2007 Saint-Péray Ongrie
France
Saint Péray
Northern Rhône
White
Rhone Blend
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According to director and winemaker Alberic Mazoyer, 2008 is a lot like 2004. "The wines have very good fragrance and purity but aren't especially powerful. The harvest went very late and we finished picking on October 28 so there's good complexity to the wines. If you didn't get scared by the September rains and rush your harvest, you were rewarded by another month of nice weather and the vines had time to recover. But if you panicked," he went on, "you got green grapes and flavors that were not fully mature." He also pointed out that the further north you go in 2008 the more difficult the vintage was. "Cornas mostly missed the problems that hit Cote-Rotie, for example, and you'll find that the wines here don't have the greenness and sharp acidity that you get up north." He also told me that he thinks that classic Cornas "is an exercise in controlled rusticity; the wines shouldn't be too polished or they'll be anonymous syrah." (Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports, West Newton, MA) Also recommended: 2007 Saint-Joseph Les Vinsonnes (86).