2010 Cornas
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2023 - 2038
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I tasted this year's set of wines with Olivier Clape, who told me that things in the cellar were now "like in the old days" because his grandfather, Auguste, "got a new knee and now he's everywhere, all the time."Indeed, the senior Clape was more in evidence this past November than I've noticed in years, and highly animated to boot.The 2010s here are the best wines I've had from Clape in recent memory, meaning even better than the outstanding 2005s, which is saying something.Olivier said that yields played a huge part in the success of the 2010s, pointing out that their vineyard gave them less than 25 hl/ha, as opposed to about 40/hl/ha in 2011.He calls 2010 "a lot like 1990," while 2011 is "quite classic, with very good freshness and balance."The family's hillside vineyards' exposures benefited enormously from the sun in 2010, Olivier said, "but there's great acidity to balance it, which was less the case in 2009 and what makes it a unique vintage."The Clapes recently purchased another hectare of vines in Saint-Peray that include about 40% roussanne, which Olivier says will help bring weight, texture and power to that bottling in the future and also make it more age-worthy, as the wine right now is one that the Clapes "like to drink young, while the fruit is fresh."
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According to Pierre-Marie Clape, "the short-term downside with the 2009s is that they are continuing to gain structure since they've gone into bottle, at the expense of freshness.They're very dense and hard to understand at this point."He strongly advises against opening his '09s any time soon "because they're in an intellectual stage now, not a sensual one."Two thousand ten, on the other hand, "is racier in style and a classic northern vintage compared to '09, which is more southern in character.The fruit of the 2010s is brighter and more red, while '09 is dark."
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