2009 Saint-Péray Ongrie
France
Saint Péray
Northern Rhône
White
Rhone Blend
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Director/winemaker Alberic Mazoyer told me that "there's no reason that Cornas should be rustic unless the wine has been polluted by brettanomyces or dirty oak. It's richer than other wines of the Rhone, sure, because it's warmer here, but coarse tannins and strong animal character are just signs of inattentive winemaking. Cornas should be a marriage of power and freshness. Yes, Cornas is tannic, but the tannins can and should be fine and harmonious. People who expect Cornas to be sauvage are probably using flawed wines as their measuring stick, and that's just wrong." Mazoyer calls 2009 "a different animal than other hot years like 2003 and 2005. There was good rain in the winter and early spring, then it was sunny and dry through the season but not overly hot. There was also a lot of water in the ground from 2008 so there wasn't hydric stress on the vines as in '03 and '05. There also weren't any heat spikes, which means that the grapes matured steadily, which is also good. The wines are pretty rich but they're more supple than the '05s and '03s, with less firmness and dry character."