2012 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru

"The 2012s are easy to taste: very pinot," said Claude de Nicolay in November; she described the vintage as "a small 2009." The estate-wide yield was an infinitesimal 15 hectoliters per hectare. In recent years, François de Nicolay has eliminated a second racking and reduced his use of sulfur. The wines are generally bottled with only 15 parts per million of free SO2 and 50 total. As of 2011 this estate is certified organic by Demeter.

"The 2012s are large wines but elegant, like a better version of 2009," said Claude de Nicolay.The estate made just half of a normal crop in 2012--15 hectoliters per hectare--with mildew in May and coulure during the flowering resulting in tiny bunches on vines situated at the bottom of the slopes.Her brother Francois carried a longer cold soak than usual, including a bit of carbonic maceration with whole clusters, then more pigeages than in 2011 (two per day during the active days of fermentation), followed by a longer post-maceration fermentation than usual because the tannins were not dry.The malos then finished very early, said Claude, "right after the fermentations, and in some cases in vat."The 2012s are lower in acidity and higher in pH than average, and all the wines except for the Ile de Vergelesses and the Beaune Bressandes were in tank by the time of my visit.The estate now buys just ten new barrels each year but is not using its barrels as long as previously."People now are looking for fruit more than for structure," Claude explained."With older barrels we were losing fruit." (David Bowler Wine, www.bowlerwine.com; Ideal Wine & Spirits, www.idealwine.us; Beaune Imports, www.beauneimports.com)