2009 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru
France
Savigny Lès Beaune
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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After being impressed by this estate's 2007s, which I tasted last winter in New York, I figured it was time to return for a visit after an absence of several years. Francois de Nicolay took over winemaking in 2005, aided by his sister Claude, and evolution of technique here in recent years is now resulting in much more supple reds, with more early personality, than the wines made here through the 1990s. One key change is that the family has reduced the number of years they use their barrels from 8-15 to 5-10. According to Claude de Nicolay, very little extraction is done during the fermentation, as the cold maceration brings lots of color. Fermentation temperatures do not surpass 30oC, and four or five days of post-fermentation maceration are carried out without heating the wine. I suspect the 2009s here represent an extreme style for this estate, as grape sugars were quite high in the style of the year, some of the malos finished very early, and a couple of wines showed an exotic, chocolatey, high-toned character in November. "Two thousand nine is the yummy vintage," notes Claude, adding that Savigny, as a village, has very good acidity in 2009. The '09s here have the tannic mass to age but will give pleasure early.