2004 Corton Le Rognet Grand Cru
France
Aloxe Corton
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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Clavelier describes the 2004s as "accurate to their terroir, with good precision but lacking richness. We didn't see the sun in August. "Clavelier told me he started harvesting a few days later than his neighbors, following a lot of tasting of the grapes, then eliminated less-good fruit in the vines and on a table de trie. As is his normal practice, he did a long but gentle vinification, with gentle pigeage andup to a week of post-fermentation maceration. What he likes most of all about the '04s is their energy. In 2003, he told me, "in contrast, it's the polyphenols that will take the place of acidity and protect the wines. "Still, he added, it was necessary to pick early in 2003.