2012 Clos du Marquis
France
Saint Julien
Bordeaux
Red
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2012
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2024
2028 - 2042
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2024
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2023
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2023
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2022
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2022
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2021
2027 - 2044
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2021
2026 - 2041
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2021
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2021
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News broke during en primeur that Jean-Guillaume Prats will be joining Jean-Hubert Delon. Delon himself was in a meeting during my visit, so I discussed the vintage with current export director, Antoine Gimbert. “It was important to avoid any hollow center,” he explained. “We had to be extremely careful with the balance. The tannic structure was flying quite high, so the Clos du Marquis, Le Petit Lion and Léoville Las-Cases contain around 4% vin de presse this year [lower than other châteaux]. We had to be careful during extraction and so did more of an infusion than extraction. We didn’t need to do any chaptalisation. We feel the 2021 is better than the 2014 and 2017. Maybe it has the structure of the 1988 with elements of the 1999 and 2001. It’s a classic Bordeaux.”
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2020
2027 - 2050
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2020
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2019
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2019
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2019
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2018
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2018
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2017
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2017
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2016
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2016
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2016
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I was quite taken with Jean-Hubert Delon's 2016s, especially on the Left Bank. Potensac, Clos du Marquis and the flagship Léoville Las Cases all made superb wines. The quality of the vintage is evident even in the second wines, which are terrific. Nenin, Delon's Pomerol property, appears to still be a work in progress, but otherwise, this is an impressive set of wines. Potensac is a terrific source for reasonably priced wines that punch above their weight.
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2015
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2015
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Clos du Marquis is owned by the Delon family and emerges from parcels located just west of Léoville-las-Cases. Harvest took place between September 30 and October 13.
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2013
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2013
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2012
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2012
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2011
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2011
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2010
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Also recommended: 2010 Le Petit Lion Saint-Julien (84-86).
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2009
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2009
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2009
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Along with the line-up of wines presented by Domaine Clarence Dillon (Haut-Brion) in Pessac-Leognan, there was no better all-around performance from any estate in '09 than this one. Ultra-talented Jean-Hubert Delon has managed to achieve deep, layered middle palate texture and outstanding length and smoothness in all his wines (including Nenin, Potensac and Clos du Marquis) without any apparent sign of heaviness or excessive tannins. "For once I was happy to see higher alcohol levels than usual," Delon told me. "For with this much concentration, tannin and acidity the wines would have been undrinkable without the balance provided by the extra alcohol. The alcohol allows the wines to be a little flashier and more generous up front." Not that there is so much more alcohol than usual: Leoville is 13.7% instead of its more typical average of 13.2%. The 2009 vintage is also the second time that Le Petit Lion, Leoville-Las Cases's true second wine, was made (the Clos du Marquis is technically another wine made from parcels that were not originally part of the old Leoville estate). "I really needed to make a true second wine," Delon explained, "because I didn't want to keep putting a lot of merlot in the Clos du Marquis, since this would have risked costing it its Saint-Julien typicity."
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2008
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2008
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There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way on my first day. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
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2008
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2008
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2007
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Maussade" (gloomy) was maitre de chai Bruno Rolland's one-word description of the summer of 2007, and yet the results of the vintage are often cheerful and inviting. "We vinified a bit cooler to preserve the fruit, and we liked the press wine, which was charming and impressive," he said. In spite of the sullen weather, proprietor Jean-Hubert Delon noted that there was some hydric stress here during the first half of August (the stressed fruit, he said, eventually went into the estate's second wine, Clos du Marquis). But the cool nights of August led to more refined tannins, Delon added, and many of today's drinkers are going to prefer 2007 to 2006 for this reason. "The 2006 Clos du Marquis and Leoville-Las Cases are drier, tougher, more traditionally styled wines, maybe better for an older generation of claret drinkers." By the way, the 2006 Clos du Marquis is not exactly cheap for a second wine, but it's a major success in the making for this bottling.
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2006
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2006
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Maussade" (gloomy) was maitre de chai Bruno Rolland's one-word description of the summer of 2007, and yet the results of the vintage are often cheerful and inviting. "We vinified a bit cooler to preserve the fruit, and we liked the press wine, which was charming and impressive," he said. In spite of the sullen weather, proprietor Jean-Hubert Delon noted that there was some hydric stress here during the first half of August (the stressed fruit, he said, eventually went into the estate's second wine, Clos du Marquis). But the cool nights of August led to more refined tannins, Delon added, and many of today's drinkers are going to prefer 2007 to 2006 for this reason. "The 2006 Clos du Marquis and Leoville-Las Cases are drier, tougher, more traditionally styled wines, maybe better for an older generation of claret drinkers." By the way, the 2006 Clos du Marquis is not exactly cheap for a second wine, but it's a major success in the making for this bottling.
00
2006
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I got the impression from maitre de chai Bruno Rolland that this chateau was very much aware that its dense and powerful 2005 was inscrutable during primeur week last year. According to Rolland, the fruit that was likely to be selected for the grand vin in '06 went directly into barriques in early December following an early malolactic fermentation, then into "cisterns," where it was blended with the press wine, "which brought fat without dryness." "We gained a month of elevage this way, and today the oak is more thoroughly integrated with the wine." My early tasting of this wine suggests that it is at the level of the Pauillac first growths, which is high praise indeed. Production in 2006 will be lower than that of 2005, due to saignee and reverse osmosis, and the estate's linear, tannic cabernet franc all went into the Clos du Marquis.
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2005
2021 - 2030
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2005
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Maussade" (gloomy) was maitre de chai Bruno Rolland's one-word description of the summer of 2007, and yet the results of the vintage are often cheerful and inviting. "We vinified a bit cooler to preserve the fruit, and we liked the press wine, which was charming and impressive," he said. In spite of the sullen weather, proprietor Jean-Hubert Delon noted that there was some hydric stress here during the first half of August (the stressed fruit, he said, eventually went into the estate's second wine, Clos du Marquis). But the cool nights of August led to more refined tannins, Delon added, and many of today's drinkers are going to prefer 2007 to 2006 for this reason. "The 2006 Clos du Marquis and Leoville-Las Cases are drier, tougher, more traditionally styled wines, maybe better for an older generation of claret drinkers." By the way, the 2006 Clos du Marquis is not exactly cheap for a second wine, but it's a major success in the making for this bottling.
00
2005
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I got the impression from maitre de chai Bruno Rolland that this chateau was very much aware that its dense and powerful 2005 was inscrutable during primeur week last year. According to Rolland, the fruit that was likely to be selected for the grand vin in '06 went directly into barriques in early December following an early malolactic fermentation, then into "cisterns," where it was blended with the press wine, "which brought fat without dryness." "We gained a month of elevage this way, and today the oak is more thoroughly integrated with the wine." My early tasting of this wine suggests that it is at the level of the Pauillac first growths, which is high praise indeed. Production in 2006 will be lower than that of 2005, due to saignee and reverse osmosis, and the estate's linear, tannic cabernet franc all went into the Clos du Marquis.
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2005
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Here's a classic example of a 2005 that must have been difficult to taste in mid-March, if not downright inscrutable. Even in early April, it was a brooding monster, but the superior quality, opulence and vibrancy of the 2005 cabernet sauvignon were plain to see.
00
2004
2024 - 2027
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2004
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I got the impression from maitre de chai Bruno Rolland that this chateau was very much aware that its dense and powerful 2005 was inscrutable during primeur week last year. According to Rolland, the fruit that was likely to be selected for the grand vin in '06 went directly into barriques in early December following an early malolactic fermentation, then into "cisterns," where it was blended with the press wine, "which brought fat without dryness." "We gained a month of elevage this way, and today the oak is more thoroughly integrated with the wine." My early tasting of this wine suggests that it is at the level of the Pauillac first growths, which is high praise indeed. Production in 2006 will be lower than that of 2005, due to saignee and reverse osmosis, and the estate's linear, tannic cabernet franc all went into the Clos du Marquis.
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2004
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Here's a classic example of a 2005 that must have been difficult to taste in mid-March, if not downright inscrutable. Even in early April, it was a brooding monster, but the superior quality, opulence and vibrancy of the 2005 cabernet sauvignon were plain to see.
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2004
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Jean-Hubert Delon noted that it was important to green-harvest in mid-July, rather than wait until August, by which time the vines had wasted too much energy on the heavy crop load. Delon told me he did gentler pumpovers in 2004 and a shorter, cooler cuvaison in general than in the two previous years in order to preserve fruit. The 2004 represents a strict 34% selection of the estate's production, compared to 54% in 2003.
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2003
2023 - 2033
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2003
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Here's a classic example of a 2005 that must have been difficult to taste in mid-March, if not downright inscrutable. Even in early April, it was a brooding monster, but the superior quality, opulence and vibrancy of the 2005 cabernet sauvignon were plain to see.
00
2003
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Jean-Hubert Delon noted that it was important to green-harvest in mid-July, rather than wait until August, by which time the vines had wasted too much energy on the heavy crop load. Delon told me he did gentler pumpovers in 2004 and a shorter, cooler cuvaison in general than in the two previous years in order to preserve fruit. The 2004 represents a strict 34% selection of the estate's production, compared to 54% in 2003.
00
2003
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Not surprisingly in light of the success of the Northern Medoc in 2003, this chateau has once again produced one of the wines of the vintage. The yield here was just 21.2 hectoliters per hectare, according to estate manager Jacques Depoizier, and the grand vin represents a selection of just 54% of the estate's fruit. Depoizier noted that the wine's oak is masking its fat today. "In fact," he told me, "the 2003 will probably close down after the bottling. But we said that about the '96 too, and the '96 is not terribly closed today. We may bottle the '03 later than usual; it appears to need a longer elevage Depoizier described the conditions of 2003 as "a green dryness: the vines didn't lack for water."
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2002
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Jean-Hubert Delon noted that it was important to green-harvest in mid-July, rather than wait until August, by which time the vines had wasted too much energy on the heavy crop load. Delon told me he did gentler pumpovers in 2004 and a shorter, cooler cuvaison in general than in the two previous years in order to preserve fruit. The 2004 represents a strict 34% selection of the estate's production, compared to 54% in 2003.
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2002
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Not surprisingly in light of the success of the Northern Medoc in 2003, this chateau has once again produced one of the wines of the vintage. The yield here was just 21.2 hectoliters per hectare, according to estate manager Jacques Depoizier, and the grand vin represents a selection of just 54% of the estate's fruit. Depoizier noted that the wine's oak is masking its fat today. "In fact," he told me, "the 2003 will probably close down after the bottling. But we said that about the '96 too, and the '96 is not terribly closed today. We may bottle the '03 later than usual; it appears to need a longer elevage Depoizier described the conditions of 2003 as "a green dryness: the vines didn't lack for water."
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2002
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Here's another shockingly ripe 2002, with 13.5% natural alcohol. Only in vintages 1986, 1989 and 1990 did Leoville-Las Cases surpass 13%, said Jean-Hubert Delon. With the severe coulure during the flowering and the hydric stress in the heat of summer, there were similarities to the 1961 vintage, noted Delon. This was one of the most impressive young wines of the vintage, with the Clos du Marquis also a notable success in 2002.
00
2001
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Not surprisingly in light of the success of the Northern Medoc in 2003, this chateau has once again produced one of the wines of the vintage. The yield here was just 21.2 hectoliters per hectare, according to estate manager Jacques Depoizier, and the grand vin represents a selection of just 54% of the estate's fruit. Depoizier noted that the wine's oak is masking its fat today. "In fact," he told me, "the 2003 will probably close down after the bottling. But we said that about the '96 too, and the '96 is not terribly closed today. We may bottle the '03 later than usual; it appears to need a longer elevage Depoizier described the conditions of 2003 as "a green dryness: the vines didn't lack for water."
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2001
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Here's another shockingly ripe 2002, with 13.5% natural alcohol. Only in vintages 1986, 1989 and 1990 did Leoville-Las Cases surpass 13%, said Jean-Hubert Delon. With the severe coulure during the flowering and the hydric stress in the heat of summer, there were similarities to the 1961 vintage, noted Delon. This was one of the most impressive young wines of the vintage, with the Clos du Marquis also a notable success in 2002.
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2001
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The grape sugars barely budged during the very cool, dry first half of September, allowing a nice slow ripening of the tannins, noted Jean-Hubert Delon. Ultimately, potential alcohol levels reached roughly the same level as in the previous year, requiring very little saignee or osmose inverse, and measurable tannins were actually a hair higher in 2001 than in 2000. Actually, Delon maintains, the grapes in 2000 were more fragile than those of 2001. The crop level in 2001 was just 32 hectoliters per hectare, and only 40% of the fruit will be used for the grand vin The 2000 is more massive and monolithic, but the '01 is finer and perhaps equally long.
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2000
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Here's another shockingly ripe 2002, with 13.5% natural alcohol. Only in vintages 1986, 1989 and 1990 did Leoville-Las Cases surpass 13%, said Jean-Hubert Delon. With the severe coulure during the flowering and the hydric stress in the heat of summer, there were similarities to the 1961 vintage, noted Delon. This was one of the most impressive young wines of the vintage, with the Clos du Marquis also a notable success in 2002.
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2000
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The grape sugars barely budged during the very cool, dry first half of September, allowing a nice slow ripening of the tannins, noted Jean-Hubert Delon. Ultimately, potential alcohol levels reached roughly the same level as in the previous year, requiring very little saignee or osmose inverse, and measurable tannins were actually a hair higher in 2001 than in 2000. Actually, Delon maintains, the grapes in 2000 were more fragile than those of 2001. The crop level in 2001 was just 32 hectoliters per hectare, and only 40% of the fruit will be used for the grand vin The 2000 is more massive and monolithic, but the '01 is finer and perhaps equally long.
00
2000
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"The summer was difficult but the fruit ripened well at the last moment," said Jean-Hubert Delon. "In fact, the estate old cabernet vines surpassed 13% for the first time, and the cabernet overall was riper than that of 1996." Polyphenol levels were the highest ever recorded at Leoville-Las Cases. Very little reverse osmosis was needed.
00
1999
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The grape sugars barely budged during the very cool, dry first half of September, allowing a nice slow ripening of the tannins, noted Jean-Hubert Delon. Ultimately, potential alcohol levels reached roughly the same level as in the previous year, requiring very little saignee or osmose inverse, and measurable tannins were actually a hair higher in 2001 than in 2000. Actually, Delon maintains, the grapes in 2000 were more fragile than those of 2001. The crop level in 2001 was just 32 hectoliters per hectare, and only 40% of the fruit will be used for the grand vin The 2000 is more massive and monolithic, but the '01 is finer and perhaps equally long.
00
1999
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"The summer was difficult but the fruit ripened well at the last moment," said Jean-Hubert Delon. "In fact, the estate old cabernet vines surpassed 13% for the first time, and the cabernet overall was riper than that of 1996." Polyphenol levels were the highest ever recorded at Leoville-Las Cases. Very little reverse osmosis was needed.
00
1999
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The '99 harvest here featured a huge crop that required drastic eclaircissage, said Jean-Hubert Delon. Still, says Delon, there was less dilution here than on the water-retentive clay soils of St. Estephe and Pauillac. Las Cases carried out less osmose inverse than might be expected following a wet harvest due to the high grape sugars (the alcohol levels would have gone too high): the cabernet sauvignon was picked at the beginning of October with potential alcohol of 12.3%. The grand vin features a particularly severe 32% selection of the estate's best fruit and will age in just 50% new oak, down from 75% in '96 and 65% in '98. As always, this will be one of the top wines of the Medoc, although it remains to be seen if it will equal the tighter '98. Delon, for his part, believes the '99 is currently hiding its power and backbone.
00
1998
2018 - 2024
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00
1998
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"The summer was difficult but the fruit ripened well at the last moment," said Jean-Hubert Delon. "In fact, the estate old cabernet vines surpassed 13% for the first time, and the cabernet overall was riper than that of 1996." Polyphenol levels were the highest ever recorded at Leoville-Las Cases. Very little reverse osmosis was needed.
00
1998
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The '99 harvest here featured a huge crop that required drastic eclaircissage, said Jean-Hubert Delon. Still, says Delon, there was less dilution here than on the water-retentive clay soils of St. Estephe and Pauillac. Las Cases carried out less osmose inverse than might be expected following a wet harvest due to the high grape sugars (the alcohol levels would have gone too high): the cabernet sauvignon was picked at the beginning of October with potential alcohol of 12.3%. The grand vin features a particularly severe 32% selection of the estate's best fruit and will age in just 50% new oak, down from 75% in '96 and 65% in '98. As always, this will be one of the top wines of the Medoc, although it remains to be seen if it will equal the tighter '98. Delon, for his part, believes the '99 is currently hiding its power and backbone.
00
1998
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Reverse osmosis was necessary in '98, said Michel Delon, as nearly 200 millimeters of rain fell during the harvest, which extended from September 23 through October 12 here. There an early austerity to the '98 Las Cases that has Delon describing this vintage as Pauillac in style; 1996, in comparison, is more classic St. Julien. Delon compares '98 to '94, another year that featured harvest-time rain and some not-quite-ripe tannins. But the tannins in '98 are a bit more successfully elaborated, he notes. Incidentally, Delon has been slowly reducing the percentage of new barrels used to make Leoville-Las Cases, down to 75% in '96 and 65% in '98.
00
1997
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The '99 harvest here featured a huge crop that required drastic eclaircissage, said Jean-Hubert Delon. Still, says Delon, there was less dilution here than on the water-retentive clay soils of St. Estephe and Pauillac. Las Cases carried out less osmose inverse than might be expected following a wet harvest due to the high grape sugars (the alcohol levels would have gone too high): the cabernet sauvignon was picked at the beginning of October with potential alcohol of 12.3%. The grand vin features a particularly severe 32% selection of the estate's best fruit and will age in just 50% new oak, down from 75% in '96 and 65% in '98. As always, this will be one of the top wines of the Medoc, although it remains to be seen if it will equal the tighter '98. Delon, for his part, believes the '99 is currently hiding its power and backbone.
00
1997
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Reverse osmosis was necessary in '98, said Michel Delon, as nearly 200 millimeters of rain fell during the harvest, which extended from September 23 through October 12 here. There an early austerity to the '98 Las Cases that has Delon describing this vintage as Pauillac in style; 1996, in comparison, is more classic St. Julien. Delon compares '98 to '94, another year that featured harvest-time rain and some not-quite-ripe tannins. But the tannins in '98 are a bit more successfully elaborated, he notes. Incidentally, Delon has been slowly reducing the percentage of new barrels used to make Leoville-Las Cases, down to 75% in '96 and 65% in '98.
00
1997
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Michel Delon has managed to make one of the few outstanding wines of the Medoc in 1997, in part by doing a ruthless reduction of his crop: a vendange verte in July and substantial eclaircissage, or crop thinning, until the end of August, followed by the declassification of 60% of the remaining crop into his second and third wines. The '97 Leoville-Las Cases has terrific depth and structure for the year and appears destined for a fairly slow evolution in bottle. Fans of this estate wines may be interested in Delon's current assessment of recent vintages here: Delon ranks the '96 as his greatest vintage to date. One step down is the 1986, followed by the '90 and '82.
00
1996
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Reverse osmosis was necessary in '98, said Michel Delon, as nearly 200 millimeters of rain fell during the harvest, which extended from September 23 through October 12 here. There an early austerity to the '98 Las Cases that has Delon describing this vintage as Pauillac in style; 1996, in comparison, is more classic St. Julien. Delon compares '98 to '94, another year that featured harvest-time rain and some not-quite-ripe tannins. But the tannins in '98 are a bit more successfully elaborated, he notes. Incidentally, Delon has been slowly reducing the percentage of new barrels used to make Leoville-Las Cases, down to 75% in '96 and 65% in '98.
00
1996
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Michel Delon has managed to make one of the few outstanding wines of the Medoc in 1997, in part by doing a ruthless reduction of his crop: a vendange verte in July and substantial eclaircissage, or crop thinning, until the end of August, followed by the declassification of 60% of the remaining crop into his second and third wines. The '97 Leoville-Las Cases has terrific depth and structure for the year and appears destined for a fairly slow evolution in bottle. Fans of this estate wines may be interested in Delon's current assessment of recent vintages here: Delon ranks the '96 as his greatest vintage to date. One step down is the 1986, followed by the '90 and '82.
00
1995
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Michel Delon has managed to make one of the few outstanding wines of the Medoc in 1997, in part by doing a ruthless reduction of his crop: a vendange verte in July and substantial eclaircissage, or crop thinning, until the end of August, followed by the declassification of 60% of the remaining crop into his second and third wines. The '97 Leoville-Las Cases has terrific depth and structure for the year and appears destined for a fairly slow evolution in bottle. Fans of this estate wines may be interested in Delon's current assessment of recent vintages here: Delon ranks the '96 as his greatest vintage to date. One step down is the 1986, followed by the '90 and '82.
00
1994
2024 - 2030
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1982
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