2007 Hermitage

Yields were off by almost 50% here in 2010, Faurie told me. That prodded his long-term customers to wipe out his supply of 2009s and has already put pressure on his 2011s, which he told me were still on the vine when people started trying to reserve them. Two thousand ten gave Faurie what he described as "fruit that suits my style, with strong mineral character in both the red and white wines." As for his 2009s, he said that they should be buried in the cellar, behind the 2010s, 2008s and pretty much every vintage of the last decade "except maybe the 2005s."

Yields were off by almost 50% here in 2010, Faurie told me. That prodded his long-term customers to wipe out his supply of 2009s and has already put pressure on his 2011s, which he told me were still on the vine when people started trying to reserve them. Two thousand ten gave Faurie what he described as "fruit that suits my style, with strong mineral character in both the red and white wines." As for his 2009s, he said that they should be buried in the cellar, behind the 2010s, 2008s and pretty much every vintage of the last decade "except maybe the 2005s."

Faurie is bullish on his 2009 white wines, comparing them to his excellent 2005s. "They have power and structure but are also fine, not heavy, with very good balance and minerality, which makes them good bets to cellar," he told me. "They also have relatively soft acidity so they'll drink well throughout their lives. In comparison, the white '08s are brighter and fresher, with good finesse but not the same power as the 2009s." He told me that the hallmark of the 2009 red wines is supple, fine tannins. "They have the structure to age well but they don't act like vins de garde because the fruit is hiding the structure. A lot of people are going to be fooled into drinking them too young, which will be a mistake." As for the red wines of 2008, Faurie says that "the real issue is that the wines aren't fat. They aren't malnourished but they aren't rich either. Luckily there are people who are put off by overly rich, masculine wines, and the 2008s will appeal greatly to them. They are also easy to drink, even now." Usually one can figure out which red Hermitage is which here by the color of the capsule, but not in 2008, because there are two Hermitage bottlings with gold capsules. Make sure to look for the lot number to distinguish between the different bottlings; it's stamped in white ink on the bottle.

Faurie is bullish on his 2009 white wines, comparing them to his excellent 2005s. "They have power and structure but are also fine, not heavy, with very good balance and minerality, which makes them good bets to cellar," he told me. "They also have relatively soft acidity so they'll drink well throughout their lives. In comparison, the white '08s are brighter and fresher, with good finesse but not the same power as the 2009s." He told me that the hallmark of the 2009 red wines is supple, fine tannins. "They have the structure to age well but they don't act like vins de garde because the fruit is hiding the structure. A lot of people are going to be fooled into drinking them too young, which will be a mistake." As for the red wines of 2008, Faurie says that "the real issue is that the wines aren't fat. They aren't malnourished but they aren't rich either. Luckily there are people who are put off by overly rich, masculine wines, and the 2008s will appeal greatly to them. They are also easy to drink, even now." Usually one can figure out which red Hermitage is which here by the color of the capsule, but not in 2008, because there are two Hermitage bottlings with gold capsules. Make sure to look for the lot number to distinguish between the different bottlings; it's stamped in white ink on the bottle.

Faurie is bullish on his 2009 white wines, comparing them to his excellent 2005s. "They have power and structure but are also fine, not heavy, with very good balance and minerality, which makes them good bets to cellar," he told me. "They also have relatively soft acidity so they'll drink well throughout their lives. In comparison, the white '08s are brighter and fresher, with good finesse but not the same power as the 2009s." He told me that the hallmark of the 2009 red wines is supple, fine tannins. "They have the structure to age well but they don't act like vins de garde because the fruit is hiding the structure. A lot of people are going to be fooled into drinking them too young, which will be a mistake." As for the red wines of 2008, Faurie says that "the real issue is that the wines aren't fat. They aren't malnourished but they aren't rich either. Luckily there are people who are put off by overly rich, masculine wines, and the 2008s will appeal greatly to them. They are also easy to drink, even now." Usually one can figure out which red Hermitage is which here by the color of the capsule, but not in 2008, because there are two Hermitage bottlings with gold capsules. Make sure to look for the lot number to distinguish between the different bottlings; it's stamped in white ink on the bottle.

Faurie is bullish on his 2009 white wines, comparing them to his excellent 2005s. "They have power and structure but are also fine, not heavy, with very good balance and minerality, which makes them good bets to cellar," he told me. "They also have relatively soft acidity so they'll drink well throughout their lives. In comparison, the white '08s are brighter and fresher, with good finesse but not the same power as the 2009s." He told me that the hallmark of the 2009 red wines is supple, fine tannins. "They have the structure to age well but they don't act like vins de garde because the fruit is hiding the structure. A lot of people are going to be fooled into drinking them too young, which will be a mistake." As for the red wines of 2008, Faurie says that "the real issue is that the wines aren't fat. They aren't malnourished but they aren't rich either. Luckily there are people who are put off by overly rich, masculine wines, and the 2008s will appeal greatly to them. They are also easy to drink, even now." Usually one can figure out which red Hermitage is which here by the color of the capsule, but not in 2008, because there are two Hermitage bottlings with gold capsules. Make sure to look for the lot number to distinguish between the different bottlings; it's stamped in white ink on the bottle.

Faurie is bullish on his 2009 white wines, comparing them to his excellent 2005s. "They have power and structure but are also fine, not heavy, with very good balance and minerality, which makes them good bets to cellar," he told me. "They also have relatively soft acidity so they'll drink well throughout their lives. In comparison, the white '08s are brighter and fresher, with good finesse but not the same power as the 2009s." He told me that the hallmark of the 2009 red wines is supple, fine tannins. "They have the structure to age well but they don't act like vins de garde because the fruit is hiding the structure. A lot of people are going to be fooled into drinking them too young, which will be a mistake." As for the red wines of 2008, Faurie says that "the real issue is that the wines aren't fat. They aren't malnourished but they aren't rich either. Luckily there are people who are put off by overly rich, masculine wines, and the 2008s will appeal greatly to them. They are also easy to drink, even now." Usually one can figure out which red Hermitage is which here by the color of the capsule, but not in 2008, because there are two Hermitage bottlings with gold capsules. Make sure to look for the lot number to distinguish between the different bottlings; it's stamped in white ink on the bottle.

Faurie is bullish on his 2009 white wines, comparing them to his excellent 2005s. "They have power and structure but are also fine, not heavy, with very good balance and minerality, which makes them good bets to cellar," he told me. "They also have relatively soft acidity so they'll drink well throughout their lives. In comparison, the white '08s are brighter and fresher, with good finesse but not the same power as the 2009s." He told me that the hallmark of the 2009 red wines is supple, fine tannins. "They have the structure to age well but they don't act like vins de garde because the fruit is hiding the structure. A lot of people are going to be fooled into drinking them too young, which will be a mistake." As for the red wines of 2008, Faurie says that "the real issue is that the wines aren't fat. They aren't malnourished but they aren't rich either. Luckily there are people who are put off by overly rich, masculine wines, and the 2008s will appeal greatly to them. They are also easy to drink, even now." Usually one can figure out which red Hermitage is which here by the color of the capsule, but not in 2008, because there are two Hermitage bottlings with gold capsules. Make sure to look for the lot number to distinguish between the different bottlings; it's stamped in white ink on the bottle.

The white wines came out quite well in 2008," Bernard Faurie told me. He compares them to 2006 and 1994, which "had similar freshness and the bright expression of granite." Like the rest of his neighbors he lamented the "horrible" rainstorms at the beginning of September that required him "to make the most severe selection of syrah that I can recall." Faurie is far more upbeat about his 2007 reds. "They are very accessible and fresh but they also have the depth to age," he told me. "You can drink them now or later, as you prefer." I have included Faurie's lot numbers for each bottling as it can be confusing to search the market for these unfortunately scarce wines.

The white wines came out quite well in 2008," Bernard Faurie told me. He compares them to 2006 and 1994, which "had similar freshness and the bright expression of granite." Like the rest of his neighbors he lamented the "horrible" rainstorms at the beginning of September that required him "to make the most severe selection of syrah that I can recall." Faurie is far more upbeat about his 2007 reds. "They are very accessible and fresh but they also have the depth to age," he told me. "You can drink them now or later, as you prefer." I have included Faurie's lot numbers for each bottling as it can be confusing to search the market for these unfortunately scarce wines.

The white wines came out quite well in 2008," Bernard Faurie told me. He compares them to 2006 and 1994, which "had similar freshness and the bright expression of granite." Like the rest of his neighbors he lamented the "horrible" rainstorms at the beginning of September that required him "to make the most severe selection of syrah that I can recall." Faurie is far more upbeat about his 2007 reds. "They are very accessible and fresh but they also have the depth to age," he told me. "You can drink them now or later, as you prefer." I have included Faurie's lot numbers for each bottling as it can be confusing to search the market for these unfortunately scarce wines.

Faurie has once again turned out an outstanding set of wines, but those who prefer to be whacked upside the head by their syrahs may not get it. "I'm really happy with my 2006 whites, but I don't want to say too much or you'll think that I have a big head," Faurie told me. As for red wines in his neighborhood, "2005 is more tannic and must be held, while 2006 is more balanced and fresher. The 2006s are for near-term pleasure, but they're balanced to age well. The 2005s are not very much fun right now and for the next few years. It's really too bad that people insist on drinking them now, because they belong deep in a cellar." He then gave a resigned shrug. The basic 2006 Saint-Joseph rouge had just been racked and was in no shape to be tasted. Note that the only way to tell which Hermitage cuvee is which is to check out the capsule color and the lot number on the bottle.

Faurie has once again turned out an outstanding set of wines, but those who prefer to be whacked upside the head by their syrahs may not get it. "I'm really happy with my 2006 whites, but I don't want to say too much or you'll think that I have a big head," Faurie told me. As for red wines in his neighborhood, "2005 is more tannic and must be held, while 2006 is more balanced and fresher. The 2006s are for near-term pleasure, but they're balanced to age well. The 2005s are not very much fun right now and for the next few years. It's really too bad that people insist on drinking them now, because they belong deep in a cellar." He then gave a resigned shrug. The basic 2006 Saint-Joseph rouge had just been racked and was in no shape to be tasted. Note that the only way to tell which Hermitage cuvee is which is to check out the capsule color and the lot number on the bottle.

Faurie is one of the most fastidious producers I've ever visited, habitually rinsing his pipette and glass after each taste and creeping gingerly around his crammed, tiny cellar to get to the next barrel or bottle. He always seems to have a spotless new pair of white sneakers but perhaps he simply never gets them dirty. Faurie is high on the potential for his 2005s, noting that they have "the most incredible colors I've ever seen. "He describes 2004 as "an elegant, graceful vintage that produced lovely wines. "As for 2003:"They taste like they're from Spain. "This is an excellent source for traditional, elegant wines but, sadly, the cool old label has been mothballed in favor of a modern one.

Faurie is one of the most fastidious producers I've ever visited, habitually rinsing his pipette and glass after each taste and creeping gingerly around his crammed, tiny cellar to get to the next barrel or bottle. He always seems to have a spotless new pair of white sneakers but perhaps he simply never gets them dirty. Faurie is high on the potential for his 2005s, noting that they have "the most incredible colors I've ever seen. "He describes 2004 as "an elegant, graceful vintage that produced lovely wines. "As for 2003:"They taste like they're from Spain. "This is an excellent source for traditional, elegant wines but, sadly, the cool old label has been mothballed in favor of a modern one.

The gentle personality of Bernard Faurie is reflected in his wines, which are precise, understated examples of the traditional school.Words like finesse, elegance and balance recur in his description of his various cuvees and he is obviously pleased with the results of 2004.Faurie describes these wines as "not ample, not grand, but elegant, balanced, graceful and very fine."The 2003s here have turned out very well too, albeit in a way that reflects the extreme conditions of the vintage.

The gentle personality of Bernard Faurie is reflected in his wines, which are precise, understated examples of the traditional school.Words like finesse, elegance and balance recur in his description of his various cuvees and he is obviously pleased with the results of 2004.Faurie describes these wines as "not ample, not grand, but elegant, balanced, graceful and very fine."The 2003s here have turned out very well too, albeit in a way that reflects the extreme conditions of the vintage.

Faurie was enthusiastic about his 2003s, which feature near-record ripeness levels but also plenty of tannic structure and adequate acidity. He told me he carried out his normal vinifications in 2003. Tasting here is always an adventure, as Faurie has one of the most cramped and cluttered wine cellars-actually more of a garage-that I regularly visit. Finding a particular bottle is often a challenge for Faurie:he must routinely move stacked crates of bottles to get within pipette range of his barrels. And of course, his multiple bottlings of Hermitage for the most part simply say Hermitage on the label, which makes it even trickier to snare the right samples. (Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY) Also tasted: 2002 Saint-Joseph*.

Faurie was enthusiastic about his 2003s, which feature near-record ripeness levels but also plenty of tannic structure and adequate acidity. He told me he carried out his normal vinifications in 2003. Tasting here is always an adventure, as Faurie has one of the most cramped and cluttered wine cellars-actually more of a garage-that I regularly visit. Finding a particular bottle is often a challenge for Faurie:he must routinely move stacked crates of bottles to get within pipette range of his barrels. And of course, his multiple bottlings of Hermitage for the most part simply say Hermitage on the label, which makes it even trickier to snare the right samples. (Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY) Also tasted: 2002 Saint-Joseph*.

Faurie was enthusiastic about his 2003s, which feature near-record ripeness levels but also plenty of tannic structure and adequate acidity. He told me he carried out his normal vinifications in 2003. Tasting here is always an adventure, as Faurie has one of the most cramped and cluttered wine cellars-actually more of a garage-that I regularly visit. Finding a particular bottle is often a challenge for Faurie:he must routinely move stacked crates of bottles to get within pipette range of his barrels. And of course, his multiple bottlings of Hermitage for the most part simply say Hermitage on the label, which makes it even trickier to snare the right samples. (Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY) Also tasted: 2002 Saint-Joseph*.

Faurie was enthusiastic about his 2003s, which feature near-record ripeness levels but also plenty of tannic structure and adequate acidity. He told me he carried out his normal vinifications in 2003. Tasting here is always an adventure, as Faurie has one of the most cramped and cluttered wine cellars-actually more of a garage-that I regularly visit. Finding a particular bottle is often a challenge for Faurie:he must routinely move stacked crates of bottles to get within pipette range of his barrels. And of course, his multiple bottlings of Hermitage for the most part simply say Hermitage on the label, which makes it even trickier to snare the right samples. (Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY) Also tasted: 2002 Saint-Joseph*.

Faurie was enthusiastic about his 2003s, which feature near-record ripeness levels but also plenty of tannic structure and adequate acidity. He told me he carried out his normal vinifications in 2003. Tasting here is always an adventure, as Faurie has one of the most cramped and cluttered wine cellars-actually more of a garage-that I regularly visit. Finding a particular bottle is often a challenge for Faurie:he must routinely move stacked crates of bottles to get within pipette range of his barrels. And of course, his multiple bottlings of Hermitage for the most part simply say Hermitage on the label, which makes it even trickier to snare the right samples. (Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY) Also tasted: 2002 Saint-Joseph*.

Like many of his neighbors, Faurie describes the 2001x000D vintage as more structured than 2000 but a bit less so than 1999; accordingly,x000D he rates the vintage between 1999 and 2000 in quality. Nineteen ninety-nine offered the bestx000D balance of recent years, he added. Faurie noted that Saint-Joseph was not stronger in 2001 than in thex000D previous year because there was more hydric stress. But in Hermitage, he noted, drought was not an issue inx000D 2001. Tasting here is always a bit ofx000D an adventure as Faurie does not assemble his various cuvees until the lastx000D minute. I don't want to riskx000D tiring the wine any earlier than I have to," he told me.

Like many of his neighbors, Faurie describes the 2001x000D vintage as more structured than 2000 but a bit less so than 1999; accordingly,x000D he rates the vintage between 1999 and 2000 in quality. Nineteen ninety-nine offered the bestx000D balance of recent years, he added. Faurie noted that Saint-Joseph was not stronger in 2001 than in thex000D previous year because there was more hydric stress. But in Hermitage, he noted, drought was not an issue inx000D 2001. Tasting here is always a bit ofx000D an adventure as Faurie does not assemble his various cuvees until the lastx000D minute. I don't want to riskx000D tiring the wine any earlier than I have to," he told me.

Like many of his neighbors, Faurie describes the 2001x000D vintage as more structured than 2000 but a bit less so than 1999; accordingly,x000D he rates the vintage between 1999 and 2000 in quality. Nineteen ninety-nine offered the bestx000D balance of recent years, he added. Faurie noted that Saint-Joseph was not stronger in 2001 than in thex000D previous year because there was more hydric stress. But in Hermitage, he noted, drought was not an issue inx000D 2001. Tasting here is always a bit ofx000D an adventure as Faurie does not assemble his various cuvees until the lastx000D minute. I don't want to riskx000D tiring the wine any earlier than I have to," he told me.

Like many of his neighbors, Faurie describes the 2001x000D vintage as more structured than 2000 but a bit less so than 1999; accordingly,x000D he rates the vintage between 1999 and 2000 in quality. Nineteen ninety-nine offered the bestx000D balance of recent years, he added. Faurie noted that Saint-Joseph was not stronger in 2001 than in thex000D previous year because there was more hydric stress. But in Hermitage, he noted, drought was not an issue inx000D 2001. Tasting here is always a bit ofx000D an adventure as Faurie does not assemble his various cuvees until the lastx000D minute. I don't want to riskx000D tiring the wine any earlier than I have to," he told me.

"When ripeness arrives late, as in 2000, we tend to lose acidity in Hermitage," Bernard Faurie told me in November. "As a result, the 2000s don't quite show the same clarity or structure as the '99s. August wasn't exactly great, so the skins didn't thicken up the way they usually do." Faurie offers 7,000 to 8,000 bottles of red Hermitage in a typical year, spread among three or four different cuvees and a number of small bottlings, which he does by himself. In recent years, Faurie told me, he has reduced the number of rackings?a trend that has become widespread for both syrah in the Northern Rhone Valley and grenache in the South. Faurie combed his cluttered workshop of a cellar for 20 minutes before he found the last few bottles of the '99 cuvee that had been sent to the U.S. importer, and my sample was worth the search.

"When ripeness arrives late, as in 2000, we tend to lose acidity in Hermitage," Bernard Faurie told me in November. "As a result, the 2000s don't quite show the same clarity or structure as the '99s. August wasn't exactly great, so the skins didn't thicken up the way they usually do." Faurie offers 7,000 to 8,000 bottles of red Hermitage in a typical year, spread among three or four different cuvees and a number of small bottlings, which he does by himself. In recent years, Faurie told me, he has reduced the number of rackings?a trend that has become widespread for both syrah in the Northern Rhone Valley and grenache in the South. Faurie combed his cluttered workshop of a cellar for 20 minutes before he found the last few bottles of the '99 cuvee that had been sent to the U.S. importer, and my sample was worth the search.

"When ripeness arrives late, as in 2000, we tend to lose acidity in Hermitage," Bernard Faurie told me in November. "As a result, the 2000s don't quite show the same clarity or structure as the '99s. August wasn't exactly great, so the skins didn't thicken up the way they usually do." Faurie offers 7,000 to 8,000 bottles of red Hermitage in a typical year, spread among three or four different cuvees and a number of small bottlings, which he does by himself. In recent years, Faurie told me, he has reduced the number of rackings?a trend that has become widespread for both syrah in the Northern Rhone Valley and grenache in the South. Faurie combed his cluttered workshop of a cellar for 20 minutes before he found the last few bottles of the '99 cuvee that had been sent to the U.S. importer, and my sample was worth the search.

Faurie likes '99 the best of the past three vintages; it has similar sugars to those of '98, he says, but slightly higher acidity. Faurie bottles part of his crop early, mostly for eager restaurants and private customers in France. In fact, Faurie went on about today record prices for Hermitage vines and fruit, adding that, with production of 6,000 to 7,000 bottles of red Hermitage each year, he can't keep up with demand.

Faurie likes '99 the best of the past three vintages; it has similar sugars to those of '98, he says, but slightly higher acidity. Faurie bottles part of his crop early, mostly for eager restaurants and private customers in France. In fact, Faurie went on about today record prices for Hermitage vines and fruit, adding that, with production of 6,000 to 7,000 bottles of red Hermitage each year, he can't keep up with demand.

This small cellar, essentially a garage in Faurie house in Tournon, can be a tricky place to taste unfinished wines because Faurie combines his cuvees in various ways depending on the vintage. Even the finished, labelled wines often simply say Hermitage. According to Faurie, 1997 gives an impression of ripeness without being especially high in grape sugars, while 1996 is less ripe but quite aromatic. Faurie's supple style served him well in the latter year. Faurie also bottled a bit of '96 Greffieux last spring, because the local French market has come to enjoy this fruity, early-drinking wine.

This small cellar, essentially a garage in Faurie house in Tournon, can be a tricky place to taste unfinished wines because Faurie combines his cuvees in various ways depending on the vintage. Even the finished, labelled wines often simply say Hermitage. According to Faurie, 1997 gives an impression of ripeness without being especially high in grape sugars, while 1996 is less ripe but quite aromatic. Faurie's supple style served him well in the latter year. Faurie also bottled a bit of '96 Greffieux last spring, because the local French market has come to enjoy this fruity, early-drinking wine.