1997 Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru

"Nineteen ninety-seven was a very difficult, delicate vintage," says Charles Rousseau. The wines required acidification but almost no chaptalization. Rousseau is not especially concerned about the effects of adding acid. "The first vintage I acidified was 1980, and it still my favorite," he pointed out. Rousseau top '96s have turned out extremely well. It's a vintage with high extract, noted Rousseau, like '90 and '88. Even the gregarious Rousseau, who would rather discuss the state of French cuisine than his own wines, admits to being overwhelmed by the current worldwide thirst for Burgundy. "Today we have more visitors than bottles to sell them."