2007 Cornas

I tasted with Pierre-Marie Clape on a morning following two days of rain, and he was concerned that the low pressure "might have compressed the wines' aromas." But I actually found his 2008s and 2007s pretty easy to read. Production here was off by over 25% in 2008, but Clape admitted that "this is a good time to be making less wine," given the weak market. He notes that 2008 isn't a vintage to get excited about "but there's a nice spiciness to the wines that is reminiscent of Crozes-Hermitage. They're wines to drink as soon as they come out." There will be more Cornas Renaissance than usual in 2008 because Clape did a severe selection for the flagship Cornas and kicked a good bit of juice that normally goes into the top wine down into the entry-level bottling. He also blended his 2008 Cornas press wine into the Vin des Amis "to give it more presence and backbone." Clape likes his 2007s but prefers the 2006s because "they are more complete and will have a longer aging curve. With their pretty, upfront fruit, the '07s will be showing most of their potential on the young side, but the '06s will live a long time on their balance. They'll surprise a lot of people."

"There was no rain in August, then we got a good soaking at the very beginning of September, which kick-started the vines," Olivier Clape said while discussing the 2007 vintage. "The 2007s are easier wines than the 2006s here," his father Pierre-Marie chimed in, adding that he thinks the earlier vintage will reward patience. The Clapes are blessed with an ample collection of old vines in the best sites of Cornas, with many 50 to 60 years of age. The wines are never destemmed, which I believe is a major reason that they are usually among the most highly perfumed of the appellation. The domain also depends on ambient yeasts and the wines are raised in ancient foudres that are into their fourth decade of use. As Cornas goes, a good amount of wine is made here: Clape produces about 8,000 bottles of Renaissance and 16,000 bottles of Cornas classique in typical vintages like 2006 and 2007. The 2005 Cornas, by the way, is displaying a wonderfully vivacious character right now, with deep, sweet red and dark berry fruit and sexy Asian spice character. If you have a few bottles, it's worth taking one for a spin. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA) Also recommended: 2007 Vin des Amis Vin de Table de France (87), 2007 Cotes du Rhone (88).