2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

This historic domaine’s 40 hectares of organically farmed vines suffered mightily from the mildew of late spring 2018. Vincent Avril told me that they lost almost 70% of their typical yield, harvesting a mere 9 hL/ha after all of the sorting in the vineyard was completed. This, sadly, was a continuation of a losing streak for crops here, as yields were only 15 hL/ha (about 40% off of normal) in 2017, following a healthy, even abundant (for this estate) 25 hl/ha in 2016. The good news for 2017 is that the Mourvèdre, which is a big player at the domaine, according to Vincent, “was amazing, as good as we have seen in years.” Speaking of selection, Vincent likes to point out that “there is no second wine made here and we don’t sell off grapes, juice or wine, so our decision has to be made in the vines, not at a sorting table later. If it’s not high quality fruit it goes on the ground, not to be taken out at the winery.”

This historic domaine’s 40 hectares of organically farmed vines suffered mightily from the mildew of late spring 2018. Vincent Avril told me that they lost almost 70% of their typical yield, harvesting a mere 9 hL/ha after all of the sorting in the vineyard was completed. This, sadly, was a continuation of a losing streak for crops here, as yields were only 15 hL/ha (about 40% off of normal) in 2017, following a healthy, even abundant (for this estate) 25 hl/ha in 2016. The good news for 2017 is that the Mourvèdre, which is a big player at the domaine, according to Vincent, “was amazing, as good as we have seen in years.” Speaking of selection, Vincent likes to point out that “there is no second wine made here and we don’t sell off grapes, juice or wine, so our decision has to be made in the vines, not at a sorting table later. If it’s not high quality fruit it goes on the ground, not to be taken out at the winery.”

This historic domaine’s 40 hectares of organically farmed vines suffered mightily from the mildew of late spring 2018. Vincent Avril told me that they lost almost 70% of their typical yield, harvesting a mere 9 hL/ha after all of the sorting in the vineyard was completed. This, sadly, was a continuation of a losing streak for crops here, as yields were only 15 hL/ha (about 40% off of normal) in 2017, following a healthy, even abundant (for this estate) 25 hl/ha in 2016. The good news for 2017 is that the Mourvèdre, which is a big player at the domaine, according to Vincent, “was amazing, as good as we have seen in years.” Speaking of selection, Vincent likes to point out that “there is no second wine made here and we don’t sell off grapes, juice or wine, so our decision has to be made in the vines, not at a sorting table later. If it’s not high quality fruit it goes on the ground, not to be taken out at the winery.”

The 2016 here is a larger-scale wine than Vincent Avril typically makes, but it’s also extremely energetic, with the bones to ensure a long, positive aging curve. Avril compared it to his 2009, “but there’s also the structure of 2010,” referencing two recent vintages that he called “among the greats.” The high percentage of non-Grenache varieties planted in Clos des Papes’ 24 parcels, which comprise 35 hectares, has ensured that production has been less adversely affected than at more Grenache-dependent properties, but yields here have never been high, Avril pointed out. The 2016 harvest gave up 25 hectoliters of fruit per hectare, extremely low by the appellation’s regulations, which allow 35 hl/ha, and that, by the way, is very low by the country’s overall standards.

Vincent Avril is fond of pointing out that since Clos des Papes is one of the few domains in the appellation that produces a single red bottling of Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Vieux Donjon and Mont-Redon are others that comes to mind), his wine can be looked at as “a regular bottling and a reserve rolled into one” but he really prefers to look at it as a reserve “because the yields are so low”. By low Avril means a yield of less than 20 hectoliters per hectare in most recent vintages, only 18 hl/ha in 2015, 15 hl/ha in 2014 and a ridiculously low 12 hl/ha in 2013. “So it has been going up,” he quipped, with a good dose of irony. Contrast that with the legally allowed crop of 35 hl/ha and it justifies Avril’s assertion that his Châteauneuf really does deserve to be compared to other estate’s luxury bottlings and justifies his prices. There’s no question that the quality of Avril’s 2015 is one of the stars of the vintage; it’s a wine that bears comparison to the many superb wines made at this storied domain, which encompasses 35 hectares of vines spread across 25 parcels in the appellation.

If there was ever a vintage that made him grateful that his grandfather and father went long on Mourvèdre, Vincent Avril told me, 2013 was it. Even with the domain's extensive plantings of non-Grenache varieties the yield here in '13 was only about a ton per acre, he added, which means that this will be a far tougher wine to find than usual. Not that production has been booming here in recent vintages anyway. As Avril pointed out, his total production over the last six years is roughly equal to what he'd normally produce in four vintages, "which means that it hasn't been an easy time from a financial standpoint." But we've enjoyed a great and "pretty unprecedented" run of solid to fantastic vintages, he went on, adding that he worries that the generally warmer weather is pushing Grenache to its limit, ripeness-wise. The cautionary tale, he said, is that "the older generations were correct not to rely solely on one variety, Grenache, so those who have the full range of varieties planted have been able to compensate for all the ripeness that that grape always gives anyway."

If there was ever a vintage that made him grateful that his grandfather and father went long on Mourvèdre, Vincent Avril told me, 2013 was it. Even with the domain's extensive plantings of non-Grenache varieties the yield here in '13 was only about a ton per acre, he added, which means that this will be a far tougher wine to find than usual. Not that production has been booming here in recent vintages anyway. As Avril pointed out, his total production over the last six years is roughly equal to what he'd normally produce in four vintages, "which means that it hasn't been an easy time from a financial standpoint." But we've enjoyed a great and "pretty unprecedented" run of solid to fantastic vintages, he went on, adding that he worries that the generally warmer weather is pushing Grenache to its limit, ripeness-wise. The cautionary tale, he said, is that "the older generations were correct not to rely solely on one variety, Grenache, so those who have the full range of varieties planted have been able to compensate for all the ripeness that that grape always gives anyway."

Yields in recent vintages have been "historically terrible" at this historic property, Paul Avril told me in November."In terms of production," he said, "we have basically made four vintages out of the last six, including 2013," pointing out that production in 2011 barely hit 18 hectoliters per hectare and that he had his team drop almost a third of the potential crop during the summer.Avril is fond of pointing out that he has never sold fruit or wine to the negoce and that he has never made a second wine or a super single-site or old-vines bottling either."All of the fruit that's left after selection in the vineyard and at the sorting tables goes into the one Clos des Papes," he said, adding that "it's for all intents, in a typical year, a 70,000-bottle special cuvee because it's a selection of a selection of a selection."He compares his 2012 Chateauneuf to his 2005 "because of its elegance" but also sees elements of his 2010 "because of its structure."He has no doubt that it will age gracefully, by the way.At the end of our tasting Avril opened his 2010, which is starting to close down as "the tannins are coming forward now."We also tasted his 2008, a wine (and vintage) that he thinks is going to surprise people.There's 30% mourvedre in the '08, he told me, "which is going to help it hold up far better than a lot of people expect."I found it to be quite complex already, with smoky, mineral-tinged red fruit character, good spicy cut and a long, focused finish.It can be drunk now but I'd bet on another three to five years of positive development.

Paul Avril told me that he sees 2011 as "a cross of 2008 and 2007" and said that the best wines are appealingly vibrant, "which will appeal to Burgundy drinkers"; they can also surprise people with their depth.Yields in '11 here were a mere 19 hl/ha, from 24 different parcels, and the final wine should clock in at 15.5% alcohol, which is nobody's--or at least no sane person's--idea of a wimpy wine.He compares his own 2011 to his 1999 and thinks that it will age well thanks to "very good phenolics and structure and a high percentage of mourvedre in the blend."Avril believes that his 2010 "will be closing up soon, maybe even by this coming spring" and he hopes that buyers of the wine "won't be tempted to open it just yet because all they'll see is potential, if they're lucky."He opened his 2008 for me; it's in a very nice place right now, if still youthful, with intense red fruit and floral pastille character and very soft tannins.I'll be surprised if it ever really closes back up, or if it will be an especially long ager, for that matter.The 1999, which Avril showed me as well, is a smoky, deeply pitched wine that's showing its substantial mourvedre component at the moment but its tannins are slowly melting away and the wine drinks quite well right now.Avril lamented the fact that many collectors own so much wine that bottles in their collection may not be drunk at their peak, or, worse, when they're on the downslope."We make it to drink, not to look at or bury", he said.

Paul Avril told me that he sees 2011 as "a cross of 2008 and 2007" and said that the best wines are appealingly vibrant, "which will appeal to Burgundy drinkers"; they can also surprise people with their depth.Yields in '11 here were a mere 19 hl/ha, from 24 different parcels, and the final wine should clock in at 15.5% alcohol, which is nobody's--or at least no sane person's--idea of a wimpy wine.He compares his own 2011 to his 1999 and thinks that it will age well thanks to "very good phenolics and structure and a high percentage of mourvedre in the blend."Avril believes that his 2010 "will be closing up soon, maybe even by this coming spring" and he hopes that buyers of the wine "won't be tempted to open it just yet because all they'll see is potential, if they're lucky."He opened his 2008 for me; it's in a very nice place right now, if still youthful, with intense red fruit and floral pastille character and very soft tannins.I'll be surprised if it ever really closes back up, or if it will be an especially long ager, for that matter.The 1999, which Avril showed me as well, is a smoky, deeply pitched wine that's showing its substantial mourvedre component at the moment but its tannins are slowly melting away and the wine drinks quite well right now.Avril lamented the fact that many collectors own so much wine that bottles in their collection may not be drunk at their peak, or, worse, when they're on the downslope."We make it to drink, not to look at or bury", he said.

Vincent Avril views 2010 as a pretty unique vintage "because it combines the best attributes of two other great recent years: 2007 and 2005. There's the richness of '07, with the backbone and structure of '05." He also thinks that there's a bit of 1990 character in the 2010s but with more freshness and energy. Avril tole me that he thinks that the 2009s are mostly open and enjoyable right now but that they'll be closing up soon. "It's probably best to let them rest for at least another five years now, otherwise you won't see their quality," he explained. The discussion of yields came up during our tasting and he lamented the fact that quantities in recent years have been way off, "almost ridiculously so. We got 18 hectoliteres per hectare in 2008 and 19 in '09, then about the same for 2010." He pointed out that because of the severe crop-thinning practiced here throughout the year "we never have fruit to sell off and we will never make a second wine." And he was quick to point out that people who are critical of prices here should consider the fact that yields at Clos des Papes are almost always just over half of what is allowed for the appellation and always among the lowest in the area regardless of the year. "Clos des Papes should be looked at as a tete de cuvee bottling," he told me, adding that plenty of super-cuvee Chateauneufs are made from younger vines, higher yields and less-favored vineyards than his single bottling.

Vincent Avril views 2010 as a pretty unique vintage "because it combines the best attributes of two other great recent years: 2007 and 2005. There's the richness of '07, with the backbone and structure of '05." He also thinks that there's a bit of 1990 character in the 2010s but with more freshness and energy. Avril tole me that he thinks that the 2009s are mostly open and enjoyable right now but that they'll be closing up soon. "It's probably best to let them rest for at least another five years now, otherwise you won't see their quality," he explained. The discussion of yields came up during our tasting and he lamented the fact that quantities in recent years have been way off, "almost ridiculously so. We got 18 hectoliteres per hectare in 2008 and 19 in '09, then about the same for 2010." He pointed out that because of the severe crop-thinning practiced here throughout the year "we never have fruit to sell off and we will never make a second wine." And he was quick to point out that people who are critical of prices here should consider the fact that yields at Clos des Papes are almost always just over half of what is allowed for the appellation and always among the lowest in the area regardless of the year. "Clos des Papes should be looked at as a tete de cuvee bottling," he told me, adding that plenty of super-cuvee Chateauneufs are made from younger vines, higher yields and less-favored vineyards than his single bottling.

Production at the Avrils' estate has been off pretty severely the last three vintages, Vincent Avril told me in November. "In 2010, 2009 and 2008, yields were below 20 hectoliters per hectare," he said, "which is low even for us, with old vines and our regimen of crop-thinning." He was pleased with the extended growing season that '09 provided "because with 35 hectares spread across 24 parcels it isn't good if we have to rush things." Avril is satisfied with his '08 and believes that people are shortchanging the vintage. "Because of its balance, our '08 will be able to age for at least 15 years, probably longer. It will probably be at its peak at about age 10." He added that 2007 is not a year for impatient collectors, who he says should be focused on 2004, 2006 and 2008. As for 2009, Vincent thinks it "is a very good but not great year that will be showing complexity early. Our wine had a very long and slow fermentation so the aromatics are quite pronounced. And because of the low yield [just under 19 hectoliters per hectare] there's good power as well." For a bit of perspective, I asked him what he considered the most recent classic vintage for Chateauneuf du Pape and he named 2000 "because everything is in place and in harmony: rich but not too ripe, fresh but not too acidic, structured but not too tannic. Just balanced." Since 1991 all of the grapes here have been destemmed; the Avrils stopped filtering their wines after 1987.

Production at the Avrils' estate has been off pretty severely the last three vintages, Vincent Avril told me in November. "In 2010, 2009 and 2008, yields were below 20 hectoliters per hectare," he said, "which is low even for us, with old vines and our regimen of crop-thinning." He was pleased with the extended growing season that '09 provided "because with 35 hectares spread across 24 parcels it isn't good if we have to rush things." Avril is satisfied with his '08 and believes that people are shortchanging the vintage. "Because of its balance, our '08 will be able to age for at least 15 years, probably longer. It will probably be at its peak at about age 10." He added that 2007 is not a year for impatient collectors, who he says should be focused on 2004, 2006 and 2008. As for 2009, Vincent thinks it "is a very good but not great year that will be showing complexity early. Our wine had a very long and slow fermentation so the aromatics are quite pronounced. And because of the low yield [just under 19 hectoliters per hectare] there's good power as well." For a bit of perspective, I asked him what he considered the most recent classic vintage for Chateauneuf du Pape and he named 2000 "because everything is in place and in harmony: rich but not too ripe, fresh but not too acidic, structured but not too tannic. Just balanced." Since 1991 all of the grapes here have been destemmed; the Avrils stopped filtering their wines after 1987.

Vincent Avril told me that his yields in 2007 were 23 hectoliters per hectare; he's relieved he even got that much because in 2008 it was more like 17. "The 2007s are extremely appealing," he told me, "and you could almost drink them right now. They're rich, with lots of kirsch and licorice, but most of them aren't dominated by alcohol. This is the southern limit for syrah and the northern limit for mourvedre," he reminded me, adding that he relishes the challenge of blending those varieties with the "classic" grapes of Chateauneuf. "The blending is the best part," he added, "especially in the last decade, when we've had an almost perfect run of vintages, with exceptional fruit. "

Vincent Avril told me that his yields in 2007 were 23 hectoliters per hectare; he's relieved he even got that much because in 2008 it was more like 17. "The 2007s are extremely appealing," he told me, "and you could almost drink them right now. They're rich, with lots of kirsch and licorice, but most of them aren't dominated by alcohol. This is the southern limit for syrah and the northern limit for mourvedre," he reminded me, adding that he relishes the challenge of blending those varieties with the "classic" grapes of Chateauneuf. "The blending is the best part," he added, "especially in the last decade, when we've had an almost perfect run of vintages, with exceptional fruit. "

"Two thousand six will be noted for its freshness," Vincent Avril told me. "The pHs are excellent and the yield was quite low, about 21 hectoliters per hectare for us. But I am very strict in my pruning and always do a green harvest at the end of July. Then we use a table de trie at harvest, which brings our production down even further." The Avrils employ 40 pickers to cover 35 hectares of vines, with the objective, according to Vincent, "of spreading the harvest out as much as possible to get more variety and to have more components to work with." Avril tries to avoid new wood as much as possible: "We already have plenty of tannins here, and we don't need to add ones from wood. Maybe it's my Burgundy schooling but I really want to get as much finesse as possible, and in Chateauneuf ripeness isn't an issue." He fears that some people serve his wines too cold, by the way, noting that the tannins can be hard if the wine is any colder than 63 or 64 degrees.

"Two thousand six will be noted for its freshness," Vincent Avril told me. "The pHs are excellent and the yield was quite low, about 21 hectoliters per hectare for us. But I am very strict in my pruning and always do a green harvest at the end of July. Then we use a table de trie at harvest, which brings our production down even further." The Avrils employ 40 pickers to cover 35 hectares of vines, with the objective, according to Vincent, "of spreading the harvest out as much as possible to get more variety and to have more components to work with." Avril tries to avoid new wood as much as possible: "We already have plenty of tannins here, and we don't need to add ones from wood. Maybe it's my Burgundy schooling but I really want to get as much finesse as possible, and in Chateauneuf ripeness isn't an issue." He fears that some people serve his wines too cold, by the way, noting that the tannins can be hard if the wine is any colder than 63 or 64 degrees.

Construction on a new bottle room and apartment for Vincent Avril was in full swing when I visited in mid-November, the result of a complete collapse of that wing of the chai in early April of '06. Three thousand bottles were lost, all from the 2003, 2001, 2000 and 1999 vintages. (American fans will console themselves with the fact that many of those bottles were filled with white wine. )Avril adamantly professed his belief in keeping the carbonic gas instead of using sulfur. "Besides, racking tires the wine," he said. Elevage here is exclusively in large, mostly old foudres, "because I really don't like oak tannins. "Speaking of the 2005 vintage, Avril ventured the opinion that it's like 1990, but with better acidity.

Construction on a new bottle room and apartment for Vincent Avril was in full swing when I visited in mid-November, the result of a complete collapse of that wing of the chai in early April of '06. Three thousand bottles were lost, all from the 2003, 2001, 2000 and 1999 vintages. (American fans will console themselves with the fact that many of those bottles were filled with white wine. )Avril adamantly professed his belief in keeping the carbonic gas instead of using sulfur. "Besides, racking tires the wine," he said. Elevage here is exclusively in large, mostly old foudres, "because I really don't like oak tannins. "Speaking of the 2005 vintage, Avril ventured the opinion that it's like 1990, but with better acidity.

Vincent Avril showed me his 2004 from four different foudres, each a different blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre, before presenting me with an approximation of the final wine.The point he was trying to make was that mourvedre is the key to the pure, floral character of Clos des Papes.Old vines also come into play here, as the average vine age is more than 50 years.Avril was trained at wine school in Dijon, as was his father, and the specter of Burgundy is strongly in evidence here."We have richness, power and the ability to age in Chateauneuf-plenty of tannins and lots of structure-but the challenge is always to get balance."Avril seeks to maintain freshness, purity and exuberance in his wines.He also admits that Clos des Papes can be a tricky wine in its youth."It's impossible to make a wine for aging that also is good to drink young," he explained.

Vincent Avril showed me his 2004 from four different foudres, each a different blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre, before presenting me with an approximation of the final wine.The point he was trying to make was that mourvedre is the key to the pure, floral character of Clos des Papes.Old vines also come into play here, as the average vine age is more than 50 years.Avril was trained at wine school in Dijon, as was his father, and the specter of Burgundy is strongly in evidence here."We have richness, power and the ability to age in Chateauneuf-plenty of tannins and lots of structure-but the challenge is always to get balance."Avril seeks to maintain freshness, purity and exuberance in his wines.He also admits that Clos des Papes can be a tricky wine in its youth."It's impossible to make a wine for aging that also is good to drink young," he explained.

Vincent Avril told me the yield here was barely 25x000D hectoliters per hectare in 2001 (compared to 29 in 2000). He compares the young '01 to the estate'sx000D outstanding '95, and describes the 2000 as more massive and powerful, more inx000D the style of the 1990. I tasted thex000D 2001 vintage from two very different foudres, then an approximation of thex000D final blend.

Vincent Avril told me the yield here was barely 25x000D hectoliters per hectare in 2001 (compared to 29 in 2000). He compares the young '01 to the estate'sx000D outstanding '95, and describes the 2000 as more massive and powerful, more inx000D the style of the 1990. I tasted thex000D 2001 vintage from two very different foudres, then an approximation of thex000D final blend.

The moderate rain that fell on August 30 of 2000, according to Vincent Avril, was a welcome relief to the thirsty vines on the south side of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, which had suffered from heat and drought through most of that month. The Avrils started the harvest on September 12 with syrah. The next important rain fell on September 20, but Chateauneuf dodged potential disaster: just 25 millimeters (or about one inch) of rain fell, but Marseilles and Montpellier not far to the south and west were flooded with nearly 8 inches of precipitation. The Mistral took hold the following day, and the grapes quickly dried and began to shrink. Vincent Avril describes this highly promising vintage as beween 1990 and 1995 in style: that is, with almost the material of '90 but a bit less acidity than '95. Like 1998, 2000 brought a large crop, which for Clos des Papes means a scant 30 hectoliters per hectare.

The moderate rain that fell on August 30 of 2000, according to Vincent Avril, was a welcome relief to the thirsty vines on the south side of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation, which had suffered from heat and drought through most of that month. The Avrils started the harvest on September 12 with syrah. The next important rain fell on September 20, but Chateauneuf dodged potential disaster: just 25 millimeters (or about one inch) of rain fell, but Marseilles and Montpellier not far to the south and west were flooded with nearly 8 inches of precipitation. The Mistral took hold the following day, and the grapes quickly dried and began to shrink. Vincent Avril describes this highly promising vintage as beween 1990 and 1995 in style: that is, with almost the material of '90 but a bit less acidity than '95. Like 1998, 2000 brought a large crop, which for Clos des Papes means a scant 30 hectoliters per hectare.

Paul and Vincent Avril produced just 27 hectoliters per hectare in 1999, after eliminating fruit on three different occasions: in August, at the harvest, and as the fruit was brought into the cellar. The harvest was done in two major installments: the estate began on September 14, then stopped for a week after the big rainstorm on September 19, ultimately finishing on October 6. Clos des Papes is typically made with about 30% mourvedre and syrah, and Vincent Avril noted that these varieties did very well in '99. "The trick is to get a thoroughly ripe but balanced wine at 14%, not one that too alcoholic," he told me. Clos des Papes is an especially food-friendly style of Chateauneuf; the Avrils make a point of picking before they get aromas of surmaturite Vincent Avril compares the '99 to the estate's '95-perhaps a bit lower in acidity but with riper tannins.

Paul and Vincent Avril produced just 27 hectoliters per hectare in 1999, after eliminating fruit on three different occasions: in August, at the harvest, and as the fruit was brought into the cellar. The harvest was done in two major installments: the estate began on September 14, then stopped for a week after the big rainstorm on September 19, ultimately finishing on October 6. Clos des Papes is typically made with about 30% mourvedre and syrah, and Vincent Avril noted that these varieties did very well in '99. "The trick is to get a thoroughly ripe but balanced wine at 14%, not one that too alcoholic," he told me. Clos des Papes is an especially food-friendly style of Chateauneuf; the Avrils make a point of picking before they get aromas of surmaturite Vincent Avril compares the '99 to the estate's '95-perhaps a bit lower in acidity but with riper tannins.

The Avrils describe '98 as "un annee puissant" with more similarity to '95 than to '90 owing to sound acidity. Yes, the grenache was superb in '98, says Vincent Avril, but the key to the wine may well be the high quality and spicy character of the mourvedre. At 14.5%, there was not really surmaturite in '98, adds Avril, and that's why the pH is healthy. The Avrils were concerned that their '98 has been underrated by early tasters. "The Chateauneufs that are true blends really can't be tasted early, especially when there's a strong mourvedre component [20% here, along with 10% syrah and 5% counoise, muscardin and vaccarese]," Vincent told me. The entire winemaking facility at Clos des Papes has been climatized in the past year, with the temperature now maintained at a constant 55oF; previously it ranged from as low as 44o in winter to as high as 68o in summer.

The Avrils describe '98 as "un annee puissant" with more similarity to '95 than to '90 owing to sound acidity. Yes, the grenache was superb in '98, says Vincent Avril, but the key to the wine may well be the high quality and spicy character of the mourvedre. At 14.5%, there was not really surmaturite in '98, adds Avril, and that's why the pH is healthy. The Avrils were concerned that their '98 has been underrated by early tasters. "The Chateauneufs that are true blends really can't be tasted early, especially when there's a strong mourvedre component [20% here, along with 10% syrah and 5% counoise, muscardin and vaccarese]," Vincent told me. The entire winemaking facility at Clos des Papes has been climatized in the past year, with the temperature now maintained at a constant 55oF; previously it ranged from as low as 44o in winter to as high as 68o in summer.

This domain '97 red Chateauneuf carries around 14% alcohol yet lacks power, points out Vincent Avril, echoing a sentiment I was to hear repeatedly during my time in the area. Like many of his neighbors, Avril was especially excited about the '98 vintage, which he described as a powerful year comparable to 1990. Yields were healthy, grape sugars were high, and the best wines appear to have excellent structure for aging. The wines here are traditionally made. The Avrils buy one new foudre (out of 28) every other year, and also purchase a few two-year-old barriques.

This domain '97 red Chateauneuf carries around 14% alcohol yet lacks power, points out Vincent Avril, echoing a sentiment I was to hear repeatedly during my time in the area. Like many of his neighbors, Avril was especially excited about the '98 vintage, which he described as a powerful year comparable to 1990. Yields were healthy, grape sugars were high, and the best wines appear to have excellent structure for aging. The wines here are traditionally made. The Avrils buy one new foudre (out of 28) every other year, and also purchase a few two-year-old barriques.