2004 IX Estate
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2015 - 2025
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Following the departure of long-time winemaker Mark Aubert (he is now making wine for Bryant Family Vineyards in addition to his own label), assistant winemaker Allison Tauziet is at the helm here, with ongoing consulting assistance from Chateau Quinault's (St. Emilion) Alain Raynaud. The team bottled the 2004s last March, a few months earlier than usual, due to the vintage's high alcohol and ripeness and because they felt the wines were absorbing a lot of oak. These wines are remarkably rich, with alcohol levels typically in the mid to high 15% range. The 2005 growing season here got off to an early start and then benefited from a cooler summer and longer hang time. According to Ann Colgin, the estate dropped a lot of crop in August-"more than most people did." On my most recent visit, I was especially struck by the two Herb Lamb Vineyard bottlings, which showed more consistent ripeness than in some previous vintages. In fact, this is probably no coincidence, as vineyard management guru David Abreu got involved with this property in July of 2004 and immediately made the decision to open up the canopy and get better sun exposure in this north-facing vineyard.
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I'm happy to report that the syrah at this mountaintop estate overlooking Lake Hennessey is delivering on its early promise, showing superb breadth and complexity of flavor and more freshness than a wine at its level of pH (normally at least 3. 9) has any right to show. Colgin's collection of 2003 cabernet-based wines has turned out extremely well, and the young 2004s promise even greater richness. Winemaker Mark Aubert seeks to harvest in the high 26o-28o brix range, but noted that there was no watering back of the must in 2003.
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