs but Millet described the acidity as "fresh rather than tart. The vintage has an element of grace." Although Millet destems his fruit, he vinifies with a high percentage of uncrushed berries. The wines had been racked to air in August following the late malolactic fermentations, which Millet credited for preserving freshness in the wines, then racked again to remove the lees a few days before my visit.
00
2012
2028 - 2050
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The 2012s shows "candied" fruit in the front but it's a very deep vintage, said winemaker François Millet in November. "The wines are fresh and diplomatic." Millet did no chaptalization in 2012 and carried out very gentle extraction, eschewing punchdowns for his crus. The results are splendid.
00
2012
2022 - 2037
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Longtime Winemaker François Millet is never at loss for words. The growing season at de Vogüé was pretty much the same as it was everywhere. A poor flowering, oidium, mildew and hail in July were all part of the mix. Heat spikes at the end of July caused sunburn in some spots. Sunshine and low humidity characterized the end of the year. The harvest started on September 22 and lasted a week, which is the norm here. The de Vogüé wines are characterized by the resonance, texture and depth, all qualities the 2012s have in spades.
00
2012
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Two thousand twelve is a vintage of candied fruits, said winemaker Francois Millet. "There's a lovely balance of acidity and sweetness, along with good minerality. And due to the sweetness of fruit, there's no austerity in 2012." The harvest that began on September 22 followed two weeks of fine weather and potential alcohols were around 13%, with no chaptalization required, according to Millet. Millet told me he did not do any pigeage for the premier cru, the Amoureuses or the Musigny, as that technique "would have made monsters." (A Peter Vezan selection; imported by North Berkeley Imports, www.northberkeleyimports.com; Ideal Wine & Spirits, www.idealwine.us; H2Vino, www.h2vino.com)
00
2011
2019 - 2031
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De Vogüé's 2011s are fabulous. Winemaker François Millet describes 2011 as a year in which the seasons were inverted, with summertime in the spring and fall in the summer. The harvest started on August 31, normal for the year, but obviously quite early by historical standards. As was the case at a few estates, my sense is that the de Vogüé 2011s are starting to close down a bit. Overall, though, this is an impressive set of wines. The 2011s will drink better earlier than the 2010s, which is great news for fans of the domaine.
00
2011
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2011
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Winemaker Francois Millet, who described 2011 as a very stressful year, told me that the wines have gained in breadth of flavor in barrel since late summer and now show a broader range of aromas than they did at the outset."The vintage is characterized by jellied fruits, with minerality and the sweet open flowers of the afternoon," he said in November.Potential alcohol levels were around 12% and Millet said he made a choice to chaptalize lightly:the finished wines won't be higher than 12.5%.But skin ripeness was good, he added.Millet finds "a lot of tangerine and white citrus notes" in the wines, which he says add to their natural freshness."The 2011s would have been too sweet without acidity and their cool core of limestone."Said Millet:"Two thousand ten is great if you like minerality, freshness and the truth.Two thousand eleven is a message of peace."Average yields were similar in both vintages, at around 20 hectoliters per hectare. (Dreyfus-Ashby, www.dreyfusashby.com; Ideal Wines & Spirits, www.idealwine.us; Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, www.chamberswines.com; The Wine Company, www.thewinecompany.net)
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2010
2023 - 2050
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2010
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2010
2025 - 2045
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Long-time oenologist François Millet was away during my visit to Burgundy, so I can't relay his always visually evocative thoughts on recent vintages. At the end of the day, though, these wines need no words; they speak for themselves, and then some. Commercial director Jean-Luc Pépin was kind enough to show me all of the 2010s and 2009s (from bottle), including the seldom seen Bourgogne Blanc. I will report on the 2009s in my April article.
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2010
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After a bad spring, a difficult summer, and a drier, cool September, chilly mornings during the harvest "preserved the momentum of the vintage," said winemaker Francois Millet. "The conditions allowed the wines to keep the identity of the vintage, its freshness, clarity and minerality." He went on: "It's a very red fruit vintage; like fruit you just pick and eat. And it's certainly a great vintage for discovering Chambolle-Musigny, as there's nothing aggressive or hard about the 2010s." The harvest here began on September 25, which Millet described as late, and the estate-wide yield was just 20 hectoliters per hectare. Only the first two wines I tasted had been racked as of early November, as the slow but stress-free malos only ended in September. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)
00
2009
2023 - 2045
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2009
2024 - 2039
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2009
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2009
2019 - 2039
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A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist François Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet's visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogüé's 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest.
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2009
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Enologist Francois Millet describes 2009 as "a creamy vintage in terms of the way it presents the fruit, but without any heaviness. The summer was sunny but did not have any heat waves." In terms of the volume and texture of the wines, "2009 is like a lake while 2008 is a mountain river. Two thousand nine is a very approachable vintage. It has a serenity that gives the impression of an easy vintage, but it also has a reserve." Alcohol levels are in the 13.1% to 13.7% range, with no chaptalization done. "But you smell the creaminess of the wines, not their alcohol," he said. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)
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2008
2022 - 2026
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2008
2023 - 2048
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A brilliant career as a wine writer awaits long-time oenologist François Millet should he ever tire of making wine. Millet's visual descriptions of vintages and wines are among the most colorful I have ever encountered. The truth is that these wines need no words at all; the quality of what is in the glass speaks for itself far more eloquently than words ever could. De Vogüé's 2009s are remarkable for their textural richness, depth and pure breed. In 2009 Millet started picking on September 9 in order to keep as much as freshness as possible. The fruit was 100% destemmed. New oak ranged from 15% for the Chambolle villages to 35-40% for the Bonnes Mares and Musigny Vieilles Vignes. The malos were on the slow side and for the most part did not begin until April 2010. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Chambolle-Musigny and Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru and as they were bottled just prior to my visit. I did have a chance to taste most of the 2008s. In many ways the 2008s offer better balance than the 2009s because the vintage characteristics play off the house style of textural richness, resulting in marvelous, totally complete wines. In 2008 the harvest began on September 27, quite a bit later than in 2009. A cool growing season was saved by perfect conditions that began on September 13 and continued through to the end of the harvest.
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2008
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2008
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"I'm not convinced that our terroirs need so much phenolic ripeness," said enologist Francois Millet, noting that 2008 brought normal skin ripeness and "true maturity." Potential alcohols were in the healthy 12.5% to 13% range and no chaptalization was done, according to Millet. As ambient temperatures were cool at the time of the harvest, the fermentations took a full week to start and then proceeded slowly. "This gave enough roundness to the wines to balance their freshness," said Millet. "Although the vintage is high in acidity and low in pH you don't really feel the acidity. There's a syrup fruit character in 2008, and it's difficult to get fruit character that's sweeter than syrup." In comparison, he added, the fruit in 2007 is more candied, and the wines from the earlier vintage are "direct, but also refined." The 2008s show the "flowers of afternoon," which are much sweeter, while the 2007s display the flowers of morning, adds Millet. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)
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2007
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"I'm not convinced that our terroirs need so much phenolic ripeness," said enologist Francois Millet, noting that 2008 brought normal skin ripeness and "true maturity." Potential alcohols were in the healthy 12.5% to 13% range and no chaptalization was done, according to Millet. As ambient temperatures were cool at the time of the harvest, the fermentations took a full week to start and then proceeded slowly. "This gave enough roundness to the wines to balance their freshness," said Millet. "Although the vintage is high in acidity and low in pH you don't really feel the acidity. There's a syrup fruit character in 2008, and it's difficult to get fruit character that's sweeter than syrup." In comparison, he added, the fruit in 2007 is more candied, and the wines from the earlier vintage are "direct, but also refined." The 2008s show the "flowers of afternoon," which are much sweeter, while the 2007s display the flowers of morning, adds Millet. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)
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2007
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"The 2007s are in a very fresh style," said enologist Francois Millet. "We always have cherry and raspberry fruit but in 2007 there's also a citrus note. The wines are candied and candid-very direct." The domain produced just 20 to 25 hectoliters depending on the site, as there was more elimination of rotten grapes in 2007 than in 2006. But Millet was confident about the quality of the sorting practiced here. "In 2007 we had more juice in the grapes than in 2006, but riper skins as well. If 2007 is confiserie, then 2006 is jellied fruits-very stylish and with a deeply seductive character." The 2007s had been racked in June and July following the malos and were in the process of being racked for the second time in early November. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)
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2006
2024 - 2034
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2006
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"The 2007s are in a very fresh style," said enologist Francois Millet. "We always have cherry and raspberry fruit but in 2007 there's also a citrus note. The wines are candied and candid-very direct." The domain produced just 20 to 25 hectoliters depending on the site, as there was more elimination of rotten grapes in 2007 than in 2006. But Millet was confident about the quality of the sorting practiced here. "In 2007 we had more juice in the grapes than in 2006, but riper skins as well. If 2007 is confiserie, then 2006 is jellied fruits-very stylish and with a deeply seductive character." The 2007s had been racked in June and July following the malos and were in the process of being racked for the second time in early November. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, St. Paul, MN)
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2006
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September of 2006 was "electric, with windy, agitated weather," said enologist Francois Millet, "and yet the wines are serene. They are deeply seductive, but it's not a superficial seductiveness. You feel comfortable with this vintage, like with a good friend. The wines have a jellied fruit quality, with fresh acidity and very good energy. With 2005, in contrast, it's more of a power struggle. There's a sense of contained power in the 2005s, but does the terroir speak as clearly in these wines as in the '06s?" Millet had just racked the 2006s for the second time when I stopped by to taste. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN)
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2005
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September of 2006 was "electric, with windy, agitated weather," said enologist Francois Millet, "and yet the wines are serene. They are deeply seductive, but it's not a superficial seductiveness. You feel comfortable with this vintage, like with a good friend. The wines have a jellied fruit quality, with fresh acidity and very good energy. With 2005, in contrast, it's more of a power struggle. There's a sense of contained power in the 2005s, but does the terroir speak as clearly in these wines as in the '06s?" Millet had just racked the 2006s for the second time when I stopped by to taste. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN)
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2005
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"The growing season offered very good but dry conditions," noted enologist Francois Millet. "There was high skin ripeness and the drought decreased the amount of juice. In fact, we had even less juice than in 2003, but the fruit retained acidity because the summer was much less hot. The acidity gives a sorbet character to the fruit. It's a very floral vintage. There's a lot of fruit but the vintage is based on structure. It's a bit of a prude as a vintage: the wines are essentially serious." Millet destems but doesn't crush the grapes. And he doesn't like to vinify with whole clusters because he's afraid of "standardizing the wines." (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
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2004
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"The growing season offered very good but dry conditions," noted enologist Francois Millet. "There was high skin ripeness and the drought decreased the amount of juice. In fact, we had even less juice than in 2003, but the fruit retained acidity because the summer was much less hot. The acidity gives a sorbet character to the fruit. It's a very floral vintage. There's a lot of fruit but the vintage is based on structure. It's a bit of a prude as a vintage: the wines are essentially serious." Millet destems but doesn't crush the grapes. And he doesn't like to vinify with whole clusters because he's afraid of "standardizing the wines." (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
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2004
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"The coulis-like fruit of 2004 is based on the contrast between cold and heat, between acidity and fruit," said enologist Francois Millet. "We had a cold, rainy, problematic August, then a good September to give us ripeness. The only advantage of August was to preserve acidity, which gives the wine spine, purity, precision. But it's really more minerality than acidity. "Millet told me that the estate tossed out the grapes that had been dried out by the August 23 hail storm in the vineyard rather than in the winery, and even eliminated some berries within bunches. Due to crop thinning in August and the hail storm, yields for most of the estate's 2004s were between 20 and 25 hectoliters per hectare. I asked Millet to compare the young 2004s to the 2001s. "In 2004, we have a minerally acidity, while in 2001 the acid is opposite the fruit; it competes with the fruit. The 2001s are more cerebral, but the 2004s are more transparent:you can see the gravel in the riverbed. "(Dreyfus-Ashby & Co. , New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
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2003
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"The coulis-like fruit of 2004 is based on the contrast between cold and heat, between acidity and fruit," said enologist Francois Millet. "We had a cold, rainy, problematic August, then a good September to give us ripeness. The only advantage of August was to preserve acidity, which gives the wine spine, purity, precision. But it's really more minerality than acidity. "Millet told me that the estate tossed out the grapes that had been dried out by the August 23 hail storm in the vineyard rather than in the winery, and even eliminated some berries within bunches. Due to crop thinning in August and the hail storm, yields for most of the estate's 2004s were between 20 and 25 hectoliters per hectare. I asked Millet to compare the young 2004s to the 2001s. "In 2004, we have a minerally acidity, while in 2001 the acid is opposite the fruit; it competes with the fruit. The 2001s are more cerebral, but the 2004s are more transparent:you can see the gravel in the riverbed. "(Dreyfus-Ashby & Co. , New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
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2003
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I was unable to taste this estate's 2003s, as the wines had been recently bottled and enologist Francois Millet does not show his wines in the months following the mise.(Musigny was the notable exception; it was still aging in barrel and was slated to be bottled in early December.)Millet noted that he also bottled the '89s early, "to preserve fruit, body and purity."In fact, the malos in 2003 finished in November of that year, so the wines spent almost their normal post-malo term on the lees.The 2002s here are spectacular; if the bottling were an Olympic event, Millet might have rated a perfect 10.(Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
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2002
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I was unable to taste this estate's 2003s, as the wines had been recently bottled and enologist Francois Millet does not show his wines in the months following the mise.(Musigny was the notable exception; it was still aging in barrel and was slated to be bottled in early December.)Millet noted that he also bottled the '89s early, "to preserve fruit, body and purity."In fact, the malos in 2003 finished in November of that year, so the wines spent almost their normal post-malo term on the lees.The 2002s here are spectacular; if the bottling were an Olympic event, Millet might have rated a perfect 10.(Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
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2002
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Enologist Francois Millet, who has an impressively broad vocabulary for describing the nature of the fruit in each new Burgundy vintage, characterizes his young 2002s as having "jelly fruits, the liquid part of the jam.This gives sweetness but not heaviness, which offers a very good combination with the vintage's very fresh acidity.It's a vintage of happiness, where all the elements go together well."The estate carried out a less severe green harvest in July than they did with the copious 2000 vintage.In 2001, too, notes Millet, "we needed even more than usual to do a green harvest, in order to get phenolic ripeness and balanced acidity.This is a rational, more Cartesian vintage that doesn't have any fantasy," he concludes. Today, the acids are going against the current of the wines."The 2002s had been racked for the second time in October.(Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
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2001
2017 - 2031
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00
2001
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Enologist Francois Millet, who has an impressively broad vocabulary for describing the nature of the fruit in each new Burgundy vintage, characterizes his young 2002s as having "jelly fruits, the liquid part of the jam.This gives sweetness but not heaviness, which offers a very good combination with the vintage's very fresh acidity.It's a vintage of happiness, where all the elements go together well."The estate carried out a less severe green harvest in July than they did with the copious 2000 vintage.In 2001, too, notes Millet, "we needed even more than usual to do a green harvest, in order to get phenolic ripeness and balanced acidity.This is a rational, more Cartesian vintage that doesn't have any fantasy," he concludes. Today, the acids are going against the current of the wines."The 2002s had been racked for the second time in October.(Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
2001
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Enologist Francois Millet describes 2001 as a vintage with two faces: there is an enticing crushed fruit character to 2001," he told me in November, "but the slight shadow over the vintage is its bright natural acidity, which is what gives the fruit energy. This is the serious side of the vintage. The fresh acids are more important than the wines' tannic structures in 2001." According to Millet, the estate-wide yield was 35 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, the same as in '99 but higher than in '00. It was necessary to drop virtually half of the potential crop during a green harvest to arrive at this moderate production level. (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
2000
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Enologist Francois Millet describes 2001 as a vintage with two faces: there is an enticing crushed fruit character to 2001," he told me in November, "but the slight shadow over the vintage is its bright natural acidity, which is what gives the fruit energy. This is the serious side of the vintage. The fresh acids are more important than the wines' tannic structures in 2001." According to Millet, the estate-wide yield was 35 hectoliters per hectare in 2001, the same as in '99 but higher than in '00. It was necessary to drop virtually half of the potential crop during a green harvest to arrive at this moderate production level. (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
2000
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Enologist Francois Millet likes the way the 2000s offer "elegance and sensuality, with no lack of intensity or strength." Yields here were kept to a low 30 hectoliters per hectare through a strict green harvest, and grape sugars were impressively high (in the 13%+ range), requiring no chaptalization. Millet vinified to get soft, sensual wines rather than going for big extraction, and in fact the young 2000s are scented, approachable wines with enough supporting spine for medium-term aging. The extroverted '99s, bottled between February and May of 2001, show sweet but tangy fruit and great verve. (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1999
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00
1999
2018 - 2034
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The 20th century went out with a bang for red Burgundy lovers, with the 1999 vintage producing copious quantities of excellent to outstanding wine.
From the outset, the 1999 red Burgundies offered a rare combination of charm and power. Most of the better wines were balanced and alluring from the start, but they are evolving very slowly and still have plenty of life ahead of them. While many of the ‘99s I sampled with the producers this winter have gone through sullen stages in bottle, most of them have launched into their periods of peak drinkability. If you own these wines – and especially if you chose wisely at the outset – you will be amply rewarded.
00
1999
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Enologist Francois Millet likes the way the 2000s offer "elegance and sensuality, with no lack of intensity or strength." Yields here were kept to a low 30 hectoliters per hectare through a strict green harvest, and grape sugars were impressively high (in the 13%+ range), requiring no chaptalization. Millet vinified to get soft, sensual wines rather than going for big extraction, and in fact the young 2000s are scented, approachable wines with enough supporting spine for medium-term aging. The extroverted '99s, bottled between February and May of 2001, show sweet but tangy fruit and great verve. (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1999
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This estate did a drastic crop thinning in late July and early August, eliminating virtually half the fruit and ultimately reducing the vineyard yields to an average of 35 hectoliters per hectare. More important, the team was in a position to harvest during the good week of weather before it began raining again. Enologist Francois Millet was beginning to rack the wines for a second time in November, using a bicycle pump-a labor-intensive but relatively gentle way of carrying out this task. Millet describes the young '99s as exuberant, extroverted wines that nevertheless have depth and structure. "They've been approachable since the beginning and a pleasure to work with," he adds. "The fruit is like a coulis which gives a sweetness without heaviness. In comparison, the fruit in '98 is more crystallized, and even more vibrant." (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1998
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This estate did a drastic crop thinning in late July and early August, eliminating virtually half the fruit and ultimately reducing the vineyard yields to an average of 35 hectoliters per hectare. More important, the team was in a position to harvest during the good week of weather before it began raining again. Enologist Francois Millet was beginning to rack the wines for a second time in November, using a bicycle pump-a labor-intensive but relatively gentle way of carrying out this task. Millet describes the young '99s as exuberant, extroverted wines that nevertheless have depth and structure. "They've been approachable since the beginning and a pleasure to work with," he adds. "The fruit is like a coulis which gives a sweetness without heaviness. In comparison, the fruit in '98 is more crystallized, and even more vibrant." (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1998
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Enologist Francois Millet was in the process of racking the '98s for the second time in November. The wines blossomed nicely during the summer, he explained, but then started to close up again in September and needed "a breath of air." In addition, he explained, the '98s may be fined prior to bottling, and it would be risky to fine the wines if they still retained a substantial portion of their lees. Yields in '98 were in the infinitesimal 15 to 18 hectoliters-per-hectare range due to frost and sunburn, according to Millet. The estate eliminated affected berries in both August and September-"otherwise we would have picked fruit afflicted with rot." Millet, who normally describes vintages eloquently in terms of the nature of their fruit, summarized the powerful '98s succinctly: "The strength of this vintage lies in its structure." (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1997
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Enologist Francois Millet was in the process of racking the '98s for the second time in November. The wines blossomed nicely during the summer, he explained, but then started to close up again in September and needed "a breath of air." In addition, he explained, the '98s may be fined prior to bottling, and it would be risky to fine the wines if they still retained a substantial portion of their lees. Yields in '98 were in the infinitesimal 15 to 18 hectoliters-per-hectare range due to frost and sunburn, according to Millet. The estate eliminated affected berries in both August and September-"otherwise we would have picked fruit afflicted with rot." Millet, who normally describes vintages eloquently in terms of the nature of their fruit, summarized the powerful '98s succinctly: "The strength of this vintage lies in its structure." (Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1997
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Enologist Francois Millet describes this estate '97s as approachable, elegantly structured wines, with bright jammy fruit and a spicy character. They are exotic, he says, but in a positive way. Yields for the grand crus were in the tiny 20-to-25 hectoliters per hectare range, vs. 35 to 40 in the generous '96 vintage. Partly due to the low crop levels, grape sugars were the highest since he began here in the mid '80s, reaching 13%. Very little chaptalization was done, according to Millet, who was in the process of racking the wines for the second time when I visited in November. The domain '96s have turned out very well, but will require patience. (Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1996
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Enologist Francois Millet describes this estate '97s as approachable, elegantly structured wines, with bright jammy fruit and a spicy character. They are exotic, he says, but in a positive way. Yields for the grand crus were in the tiny 20-to-25 hectoliters per hectare range, vs. 35 to 40 in the generous '96 vintage. Partly due to the low crop levels, grape sugars were the highest since he began here in the mid '80s, reaching 13%. Very little chaptalization was done, according to Millet, who was in the process of racking the wines for the second time when I visited in November. The domain '96s have turned out very well, but will require patience. (Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; The Wine Company, Minneapolis, MN, Vintner Select, Cincinnati, OH)
00
1996
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Enologist Francois Millet was racking the '96s for the second time in November, and a couple wines were difficult to taste. (But the Bonnes-Mares was a stunner.) Millet describes the '96s as charming and sensual, but with a tendency to close up. The grapes were large but also had reasonably thick skins. 1995, in comparison, offers more structure and power, but also great fruit. I still wonder if the wines might be even more extraordinary with a bit less handling. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA)
00
1995
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Enologist Francois Millet was racking the '96s for the second time in November, and a couple wines were difficult to taste. (But the Bonnes-Mares was a stunner.) Millet describes the '96s as charming and sensual, but with a tendency to close up. The grapes were large but also had reasonably thick skins. 1995, in comparison, offers more structure and power, but also great fruit. I still wonder if the wines might be even more extraordinary with a bit less handling. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Barrique Wines, Chicago, IL; Esquin Imports, San Francisco, CA; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA)
00
1993
2023 - 2045
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1993
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
00
1990
2019 - 2025
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00
1989
2021 - 2028
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1985
2024 - 2038
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This was my first dinner at Asiate, the restaurant located in New York’s Mandarin Oriental Hotel. We were seated in a corner table that provided spectacular views of Central Park West as late afternoon melded into night. The tasting menu created by Chef Toni Robertson to match our wines was fantastic
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1979
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Wines like these are not meant to be consumed in silence and solemnity. They should be accompanied by the kind of noise and laughter that echoed through the never-ending corridors and annexes on this night.
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This wine was tasted at the Fourth Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in November 2011.
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