2010 Saint-Péray Ongrie

The fact that the 2010 harvest took place a full three weeks later than that of 2009 is the reason why the tannins of the earlier vintage are less harmonious, according to winemaker Alberic Mazoyer. "Two thousand nine was a much hotter season and the fruit had to be brought in a bit early because acids were dropping. In 2010 we were able to pick whenever we wanted." Mazoyer showed me all of the 2009 Saint-Perays again this year because when I tasted them last November they had only been in bottle for a short spell. The Harmonie is an open-knit, highly appealing wine that is just as lively as it was last year, but with added heft and roundness. I'd drink it over the next three years or so. As for the Terres Boisees, I liked its blend of richness and vivacity and was surprised by how it seems to have firmed up in the last year. Mazoyer says that he think it will be at its peak in another two years and that it should be served "with a rich fish dish with lots of butter," which sounds like a good plan to me. The 2009 Fleur de Crussol has also tightened up in the last twelve months and is now emphasizing its minerality and florality. I suspect that it will be a slow ager, although it is pretty alluring right now, especially with some aeration.