2018 Barolo Castelletto Vigna Pressenda
Italy
Monforte D'alba
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo (2021 vintage)
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2018
2025 - 2038
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Conterno-Fantino created a set of elegant, polished Barolos in 2018 that capture the better side of what the year had to offer. These are very pretty, sleek Barolos that are deserving of attention. As has been the case the last few years, the old classics here - Vigna del Gris and Sorì Ginestra - are aged entirely in French oak, while the newer entries - Pressenda and Mosconi - spend a year in French oak followed by a year in cask.
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2021
2025 - 2036
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This is a gorgeous set of wines from Conterno-Fantino, starting with the Dolcetto all the way up to the Barolos. I have always admired this estate for their consistency across the entire range. The 2021 Barolos saw 15-18 days on the skins. Malolactic fermentation was done in barrel. The wines were raised in French oak barriques to start, and then a combination of cask and barrique for the second year of aging. Conterno-Fantino has very smartly updated their style in recent years, but without completely changing the wines. That's a winning approach, in my view.
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2020
2026 - 2040
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Fabio Fantino has done a superb job in shepherding his family’s estate into its second generation. In my view, the wines have never been better. Today’s Barolos show greater precision and energy than the wines of the past, and I say that as someone who bought these wines heavily in the early 2000s. The 2020 Barolo harvest was relatively compact, from October 7 to 10. The wines still see quite a bit of French oak, including malolactic fermentation in barrel, but the introduction of casks in the second year of aging and an overall emphasis on freshness in the wines have been so beneficial. The 2020s are seriously impressive.
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2019
2026 - 2039
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I was blown away by the wines I tasted at Conterno-Fantino. The 2019s are nuanced, transparent and wonderfully expressive of place. In other words, everything Barolo should be. Everything starts in the vineyard, which has always been evident here. In recent years, Fabio Fantino has refined that approach, giving the wines a level of precision that is impossible to miss. The 2019s spent 15-18 days on the skins, far longer than a decade ago, and were aged in a combination of barrique and 25hL casks. The 2019s are simply stellar.
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2017
2025 - 2037
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I was so impressed with these 2017 Barolos from Conterno-Fantino. Quite simply, these are some of the most convincing wines of the year. Moreover, the overall level is pretty much on par with 2016, which is remarkable and points to the level of seriousness found at this reference point estate perched in this hills outside the Monforte town center.
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2016
2021 - 2031
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Fabio Conterno describes 2016 as a year with a very long vegetative cycle and a late harvest. The 2016s are striking and loaded with site character. Time on the skins ranges from 12-15 days, longer than in the past. The Barolos can be divided into two groups in terms of aging: the Vigna del Gris and Sorì Ginestra - the two classics in this range - see 100% new oak, while the two newcomers - the Castelletto Vigna Pressenda and Mosconi Vigna Ped - see a year in cask and a year in larger format oak.
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2015
2020 - 2035
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This is a strong set of wines from Conterno-Fantino. I continue to be impressed with the two more recent additions to the range of Barolos. The Castelletto Vigna Pressenda and Barolo Mosconi are both terrific in 2015. The wines saw 12-15 days on the skins in rotary tanks, which is quite a departure from the 1990s, when 6-7 days was more typical. As has been the case for the last few years, the four Barolos are divided essentially into two stylistic camps when it comes to aging. The Barolo Vigna del Gris and Barolo Sorì Ginestra, the estate's flagships, are aged entirely in French oak, although the influence of new barrels has come down. The Castelletto and Mosconi see a year in barrel, but spend their second year in cask, an approach that works beautifully for those two crus.
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2014
2020 - 2029
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Conterno-Fantino's 2014 Barolos show the vintage at its very best. All four Barolos are marked by ripe, sweet tannin that gives the wines considerable allure and raciness. The 2014s saw approximately 12 days on the skins. Conterno-Fantino gave their historic wines - Vigna del Gris and Sori Ginestra - two years in French oak, while the two newer wines - Mosconi and Pressenda - follow a more modern aging regimen of one year in cask and a second year in barrel. Yields are down 25% across the board.
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2013
2020 - 2033
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These are four beautiful Barolos from Conterno-Fantino. The estate's fans will note a new wine, a stunning Barolo from Pressenda that challenges the most established wines in the range in 2013. The 2013s saw about 15 days on the skins. After a few years of experimenting with their oak regime, Conterno-Fantino has settled on an approach in which the legacy Barolos (Vigna del Gris and Sorì Ginestra) are aged entirely in French oak, while the two new wines (the Pressenda and Mosconi) are aged in barrique the first year and cask the second year. If there is anything the Conterno-Fantino wines lack is the ability to age gracefully and consistently for more than 20 years or so.
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