1998 Côte-Rôtie
$86 (2017)
France
Côte Rôtie
Rhone
Red
Syrah (2021 vintage)
00
1998
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Although Bernard Burgaud feels that his '98 Cote-Rotie will be a vin de garde he does not believe it will support an extended elevage. "The fruit in my wines typically develops quickly after the next harvest [i.e., the following fall], especially in older barrels," notes Burgaud. "The wine goes beyond primary fruit relatively early. Thus there's more to lose than to gain by waiting to bottle." Indeed, even the '98 juice in new barrels was showing compelling, sappy fruit in November rather than just oak-putting the developing wine, according to Burgaud, a bit ahead of schedule. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)
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2021
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Beginning with the 2019 vintage, Bernard Burgaud’s son, Pierre, officially took over the family domaine, which was established in 1980. The family owns 4.5 hectares of organically farmed vines in various lieu-dits, mostly in the northern sector of Côte-Rôtie, from which a single bottling is issued. Grapes are de-stemmed, and the wine is raised in small oak barrels, roughly 15% of them new. The wine always shows an elegant personality, even in hot vintages like those of recent years. It also ages gracefully, as a recent 1989 resoundingly proves.
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2020
2027 - 2038
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Beginning with the 2019 vintage, Bernard Burgaud’s son, Pierre, officially took over the family domaine, which was established in 1980. The family owns 4.5 hectares of organically farmed vines in various lieu-dits, mostly in the northern sector of Côte-Rôtie, from which a single bottling is issued. Grapes are de-stemmed, and the wine is raised in small oak barrels, roughly 15% of them new. The wine always shows an elegant personality, even in hot vintages like those of recent years. It also ages gracefully, as a recent 1989 resoundingly proves.
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2019
2026 - 2036
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Beginning with the 2019 vintage, Bernard Burgaud’s son, Pierre, officially took over the family domaine, which was established in 1980. The family owns 4.5 hectares of organically farmed vines in various lieu-dits, mostly in the northern sector of Côte-Rôtie, from which a single bottling is issued. Grapes are de-stemmed, and the wine is raised in small oak barrels, roughly 15% of them new. The wine always shows an elegant personality, even in hot vintages like those of recent years. It also ages gracefully, as a recent 1989 resoundingly proves.
00
2018
2025 - 2035
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Beginning with the 2019 vintage, Bernard Burgaud’s son, Pierre, officially took over the family domaine, which was established in 1980. The family owns 4.5 hectares of organically farmed vines in various lieu-dits, mostly in the northern sector of Côte-Rôtie, from which a single bottling is issued. Grapes are de-stemmed, and the wine is raised in small oak barrels, roughly 15% of them new. The wine always shows an elegant personality, even in hot vintages like those of recent years. It also ages gracefully, as a recent 1989 resoundingly proves.
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2017
2023 - 2032
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2017
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Fans of Burgaud’s traditionally elegant Côte-Rôtie (the only wine that he makes) will likely find his 2017 bottling to be an anomaly given its weight and velvety texture. The same can be said for the 2016 and 2015 as well. The warmth of recent vintages and riper fruit are no doubt the major reasons for this slight turn of style as the winemaking hasn’t changed. All de-stemmed fruit, Syrah only, the use of 600 litre demi-muids, 15% to 20% renewed each year, have always been the rules here. No matter the reason, the 2017 is definitely the most fruit-forward, even opulent, and decidedly polished young wine that I can recall tasting here since the 1988, which I tried on my first visit in 1989.
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2016
2022 - 2030
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2015
2023 - 3030
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2015
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Bernard Burgaud told me that he’s extremely pleased with the 2015 vintage, noting that, unlike in 2013 and 2010, “there was little danger of getting strong tannins.” He said that even though the fruit expression is “much more like that of 2009,” there’s an energy to the wines “that’s very surprising from such a warm year.” While 2015 featured a hot growing season, he explained, “the fruit stayed fresh and there were no raisined grapes, which was completely unlike 2003, when you had to be extremely selective with the berries if you wanted the wine to be elegant and not cooked.” He believes that his 2015 will age very well—“and so will the ’13, by the way”—but he also thinks that it might not ever really shut down as “the tannins and fruit are in such good harmony.”
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2014
2020 - 2026
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Fans of elegant Côte-Rôtie long ago caught on to Bernard Burgaud's graceful, low-oaked wine (he makes only a single bottling) and while lighter vintages like 2014 here are almost always approachable soon after release, they are also balanced to age. Burgaud himself favors such years because "they showcase the elegance of wines here, not the power of the southern part of the northern Rhône." These are high-altitude plantings in a cool region, he points out, so getting richness requires harvesting on the late side "and risking getting raised fruit and dry tannins."
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2014
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While both the 2014s and the 2013s from Burgaud will age well, Bernard told me that "the '13 is the one you'll want to have the most patience with." Burgaud's Côte-Rôtie is a deceptively cellar-worthy wine that ages nicely on its balance, and I think many people underestimate it because it never shows forbidding tannins or overt structure. It’s one of the most immediately accessible wines of the appellation and rarely goes through a dumb or sullen stage, even in years like 2005 and 2010.
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2013
2020 - 2027
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While both the 2014s and the 2013s from Burgaud will age well, Bernard told me that "the '13 is the one you'll want to have the most patience with." Burgaud's Côte-Rôtie is a deceptively cellar-worthy wine that ages nicely on its balance, and I think many people underestimate it because it never shows forbidding tannins or overt structure. It’s one of the most immediately accessible wines of the appellation and rarely goes through a dumb or sullen stage, even in years like 2005 and 2010.
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2013
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In Bernard Burgaud's opinion 2013 has turned out to be "a nice, agreeable vintage, but some wines have slightly dry tannins that should soften up with a few years of bottle age." He noted that he has no complaints about his yields in 2013 and 2012, both of which gave him "about 35 hectoliters per hectare, which is good because 2014 only gave 20." Burgaud thinks that 2012 will turn out to be "a classic year, but not in the sense of 2010, which is brilliant and too good to be called classic."
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2012
2017 - 2030
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In Bernard Burgaud's opinion 2013 has turned out to be "a nice, agreeable vintage, but some wines have slightly dry tannins that should soften up with a few years of bottle age." He noted that he has no complaints about his yields in 2013 and 2012, both of which gave him "about 35 hectoliters per hectare, which is good because 2014 only gave 20." Burgaud thinks that 2012 will turn out to be "a classic year, but not in the sense of 2010, which is brilliant and too good to be called classic."
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2012
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Burgaud told me that he prefers his 2011 Cote-Rotie to his 2012 and that he also favors his 2010 over his 2009. "The '12 and '09 have richness and power but the '11 and '10 are wines of finesse, which is more my style," he said. He finds the '12s opulent and expressive "but maybe missing some of the classic elegance of Cote-Rotie," a character that he finds in spades with the earlier vintage. Two thousand eleven gave Burgaud "a healthy yield and lots of time to pick," which also gave his workers the freedom to make careful, unhurried selections in the vineyards. Burgaud believes that the key to success in the '11 vintage was whether you picked before or after the rain, "because acid levels didn't drop precipitously after the storms but sugar levels continued to rise." That said, he thinks that 2011, overall, will probably be discounted by the market, figuratively as well as literally, because "you can't follow vintages like 2009 and 2010 without people being overly critical. There's no ability to accept three really good vintages in a row."
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2011
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Burgaud told me that he prefers his 2011 Cote-Rotie to his 2012 and that he also favors his 2010 over his 2009."The '12 and '09 have richness and power but the '11 and '10 are wines of finesse, which is more my style," he said.He finds the '12s opulent and expressive "but maybe missing some of the classic elegance of Cote-Rotie," a character that he finds in spades with the earlier vintage.Two thousand eleven gave Burgaud "a healthy yield and lots of time to pick," which also gave his workers the freedom to make careful, unhurried selections in the vineyards.Burgaud believes that the key to success in the '11 vintage was whether you picked before or after the rain, "because acid levels didn't drop precipitously after the storms but sugar levels continued to rise."That said, he thinks that 2011, overall, will probably be discounted by the market, figuratively as well as literally, because "you can't follow vintages like 2009 and 2010 without people being overly critical.There's no ability to accept three really good vintages in a row."
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2011
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"A precocious vintage" is how Bernard Burgaud succinctly described 2011 for Cote-Rotie, later expanding on the thought to add that "the wines are already delicious but they have good length, which suggests that they will also age better than some think."He calls 2010a "completely singular vintage, with concentration but also charm."He said that he considers it to be "even better than 2005," the vintage that he considered to be the apex of his own winemaking until '10 came along.I find recent wines here to be far sexier, fruitier and more approachable than those of the past, but they're not at all lacking for structure.There's more sweetness, floral character and silkiness of texture to the wines today than in, say, the late 1980s and early 1990s, when Burgaud's wines often displayed dryish, gritty tannins and, often, distinctly sauvage character.Burgaud attributes this to "more mature vines and, hopefully, more personal maturity and experience as a winemaker," adding that he hasn't make a conscious style shift except for "perhaps trying to make the fruit come through the tannins a little earlier than in the past, but not to make wines that you drink right after bottling."
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2010
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"A precocious vintage" is how Bernard Burgaud succinctly described 2011 for Cote-Rotie, later expanding on the thought to add that "the wines are already delicious but they have good length, which suggests that they will also age better than some think."He calls 2010a "completely singular vintage, with concentration but also charm."He said that he considers it to be "even better than 2005," the vintage that he considered to be the apex of his own winemaking until '10 came along.I find recent wines here to be far sexier, fruitier and more approachable than those of the past, but they're not at all lacking for structure.There's more sweetness, floral character and silkiness of texture to the wines today than in, say, the late 1980s and early 1990s, when Burgaud's wines often displayed dryish, gritty tannins and, often, distinctly sauvage character.Burgaud attributes this to "more mature vines and, hopefully, more personal maturity and experience as a winemaker," adding that he hasn't make a conscious style shift except for "perhaps trying to make the fruit come through the tannins a little earlier than in the past, but not to make wines that you drink right after bottling."
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2010
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The issue with 2009, in Burgaud's opinion "is that the oak stands out in the wines so they need to be aged for the fruit to catch up."By contrast, he added, in 2010 the oak was absorbed almost immediately."The wines are expressive and hiding their tannins already.You can practically drink them straight from the barrel."Not that he recommends rushing to drink them on release:"2010 will be an aging vintage on its balance, not on its power, which is what 2009 will hopefully do."There's never more than 20% new oak used here, "for polish and a little sweetening," which no doubt accounts for the silkiness of Burgaud's wines, even from more structured vintages.
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2009
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The issue with 2009, in Burgaud's opinion "is that the oak stands out in the wines so they need to be aged for the fruit to catch up." By contrast, he added, in 2010 the oak was absorbed almost immediately. "The wines are expressive and hiding their tannins already. You can practically drink them straight from the barrel." Not that he recommends rushing to drink them on release: "2010 will be an aging vintage on its balance, not on its power, which is what 2009 will hopefully do." There's never more than 20% new oak used here, "for polish and a little sweetening," which no doubt accounts for the silkiness of Burgaud's wines, even from more structured vintages.
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2009
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"The biggest issue with 2008 was mildew," Bernard Burgaud told me. "There was a lot of work required in the vineyard during the summer and you had to keep a close on eye on the harvest, but if you were careful and attentive the quality can be very good-usually better than 2004, for example, which is a good vintage for Cote-Rotie." Two thousand nine, on the other hand, "was a dream vintage in all regards: generous crop, clean grapes, at least 13% natural alcohol, and wines that will drink well young or with age, so they'll appeal to all types of people." Burgaud, who never uses more than 20% new oak for his Cote-Rotie, sees similarities to his own 2006 in 2009 "because the wine is ample and round, with a good harmony of sweet fruit and ripe tannins and no hardness."
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2008
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"The biggest issue with 2008 was mildew," Bernard Burgaud told me. "There was a lot of work required in the vineyard during the summer and you had to keep a close on eye on the harvest, but if you were careful and attentive the quality can be very good-usually better than 2004, for example, which is a good vintage for Cote-Rotie." Two thousand nine, on the other hand, "was a dream vintage in all regards: generous crop, clean grapes, at least 13% natural alcohol, and wines that will drink well young or with age, so they'll appeal to all types of people." Burgaud, who never uses more than 20% new oak for his Cote-Rotie, sees similarities to his own 2006 in 2009 "because the wine is ample and round, with a good harmony of sweet fruit and ripe tannins and no hardness."
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2008
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Bernard Burgaud described 2008 as "a consistently damp year, with all the problems that come with that, especially mildew. It required a lot of work and no small amount of luck at the end of the season. What helped was that our harvest didn't start until September 27th and went on until the middle of October, which meant that we actually got some maturity in the grapes. But anybody who panicked and harvested during the September rains really missed out." These are wines that must be drunk young because "the fruit and concentration just isn't there for the wines to age." Like most of his neighbors, Burgaud calls 2007 a mix of 2005 and 2006. "The wines have the approachability of the '06s with the structure of the '05s and they're very mineral-driven, with excellent Cote-Rotie typicite. People who like true Cote-Rotie will really like them, and they'll age on their balance and freshness."
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2007
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Bernard Burgaud described 2008 as "a consistently damp year, with all the problems that come with that, especially mildew. It required a lot of work and no small amount of luck at the end of the season. What helped was that our harvest didn't start until September 27th and went on until the middle of October, which meant that we actually got some maturity in the grapes. But anybody who panicked and harvested during the September rains really missed out." These are wines that must be drunk young because "the fruit and concentration just isn't there for the wines to age." Like most of his neighbors, Burgaud calls 2007 a mix of 2005 and 2006. "The wines have the approachability of the '06s with the structure of the '05s and they're very mineral-driven, with excellent Cote-Rotie typicite. People who like true Cote-Rotie will really like them, and they'll age on their balance and freshness."
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2007
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"Two thousand seven is like a cross of 2006 and 2005," Bernard Burgaud told me. "It has the power of 2005 but not the solid tannins. The texture reminds me of 2006, but I find more depth and weight in '07. The 2006s should probably be drunk before the 2007s, at least for my wines. " Burgaud uses only 20% new oak: "just the amount that I replace in the normal barrel rotation. I want my wines to taste like Cote-Rotie, not like the wood. "
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2006
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"Two thousand seven is like a cross of 2006 and 2005," Bernard Burgaud told me. "It has the power of 2005 but not the solid tannins. The texture reminds me of 2006, but I find more depth and weight in '07. The 2006s should probably be drunk before the 2007s, at least for my wines. " Burgaud uses only 20% new oak: "just the amount that I replace in the normal barrel rotation. I want my wines to taste like Cote-Rotie, not like the wood. "
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2006
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Bernard Burgaud describes vintage 2006 as "great, and a style that I really like, similar to 1988 or 1989 and much more elegant than 2005." He went on: "It is a classic vintage that should appeal to everyone, while 2005 is not for everybody. The '05s are solid wines and will need a lot of time to show themselves." At the end of our tasting he opened a bottle of his 1988 to show where he thinks the 2006 will be in two decades. That 1988 was mature but with no signs of decay, offering redcurrant, dried cherry, truffle and cured tobacco aromas and flavors, and strong spice and kirsch building on the long finish.
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2005
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Bernard Burgaud describes vintage 2006 as "great, and a style that I really like, similar to 1988 or 1989 and much more elegant than 2005." He went on: "It is a classic vintage that should appeal to everyone, while 2005 is not for everybody. The '05s are solid wines and will need a lot of time to show themselves." At the end of our tasting he opened a bottle of his 1988 to show where he thinks the 2006 will be in two decades. That 1988 was mature but with no signs of decay, offering redcurrant, dried cherry, truffle and cured tobacco aromas and flavors, and strong spice and kirsch building on the long finish.
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2005
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Bernard Burgaud believes that his 2005 will age "for 20 years plus, easily" and that it's among the most promising wines he has ever made, with "wonderful richness and excellent acidity. "Burgaud offers a single wine from six vineyards, mostly on the hillside and at high altitude, and he destems completely. The wines are of the focused, elegant school, never dramatic but consistently built along classic lines. Yields here in 2005 were 36 hectoliters per hectare, which Burgaud deems ideal. (Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Oakland, CA)
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2004
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Bernard Burgaud believes that his 2005 will age "for 20 years plus, easily" and that it's among the most promising wines he has ever made, with "wonderful richness and excellent acidity. "Burgaud offers a single wine from six vineyards, mostly on the hillside and at high altitude, and he destems completely. The wines are of the focused, elegant school, never dramatic but consistently built along classic lines. Yields here in 2005 were 36 hectoliters per hectare, which Burgaud deems ideal. (Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, Novato, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Oakland, CA)
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2004
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Burgaud describes 2004 as a very classic vintage, while 2003 was "a unique year, with excessive sugar, ripeness, maturity, tannins and concentration."Like most of his colleagues, he is thrilled with the potential of his 2005.This is very small domain:Burgaud owns just four hectares of vines.The wines are characterized by their early power, weight and structure, and typically gain elegance only with patient cellaring.
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2003
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Burgaud describes 2004 as a very classic vintage, while 2003 was "a unique year, with excessive sugar, ripeness, maturity, tannins and concentration."Like most of his colleagues, he is thrilled with the potential of his 2005.This is very small domain:Burgaud owns just four hectares of vines.The wines are characterized by their early power, weight and structure, and typically gain elegance only with patient cellaring.
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2003
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Burgaud told me he lost half his 2003 crop to spring frost, and it wasn't until the second half of August that the second-generation grapes got ripe. This latter fruit came in with lower grape sugars than the rest but brought better acidity. Still, virtually all of the grapes had one side burned by the sun. "You couldn't really select," he said. "You would have had to cut the grapes in half!" By harvesting late, beginning on August 30, Burgaud said he was able to avoid getting dry tannins. The result:Burgaud neither acidified nor chaptalized in 2003, and he considers the vintage to be quite typical of Cote-Rotie. "There's not huge material in 2003, but the wine will have a good balance," he told me. "It will be drinkable early but should also be able to age. "(Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections)
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2002
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Burgaud told me he lost half his 2003 crop to spring frost, and it wasn't until the second half of August that the second-generation grapes got ripe. This latter fruit came in with lower grape sugars than the rest but brought better acidity. Still, virtually all of the grapes had one side burned by the sun. "You couldn't really select," he said. "You would have had to cut the grapes in half!" By harvesting late, beginning on August 30, Burgaud said he was able to avoid getting dry tannins. The result:Burgaud neither acidified nor chaptalized in 2003, and he considers the vintage to be quite typical of Cote-Rotie. "There's not huge material in 2003, but the wine will have a good balance," he told me. "It will be drinkable early but should also be able to age. "(Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections)
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2001
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2001
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Two thousand one was a disaster if you didn'tx000D have your fruit in good condition," said Bernard Burgaud, who describesx000D the vintage as a year of the winemaker. The grapes deteriorated quickly in the bad weather late in thex000D harvest. The skins were more sensitivex000D because they were ripe when the bad weather came, so there was more rot to gox000D along with the higher grape sugars." But Burgaud maintained that most of his late-picked fruit held up well,x000D thanks in large part to his successful use of anti-rot sprays. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France,x000D Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannanx000D Selections)
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2000
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Two thousand one was a disaster if you didn'tx000D have your fruit in good condition," said Bernard Burgaud, who describesx000D the vintage as a year of the winemaker. The grapes deteriorated quickly in the bad weather late in thex000D harvest. The skins were more sensitivex000D because they were ripe when the bad weather came, so there was more rot to gox000D along with the higher grape sugars." But Burgaud maintained that most of his late-picked fruit held up well,x000D thanks in large part to his successful use of anti-rot sprays. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France,x000D Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannanx000D Selections)
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2000
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Burgaud was happy with his 2001 harvest, which had been drawn out over a period of 15 days, rather than the usual 4 or 5. "I picked one part early due to encroaching rot," he told me, "but then waited two full weeks for the rest. My anti-rot sprays really worked." The 2000 vintage also featured a bit of rot toward the end, yet Burgaud is convinced that this vintage should last 15 to 20 years in bottle. "The challenge was to hold down yields," he noted. Burgaud's Cote-Rotie does not necessarily track those of his neighbors in style. In '99, for example, his grape sugars were high at the end of August but so were acid levels, making this a totally atypical crop, said Burgaud. Although the finished wine is a full 13.4%, some of his cuvees began at just 12% and required chaptalization. Burgaud told me he dislikes his '95 ("a lousy, rainy summer") but loves his '96 ("I had a very reasonable crop level compared to my neighbors"). (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections)
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1999
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Burgaud was happy with his 2001 harvest, which had been drawn out over a period of 15 days, rather than the usual 4 or 5. "I picked one part early due to encroaching rot," he told me, "but then waited two full weeks for the rest. My anti-rot sprays really worked." The 2000 vintage also featured a bit of rot toward the end, yet Burgaud is convinced that this vintage should last 15 to 20 years in bottle. "The challenge was to hold down yields," he noted. Burgaud's Cote-Rotie does not necessarily track those of his neighbors in style. In '99, for example, his grape sugars were high at the end of August but so were acid levels, making this a totally atypical crop, said Burgaud. Although the finished wine is a full 13.4%, some of his cuvees began at just 12% and required chaptalization. Burgaud told me he dislikes his '95 ("a lousy, rainy summer") but loves his '96 ("I had a very reasonable crop level compared to my neighbors"). (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections)
00
1999
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Bernard Burgaud produced 38 hectoliters per hectare in 1999, the same as in the previous year, despite the fact that there were two separate hailstorms before and during the flowering in '99. Like Jean-Paul Jamet, Burgaud told me that the hailed-on vines were especially high in sugar and acidity. "The vines stayed without vegetation for three weeks after the hailstorm," said Burgaud. "You would think that this would have retarded the maturity of the fruit, but it didn't. I've never seen something like this happen." Burgaud '99 will ultimately be bottled with alcohol in the low-13% range, very high for a grower who is always among the first in the appellation to harvest. The '98, meanwhile, is in-your-face Cote-Rotie, impressively dense but not for the squeamish. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)
00
1998
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Although Bernard Burgaud feels that his '98 Cote-Rotie will be a vin de garde he does not believe it will support an extended elevage. "The fruit in my wines typically develops quickly after the next harvest [i.e., the following fall], especially in older barrels," notes Burgaud. "The wine goes beyond primary fruit relatively early. Thus there's more to lose than to gain by waiting to bottle." Indeed, even the '98 juice in new barrels was showing compelling, sappy fruit in November rather than just oak-putting the developing wine, according to Burgaud, a bit ahead of schedule. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)
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1997
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Although Bernard Burgaud feels that his '98 Cote-Rotie will be a vin de garde he does not believe it will support an extended elevage. "The fruit in my wines typically develops quickly after the next harvest [i.e., the following fall], especially in older barrels," notes Burgaud. "The wine goes beyond primary fruit relatively early. Thus there's more to lose than to gain by waiting to bottle." Indeed, even the '98 juice in new barrels was showing compelling, sappy fruit in November rather than just oak-putting the developing wine, according to Burgaud, a bit ahead of schedule. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)
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1997
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After a number of cellar visits in Cote-Rotie, I asked one vigneron if he could name anyone in the appellation who made a better wine from the higher-acid vintage of '96 than from the generally richer, riper harvest of '97. He singled out Bernard Burgaud, and my tastings accord with this judgment. And yet Burgaud is the first to admit that he usually makes Cote-Rotie with higher acidity than the wines of his neighbors, a tendency one might easily think would give him a particularly severe wine in '96 and a relatively fresh one in '97. Go figure. Burgaud dropped crop repeatedly in '96 to keep his ultimate yield to 38 hectoliters per hectare; the yield in '97 was 39 h/h. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)
00
1996
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After a number of cellar visits in Cote-Rotie, I asked one vigneron if he could name anyone in the appellation who made a better wine from the higher-acid vintage of '96 than from the generally richer, riper harvest of '97. He singled out Bernard Burgaud, and my tastings accord with this judgment. And yet Burgaud is the first to admit that he usually makes Cote-Rotie with higher acidity than the wines of his neighbors, a tendency one might easily think would give him a particularly severe wine in '96 and a relatively fresh one in '97. Go figure. Burgaud dropped crop repeatedly in '96 to keep his ultimate yield to 38 hectoliters per hectare; the yield in '97 was 39 h/h. (Alain Junguenet/Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; Martine Wines, San Rafael, CA; Europvin/Christopher Cannan Selections, Watertown, MA)
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1991
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