2004 Dom Pérignon
France
Épernay
Champagne
Sparkling White
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
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2022 - 2042
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2019 - 2039
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I tasted a wide range of Champagnes with Chef de Caves Vincent Chaperon on two recent visits to Dom Pérignon. The biggest surprise was how well the 1995 P2 and P2 Rosé are aging. Ninety ninety-five has always lived in the shadow of 1996, but it is a vintage that very much deserves to be appreciated for its own considerable merits.
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2018 - 2038
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Two thousand-eighteen is a big year for Dom Pérignon, as Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy officially hands over the reins to his successor, Vincent Chaperone. I tasted a wide range of wines with Geoffroy and Chaperone during my annual visit. The 2008 Dom Pérignon is very hot in the market right now, but I would be looking for opportunities to pick up the 2002 and 2004 for near and medium-term drinking. In several recent verticals, both wines have been positively stunning.
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2017 - 2037
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Once again I tasted a wide range of Champagnes with Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy and his talented protégé Vincent Chaperone. Dom Pérignon is among the houses that is releasing their 2009 tête de cuvée ahead of the 2008. Notes on both vintages are included here, along with impressions on a number of other wines. Over the years, I have had the best and most consistent results with the original release of Dom Pérignon, bought on release.
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2015 - 2044
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A soft-spoken man of few words, Dom Pérignon’s longtime Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy is one of the most provocative figures in Champagne. For years, Geoffroy has quietly pushed the envelope at Dom Pérignon with a series of bold wines that have redefined what a Champagne grande marque is and can be. Between a bevy of strong new releases and a steady flow of ultra-rare and equally expensive late-disgorged releases from the P2 and P3 lines, there is little question Dom Pérignon is the most daring of the grande marques today.
I recently sat down with Geoffroy to taste through a small vertical of Dom Pérignon going back to 2002. For the first time in the maison’s history, Dom Pérignon has released five successive vintages. This tasting provides a great opportunity to see how the 2006 compares to its older siblings and also check in on the 2002 and 2004, both now established as fabulous vintages at Dom Pérignon.
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2015 - 2044
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Once again, I was super-impressed with the 2005 Dom Pérignon, which showed beautifully in a mini-vertical of the last four releases. In 2005, a very challenging vintage, Moët & Chandon did not bottle a single drop of vintage Champagne. The small amount of fruit that was deemed of high quality went into Dom Pérignon, which has turned out to be stellar. Readers may also want to check out this comprehensive retrospective of Dom Pérignon Rosé, which is likely the most extensive and historical tasting of the Rosé that has even been staged.
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
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2014 - 2044
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I tasted wide range of wines this year with Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy. While some of the older Champagnes I tasted are sublime, the truth is they will be nearly impossible to come by and priced in the stratosphere. Those wines should be great, and they are often much more than that. Instead, though, it is the 2005 that impressed me most given how difficult that vintage was in Champagne. Moët made no vintage wines at all under their label that year, just a bit of Dom Pérignon and Dom Pérignon Rosé. From what I have tasted so far, the 2005s here will be among the wines of the vintage. Best of all, they will provide great short and medium-term drinking while the 2002s and 2004s are left in the cellar. Readers should note that with the 1998 vintage, the Oenothèque series has been re-branded as P2 and P3 which refer to the second and third plenitudes, or windows of maturity, for those wines. If anything, though, the P2 wines are being released too early. The 1996 is only now beginning to deliver real pleasure. It will be interesting to see how long the soon-to-be-released 1998 takes to reach the same place. In my view, Dom Pérignon remains one of the best relative values in high-end, collectible wine. My suggestion is to buy the wines immediately upon release (to mitigate issues that might arise with provenance) and forget about them for at least a decade.
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2016 - 2034
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Richard Geoffroy, ably assisted by his right-hand man, Vincent Chaperone, continues to set the bar high at Dom Pérignon. Even with all the bling that accompanies big-brand Champagne, these are very serious wines to the core. During my most recent visit I tasted a number of wines from magnum. It is generally understood that wines age better and more gracefully in larger formats. That is even truer with Champagne. I wish I could tell you I had scientific evidence (I don't) but my instincts tell me that because the bottle is also a fermentation vessel for Champagne, bottle size deeply impacts the overall quality and personality of wines aged in large formats.
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