2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Village
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2017 - 2027
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This is the first time I tasted with Claude Dugat's son, Bertrand, who along with his sister, Laetitia, has taken over the family domaine. Longtime fans of this reference-point domaine will find quite a different style in the 2013s than has been the case in the past. Part of that is a broad move towards picking earlier and other global changes, including a transition from Cordon Royaut pruning to Guyot and less new oak in some of the wines. The 2013s were brought in beginning on September 29, which was early for the year. The wines were not chaptalized. All of that means the 2013s are sinewy and linear in style, with quite a bit less textural radiance than is the norm. It will be interesting to see if the 2013s flesh out in bottle, but my early impression is that some of these parcels may have been picked a touch early as I don't see full flavor and texture maturity across the board. Time will tell.
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2017 - 2023
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Bertrand Dugat compared the family's 2012s to its 2009s but although a number of the 2012s show very ripe aromas, I can't help but think that Bertrand's evolution to slightly earlier picking than his father Claude practiced has imbued the new set of wines with more energy than they might have had just a few years ago
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2014 - 2022
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Claude Dugat's 2012 are superb across the board. Dugat is quite and reserved, but with wines like this, well, they speak for themselves. Dugat gave the 2012s 15 days on the skins, with two punchdowns per day. The wines were racked in May 2013. These remain some of the deepest and most intense wines in Burgundy, but they are also much more polished than in the past. When Claude Dugat is on, the wines are absolutely stunning, which is certainly the case with the 2012s.
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As Dugat's vineyard work gives him ripe fruit early, he tends to do best in cooler years, so it should hardly be surprising that he has excelled in both 2012 and 2011.In fact, Dugat told me that his wines "began petite in 2010, 2011 and 2012 but developed in a good sense during elevage."In contrast, he added, 2009 was good from the start.Little selection was required in 2012, with Dugat only eliminating some of the larger berries; he started harvesting on September 20.As a general rule, he chaptalized the 2012s about half a degree.Incidentally, Dugat told me that his 2011s were beginning to shut down in bottle.As is his habit, Dugat racked his 2012s in May, before a few of his wines had finished their malos.
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