1997 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

The Avrils describe '98 as "un annee puissant" with more similarity to '95 than to '90 owing to sound acidity. Yes, the grenache was superb in '98, says Vincent Avril, but the key to the wine may well be the high quality and spicy character of the mourvedre. At 14.5%, there was not really surmaturite in '98, adds Avril, and that's why the pH is healthy. The Avrils were concerned that their '98 has been underrated by early tasters. "The Chateauneufs that are true blends really can't be tasted early, especially when there's a strong mourvedre component [20% here, along with 10% syrah and 5% counoise, muscardin and vaccarese]," Vincent told me. The entire winemaking facility at Clos des Papes has been climatized in the past year, with the temperature now maintained at a constant 55oF; previously it ranged from as low as 44o in winter to as high as 68o in summer.

This domain '97 red Chateauneuf carries around 14% alcohol yet lacks power, points out Vincent Avril, echoing a sentiment I was to hear repeatedly during my time in the area. Like many of his neighbors, Avril was especially excited about the '98 vintage, which he described as a powerful year comparable to 1990. Yields were healthy, grape sugars were high, and the best wines appear to have excellent structure for aging. The wines here are traditionally made. The Avrils buy one new foudre (out of 28) every other year, and also purchase a few two-year-old barriques.