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Giovanna Neri of Col di Lamo farms nine hectares of vines surrounding the winery in the cool northeast section of Montalcino. For years now, Col di Lamo has been on the rise, using all organic methods in the vineyards and a natural approach in the cellar, employing spontaneous fermentations, long macerations and refinement in a mix of large Slavonian and French casks. In 2016, we have our first taste of the new single-vineyard Diletta, sourced from a two-hectare parcel, which Neri planted twenty years ago and believes yields her best fruit. It remains to be seen if the house Brunello will be affected over time. I found the 2016 to be quite fruit-forward yet incredibly pure, with a structure that might outpace its fruit over time.
As for 2015, it marks the first vintage that Neri has decided to make a Riserva; yet when samples were received, I came to realize that they sent a 2016 Brunello Riserva. Imagine my delight? The Riserva spends thirty-six months in a blend of large Slavonian and French oak, along with 30% in smaller wood barrels. There will be no 2017 Riserva. I continue to eagerly watch Col di Lamo because I believe the potential here has yet to be fully realized.
