2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento

Col d’Orcia goes back to one of the very first properties to make Brunello, originally under the name Azienda Sant'Angelo. When this large estate split, the two sons went on to create Il Poggione and Col d’Orcia. The modern-day property consists of 550 hectares, of which only one quarter is planted to vines. It’s from here that Col d’Orcia creates some of Montalcino’s greatest wines. The terroir is one of the region’s best, and the size of their vineyards permits them to maintain a strict selection, yet it would be a mistake to overlook the fact that it is a focus on quality and the propagation of their oldest vines through massal selection that truly separates them from most producers.

Col D'Orcia's Brunello di Montalcino continues to be one of the best produced throughout the region, with a staying power that has been proven time and again through library releases and vertical tastings. The Poggio al Vento Riserva could be considered Col d’Orcia's crowning achievement of; from its first vintage in 1974 (although under a different name) through today, it remains one of the most age-worthy, yet highly enjoyable wines produced in Montalcino, named for the location of its old vines, Poggio al Vento (or hilltop of the wind). Lastly, it pays to look at their range of IGT Toscana and Sant'Antimo wines, where we find international varieties that take advantage of the same noble terroir as Sangiovese.

Col d’Orcia goes back to one of the very first properties to make Brunello, originally under the name Azienda Sant'Angelo. When this large estate split, the two sons went on to create Il Poggione and Col d’Orcia. The modern-day property consists of 550 hectares, of which only one quarter is planted to vines. It’s from here that Col d’Orcia creates some of Montalcino’s greatest wines. The terroir is one of the region’s best, and the size of their vineyards permits them to maintain a strict selection, yet it would be a mistake to overlook the fact that it is a focus on quality and the propagation of their oldest vines through massal selection that truly separates them from most producers.

Col D'Orcia's Brunello di Montalcino continues to be one of the best produced throughout the region, with a staying power that has been proven time and again through library releases and vertical tastings. The Poggio al Vento Riserva could be considered Col d’Orcia's crowning achievement of; from its first vintage in 1974 (although under a different name) through today, it remains one of the most age-worthy, yet highly enjoyable wines produced in Montalcino, named for the location of its old vines, Poggio al Vento (or hilltop of the wind). Lastly, it pays to look at their range of IGT Toscana and Sant'Antimo wines, where we find international varieties that take advantage of the same noble terroir as Sangiovese.

Col d'Orcia is one of the few Montalcino estates that manage to make a significant amount of wine, while maintaining very high quality across the board. Perhaps even more impressive is proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano's commitment to biological and sustainable farming, both of which start with the 2013 harvest. This year marks the first release of Col d'Orcia's new Brunello di Montalcino Nastagio, one of the very few 2011 single-vineyard wines that delivers the goods. At press time, it looks like there will be no 2011 Riserva, although a small amount of non-Riserva Poggio al Vento may be bottled.

I was once again deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Col d'Orcia. Under the direction of proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano, Col d'Orcia continues a transition to biodynamic farming that started in 2010, a highly ambitious project, especially considering the sheer scale of the property, Montalcino 's third largest. Winemaker Antonino Tranchida responded to the challenges of 2009, his first here, by relying on lower temperatures during vinification, shorter macerations, fewer pumpovers and less oxygenation than normal, all of which have paid off big time. I also tasted a number of highly promising future Brunellos and Riservas from cask. Readers who haven't tasted the Col d'Orcia wines in a few years are missing out on one of the most dynamic properties in the region.

When all is said and done, Col d'Orcia might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2008 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Col d'Orcia was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit I also tasted a vertical of the estate's Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old.

When all is said and done, Col d'Orcia might have produced not just one of the wines of the 2008 vintage, but possibly two. Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano and his team led by long-time estate manager Edoardo Virano have done a magnificent job with these wines, the Brunellos in particular. Like many estates in this part of the region, Col d'Orcia was hammered by the August 15 hailstorm. Yields were down by a whopping 40%. What the estate lost in production is compensated with the superb quality of the wines. During my visit I also tasted a vertical of the estate's Moscadello, a first for me. In the best vintages, the Moscadello can age two decades, although whether or not the wine improves with bottle age is a matter of personal preference. Mine is to drink the wine either upon release or after it is 20 years old.

This wine was tasted during Aspen Food & Wine Classic in June of 2013

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is soft-spoken and reserved. He is also one of the most driven of Montalcino's large landowners. A quiet, non-publicized conversion to biodynamic farming that has been underway for several years is typical of the way things are done at Col d'Orcia. Cinzano's right-hand man, estate manager Edoardo Virano, has worked at Col d'Orcia since 1977 and has an intimate level of knowledge of the property and its history that is second to none. Col D'Orcia makes a wide range of wines, although it is the Brunelli that stand out most. In a typical vintage the Brunelli can be enjoyed a few years after release, but history continues to teach me that they bloom most fully between ages 20-30. Luckily, the estate has an extensive library of older wines that are re-released with some frequency, which gives consumers the opportunity to taste older vintages with perfect provenance, something I have been able to do on a few occasions.

These are two attractive wines from Col d'Orcia. The 2005 Riserva is powerful and reticent, while the 2004 Riserva Poggio al Vento captures the greater finesse of that vintage. Readers should note that in 2005, the estate did not bottle their flagship, the Riserva Poggio al Vento, but instead opted to bottle a straight Riserva, which is the wine reviewed here.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Count Francesco Marone Cinzano is soft-spoken and reserved. He is also one of the most driven of Montalcino's large landowners. A quiet, non-publicized conversion to biodynamic farming that has been underway for several years is typical of the way things are done at Col d'Orcia. Cinzano's right-hand man, estate manager Edoardo Virano, has worked at Col d'Orcia since 1977 and has an intimate level of knowledge of the property and its history that is second to none. Col D'Orcia makes a wide range of wines, although it is the Brunelli that stand out most. In a typical vintage the Brunelli can be enjoyed a few years after release, but history continues to teach me that they bloom most fully between ages 20-30. Luckily, the estate has an extensive library of older wines that are re-released with some frequency, which gives consumers the opportunity to taste older vintages with perfect provenance, something I have been able to do on a few occasions.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Proprietor Francesco Marone Cinzano makes powerful wines imbued with notable pedigree from his extensive holdings in the southern reaches of Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.

Col d'Orcia is one of Montalcino's most historic wineries. The estate's modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. As early as 1933 Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle presented its Brunelli at the Wine Exhibition of Siena, one of the first trade shows in Italy, decades before Brunello would become a prized, world-class wine. Brothers Leopoldo and Stefano Franceschi inherited the property and subsequently divided their holdings in 1958. The terms of the separation prohibited the brothers from using the existing Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle name. Leopoldo Franceschi christened his estate Il Poggione after the site where his cellar is currently located. Today Franceschi's grand children, Leopoldo and Livia, own Il Poggione. Stefano Franceschi named his farm Col d'Orcia (hill above Orcia) after the river that runs through the property. Stefano Franceschi later married into the royal family of the future King of Spain Juan Carlos. He and his wife had no children, and in 1973 Stefano Franceschi sold his property to the Cinzano family of Piedmont. The Cinzano family was active in the spirits business, and used their extensive sales network to distribute the early vintages of Col d'Orcia. At the time of its purchase by the Cinzanos, Col d'Orcia was planted with a variety of crops, as was common, including wheat, tobacco, olives and grapes. One of the main buildings is in fact the mill of the old Fattoria di Sant'Angelo in Colle. In 1973 there were just a few hectares dedicated to grapes, but planting expanded during this time under the leadership of Count Alberto Marone Cinzano and reached 70 hectares by the early 1980s. In 1992 Marone Cinzano's son Francesco took over and continued to increase plantings to the current level of 140 hectares, of which 108 are Brunello-designated vineyards, making Col d'Orcia the third largest owner of Brunello vineyards in Montalcino. Over the last few years, Francesco Marone Cinzano has overseen a gradual and quiet conversion to biodynamic farming, one example of many quality-driven decisions that separates Col d'Orcia from Montalcino's other large producers. Today Col d'Orcia makes two Brunelli, a straight bottling and the single-vineyard Riserva Poggio al Vento, which emerges from a seven-hectare site with a southwestern exposure that was planted beginning in the mid-1970s through 1990. The soils, which date to the Eocene period, are mostly rich in limestone and skeletal materials, a composition known in Tuscany as ‘albarese.' The first Poggio al Vento was produced in 1982, prior to that a straight Riserva was made from a combination of the estate's vineyards. This article covers every vintage of Poggio al Vento, plus a number of other Col d'Orcia wines I tasted recently. The Col d'Orcia Brunelli are distinguished for their ability to age exceptionally well. Vinification is traditional. The wines are fermented in stainless steel and cement and are aged in Slavonian and French oak casks. The Riserva sees four years in barrel today, although some of the older vintages spent more than 4 years in cask. One of the most fascinating aspects of this tasting was following the evolution of Poggio al Vento through the years. Up until 1993, the harvest always took place in early October. Since then, the harvest has moved up by as much as 3-4 weeks with the exception of 1995, which was also an October harvest. Another evolution was the introduction of French oak as a complement to Slavonian oak and the move to 25 and 50-hectoliter casks from larger 50 to 75-hectoliter casks, both of which were implemented with the 1997 vintage. From 1982 to 2006 there is also noticeable increase in dry extract levels and alcohol, which Marone Cinzano and long-time Estate Manager Edoardo Virano attribute to the change in climate and generally lower yields as the vines have aged. Because of his large production, Marone Cinzano strives for consistency with the straight Brunello, and therefore makes no secret of his use of other vintages to strengthen the final blend of that wine, which is allowed up to 15% under the regulations that govern the production of Brunello di Montalcino.