1988 Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
00
1988
2017 - 2027
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This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
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2023
2030 - 3060
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Cyrielle Rousseau welcomed me to this iconic Gevrey address on a damp autumnal morning. She is always someone with whom I enjoy shooting the breeze. Thank goodness walls don’t have ears.
“We did a green harvest where we got rid of half of the bunches,” she tells me. “But there was still a lot of fruit. Everything that seemed a bit shriveled was not picked. The temperatures made sure that the grapes were mature. We started on September 7 and picked over eight days, only picking in the morning. We had a little botrytis in Mazis-Chambertin but that aside, everything was beautiful. Most of the appellation is at the maximum yield with some pickers leaving grapes unpicked. In any case, all the vats were full.”
This is an exquisite set of wines from Rousseau that embody everything that is great about them. Often overlooked is their sheer drinkability. These are not wines to keep as prizes, instead wines that cry out to be drunk. They are built around extremely fine tannins, lighter chassis than in 2022, yet unlike others they deliver just the right amount of concentration combined with terroir expression on the finish. Only the Mazis-Chambertin left me wondering if it reached full potential, perhaps knocked off-balance by that touch of botrytis?
00
2022
2027 - 2065
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Cyrielle Rousseau and the family’s three lively canines welcomed me to the winery in Gevrey-Chambertin. As usual, colored plastic diamonds were placed on barrels where she would dip her pipette to extract their 2022s and presumably impart magic powers. Rousseau’s vines literally lay in the eye of the storm that targeted Gevrey at the end of June. “The lower cellar was flooded,” she tells me, like Arnaud Mortet a few days earlier, confirming that the local meteorological station’s equipment could not measure the exact amount due to the sheer scale of inundation. “It could have been up to 200mm of rain that day. This caused a lot of soil erosion, especially in Clos Saint-Jacques, Clos-de-Bèze and Charmes-Chambertin. We had to hire a digger and move 200 tonnes [yes, you read that correctly] back up the slope that was then spread by hand back underneath the vines. It took three people a fortnight to complete. But the rest of the season was dry, and we picked over nine days from 31 August. All the wines are de-stemmed with just a handful to enhance flow inside the vat.”
What can I say? If you like Rousseau (and your palate is malfunctioning if you don’t), you will adore the 2022s that enabled them to execute their ethereal, transparent winemaking style. The top cuvées are surfeit with complexity. Following the trend of recent years, the Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze has a haunting complexity, a wine befitting its reputation, closely followed by the almost Zen-like Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes and a sterling Mazy-Chambertin. Rousseau’s wines can be approachable young, but rather than guzzling them in Beaune restaurants with barely months in bottle, as witnessed by a few people, stash them away in your cellar. Their deceiving longevity is legendary.
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2021
2025 - 2042
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Rouss eau‘clock is one of my most eagerly anticipated rendezvous during my Burgundy marathon, and I have no need to explain why. Having bonded with their two dogs, who attempted to lick me to death through the main gate, winemaker Cyrielle de Rousseau escorts me down to their barrel cellar to taste through their 2021s. “It was a horrible and complicated season,” she admits. “Everything that could happen, did happen. Hail, oïdium…for us, the most impact was botrytis in September. Everything was fine until a week before picking. We started on 22 September, and there was a lot of sorting to do. This is done almost entirely in the vineyard. So the harvest took longer than usual, around ten days. The fermentation was normal, and we will bottle around March or April.” Asking about specific loss in crop, Cyrielle Rousseau gives me a philosophical answer. “I don’t see it as a loss of volume. It’s a ‘full crop’ of what we have in our cellar.” I suppose that she looks at the 2021 as a glass half full instead of half empty.
These 2021s epitomise “transparent” Pinot Noir. It neatly folds into Rousseau’s signature style. Highlights include a wonderful Charmes-Chambertin and an enthralling Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze that defies the appalling growing season. It has the hubris to outshine a slightly introspective Chambertin, which is akin to a gifted student vexing over adulthood. Cyrielle Rousseau pointed out that the Chambertin comes from a colder terroir, closer to the forest, that is exposed to cool air descending the Combe de Lavaux and its more clayey soils, disadvantaging this cru in a season marked by lower temperatures (and vice versa).
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2020
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2020
2030 - 2070
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2019
2028 - 2047
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2019
2025 - 2050
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A large crane loomed over Domaine Armand Rousseau. Winemaker Cyrielle Rousseau told me that they are building a new winery and enlarging the barrel cellar, though they must see if the indigenous yeast will migrate into the new and initially sterile surroundings. Unlike other producers, Rousseau told me that they had no problem with flowering in 2019 and that yields were normal at around 30-35hl/ha when they commenced picking on 12 September. “I never think about how the wines will be,” she told me. “I just come down after the following harvest and just see how they are without any preconceptions.”
Unfortunately the Clos Saint-Jacques had warning of my arrival and shut down just hours before. Others were singing, including an ethereal Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze that seemed to show a little more substance than the Chambertin, a Ruchottes-Chambertin that was a paradigm of transparency and a heavenly Mazy-Chambertin. These are not powerful wines and offer more red-coloured fruit than say, Dugat-Py, I tasted directly before.
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2018
2027 - 2060
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2018
2024 - 2055
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Winemaker Cyrielle Rousseau was on hand to guide me through their 2018s. Since she has so many appointments at this time of year, she is asked the same old questions (she loves being asked the exact pH of every wine), so we conversed about such diverse matters as countries we would love to visit (she has a calling for Nicaragua, though I am not sure if Domaine Rousseau has a huge following there), food we love to eat (she is a self-confessed "cheese monster", in particular Vacherin) and music (we both share a fondness for Joni Mitchell, although at that moment she fancied listening to Claire de Lune during our tasting.) She told me that the domaine began picking on 1 September with the village crus and finished around eight days later. "I was worried that the wines might be heavy with the high sugar levels, but now I am very pleased with the 2018s. We did nothing different this vintage. They are very Rousseau," she told me, before mentioning that she was especially pleased with her "behaving" Clos de la Roche because for once it is not reduced after racking. All the 2018s are de-stemmed as usual with modest amounts of new oak. I tasted all these wines directly from cask, the ones with the coloured "magic crystals" that a) indicate which one to extract wine from and b) give Cyrielle special magic powers. If you love Rousseau (and frankly you don’t like wine if you don’t) then you will adore these 2018s.
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2017
2022 - 2050
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2017
2027 - 2055
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2017
2022 - 2045
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Cyrielle Rousseau, plus beloved hound, guided me through the domaine’s 2017s. As I have written before, she seems unfazed by taking the tiller of a prestigious name whose wines are now so astronomically priced on the secondary market that I can no longer afford to look at a bottle, let alone buy one. That is the reverence afforded to a domaine that has produced such a bevy of fermented wonder in recent years that offers so much drinking pleasure, as banal as that sounds. The wines never preen. They never expect adulation. They just seem to trigger the senses, and you fall in love. As I mentioned in my “Blind Vision” piece, there are some who suggest that the wines are not quite what they used to be, and recent experiences have implied a loss of focus around 2013 or 2014. That said, the post-2015 wines have been superb and the 2017s are no different.
Cyrielle Rousseau, who still looks as if she would be asked for ID if she ordered a bottle of her own wine in a bar, is refreshingly nonchalant and honest about the wines (always a good sign in my book). “We started picking on September 5 and harvested over the following week,” she told me, placing what appeared to be purple multi-sided Dungeons and Dragons dice on the barrel to mark which ones have been opened. “Everything went well during the growing season and as usual, everything has been de-stemmed. I find the 2017s quite spicy at the moment. They wake you up a bit.”
What needs to be said? If you love Rousseau – and frankly, you must be teetotal if you do not – then you will adore these 2017s. There are not the most powerful or the most profound ever produced by the domaine, yet they are imbued with a sense of honesty and bewitching balance, perfectly reflecting the growing season in which they were born. Repeating my assertion in my main introduction, these 2017s simply epitomize what Rousseau’s wine should be, quintessential in every respect.
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2016
2023 - 2055
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2016
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I tasted this year with Eric Rousseau’s daughter Cyrielle, who has degrees in geology, viticulture and enology as well as work experience in Oregon, Australia and New Zealand. She joined her father at the family domain in 2012.
As has been widely reported, this estate lost two-thirds of their Chambertin production to frost in 2016, a rarity for this great grand cru vineyard (their adjacent Clos de Bèze was barely touched). Damage was most severe in the upper portion of the vineyard. The Rousseaus also lost a good bit of their Clos Saint-Jacques fruit as the lower half of this vineyard suffered from the frost, but the rest of their vineyards basically escaped this severe weather event.
The estate started harvesting on September 23, bringing in their fruit with potential alcohol between 12.8% and 13% and chaptalizing by just a few tenths of a degree. The fermentations were very easy, according to Cyrielle Rousseau, but because they took a while to begin, the maximum temperatures in the tanks were only about 30 degrees C., which she feels helped to preserve the vintage’s fruit. Rousseau noted that pHs in 2016 are in the 3.6 to 3.65 range, similar to those in 2015. But the wines are quite different, she added: “The 2016s talk but the 2015s yell, so the earlier vintage is harder to understand.” The ‘15s also appeared to be in the process of shutting down in bottle in January, but this is clearly a great vintage chez Rousseau, and the ‘16s may well be in the same quality league.
Incidentally, Cyrielle told me that Eric Rousseau essentially pays no attention to the phases of the moon when deciding when to rack and to bottle his wines. As a skeptic rather than a true believer, I found this now-minority view refreshing. “It’s more a question of when he can’t work in the vineyards,” she explained, adding that the parcel of vines they manage for the new owner of the Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, from which they make a separate village wine, the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Chateau, is farmed biodynamically.
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2015
2027 - 2060
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2015
2028 - 2046
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I tasted this year with Eric Rousseau’s daughter Cyrielle, who has degrees in geology, viticulture and enology as well as work experience in Oregon, Australia and New Zealand. She joined her father at the family domain in 2012.
As has been widely reported, this estate lost two-thirds of their Chambertin production to frost in 2016, a rarity for this great grand cru vineyard (their adjacent Clos de Bèze was barely touched). Damage was most severe in the upper portion of the vineyard. The Rousseaus also lost a good bit of their Clos Saint-Jacques fruit as the lower half of this vineyard suffered from the frost, but the rest of their vineyards basically escaped this severe weather event.
The estate started harvesting on September 23, bringing in their fruit with potential alcohol between 12.8% and 13% and chaptalizing by just a few tenths of a degree. The fermentations were very easy, according to Cyrielle Rousseau, but because they took a while to begin, the maximum temperatures in the tanks were only about 30 degrees C., which she feels helped to preserve the vintage’s fruit. Rousseau noted that pHs in 2016 are in the 3.6 to 3.65 range, similar to those in 2015. But the wines are quite different, she added: “The 2016s talk but the 2015s yell, so the earlier vintage is harder to understand.” The ‘15s also appeared to be in the process of shutting down in bottle in January, but this is clearly a great vintage chez Rousseau, and the ‘16s may well be in the same quality league.
Incidentally, Cyrielle told me that Eric Rousseau essentially pays no attention to the phases of the moon when deciding when to rack and to bottle his wines. As a skeptic rather than a true believer, I found this now-minority view refreshing. “It’s more a question of when he can’t work in the vineyards,” she explained, adding that the parcel of vines they manage for the new owner of the Château de Gevrey-Chambertin, from which they make a separate village wine, the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Chateau, is farmed biodynamically.
00
2015
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Eric Rousseau is not normally the excitable type when it comes to assessing a new vintage but he considers 2015 to be great, "with more intensity than 2005, which is still tannic and tight. The wines will last for a long time but give pleasure early.” He harvested between September 3 and 10, with grape sugars around 13%, chaptalizing lightly to prolong the fermentations. Rousseau typically carries out a cuvaison lasting 20 days, with a total of 10 punchdowns and 10 pumpovers for each wine. These 2015s are wonderfully sexy and scented and showcase the richness and sweetness of the year. Rousseau’s Chambertin is one of my early candidates for wine of the vintage.
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2014
2028 - 2044
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As outstanding as Eric Rousseau's 2015s are, his 2014s may be even more precise and classic examples of their various terroirs As is his usual practice, Rousseau was among the earlier harvesters in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin but potential alcohol levels were still close to 13% for most of his '14s--or roughly the same as his '15s Rousseau's '15s may be more pliant and voluptuous but the '14s are more pungent and penetrating The '14s were bottled in April of '16 with a light filtration
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2014
2028 - 2044
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As outstanding as Eric Rousseau's 2015s are, his 2014s may be even more precise and classic examples of their various terroirs. As is his usual practice, Rousseau was among the earlier harvesters in the village of Gevrey-Chambertin but potential alcohol levels were still close to 13% for most of his '14s--or roughly the same as his '15s. Rousseau's '15s may be more pliant and voluptuous but the '14s are more pungent and penetrating. The '14s were bottled in April of '16 with a light filtration.
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2014
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Although Eric Rousseau’s top 2013 cuvées are stunning, he believes that the 2014s show “a wider palate of terroir-typical aromas" than the earlier crop of wines. The 2014s, he added, "show upfront fruit and their finishes make you salivate; the 2013s are even more saline." As is his usual habit, Rousseau picked early in 2014, beginning on September 12 but bringing in fruit with relatively high potential alcohol ranging from 12. 7% to 13. 2%. Crop levels were healthy at about 40 hectoliters per hectare for the village wines and 36 to 37 for the crus, which are still lower than the yields here in 2012 and 2010, according to business manager Frédéric Robert. Rousseau destemmed all of his fruit in 2014 but added back some stems for the vinification. The 2014s were racked and sulfited in June.
Even the first few wines in the 2014 line-up caught my attention in December—a testament to the work that Rousseau has done in the vines over the past decade; it wasn’t too many years ago that these first few cuvées were consistently underwhelming.
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2013
2026 - 2042
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Veteran fans of this great domain know that Rousseau often does best in cooler vintages with sound levels of natural acidity. Eric Rousseau, whose tireless work in the vines allows him to ripen his fruit even in difficult years (he’s frequently among the first in Gevrey-Chambertin to start harvesting), has made a very dense, sappy set of 2013s with exhilarating perfume and definition. Although Rousseau finds that his 2014s display “a wider palate of terroir-typical aromas" than the ‘13s, I was knocked out by his top crus from the earlier vintage.
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2013
2025 - 2043
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There are plenty of highlights in this range from Eric Rousseau, and not just at the top end. The 2013s are intensely aromatic and pliant, with plenty of the vintage's signature verve. Production is down, as it is everywhere in Burgundy, but not as dramatically as in 2012. The lower levels of ripeness give many of the wines in the range more early appeal than is typical, so I expect many of these wines will drink well with minimal cellaring. Rousseau fans will not want to miss the En St. Jacques bottling in 2013, which is magnificent.
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2013
2028 - 2045
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Ripeness was "just at the limit" of 11.5% in 2013, said Eric Rousseau, who chaptalized his wines to 12.8% to 13%. After eliminating botrytis-affected fruit, Rousseau made an average of 31 hectoliters per hectare, or a bit more than in 2012. Although the 2012s may be riper, I very much enjoyed the sappiness and precision of the 2013s. "The color was easy to extract in 2013 as there was good phenolic material," said Rousseau, adding that the wines have fine-grained tannins and good balance. The pHs were in the range of 3.5 in both 2013 and 2012. Incidentally, Rousseau showed me four different cuvées of his Clos Saint-Jacques, as well as an approximation of the final blend. He will probably bottle a bit of each so that he can follow them, but current plans are to release just the blend.
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2012
2027 - 2052
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I had a sense when I visited Rousseau last year that I was catching the wines at an awkward stage. Based on the two finished 2012s I tasted, that appears to have indeed been the case. Such is the nature of the beast when it comes to tasting wines from barrel in Burgundy.
00
2012
2029 - 2047
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Eric Rousseau's top 2012s are stunningly complex and sappy wines, from a generally slightly lower crop level than in 2013. He describes the '12s as "fruitier, riper and denser" than the '13s but does not believe they are built for "huge aging, as they don't have the tannic structure of 1999 or 2005." I was very impressed by the top cuvées here.
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2012
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Eric Rousseau told me in November that for the time being he prefers 2011 to 2012, but that 2012 "shows the terroir more accurately.It will be best to hold these wines for seven or eight years, but I don't think 2012 will be a year for extended aging.The wines are more elegant than the 2010s."He picked from September 20 through 30 with no rot, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol between 12% and 13% and chaptalizing lightly.Rousseau destems all of his fruit but now adds back 10% of the stems for the vinification.The malos finished in February and June and the wines had been racked at the beginning of September but were still in barrel.
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2012
2018 - 2030
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Eric Rousseau's 2012s come across as a bit subdued. I find the 2012s lacking the energy and the depth that is common in this vintage. But Pinot Noir is a finicky grape, and the wines were all racked just before the harvest, so I will not be surprised if the 2012s will be more impressive in a few months. Today, the 2012s are a bit uneven and not fully formed, with less of the thrill factor that usually accompanies a visit to this cellar. I found a number of 2011s from bottle more exciting than their 2012 counterparts. It will be interesting to see what paths these two very different vintages take over the coming years and decades.
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2011
2019 - 2035
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2011
2021 - 2041
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It is always fascinating to taste Rousseau’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin side-by-side, as they are flagship wines for the domaine and also reference points for Burgundy more broadly. These eight wines set the stage for an animated discussion of terroir, vintages and a handful of other subjects that are near and dear to the hearts of Burgundy lovers.
My favorite of the four vintages in this tasting was 1991. “Ninety ninety-one was a bit of a forgotten vintage at the time,” Rousseau explained. “It came after 1988, 1989 and 1990, all of which were strong. Perhaps journalists thought Burgundy couldn’t possibly have four excellent vintages in a row.” I also liked the 1988s quite a bit, although in my view, the wines are ready drink and offer little upside for improvement at this stage because the fruit is starting to dry out. The 2000s were both quite expressive, although without the visceral thrill of the very best years. Admittedly, that is a very high bar. In any other setting, Rousseau’s 2000s would have probably stolen the show. The only vintage that was somewhat disappointing was 2011. I liked the wines more from barrel and bottle a few years ago, enough to buy them. On this afternoon, though, the two 2011s were quite closed, which is not surprising for Burgundies of this pedigree tasted in their adolescence, but I also picked up on slightly vegetal notes that neither wine showed in their youth. It will be interesting to see how the 2011s behave over the coming years and decades.
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2011
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2011
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This was one of the most splendid sets of 2011s I tasted in Burgundy, with even the first few wines in the range here showing concentrated fruit and sweet tannins.Eric Rousseau told me that despite terrible weather between mid-July and mid-August, the fruit reached good phenolic maturity and maintained solid acidity; he began harvesting on August 31.Potential alcohol levels ranged from 11.8% to as high as 13% for some of his young-vines parcels.In fact, he added, "the 2011s are robust wines with firmer tannins than the 2010s."(I should note that Rousseau's top cuvees in 2010 are some of the most spectacular young Burgundies I've ever tasted.)All of the wines had been racked in June or July, following the end of the malolactic fermentations in April and May.Rousseau emphasized that he practices the same vinification every year "to preserve the differences between the crus and between the vintages."
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2010
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2010
2025 - 2050
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My visit with Eric Rousseau was one of the highlights of my fall trip. The 2010s are fabulous from top to bottom. Rousseau started picking on September 22. The fruit saw about four days of cold soak followed by a cuvaison that lasted anywhere from 15 to 21 days, depending on the wine. I was equally thrilled with the 2009s I tasted from bottle. I will have more on those wines in our April issue.
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2010
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Eric Rousseau destems virtually all of his fruit but noted that with his gentler destemmer he has gotten more uncrushed grapes into the fermenter since the '07 and '08 vintages. This gives more reductive wines in the early going, but less of an oxidative crushed berry character. Rousseau reported that production in 2010 was down 30% to 40% from 2009 levels. He harvested on the early side, beginning on September 22 with potential alcohol levels between 12% and 13.1%. Rousseau praises the vintage for its bracing quality, for its intensity and purity of fruit, and for its fine tannins. While he believes that the 2010s should last longer than the 2009s, he thinks that the '09s will also shut down in the bottle. The 2010 malos finished between May and July, and the wines were racked at the end of July. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY
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2009
2023 - 2045
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2009
2019 - 2039
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2009
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2009
2024 - 2049
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I tasted the following wines with Frédéric Robert, who works alongside Eric Rousseau. In 2009 Rousseau and his team began picking on September 7, the earliest in Gevrey. For the first time the estate used 20% whole clusters on all the wines except for Clos de la Roche, which was closer to 15%. The 2009s were scheduled to be bottled in April 2011. I also tasted a handful of 2008s that were deeply impressive.
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2009
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Eric Rousseau started harvesting on September 7 and was shocked to discover that he and his team were the only ones in the village to be picking. Grape sugars were in the healthy 12.5% to 13.2% range, according to Rousseau, and he chaptalized lightly at the end of the fermentations, except for the Clos de Beze. It's hard to argue with his decision to harvest early, as his top cuvees look to be some of the finest and most perfumed wines of the vintage. Rousseau vinified with 15% to 20% whole clusters in all of his wines with the exception of the Clos de la Roche, but noted that he did not use vendange entier in 2010. The malos finished last January and February, and the wines were racked during the summer. Rousseau believes that the 2009s will be very good to drink over the next 10 years ("better than the 2005s") but that the '05s will be superior in 15 to 20 years.
00
2008
2018 - 2038
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I tasted the following wines with Frédéric Robert, who works alongside Eric Rousseau. In 2009 Rousseau and his team began picking on September 7, the earliest in Gevrey. For the first time the estate used 20% whole clusters on all the wines except for Clos de la Roche, which was closer to 15%. The 2009s were scheduled to be bottled in April 2011. I also tasted a handful of 2008s that were deeply impressive.
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2008
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2008
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Given the vicissitudes of the 2008 growing season and harvest, the purity and perfume of the new crop of wines here is nothing short of magical. "We try to be organic," Eric Rousseau told me, "but we had no choice but to use some chemicals in 2008 due to the outbreak of oidium in some of our grand crus, especially in Clos de la Roche." There was then a strict sorting of the fruit in the vines at harvest-time to eliminate rotten and pink grapes, as the estate does not own a sorting table. Fruit sugars were in the healthy 11.5% to 13% (Clos de Beze) range, and acids were high. In fact, said Rousseau, the numbers were similar to those of 1996, but yields were much higher in '96 (in 2008 they averaged only 30 hectoliters per hectare). Rousseau believes that there's a slight disequilibrium between the acids and tannins of the wines and their density of material. He expressed the opinion that the balance of the wines will be better in the early going and in the mid term than after long aging. At the same time, he told me that 2008 has more acidity and tannin than his 2006s, with similar purity. In fact, he also prefers 2007 to 2006 for its greater density.
00
2007
2021 - 2050
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2007
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Given the vicissitudes of the 2008 growing season and harvest, the purity and perfume of the new crop of wines here is nothing short of magical. "We try to be organic," Eric Rousseau told me, "but we had no choice but to use some chemicals in 2008 due to the outbreak of oidium in some of our grand crus, especially in Clos de la Roche." There was then a strict sorting of the fruit in the vines at harvest-time to eliminate rotten and pink grapes, as the estate does not own a sorting table. Fruit sugars were in the healthy 11.5% to 13% (Clos de Beze) range, and acids were high. In fact, said Rousseau, the numbers were similar to those of 1996, but yields were much higher in '96 (in 2008 they averaged only 30 hectoliters per hectare). Rousseau believes that there's a slight disequilibrium between the acids and tannins of the wines and their density of material. He expressed the opinion that the balance of the wines will be better in the early going and in the mid term than after long aging. At the same time, he told me that 2008 has more acidity and tannin than his 2006s, with similar purity. In fact, he also prefers 2007 to 2006 for its greater density.
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2007
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Eric Rousseau made it clear that he considers 2007 superior to 2006. "The wines have more material and density and beautiful purity of fruit, not to mention excellent balance," he told me. He noted that he normally finds his Lavaux Saint-Jacques and Mazy-Chambertin to be the disappointing wines in the context of his cellar, but not in 2007. Crop levels ranged between 30 and 38 hectoliters per hectare in 2007 and 2006 (Rousseau typically leaves seven bunches per vine when he green-harvests), and he tossed out roughly the same percentage of rotten grapes in both years, eliminating this fruit in the vineyard rather than on a sorting table. The malos took place during the first three months of 2008 and the wines were racked in September.
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2006
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Eric Rousseau made it clear that he considers 2007 superior to 2006. "The wines have more material and density and beautiful purity of fruit, not to mention excellent balance," he told me. He noted that he normally finds his Lavaux Saint-Jacques and Mazy-Chambertin to be the disappointing wines in the context of his cellar, but not in 2007. Crop levels ranged between 30 and 38 hectoliters per hectare in 2007 and 2006 (Rousseau typically leaves seven bunches per vine when he green-harvests), and he tossed out roughly the same percentage of rotten grapes in both years, eliminating this fruit in the vineyard rather than on a sorting table. The malos took place during the first three months of 2008 and the wines were racked in September.
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2006
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Eric Rousseau describes his young 2006s as elegant and stylish. He expects this vintage to be agreeable in its youth, even if though he thought the wines were beginning to close down for the winter in early November, as the temperature of his cellar descended. Incidentally, estate-wide yields were in the 35 hectoliters-per-hectare range in 2007, 2006 and 2004, but more like 45 in 2005. Grape sugars in 2006 were virtually the same as those of the previous year. Rousseau told me that the late July hail was worst in some village parcels, as well as in Chapelle-Chambertin, Griottes-Chambertin and Clos de Beze. On the other hand, he had little problem with rot. He mostly had to pick off the dry berries at harvest time (the estate does not have a sorting table, since Rousseau prefers to eliminate lesser fruit in the vines), and the yield in Clos de Beze was ultimately just 15 hectoliters per hectare.
00
2005
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Eric Rousseau describes his young 2006s as elegant and stylish. He expects this vintage to be agreeable in its youth, even if though he thought the wines were beginning to close down for the winter in early November, as the temperature of his cellar descended. Incidentally, estate-wide yields were in the 35 hectoliters-per-hectare range in 2007, 2006 and 2004, but more like 45 in 2005. Grape sugars in 2006 were virtually the same as those of the previous year. Rousseau told me that the late July hail was worst in some village parcels, as well as in Chapelle-Chambertin, Griottes-Chambertin and Clos de Beze. On the other hand, he had little problem with rot. He mostly had to pick off the dry berries at harvest time (the estate does not have a sorting table, since Rousseau prefers to eliminate lesser fruit in the vines), and the yield in Clos de Beze was ultimately just 15 hectoliters per hectare.
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2005
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Eric Rousseau describes 2005 as "a great vin de garde; it's rare to get a vintage as perfect as 2005." He went on: "It was an exceptional year for Burgundy in terms of the lack of problems. It wasn't too hot, and although there was not much water, the vines did not suffer. And of course the harvest was very clean, and there were virtually no rotten or green grapes to eliminate." The estate carried out a severe green harvest during the second half of July, but production was still in the 40 to 48 hl/ha range, which Rousseau described as "high for us." Rousseau has stopped heating the cellar to bring about a rapid malolactic fermentation, but the malos nonetheless started in November and finished in March.
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2004
2021 - 2028
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2004
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Eric Rousseau describes 2005 as "a great vin de garde; it's rare to get a vintage as perfect as 2005." He went on: "It was an exceptional year for Burgundy in terms of the lack of problems. It wasn't too hot, and although there was not much water, the vines did not suffer. And of course the harvest was very clean, and there were virtually no rotten or green grapes to eliminate." The estate carried out a severe green harvest during the second half of July, but production was still in the 40 to 48 hl/ha range, which Rousseau described as "high for us." Rousseau has stopped heating the cellar to bring about a rapid malolactic fermentation, but the malos nonetheless started in November and finished in March.
00
2004
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After visiting with Charles Rousseau in his office in the courtyard of this estate, I tasted the 2004s with new assistant Anne Schussler, who told me that the estate lost one-third of its harvest to hail. "But it was an easy matter to eliminate the rotten and hailed-on grapes at the harvest, in the vines," she said. The ultimate production was between 2002 and 2003 in size-or about 32 hectoliters per hectare for the grand crus. This year, the Rousseaus did not heat their cellar to push through the malolactic fermentations, with the result that the malos occurred in a leisurely fashion; some wines did not finish until summer. They should all be bottled by the summer of 2006, said Schussler. I found these wines reasonably pure but lacking in stuffing and real concentration; a few of the big boys seemed to be hiding behind their tannins in November. But it must be noted that due to the late malos these wines were considerably less advanced than they usually are at the same date.
00
2003
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After visiting with Charles Rousseau in his office in the courtyard of this estate, I tasted the 2004s with new assistant Anne Schussler, who told me that the estate lost one-third of its harvest to hail. "But it was an easy matter to eliminate the rotten and hailed-on grapes at the harvest, in the vines," she said. The ultimate production was between 2002 and 2003 in size-or about 32 hectoliters per hectare for the grand crus. This year, the Rousseaus did not heat their cellar to push through the malolactic fermentations, with the result that the malos occurred in a leisurely fashion; some wines did not finish until summer. They should all be bottled by the summer of 2006, said Schussler. I found these wines reasonably pure but lacking in stuffing and real concentration; a few of the big boys seemed to be hiding behind their tannins in November. But it must be noted that due to the late malos these wines were considerably less advanced than they usually are at the same date.
00
2003
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"The numbers at the harvest of 2003 were not good, but they're much better now," said Charles Rousseau.The Rousseaus harvested from August 23 through 31, on the early side and in the mornings only, for fear of losing more acidity. They threw away a lot of dried grapes, and most of those they kept were very small. The vinifications lasted a relatively short 10 days, versus a normal 15 or more here.Rousseau acidified the musts but noted that the pHs were always decent despite the low levels of acidity, and he observed that little acidity was lost during the malolactic fermentations.The wines had been racked in February of 2004 following the typically early malolactic fermentations here, and again in September."Today the wines are tasting fresh, but we don't know why," said Corinne Rousseau."Maybe they're not going to be for drinking right away.The grape sugars were in the 13% to 13.5% range, which is normal for us.And unlike 1997 and 1998, the wines show no overripe character.We don't understand that either."Incidentally, with the 2002 vintage, the Rousseaus introduced a new destemmer that doesn't crush the berries, and they report that it slows down the beginning of the fermentations by a day or two.
00
2002
2017 - 2042
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This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
2002
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park, New York, in May 2012
00
2002
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"The numbers at the harvest of 2003 were not good, but they're much better now," said Charles Rousseau.The Rousseaus harvested from August 23 through 31, on the early side and in the mornings only, for fear of losing more acidity. They threw away a lot of dried grapes, and most of those they kept were very small. The vinifications lasted a relatively short 10 days, versus a normal 15 or more here.Rousseau acidified the musts but noted that the pHs were always decent despite the low levels of acidity, and he observed that little acidity was lost during the malolactic fermentations.The wines had been racked in February of 2004 following the typically early malolactic fermentations here, and again in September."Today the wines are tasting fresh, but we don't know why," said Corinne Rousseau."Maybe they're not going to be for drinking right away.The grape sugars were in the 13% to 13.5% range, which is normal for us.And unlike 1997 and 1998, the wines show no overripe character.We don't understand that either."Incidentally, with the 2002 vintage, the Rousseaus introduced a new destemmer that doesn't crush the berries, and they report that it slows down the beginning of the fermentations by a day or two.
00
2002
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Vintage 2002 was a perfect year, like 1999 and 1996, said Corinne Rousseau: The wines are ripe, fine and balanced, with excellent acidity and length."Only the Lavaux Saint-Jacques was chaptalized.Yields in thegrand crus were around 32 hectoliters per hectare, or slightly lower than in 2001 and 2000.The estate carried out a green harvest in all its younger vines in 2002, as it has done each year since 1999.According to Rousseau, the 2002s are a bit less marked by terroir and more by sheer ripeness than the 2001s.I was knocked out by the young 2002s but underwhelmed by the finished 2001s, which had shown very well a year earlier.Once again, I couldn't help wondering how many Rousseau wines would be better served by less handling and earlier bottling.The young 2002s had been racked in January and February following the typically early malolactic fermentations, then again in late July or August.The estate's habit is to bottle late:the 2001s were bottled at the end of July 2003, which Rousseau described as "one month earlier than usual."
00
2001
2020 - 2051
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This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
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2001
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Vintage 2002 was a perfect year, like 1999 and 1996, said Corinne Rousseau: The wines are ripe, fine and balanced, with excellent acidity and length."Only the Lavaux Saint-Jacques was chaptalized.Yields in thegrand crus were around 32 hectoliters per hectare, or slightly lower than in 2001 and 2000.The estate carried out a green harvest in all its younger vines in 2002, as it has done each year since 1999.According to Rousseau, the 2002s are a bit less marked by terroir and more by sheer ripeness than the 2001s.I was knocked out by the young 2002s but underwhelmed by the finished 2001s, which had shown very well a year earlier.Once again, I couldn't help wondering how many Rousseau wines would be better served by less handling and earlier bottling.The young 2002s had been racked in January and February following the typically early malolactic fermentations, then again in late July or August.The estate's habit is to bottle late:the 2001s were bottled at the end of July 2003, which Rousseau described as "one month earlier than usual."
00
2001
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Charles Rousseau told me that 2001 is "less good than 2000," as the newer vintage has a bit less structure. But it's a bit early to judge the real quality of 2000." Today, Rousseau likes 1999 and 2002 best among recent vintages. He was excited about 2002 in November. Grape sugars went as high as 13.7% in the Clos de Beze," he told me. August was not wet but it wasn't hot either, with the result that the 2002 fruit retained good acidity." Rousseau, incidentally, was one of several Burgundy growers who told me in November that he clearly prefers his 1991s to his 1990s today.
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2000
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It is always fascinating to taste Rousseau’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin side-by-side, as they are flagship wines for the domaine and also reference points for Burgundy more broadly. These eight wines set the stage for an animated discussion of terroir, vintages and a handful of other subjects that are near and dear to the hearts of Burgundy lovers.
My favorite of the four vintages in this tasting was 1991. “Ninety ninety-one was a bit of a forgotten vintage at the time,” Rousseau explained. “It came after 1988, 1989 and 1990, all of which were strong. Perhaps journalists thought Burgundy couldn’t possibly have four excellent vintages in a row.” I also liked the 1988s quite a bit, although in my view, the wines are ready drink and offer little upside for improvement at this stage because the fruit is starting to dry out. The 2000s were both quite expressive, although without the visceral thrill of the very best years. Admittedly, that is a very high bar. In any other setting, Rousseau’s 2000s would have probably stolen the show. The only vintage that was somewhat disappointing was 2011. I liked the wines more from barrel and bottle a few years ago, enough to buy them. On this afternoon, though, the two 2011s were quite closed, which is not surprising for Burgundies of this pedigree tasted in their adolescence, but I also picked up on slightly vegetal notes that neither wine showed in their youth. It will be interesting to see how the 2011s behave over the coming years and decades.
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2000
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Charles Rousseau told me that 2001 is "less good than 2000," as the newer vintage has a bit less structure. But it's a bit early to judge the real quality of 2000." Today, Rousseau likes 1999 and 2002 best among recent vintages. He was excited about 2002 in November. Grape sugars went as high as 13.7% in the Clos de Beze," he told me. August was not wet but it wasn't hot either, with the result that the 2002 fruit retained good acidity." Rousseau, incidentally, was one of several Burgundy growers who told me in November that he clearly prefers his 1991s to his 1990s today.
00
2000
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"There were the beginnings of rot from July onward," said Corinne Rousseau of the 2000 growing season, "but we did a lot of green harvesting and then severe selection in the vines at the time of harvest. At first we thought 2000 would be a simply fruity vintage for drinking young," she added, "but the wines have been developing more structure as they age, and it now appears that they have more backbone than years like '92 and '97." In fact, these 2000s were showing gloriously the day I sampled them, as aromatically complex as any set of 2000s I tasted in November. Rousseau describes the fruit in '99 as black cherry, while in '00 it tends toward raspberry.
00
1999
2025 - 2050
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1999
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1999
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This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1999
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"There were the beginnings of rot from July onward," said Corinne Rousseau of the 2000 growing season, "but we did a lot of green harvesting and then severe selection in the vines at the time of harvest. At first we thought 2000 would be a simply fruity vintage for drinking young," she added, "but the wines have been developing more structure as they age, and it now appears that they have more backbone than years like '92 and '97." In fact, these 2000s were showing gloriously the day I sampled them, as aromatically complex as any set of 2000s I tasted in November. Rousseau describes the fruit in '99 as black cherry, while in '00 it tends toward raspberry.
00
1999
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Potential alcohol levels at this estate were in the very high 13.0-13.5% range in '99, which meant that none of the grand crus required chaptalization, Charles Rousseau told me in November. The yields were full, but not at all excessive (just 40 hectoliters per hectare for the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques and the Clos de Beze), and in any event, Rousseau noted, they were a good 10% to 15% lower than in '96. The cool nights in the period leading up to the '99 harvest helped the grapes retain acidity, Rousseau added, with the result that relatively little acidification was needed during the vinification. The wines showed very well in November; even the Gevrey villages grabbed my attention. The '98s were also impressive from barrel a year ago, but a few of my samples of the finished wines did not quite deliver on their early promise. The Rousseau wines have established a strong track record for aging gracefully, so it possible the '98s are just going through an awkward stage.
00
1998
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1998
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This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1998
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Potential alcohol levels at this estate were in the very high 13.0-13.5% range in '99, which meant that none of the grand crus required chaptalization, Charles Rousseau told me in November. The yields were full, but not at all excessive (just 40 hectoliters per hectare for the Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques and the Clos de Beze), and in any event, Rousseau noted, they were a good 10% to 15% lower than in '96. The cool nights in the period leading up to the '99 harvest helped the grapes retain acidity, Rousseau added, with the result that relatively little acidification was needed during the vinification. The wines showed very well in November; even the Gevrey villages grabbed my attention. The '98s were also impressive from barrel a year ago, but a few of my samples of the finished wines did not quite deliver on their early promise. The Rousseau wines have established a strong track record for aging gracefully, so it possible the '98s are just going through an awkward stage.
00
1998
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Rousseau carried out an extensive green harvest in 1999, and had the pictures to prove it. Still, he said, the estate-wide average was 42 hectoliters per hectare due to the large size of the grapes. In '98 and '97, in comparison, yields were in the low 30 h/h range. The '98s, which had been racked before the harvest, were showing very well in November. In fact, I was more impressed than ever before by the flavor intensity demonstrated by the first few wines in Rousseau's range; more than one of his colleagues told me that the work done in the vines in recent years by Charles's son Eric is bearing fruit. Rousseau Sr. continues adamantly to oppose heavily extractive vinification, which he says simply makes black wines without finesse. "All the wines made that way are the same," he notes. He believes that a healthy pH is critical, and thus reacidified the '98s in cuve, as he did with the '97s. The '97s have not benefitted from the late bottling done at this domain.
00
1997
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Rousseau carried out an extensive green harvest in 1999, and had the pictures to prove it. Still, he said, the estate-wide average was 42 hectoliters per hectare due to the large size of the grapes. In '98 and '97, in comparison, yields were in the low 30 h/h range. The '98s, which had been racked before the harvest, were showing very well in November. In fact, I was more impressed than ever before by the flavor intensity demonstrated by the first few wines in Rousseau's range; more than one of his colleagues told me that the work done in the vines in recent years by Charles's son Eric is bearing fruit. Rousseau Sr. continues adamantly to oppose heavily extractive vinification, which he says simply makes black wines without finesse. "All the wines made that way are the same," he notes. He believes that a healthy pH is critical, and thus reacidified the '98s in cuve, as he did with the '97s. The '97s have not benefitted from the late bottling done at this domain.
00
1997
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"Nineteen ninety-seven was a very difficult, delicate vintage," says Charles Rousseau. The wines required acidification but almost no chaptalization. Rousseau is not especially concerned about the effects of adding acid. "The first vintage I acidified was 1980, and it still my favorite," he pointed out. Rousseau top '96s have turned out extremely well. It's a vintage with high extract, noted Rousseau, like '90 and '88. Even the gregarious Rousseau, who would rather discuss the state of French cuisine than his own wines, admits to being overwhelmed by the current worldwide thirst for Burgundy. "Today we have more visitors than bottles to sell them."
00
1996
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1996
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1996
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1996
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This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1996
2016 - 2024
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00
1996
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"Nineteen ninety-seven was a very difficult, delicate vintage," says Charles Rousseau. The wines required acidification but almost no chaptalization. Rousseau is not especially concerned about the effects of adding acid. "The first vintage I acidified was 1980, and it still my favorite," he pointed out. Rousseau top '96s have turned out extremely well. It's a vintage with high extract, noted Rousseau, like '90 and '88. Even the gregarious Rousseau, who would rather discuss the state of French cuisine than his own wines, admits to being overwhelmed by the current worldwide thirst for Burgundy. "Today we have more visitors than bottles to sell them."
00
1996
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In the past I have referred to the levage here as inflexible, and wondered whether Charles Rousseau practice of multiple rackings and rather late bottling (the better cuvees are generally bottled in two installments: the first part during the second June and July, the second part a couple months later). However, the uncommonly sociable Rousseau assured me on my most recent visit that he takes firm measures to keep the wines fresh, including the use of substantial carbonic gas and keeping the wine on its fine lees until the second racking. Rousseau generally favors vintages with strong acid and tannin structure: he believes that his '96s will be for drinking earlier than the '95s but will still prove to be vins de garde Thus, he adds, the wines will be difficult to judge in their youth. The grapes were quite firm at the time of the '96 harvest, Rousseau points out, and the skins were reasonably thick. They were also small enough to permit good concentration, Rousseau maintains. He picked relatively late, but his fruit still had strong acidity, and a lower pH than in the previous year.
00
1995
2025 - 2050
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00
1995
2017 - 2027
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1995
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
In the past I have referred to the levage here as inflexible, and wondered whether Charles Rousseau practice of multiple rackings and rather late bottling (the better cuvees are generally bottled in two installments: the first part during the second June and July, the second part a couple months later). However, the uncommonly sociable Rousseau assured me on my most recent visit that he takes firm measures to keep the wines fresh, including the use of substantial carbonic gas and keeping the wine on its fine lees until the second racking. Rousseau generally favors vintages with strong acid and tannin structure: he believes that his '96s will be for drinking earlier than the '95s but will still prove to be vins de garde Thus, he adds, the wines will be difficult to judge in their youth. The grapes were quite firm at the time of the '96 harvest, Rousseau points out, and the skins were reasonably thick. They were also small enough to permit good concentration, Rousseau maintains. He picked relatively late, but his fruit still had strong acidity, and a lower pH than in the previous year.
00
1993
2022 - 2055
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00
1993
2019 - 2035
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00
1993
2017 - 2037
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1993
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This wine was tasted informally at the Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, held in April 2015 at the Bouley Test Kitchen in New York City.
00
1992
2018 - 2023
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00
1991
2023 - 2040
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00
1991
2017 - 2037
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1991
2016 - 2030
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It is always fascinating to taste Rousseau’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin side-by-side, as they are flagship wines for the domaine and also reference points for Burgundy more broadly. These eight wines set the stage for an animated discussion of terroir, vintages and a handful of other subjects that are near and dear to the hearts of Burgundy lovers.
My favorite of the four vintages in this tasting was 1991. “Ninety ninety-one was a bit of a forgotten vintage at the time,” Rousseau explained. “It came after 1988, 1989 and 1990, all of which were strong. Perhaps journalists thought Burgundy couldn’t possibly have four excellent vintages in a row.” I also liked the 1988s quite a bit, although in my view, the wines are ready drink and offer little upside for improvement at this stage because the fruit is starting to dry out. The 2000s were both quite expressive, although without the visceral thrill of the very best years. Admittedly, that is a very high bar. In any other setting, Rousseau’s 2000s would have probably stolen the show. The only vintage that was somewhat disappointing was 2011. I liked the wines more from barrel and bottle a few years ago, enough to buy them. On this afternoon, though, the two 2011s were quite closed, which is not surprising for Burgundies of this pedigree tasted in their adolescence, but I also picked up on slightly vegetal notes that neither wine showed in their youth. It will be interesting to see how the 2011s behave over the coming years and decades.
00
1991
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This wine was tasted at the La Paulee Gala Dinner in San Francisco, 2008.
00
1990
2022 - 2045
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00
1990
2017 - 2022
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1989
2019 - 2025
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00
1989
2017 - 2027
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This tasting of Rousseau’s Chambertin spanned eleven vintages back to 1988. As so often happens with Burgundy, there were a few surprises. In this case, those surprises came in the form of several wines that were far more expressive and rewarding than the pedigree of their vintages might have suggested. With wine, but especially with Burgundy, it often pays to buy the producer first and the vintage second.
00
1988
2016 - 2020
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It is always fascinating to taste Rousseau’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin side-by-side, as they are flagship wines for the domaine and also reference points for Burgundy more broadly. These eight wines set the stage for an animated discussion of terroir, vintages and a handful of other subjects that are near and dear to the hearts of Burgundy lovers.
My favorite of the four vintages in this tasting was 1991. “Ninety ninety-one was a bit of a forgotten vintage at the time,” Rousseau explained. “It came after 1988, 1989 and 1990, all of which were strong. Perhaps journalists thought Burgundy couldn’t possibly have four excellent vintages in a row.” I also liked the 1988s quite a bit, although in my view, the wines are ready drink and offer little upside for improvement at this stage because the fruit is starting to dry out. The 2000s were both quite expressive, although without the visceral thrill of the very best years. Admittedly, that is a very high bar. In any other setting, Rousseau’s 2000s would have probably stolen the show. The only vintage that was somewhat disappointing was 2011. I liked the wines more from barrel and bottle a few years ago, enough to buy them. On this afternoon, though, the two 2011s were quite closed, which is not surprising for Burgundies of this pedigree tasted in their adolescence, but I also picked up on slightly vegetal notes that neither wine showed in their youth. It will be interesting to see how the 2011s behave over the coming years and decades.
00
1987
2022 - 2030
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00
1985
2022 - 2042
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1984
2022 - 2032
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00
1983
2022 - 2030
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00
1979
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1978
2025 - 2032
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1978
2022 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1977
2022 - 2029
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1976
2024 - 2034
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1976
2022 - 2034
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1972
2022 - 2040
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1971
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1970
2022 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1969
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1966
2022 - 2028
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1964
2022 - 2032
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1961
2022 - 2038
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1955
2022 - 2036
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1953
2022 - 2028
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1950
2022 - 2040
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1948
2022 - 2040
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1919
2022 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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